The background to this holiday is given in the drop-down information above: Corsica – Ajaccio.
Arriving yesterday morning, a Sunday, 09.30, at Aeroport Ajaccio Napoleon Bonaparte, Marg and Hector were in no hurry to get to the Ibis Budget. A noon check-in was guaranteed, earlier had been asked for. Google Maps had the next scheduled bus to Ajaccio town at 10.30 with a caveat. Google admitted to not being accurate. The airport information desk confirmed a No. 8 Bus at 10.00. It arrived punctually.
A couple in front of us got off the bus temporarily, muttering that the fare was €10.00, they had found €4.70 online. Already I had established that the only reliable information about Corsica travel arrangements is what one gathers on the ground. Hopefully, my writings will highlight the successes and pitfalls as our six days here develop.
Dropped at the train station, one might have expected other buses to pull in here. The main road was up a flight of stairs. Google Maps suggested Bus No.3 would take us most of the way to the Ibis Budget. The bus came on schedule according to the bus stop display. The flat fare of €1.00 was paid. Dropping us at Porto Giovonni, we walked the last part, ten minutes in the rising temperature. There’s no need to describe our appearance on arriving at the hotel.
I had asked for an even earlier check-in, an email on my phone suggested 11.00 would be possible, the chap on the desk wasn’t having it. Just before noon we were given the code to the room.
Armed with the timetable for the No. 4 Bus, which passed the hotel, we set off to discover Ajaccio. Cardo was the nearest stop, uphill from the Ibis. Marg was already walking down to the Pointe de Budiccione roundabout. A No. 4 Bus was parked at the bus stop. A sign on the roadside said – temporary terminus. Had we gone up to – Cardo – we would have missed the bus and been faced with the hour walk to town.
When the bus turned off what we knew to be the main street, we jumped off. Hello, Ajaccio.
The flowers on the edge of De Gaulle Square caught the eye. A passing Canadian couple took our first photo together of the trip. They were off a cruise ship and were looking for the statues of Napoleon. This was the first we encountered, Napoleon and his four brothers.
Having looked along the coastline, it was time for lunch. Breakfast at Gatwick felt so long in the past. We found a narrow lane with a line of restaurants. The plan was to snack now, dine later. The menu in each restaurant suggested they were not having this – The Full Monty – or nothing. Having toured the surrounding blocks it was back to the lane. Too late, at 15.00 they were no longer serving. Welcome to Ajaccio.
We headed to the marina, A Vista welcomed us in. Linguine and Mussels, how could Hector resist? Marg found – Samosa – on the Menu, albeit Goat’s Cheese Samosa. There are reportedly no – Indian Restaurants – on Corsica. This was just a wind up.
The Linguine with Mussels was outstanding. Fit enough to blog on Curry-Heute?
The MSC Seaview dominated the harbour. I looked it up, over five thousand passengers. That is a heck of a lot of people to invade a town. Some had stayed aboard, the zip-wire proving to be a greater attraction than Ajaccio.
Walking on, we found – Casa Bonaparte. The throng outside was off-putting, perhaps another day. The Citadel looked imposing, donkeys were tethered in the moat. Marg was in her element. There was no public access to – The Citadel.
Welcome to Ajaccio.
Bier O’clock
Sources had given up two Craft Beer venues in Ajaccio: Microbrasserie Imperiale reportedly not open until Wednesday, and Brasserie L’Alba, closed today. There was no choice but to pick one of the many cafes. Brasserie Du Port had two taps, both Pietra (Furiani) the Corsican Brewery. Doris asked if I wanted – small, large or really large – as she mimed a litre glass. I asked for – a large Ambree. 0.25l came. Ah well, just have to sip it then.
At 6.0% this was not too shabby, an Amber Ale. It was – Dry – with no nasty after-taste. If this is what I would be sentenced to drink in Corsica, then so be it. The price, however, was absurd.
In what was certainly the focal point of Ajaccio, we saw Statue #2 of Napoleon. One can never have enough statues of the Emperor. Soon we found ourselves outside – Casa Bonaparte – once again. They were closing, I sneaked a photo.
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Ah! What’s this? Microbrasserie Imperiale, and it was open!
The younger of the two chaps on duty showed me the Bier List. Four, but they only had two of these on, no IPA for Hector. The 5.0% Bionda was so much better than than the Pietra, and cheaper. Not much of this was going to touch the sides. Gold in colour, with a slight chill haze, this Blond was again suitably – Dry – and lacked the hops an IPA might have possessed.
I had to try the darker 6.0% Bionda. This lacked the bite despite having much more body. Hector had found his Ajaccio Bier.
Usually it’s Marg who fades first, tonight it was Hector’s turn. More Bier-Today would have been silly. Marg wanted to eat having – snacked – earlier. I ordered a taxi to take us home. There are no Urban Buses after 19.30. We were driven past the tavernas at the marina, how quiet, peaceful. Marg thought we would have headed back there. €15.00 and we were back at the Ibis, actually, the adjacent Buffalo Grill.
