Ajaccio – Aiacciu (pronounced – Ah-yax-cio)
Aiacciu is the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte (1769 – 1821). His home, Casa Bonaparte, is inevitably a museum, easily found in the back streets of the old town. There are three statues, the Grotte Austerlitz being the most imposing.
The first two nights of our stay in Ajaccio are described in more detail – here.
Other than the Cathedral and other churches, the Citadel, on the promontory, is the only other major historical feature in the town. This is occupied by the military, so access is not possible.
The waterfront in Ajaccio is given over mostly to transport. When the large cruisers dock, the population of Ajaccio swells by the thousands for a few hours, then relaxes towards tranquility in the evenings.
The beach areas within the town are limited, one has to go beyond if this is what one seeks. There are only a handful of Tavernas overlooking the marina. La Rade does an OK Breakfast for €7.50, A Vista has outstanding Linguine with Mussels (€16.00). The latter also has Samosas filled with Goats Cheese, the only sign of anything remotely connected with Indian Cuisine on Corsica. I found no dedicated Kebap Shop either. Ajaccio: no Curry, no Donner.
Arriving at Aeroport Ajaccio Napoleon Bonaparte, there is the choice of a taxi or the No.8 Bus. If one is travelling alone, then the €10.00 for the bus might be OK. Have one’s hotel arrange a taxi to collect you for €26.00. The Airport Bus is basically a rip-off, the same service bus that operates on all of the urban routes within Ajaccio, one suspects that one stop away from the Airport, the otherwise urban flat fair of €1.00 may well apply.
The No. 8 Bus terminates at the Train Station, the Bus Station is a few minutes further along the coast road. Steps lead up to the main thoroughfare from which the urban buses pass. Google Maps admit that they are not up to date with the local Bus Timetables.
The Ibis Budget Hotel was chosen to guarantee a noon check-in after a 09.30 arrival at Ajaccio Airport. Bus No. 4 goes to Budiccione. Alight at Point de Budiccione, the roundabout, and walk up the hundred odd metres to the Ibis. Buses are every hour or so, paper timetables available at Hotels and Tourist Information. Unfortunately, all Urban Buses stop @19.30. Bus stops suggested a Night Bus No. 2, alas not.
On a €17.00 taxi ride back to the Ibis, I asked the driver for a quote to take us to Bonifacio, €400 plus was off the top of his head. Take the bus or hire a car!
Conclusion
The powers that be are in cahoots to support the local taxis. Trying to get a taxi around midnight is nigh impossible without phoning, then waiting at whatever venue one occupies. They are so few, hailing one on the street would be quite an achievement.
In Ajaccio, stay near the Ferry Port, Train Station and Bus Station. Hotel le Dauphin is ideal.
The Micro-Brewery, Bars and Restaurants visited:
Microbrasserie Imperiale – 5 Rue Zevaco Maire, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica
Shamrock – 9 Rue Notre Dame, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica
A Vista – 4 Quai Napoléon, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica
La Rade – 1 Place Foch, 20000 Ajaccio