As – American – as a – Diner – can be, and a Menu featuring the food I try to avoid, it was better than nothing. Actually, there was a KFC here too, Marg likes ambience.
We ate, I wouldn’t even comment on the food, not my kind of place. Good night.
For some reason, we were late up today. Knowing how the No. 4 Bus operates, the strategy was to go into town, do what had to be done, and come back to the Ibis before getting one of the last buses back in. Logical.
The first port of call was the Tourist Information Office which was close to Brasserie L’Alba. L’Alba was more – Pukka Restaurant – than – Bierhaus, dismissed. I had to verify the existence of the morning bus to Bonifacio on Saturday morning. At first the chap attending was doubtful, to the point of suggesting we would have to go a day early. Having consulted the same website as I had on the still reliable Huawei, he confirmed the 08.30 Bus. But from where? This was crucial, the locus was marked on a map.
At what turned out to be the Bus Station, it was made clear that one can only buy tickets on the day of travel. At the Train Station, the story was the same. However, I did discover something that could have ruined tomorrow. The 11.00 train to Bastia in the on-line train timetable does not exist. In the new timetable, starting today, it has gone. The 08.46 it would have to be. Would Hotel Posta Vecchia in Bastia let us check-in early? I emailed them, the answer was – Non!
All this and no breakfast. Yesterday, I had spotted the sign at La Rade for – Le Petit Dejeuner. La Rade is one of the handful of tavernas at the marina. It was afternoon, they took us on. Coffee, Orange Juice, Croissant and Bread with Jam for €7.50. Decent. The Cafe au lait was quite simply wonderful, smooth, no bitterness and tasted of – Coffee. The best Coffee I have had in ages. Marg was impressed also. Meanwhile, people sat at adjacent tables drinking half litres of Pietra Ambree. Far too early.
The third, and best, of the three Napoleon statues was next on the agenda. Grotte Austerlitz – was indeed imposing. Hector was not the only person to turn his hat sideways to have his photo taken.
We took a lengthy stroll along the southern coast line of Ajaccio before heading back to the Ibis. This evening we knew what we were about.
It was straight to Brasserie Imperiale for more 5.0% Bionda. There were more customers this evening, again sitting outside. Just in case, I enquired after the IPA, next week, nay luck.
We were recognised by the Waiter at A Vista when we paid our second visit, he had worked at Gleneagles Hotel at some point in his past. I was having the Linguine and Mussels, again, it was that enjoyable. Marg enjoys a Salad, oh dear.
To accompany I had the Pietra Bionda (5.5%) which was frankly – awful. Once upon a time – Blond – was all the rage. Arran, Leffe, La Chouffe. I can still enjoy the latter, that’s about it, the palate has moved on. Chouffe Houblon is preferred. This Bionda was too sweet and had the after-taste I try to avoid. I resolved not to have this again.
Knowing La Rade had the Pietra Ambree on tap, we retired there to watch the world go by. The Sun may set on the west side of Corsica, Ajaccio mostly faces east.
We decided to go exploring again. I had passed an Irish Bar yesterday, sometimes they have Strongbow which could provide relief from the local Bier. I had a look into Shamrock, the Paulaner taps stood out. So did the €6.00 charge for a half litre, much less than everywhere else we have looked at in the last two days. Marg had Bailley’s and watched an athletics meet live from Eugene (Oregon, USA) where Hector and Dr. Stan were last year. Laura Muir, a Scot, came second in her event, Marg was happy. Hector was happy too except every time Mein Host passed us, he had a fag in his hand.
Last night we ordered a taxi by phone and had to wait fifteen minutes. Google Maps said there was a taxi office around the corner, there wasn’t. We headed towards the main street, hoping to hail a taxi. We did find a London cab, parked, privately owned. Not one taxi passed us, we were facing a long walk.
On Friday, we return to Ajaccio in order to be in position to take the bus to Bonifacio.
Hotel le Dauphin will be our domicile, 150m from the Train Station, even less to the Bus Station. I decided to present ourselves early, we need a base from which to order a taxi. The chap on reception did the job. Fifteen minutes we had to wait. There were six taxis on duty.
The Micro-brewery, Bars and Restaurants visited:
Microbrasserie Imperiale – 5 Rue Zevaco Maire, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica
A Vista – 4 Quai Napoléon, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica
Brasserie Du Port – 13 Boulevard du Roi Jerome, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica
Buffalo Grill – Rue des Magnolias Lieu-dit Strette La Rocade, 200090, Ajaccio, Corsica
La Rade – 1 Place Foch, 20000 Ajaccio
Shamrock – 9 Rue Notre Dame, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica