Day 23 – Friday, April 12th
New Zealand Airways were stingy on the flight down to Wellington. Tea/Coffee/Water, with packets of feeble nibbles to accompany. Not even a proper – nut. I should declare a need for eating nuts, and make it compulsory for all on every flight.
The train had been considered, but the overnight train was not running today, a waste of twelve hours anyway.
Arriving at Wellington was a breeze, what a terminal. The hanging Birds of Prey impressed, there will be time to study them before the next flight in three days.
Three days to see a capital city, not long, and with our list of – must see places – at two items, maybe a day too long? There are Brewery Taps, and maybe a brewery or two to track down.
Exiting from the bowels of the Airport, we quickly found the bus to the city centre. Lambton Quay, the main street runs parallel to Featherstone Street where the Ibis Wellington is located. Our last Ibis of the trip.
Pulling a bag, a bag on one’s back, an umbrella, fortunately we were at the Ibis sooner than expected. If that’s the size of a block, there will be no need for public transport around this city.
Fork & Brewer was the nearest Brewpub to our hotel. Marg was more interested in food, I promised her food, albeit bar-food. Peeking our from the brollie, I could take in the occasional older building alternating with the modern. Some classic architecture, juxtapositions aplenty. We know who to blame.
Fork & Brewer, on the first floor of the building, occupies a substantial space. With an island bar containing 42 taps, choices. The board suggested three Hazys. Working up the abv is always the plan. Little did I know we would only stay for one.
A Friday night, the place was busy. Marg chose the table, so I can blame her.
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Haze Jumper at 5.4% appeared to be classed as a NEIPA. Yellow, but only slightly hazy, was the name in jest? This was way too sharp, a high IBU was suspected. Think WCIPA and this would work.
The company to my left was mixed, but there was one loud female who could probably be heard back in Auckland. It wasn’t just the volume, it was the pitch. It was a case of drink up and leave. Marg was hungry.
Around the corner was a well rated Asian restaurant, we haven’t had that for a while, Curry tomorrow. So highly rated was – Asian Kitchen – it was full. Next place.
We did pass a Curry Cafe in the style I found in both Brisbane and Sydney. I talked the young girl through the Dishes in the kettles. She had to tell me the last one – Lamb Curry. No Goat here then.
On the bus we had passed a line of Chinese and similar restaurants. The Old Satay Noodle House was chosen.
Again, this was one floor up in what appeared to be quite an industrial setting. There was only a few diners in the large room.
One day Marg will not order Sweet & Sour.
Hector had Pork with Noodles.
What made this meal stand out from the previous Asian creations was the availability of Soya Sauce on the table. No, it’s not like like Hector adding Salt to his dinner as in the bad old days.
Still raining, still a Friday night, I didn’t feel like straying far in the darkness. Was the Brian stopping? The Malthouse was chosen.
Behold, a big room with the bar on the right as one enters, high tables opposite the bar, and a room full of Kiwis to the back. They too were loud, but nobody was resonating. On purchasaing the drinks, I assumed Marg had headed back there. Nope, there she was, front of the house.
Marg had Bier! Lindeman’s Kriek – if indeed that is not a soft drink. The distance this cherryade had travelled was reflected in the price.
802 #67 Unfiletered IPA (McLeod’s Brewery, New Zealand) at 6.8% was the aggressive follow-up to Fork & Brewer.
Untappd are calling Bier – NEIPA – the bars/brewers are not. Gold, with a muddy haze, there was no disictictive hop hit, yet Mosaic, Motueka and Amarillo were all here. OK Bier, nothing to become excited about, however, there was something afoot.
Nick at One Drop back in Sydney had told us that the Nelson Hops had been harvested. A brochure gave a list of all the Fresh Hop Bier available in Wellington. In effect, I had also just found a list of all the Craft Beer outlets in Wellington.
Three days.
I didn’t fancy any more Bier, and so back to the hotel. Get some writing done.
Brewery, bar and restaurant visited today:
Fork & Brewer – 20 Bond Street, Te Aro, Wellington 6011
The Malthouse – 76 Willis Street, Wellington Central, Wellington 6011
The Oaks Satay Noodle House – Oaks Complex 73 Cuba Street, Te Aro, Wellington 6011
Day 24 – Saturday, April 13th
Marg was out running along the harbour. Hector spent the late morning in his now claimed spot, a seat at the window with a power cable. Still the rain shows no sign of mercy, still the right foot hurts from a standing start, but maybe less so.
Curry for lunch! Indian Alley Wakefield stood out from the crowd. The Yorkshire reference had nothing to do with the menu, but was the street on which Indian Alley stood. Our walk there was interspersed with stopoffs at sport/outdoor clothing shops. Hector is always on the lookout for quick-dry shorts and trousers – with zipped pockets. Like many a city, Wellington had none.
Indian Alley was closed. It opens midweek for the lunchtime session, but not on a Saturday. Eh?
We now needed something to tide us over until after the 17.00 opening. It had to be near.
Squirrel was a couple of blocks away, and in the right direction for Te Papa, the museum in which we planned to take refuge this afternoon.
Bottomless Coffee – it said on the menu my type of coffee. Doris made a fresh batch, she said I wasn’t leaving until I finished it. The place was empty, more or less, when we arrived. By the time we departed, every table was occupied, even the locals had had enough of the rain.
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Chicken in focaccia – was Hector’s snack. Not that interesting as it happened. A Salad for Marg.
We had been strongly advised to visit Te Papa. Marg and Hector are not big on museums, this turned out to be a museum with – BIG – exhibits. Free to enter, even better.
There are two permanent features: Natural History and the Gallipoli exhibit. The Natural History featured many an interesting animal especially birds past and present.
The huge, flightless Moa is no more, just as well. Michael Parkinson had it easy with Emu. We were encouraged to touch the bone. Ooh, err. But not stand in the footprint.
Earthquakes and Volcanoes, what else do I need to know about these having taught all about them for thirty four years? There was a hut that simulated an earthquake. Having experienced a few in real life, no thanks. Who remembers the Glasgow Earthquake of 1979? OK, it was minor. Turkey was once hit by a major one the day after Marg and Hector left.
We don’t need earthquakes whilst we are in New Zealand.
Something old – what New Zealand truly lacks. The oldest things on display were rocks. Cheating perhaps, but other exhibits put what became New Zealand’s history in perspective, writes the retired Geographer.
Every sign in New Zealand is in English and Maori, respect for those who got here first. But by how long? Aborigines reached what became Australia thousands of years back. The Maori arrived here in the last millennium, the Europeans, a handful of centuries after. Both newcomers then. More importantly, when did – The Weegies – arrive?
The Gallipoli exhibit was excellent in terms of its presentation. The pointlessness of the entire campaign was well reported.
A WW2 battle fought with WW1 tactics. Churchill. I had seen nothing like the larger than life characters on display. The detail is magnificent. Toy soldiers these were not. It wasn’t toy soldiers who had to face the Turkish machine guns. Who gave the Turks machine guns?
Bier o’clock, and we weren’t straying far.
Panhead Custom Ales, whos Rat Rod had been enjoyed nights back at The Malt (Auckland), have an outlet on Tory Street. Having given this street a miss earlier it was time to embrace it.
Sandman at 5.2%, a yellow NEIPA, lacking the full haze, had the always hoped for – blast of hoppiness. For this abv, the body was fine, but imagine this at say 7.5%, and… Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe hops were present, another fine Bier from Panhead.
I had hoped that this was the brewery, but that’s in Upper Hutt a good bit outside Wellington, and as close to Kelly Ryan’s – Bone Face Brewing Company – as Manchester’s Track is to Cloudwater. Three days.
It was time for Curry, at last. Indian Alley, tasty food better than Mainstream, the Hector had chosen well. This is where the day took a weird turn.
Hector shouldn’t be here – was a voice from behind. Gordon, who drinks in my Glasgow local. I knew he was coming to New Zealand but our dates and places were never meant to overlap. What were the chances?
Gordon gave a couple of Bier House recommendations. Golding’s Dive Bar was meant to have Hazys according to Untappd, their board suggested otherwise. It was stowed, no point hanging around.
Being now off-piste, we stumbled upon Fortune Favours Beer, a brewpub! The young barman was keen, polite but did not convey great knowledge of the Bier on offer.
This was a bit of a dive, but was clearly popular given the number present, most upstairs seemingly.
The Mystic at 5.0%, a Hazy NZ IPA had a slight haze and lacked body. Flavour was lacking too, and there was a slight sweetness. Was this a waste of the precious Nelson Sauvin?
Rogue & Vagabond was Gordon’s other suggestion. A band had just set up, music was imminent. The barmaid told us if we had arrived fifteen minutes later there would have been an entry charge. We found a settee outwith the direct blast of what was to come.
Motueka Fresh Hop (Urbanaut, Auckland, New Zealand) at 6.0% was a disappointment. Another Fresh Hop not necessarily delivering. Federweisser, the early spring wine served in Deutschland was coming to mind. This lacks the body and flavour of fully fledged wine. Is Fresh Hop a rushed job? Time will tell. I should be getting a card stamped.
Where was the haze? There was a hint of – the Polish aftertaste. This Bier needed so much more, its successor is a different story.
Tropical Cyclone (McLeod’s Brewery, Waipu, New Zealand) at 8.0% was a winner. My second experience of MacLeod’s. Yellow with a sligt haze, this was a worthy DIPA. Flavour-wise, it was East meets West, beautifully mellow yet with pronounced hops flavours. US and NZ hops is all I could establish, but IBU-100, how? This tasted nothing like a high IBU IPA. This Bier I would have again, I did. A Saturday night, even Marg was on the strong stuff.
The band came on, not too loud, some good sounds. The female vocalist and the horn player stood out. From our lack of vantage, it took time to establish just how many females were on stage. Our first live music in New Zealand, no idea who they were. It was a good night.
Brewery, bars, restaurant and cafe visited today:
Fortune Favours Beer – 7 Leeds Street, Te Aro, Wellington 6011
Pan Head Tory Street – 1 Tory Street, Te Aro, Wellington 6011
Rogue & Vagabond – 8 Garrett Street, Te Aro, Wellington 6011
Indian Alley Wakefield Restaurant and Bar – 3/290 Wakefield Street, Te Aro, Wellington 6011
Squirrel NZ – 4 Blair Street, Te Aro, Wellington 6011
Day 25 – Sunday, April 14th
The sun was shining, it puts a different perspective on the day. Part of our Ibis welcome was a pair of Kit-Kats. I took one downstairs with me to what I had claimed as my spot: a window armchair with power sockets behind. More writing whilst Marg went out exploring/exercising. This may well be the first Nestlé product I have knowingly consumed in some forty years. The company is on my Blacklist. How old was the Kit-Kat? Maybe from the same batch I last ate from. It would soon have its revenge.
Today, the Wellington Cable Car, except it’s a funicular, less stressful. Having looked at the map to find the lower end, I led Marg to where I thought it would be. I should have read the address, not just looked at where the station is. It added to the steps, and the right foot, although far from mended, is causing less pain from a standing start.
Back on Lambton Quay, into an arcade – Cable Car Lane – behold, the funicular. NZ$11.00 return, no senior discount. After – The Blue Mountains, it looked a bit tame, and short. Ah, some cosmic lighting effects in the tunnels. It’s for the children.
Kelburn was at the top, an opperchancity to survey the vista, have brunch, and visit the museum.
Another museum? Like Te Papa, free, my kind of museum.
Cable Top Eatery, it does what it says on the tin.
Portobello Creamed Mushroom Risotto, how could I not? Marg had her Salad.
Marg eats all these salads. They are rubbish compared to her now legendary, thanks to Lockdown and a certain social medium, nutty creations. The Risotto appeared modest but was filling beyond expectation. Some crossed the table, some was abandoned.
Marg disappeared into the adjacent shop of smells. One tickled her fancy.
The Cable Car Museum related the story of the construction and upgrade of the means of locomotion.
Some take the funicular up then walk down through the gardens. Having bought the return, no way, Pedro. We did the top of the park, more photos and suddenly the Kit-Kat was seeking payback. Wonderfully clean public facilities, just like what we don’t have back home.
With the Ibis seconds from Cable Car Lane, there was a quick change. The umbrella was abandoned, the Dunedin jacket collected. This could be us out for the night, it was still early afternoon.
The walk along he pier was nothing special, Marg had been running here, it’s flat. Peeps had told us Wellington is hilly, they haven’t been to Lisboa. Te Papa came into view once more. Knowing the lie of the land, the Hector excused himself once more. Then it was time for photos of the – Wellington – sign.
Mount Victoria – was on the list of places of interest. Note I have not added this to my list. OK, traditional New Zealand wooden houses, I then realised we had come this way on the Airport Bus. So much for that. Time for Coffee & Cake, and with it nearing mid Sunday afternoon, choices were restricted.
Le Ciel saw us back into the heart of the city, near Tory Street once again. Marg was unaware. Feeling somewhat empty, a slab of creamy nutty cake was ordered, and no, I’m wasn’t for sharing.
Mean Doses Taproom, nothing there to excite, ah Holland Street. Dalmuir also, this is how it is.
With Panhead so close, time to enjoy again the pleasures this Brewery has provided. 
Both my Hazys were aff. Hector wasn’t for staying. That did not go down well. The initial choice of seat was too close to the open door. The second was right under a heater. The third involved having to ask a chap if we could join him. I wonder what he thought when we left moments later.
Fork & Brewer, visit #2, the place was quiet.
Another Forking Hazy at 6.5%, no holding back today. A NEIPA-not, this was yellow worth a partial haze. No hops were disclosed but Citra was assumed. The IBU tasted high, this was a West Coast IPA.
I cannot say that I have not liked some of what I have encountered, it’s just the hope of finding that – special Bier – and not doing so, that frustrates. There was a bar near the hotel, as in the next block, which had a potential Hazy. This was across the street from Leuven Belgian Beer Cafe, ending the night on something familiar, European, a plan.
Google had The Featherston closing soon. Time for a quiche. The plan soon changed. Not only did I find what I’ve been looking for, the bar was not closing until much later.
Having studied the array, the choice was Occasional (?) (Martinborough Brewery, South Wairapapa, Wellington, New Zealand), an APA, the pump clip gave away no more.
The colour, it was fine: the full milkshake haze, and a yellow one at that, not the muddy gold which seems to prevail in these parts. Bloody hell! This was it, but what exactly was – it? I went up to the bar to enquire, the brewery website was giving nowt away nothing. One can only find a Bier on Untapped if you know what it is. The barmaid pointed to the board.
Juice Experiment #5, finally, – the information: a 6.5% NEIPA featuring Strata, Nelson Sauvin and Simcoe hops. Here was a veritable NEIPA, it looked like a NEIPA, tasted like a NEIPA. If it had Track or Verdant on the pump-clip, there would dispatches. I believe there were.
A second was ordered from a waitress whilst Marg was up ordering food. I was on my third when Marg had her food thinking this was still my second. So it goes.
I only found the wonder that is Future Brewing at the end of the Sydney leg of this sojourn, is this how it’s going to be?
I don’t think I was last out of Featherston, but would willingly have been so. Leuven had the tried and tested, so bog standard Belgian fayre. A Blond was not going to follow the owner which had just preceded it. Back to Sandman (Panhead), tried and tested. A come-down, back to reality, but this brewery was the favourite until ninety minutes previous. Marg had Lindemaan’s Kriek, again. Can the funds support such extravagances?
Sunday night, Marg phoned sister Marion is is the norm, except of course it was nowhere near night back in Blighty. I went up to examine the fridges. The last Bier in Wellington, was there anything remotely – Lambic?
Lambic? They’d never heard of it. Maybe just as well, let’s imagine the price. Howard would have bought it, regardless. Hi, Howard!
With a not too early rise in the morning, and in the hope of an uninterrupted night’s sleep, I took the netbook down to my spot.
Our third Ibis, and so far I had only used one of six drinks vouchers, time to rectify.
An Ibis with a choice from Panhead, and one I still hadn’t had. Rolling Stone – Nayslayer at 6.5%, a Pacific IPA, whatever that is. A NZ-IPA with Nectaron, Eclipse, Nelson Sauvin, the taste was more West Coast despite the gold, muddy haze. This was a good Bier.
This was definitely – a good night.
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Brewery, bars and cafes visited today:
Fork & Brewer – 20 Bond Street, Te Aro, Wellington 6011
The Featherston – Featherston Street, Wellington Central, Wellington 6011
Leuven Belgium Beer Cafe – 135-137 Featherston Street, Wellington Central, Wellington 6011
Ibis Wellington – 153 Featherston Street, Wellington Central, Wellington 6011
Cable Top Eatery – 1 Upland Road, Kelburn, Wellington 6012
Back to : Wellington Homepage
Back to : Auckland Days 18 – 22
Continue to : Nelson Days 26 -28
Qantas Flight QF3, departing from 
Big chunks, bigger, and regular in shape, had been cooked in Ras El Hanout, Moroccan Spice. Thereafter the pieces were rolled in Dukkah Herb Mix. Dukkah, I had never heard of it, a wonderful blend that will make an appearance in Blighty, one day.
The calendar. Every year, Hector makes a calendar of Marg and Hector’s trips. On has been posted to 
Everyone was up earlier than Hector, it had ben a late night. Self respect remained in place after securing the draw. Marg was in the pool, as one would predict. How cold was the water? No idea, didn’t even test it.
Paddling, aye right.
Rangitoto Island would be visible throughout the drive. A volcano, not expected to erupt again. However, Hector is in town. History suggests that if it will erupt again, April 29 will be the day.
SIM Cards, we had been in New Zealand for twenty four hours and were still dependent on Wi-Fi. Alison took us to the Westfield shopping centre, there the chap at One.NZ had two SIMs working in our respective phones in minutes. That should do us.
On arrival in the car park beneath the tower, we took the elevator up to the ground-floor then the escalator back down to the basement. From there, a dedicated elevator took us to the viewing level. On the ground floor, another dedicated elevator took us up to Orbit 360º Dining, a revolving restaurant on Level 52. There was an apron around the windows such that sitting there was not an issue, no acrophobia. 
In the dusk then darkness, the ever-changing view of Auckland created as sense of familiarity. I could just about work out which direction was Greenhithe. I couldn’t see any breweries from up here. 
Is the kitchen closed? – was raised at one point. No, it has just gone away. Oh, now is a good time to visit the facilities. The seating area rotated around the central hub. A new experience, and I hate to think what our entire night out costs. Thanks, Alison. 
Today was a big day for Hector and Marg in 
We set out, with Alison at the wheel once again, for our 14.00 Curry rendezvous at 
It is twenty three years since we last saw Charlie. Had he changed? Dramatically! If the restaurant hadn’t been empty, we may well have done the double take. Hector and Marg have not changed at all.
Once Charlie had consumed his legal quota, it was time for him to head. Amazing to meet up again after all this time. I must mention that I did take him to 
We arrived back at 
There was Bier, Darryn ordered food. Hector continued with 
Fear and Loathing in Mt Eden
This afternoon, a trip to 
Rat Rod (Panhead Custom Ales, Upper Hutt, New Zealand) a 6.5% NEIPA turned out to be pretty decent. Amarillo, Ekuanot Mosaic and Simcoe hops were present. This was a candidate for Best Bier had in NZ to date. Not that there have been many.
Louise arrived a few minutes after 19.30, twenty eight years since we last met, some people do not change. It was as if another – Fridge Night – had just resumed.
Alison had to listen to conversations about people she had never met. Again, this reinforced how right it was last night with Charlie and Darryn to meet separately. Amazing how the time flies, The Malt was empty by 21.00, signs of closing despite the advertised opening times. Do any New Zealanders stay up after 22.00?
Today we moved south to Pukekohe in the south of 
There was a brunch stop afore, back to the Willow Cafe. Having enjoyed Alison’s fried eggs on toast so much yesterday, I risked a repetition. Poached but dry, not the end of the World.
We were to meet Simon at his place of employment, Pukekohe Hill School. A mere five minutes in a school and Hector found himself in the Headmaster’s study. Those who recognise the memorabilia on display will recognise the significance Unbelievably, Simon told us of Kevin, the son of another long term colleague, who is also in Pukekohe as the coach of the local football club. Poor Kevin was in an A’ Level class of two with Lindsey, the most talented pupil the Hector ever taught. We both learned a lot that year.
En route, Simon pointed out the racecourse, soon not to be. The motor racing section has already been abandoned. Simon showed us his vintage VW Beetle, his pride and joy, also a restored caravan. He was busy through Lockdown.
Roast New Zealand Lamb, cooked with inserted Garlic and Thyme as the Hector was taught also. Again, minimal photography, one cannot, truly. Broccoli and potatoes featured, along with onions, major crops in this part of 
All were from 
Something Hazy at 5.9%, a Hazy IPA with the full on milkshake haze, but a darker gold. This time: Citra, Mosaic, El Dorado and Galaxy hops were in the mix. Three CANs, there was nothing markedly different between either. Maybe the first was closer to yesterday’s 
Early to bed, people have work in the morning. This appears to be the 
Simon and Andrea went off to work, early. Theirs was a half day before the start of the holidays. What’s a holiday? We were left with Simon’s car. There was a suggestion that we drive to the west coast before meeting up with Simon who would take us to the airport for our 15.00 flight.
The Qantas flight from 
The sun was shining, the temperature mid 20s but Hector was still in shoes, the right foot. The Bridge and Opera House could wait for tomorrow. We headed down to Darling Harbour. A Big Blue Sky welcome, this felt like the place to be, thanks to Ryno for picking this Ibis from the three I proposed.
They just happened to be here on their own yacht, I suppose I would be telling everyone too.
The main city streets were congested, with people on foot. Always on the look out for something – old – The Victoria Building – looked to be a fine piece of architecture. 
The covered market contains a – Paddy’s Market. Chinatown as such is minimal and lies across the street. The foremost Hunan restaurant in the area was closed, Easter Monday. There was a fallback –
This was 
Ryno had mentioned The Bavarian, a chain of bars serving Deutsche-Bier in which he had spent his formative years. This was tracked down, or up, in a mini-mall. Closed, Easter Monday. 
Darling Harbour by night, we had to see it. And so we strolled up the east side back towards our hotel. 
Marg had already captured photos of a famous bridge by the time Hector rose from slumber #2. This was not Hector’s #1 priority for the day, Curry at 
In for a penny, on seeing the ridiculous white chocolate cake, it had to be. To share, still the most expensive individual cake the Hector has ever purchased. One labours the point such that these moments are recorded for evermore.
It was finally safe to begin the day’s trek, no more rain forecast. Marg pointed out the open air cinema where people were expected to lie on double beds. Maybe in the height of summer. 
OK, 
Circular Quay is rectangular, still, this is the focal point of tourism, Bridge to the west, Opera House to the right, as one looks out to sea. The giant liner would depart, and soon be replaced by another. One wonders where they go?
The skyline looking landwards towards Circular Quay is dramatic, more photos required. 
At the head of the quay was a name the Hector recognised: 
Having walked out of the 
Hoppy Daze, a Hazy Pale Ale, at 5.6% was asked for, Hop Thief, an APA, at 5.8% was poured. Who wasn’t paying attention? On another day I would have taken the wrong Bier, not the end of the World. Sod it, I’m having what I want!
On passing a mock-up of an opal mine, I had to stop. Father brought an opal back from 
The rain was back. Is this how this trip is going to unfold? Hotel Sweeney’s was the next venue.
The ground floor at Sweeney’s is a Sports Bar. The first floor has a restaurant, the second a pool table and seating. It is quite a climb to the roof. Marg was leading the way, twice she stopped. Can you see the sky yet?
Dwarfed by surrounding buildings, the view was somewhat restricted, but we witnessed the sunset. Marg took seats at the end of a high table. There was cover, just. Hopefully the adjacent chaps would not set fire to anything that comes in small packets. Nicotine has been distinctly absent on this trip, to date.
The girls behind the bar were pouring Bier with great enthusiasm. It was the chap who highlighted the style the Hector sought. In the end, two from White Bay Beer Co., Rozelle, were the choices. Rozelle is a western suburb of 
Ta Da at 6.9% is a classic Hazy IPA / NEIPA with a full haze. Mosaic, Strata and Nelson Sauvin hops featured. With the required tropical juiciness, this is what we want.
On Middle Earth, another NEIPA at 6.2% had a slight tartness after Ta Da. Nectaron, Superdilic and Nelson Sauvin hops provided the pedigree. With the full haze, this was a decent Bier regardless.
Having done 
At the Tourist Information, the queue was but a handful when we joined it, a mile long when we had finished. Why was my new Australian phone number not being recognised? Spam callers are finding me no problem.
Rossini At The Quay – the menu looked OK. Marg had her usual yoghurt and granola. Hector ordered – pork sausages with eggs. Poached eggs arrived. Hector never orders poached eggs. They were dry, not the dripping wet poached eggs served to me in the formative years. My first poached egg since York, at Betty’s. That was on top of Kedgeree, yum.
Manly, Ferry #1, tap on with the credit card, tap off, simples. Why are cities still using Oyster equivalents?
Oh, it’s 
There was the occasional reminder of what might have been: 
Manly Wharf, to the left or to the right? 
With buildings to the right, Hector led Marg to the left. A coastline walk as it turned out cutting through a restaurant. But not before Marg insisted on a – selfie. Hector subsequently produced a tripod. Compare, contrast.
In the year 2000, Hector put a toe in the Pacific at Venice Beach, Los Angeles. Today, a finger in the South Pacific. Cold water, Bali-hai!
A long sandy beach, reminiscent of 
We had passed New Brighton Hotel, Taproom caught the eye. No Bier of interest, maybe just as well. The grand colonial style building had peeps on terraces above us. 
What a place. Larger than many a micro, there was ample seating area. The promised NEIPA was available.
The step count was enhanced as we headed to 
Featuring Citra, Galaxy, and Mosaic hops, this was truly enjoyable Bier, why was I leaving? Our stay was extended when one of the two chaps came over to check on our enjoyment. Brenton, the Brewer, accepted a Bier-Traveller – Calling Card – well it is in tiny writing on the back of the Curry-Heute – Calling Card. 
Bier aside, this turned into a memorable visit. Brenton, the Brewer, spent a considerable time with us, talking – Bier. This is when Marg’s encyclopaedic knowledge of all the Breweries in all the World pays dividends. Marg can talk, at length about
Leaving was a case of tearing oneself away, The McVittie Arms could well have been declared. Brookvale, we were in the sticks and yet we had only scratched the surface We headed up the hill to catch the bus back to Manly Wharf. B1, the direct bus running from Mona Vale to Wynyard passed us, no need for the ferry then. For once it’s quicker by the frequent boat. 
As the sun set we passed 
Back on dry land it was time for dinner. Harts Pub had been recommended, it was a few minutes walk from Circular Quay and uphill. 
The Bier was a Hazy Pale Ale at 5.0% from Six String Brewing, Erina, NSW. 
Our Ibis wasn’t good enough we had to be collected from Sofitel at Wynyard at 08.10. The Hector had checked last night with their reception that this was the spot. Two other parties arrived as we stood in the shelter. Rain, ominous. Maybe there was shelter across the street.
Featherdale Sydney, home to the largest collection of Australian animals in the World. This was a – Brucie Bonus – for Marg who has to stop and address every animal she encounters. At Featherdale, all was well. A bit damp, but all the animals were happy to see us. Especially the Koalas whose network had no doubt advised them of our arrival: look extra cute.
I am coming to realise that Dingoes always look smug, as if they know something we can only speculate about. Maybe Meryl knows too.
The highlight for Hector. 
One engaged with Marg, others were too busy eating, but the colours made them proud. 
Temperate Rainforest, after today there was no doubt as to how this natural vegetation acquired its name. 
Fifty minutes is the given time, we did it in little over thirty, with stops for photos. 
The Skyway controller said – it’s always like this – as we returned to base. The cafes at Scenic World were closing, everyone back on the bus.
The chap sitting in front of us on the bus had left something in a shop in Leura. On our unplanned return to Leura, it was closed.
The fleece was dumped, warmer clothes. At last (?) the 
Back at Vapiano, our chap was nowhere to be seen. The rush had passed, no problem getting a table. Order by QR code, pay in advance. Gratuity, for what? We haven’t been served yet.
A Carbonara variant for Marg, Polpette for Hector. I like my meatballs to have meat in them. I suspect Chef was taking liberties with the ratio of breadcrumbs to meat. I stopped eating because I was bored with this pasta dish as much as I was full already. The cheesy bread to start was maybe excessive.
Top Down, a 6.5% DDH NEIPA was just the Bier Hector sought. The full on haze was comfortably familiar. Smooth in the palate, dangerously easy to drink. What a fine array of hops: Riwaka, Citra Cryo, YQH 1320 (Yakima) and they were coming across well. 
All things Bier were discussed, another opperchancity for Marg to display here empirical knowledge of the best locations in Europe. Nick stood Hector a Bier and Marg a soft drink, yay!
Supersaturated
Blue skies! Rain, what rain? All was well with the World except Hector’s right foot. As soon as I stop walking it seizes, even at traffic lights. After a few minutes I could walk for 
By the time we were over the water, the acrophobia meter had swung far right. Those who know, understand, otherwise it can only be described as a paralysis coupled with terror. What I cannot source is – transferred acrophobia. If Marg goes close to the edge, the scenario is exactly the same. Even holding her phone over the rail to take photos triggers the feeling. 
How to cope:
At the mid-point, a passing couple decided our photo was being took. That was as close as I let Marg be through the entire crossing. Only one of 
Milsons Point, the far side, all was well again. Bunkers required. There was a Curry House nearby, but a return to 
Kirribilli Woodfire Kitchen has a good rating and was right in front of us. Here Sparkling Water was on the house. A la 
Ferry 4 (of 9), took us to Circular Quay which was nearer our chosen destination than the train would have taken us. A calm crossing, and I foresee no more boats on this sojourn.
In her morning runs, Marg had been to the Opera House and established that it is in fact more than one building. This was Hector’s first time in close proximity. 
Flower arches were spread around the park, weddings. Were these for today, or abandoned from yesterday? The Calyx appeared to be the focal point of the park, a floral display.
Closed for a private function. Ah well, next time in 
The only NEIPA available was
The 6.5% NEIPA – 
A pity the t-shirts were naff. But usually they are. Why have breweries not caught up with the Germans, embroidery, not transfers please. Hector was in a good place after two eight per-centers. 
There was an elaborate fireworks display to the south. Not for us, surely? Is this how Aussies bid farewell?
We still needed food, Georges Mediterranean Bar & Grill, a Greek restaurant for a change.
Qantas flight 52, an Airbus 300, not as comfortable as the Airbus 800 which brought us to 
The coming Friday and Sunday could be a washout in another use of the term. Something to do with paying staff overtime – was the explanation. We shall see, we can’t go hungry. A day or two of – Temperance – may be in keeping with the motto printed on Hector’s polo shirts.
After a few hours sleep we emerged into the downpour. Downtown 
Marg had a highly rated coffee shop looked out. Sugar ‘N Spice Cafe had worthy coffee, but was way too small to relax in. 
The array of clocks on the wall felt fitting. We moved on. Next choice of venue had no wi-fi, move on. 
Brew Cafe & Wine Bar was just what we needed. Located in a lane just off Queen St., another miracle piece of navigation. 
Sleep remains sporadic in the same way that the continuing downpour does not. Once again there was an interrupted sleep meaning three more small hours were devoted to these writings. Marg went out for her morning constitutional run/jog and returned slightly late for her train to her planned activity this afternoon.
This brewery was brought to my attention in Manchester earlier this year when visiting Track Brewery. The chap who served me at 
Sat at the corner table facing the bar, 
Ginger Beer, I brewed this in my youth, the only brew of mine I considered to be drinkable.
The Hector was last out.
Surely there was somewhere open later and near the hotel? Frog’s Hollow Saloon was on the street parallel to ours, and seemingly for 
A CAN of Boozy Fruit (Big Shed Brewing, Royal Park, South Australia) a NEIPA at 6.2% was better than anything on draft. With lactose declared, this full on milkshake took a moment to adjust to. Galaxy, Wai-Iti, Ekuanot and Mosaic hops featured, quite an array. 
The sleep pattern continues, awake in the middle of the night, a couple of hours of blogging, then back to bed for a deeper sleep. Meanwhile, Marg is out for her exercise ritual, and returns with news of something different: the rain has stopped, sandals and shorts restored.
And so we headed towards the southeastern tip of the peninsula and Brisbane City Botanic Gardens. 
Lunch was calling, the first venues were dismissed, too posh for this time of day. Marg already had an encounter at an outdoor cafe at the Queensland Performing Arts Centre where a woman gave her the dirtiest of looks for daring to choose a particular table. 
Too early for Bier, but when might the opperchancity present itself again? I studied the taps, nothing of interest. A mature chap was cleaning a line, all the wee girlie staff were surrounding him with glee. I felt in the way being a potential customer. Marg fetched the Wi-Fi code, a chit was provided. Hector studied the food menu, the usual Aussie/American fayre which turns the stomach at the very thought of it. 
Trivia – was underway. A question on Scottish Whiskey nearly had the Hector giving some advice to the Quiz-master. 
Today we were due to meet up with Ryno, Beverly and family at 
ANZAC Square certainly impressed. 
The 1865 built – Servants Home – now – School of Arts – was the oldest building found on our wanderings.
Bus 199 took us the couple of stops to the top of the bank leading down to the food, drink, entertainment complex on the riverside adjacent to Howard Smith Wharves. Next to the Pirate Ship – was the clue given to locate les autres, who were well punctual. I have never walked into a brewery and had to ask – where is the Pirate Ship? When not there, chasing the odd Ibis around the grassy areas proved to entertain some weans also.
So as not to confuse payment later, I used the QR code to order for Marg and myself. The P-Hs had the service of a chap who was determined to enforce the letter of the law. He was nothing but a nuisance. Even having ordered burgers for the girls, he was persistent. There was food on the table, let it go. Pizza was ordered before his shift ended at 16.00, the girl who replaced him was way more relaxed. Anyway, by retaining the last slice of pizza, who knows who had eaten in the last hour, or hadn’t? An absurd regulation, and only invoked in Queensland.
Drinks were finished, back t’Bus Stop.
This was the day Marg was most looking forward to in, 
Then there were the Kangaroos. Smaller than I expected, and tame. Feeding the ‘roos was the order of the day. And getting photos of and with. Fun, even for this old cynic.
Is it possible to see the much maligned Dingo and not think of Merly Streep?
There were two shows to take in before the important 11.30 event. A sheepdog doing its job was nothing not seen before. Birds of Prey turned out to be two owls plus something else. Owls, not that interesting and try photographing birds on the wing without an SLR.
Reptiles and a frog, not the ones introduced by Bart Simpson, were captured, then finally, Marg’s was on.
Marg suggested coffee thereafter. Belleza was located in the basement of yet another 
We walked down the CBD peninsula and crossed the Goodwill Bridge once more. This time, the Hector stopped to add it to Google Maps. Surely, the powers that be should be on the case of three missing bridges.
Market stalls had been set up along the main thoroughfare. With numerous cafes and bars long the South Bank, this proved to be a hive of activity. This is where the people were.
Sunset Haze (Revel Brewing Co., Australia) at 6.5% , a Hazy IPA/ NEIPA was poured, carefully. Only by using the acquired skill was the full haze attained. Tropical, juicy, there was no distinctive hop blast. Strata, El Dorado and Ella were the hops which had not been added in sufficient quantity.
Even Marg thought we overdid the creation we ordered. Ice Cream, fruit, crunchy stuff and a side of melted chocolate… mmm.… as The Good Doctor might say. 
We left the South Bank and its illuminations and headed to Fish Lane and Saccharomyces, closed. 
Bling (Bridge Rd. Brewers, Australia), a 5.0% IPA had the West Coast bitterness. Gold, with a slight haze, the palate adjusted to the powerful hoppy flavours: Vic Secret, Enigma, Galaxy, Citra, Simcoe. Quite a collection, and Marg left me to have another. 
All this time time in 
Let me introduce the reader to the plastic cutlery set provided by Beverley. No more wood, and somewhere to house my metal, telescopic straw.
Holland Street was outside Northgate Station, home from home. Melton Road is adjacent to Chez Ryno, oh to have a microbrewery that close to home. Marg and Hector were the first customers of the day as we entered 
Seltzer, I have seen it on many a menu, but what is it? Marg was brave and took the plunge. 
Marg plus one headed for the house with the – Tinnies – which Ryno had just purchased plus the 
Fick 
Fusion Celebration DIPA
Barbie, Marg had watched the movie on the flight here. She was not impressed, I shall await the sequel about Barbie’s uncle Klaus. Ryno, he told me, is a celebrated BBQ Chef. The Spicy sausages impressed, but not as much as the – Lamb Cutlets. I have never had Lamb at a BBQ before today. Chops, with the thin section of Meat removed, stunning. 
With the sun down and no sign of the weans settling, it was time to head back to the city. Still Easter Sunday, still the Embassy Hotel was closed. Definitely gone. We had located Death and Taxes on Friday, tonight it was open. A classy joint, the gantry was reminiscent of The Pot Still (Glasgow) but with an array beyond Scotch. 
All the bar stools were taken, a strange sight. Marg reckoned it was so that customers could watch the cocktail mixing show. 
The range of tap Bier was naff. The chap at 
The intention was to circumnavigate the planet back in 2021 in the aftermath of Marg’s retirement. Today marks four years since Boris declared all schools should close, it is also the Equinox.
The 15.30 BA flight from Glasgow arrived at Heathrow on time having treated us to views of central London on the approach. The transfer to Terminal 3 by bus was much easier than the shuttle alternative. Terminal 3 has improved greatly since 2016 when last here. Then the facilities, even the seating areas were overrun, a well known coffee chain offered refuge until the 19.50 Qantas flight to 
From the pool, the Sim Lim Square shopping mall was visible a block away. Two SIM cards were soon installed courtesy of Vision 11. 
Outside the Sim Lim mall is a parade of eateries each selling their take on Asian, non-Indian food. First we needed cash, just in case, S$100 (£60.00) was withdrawn, we can spend it on the last day if we still have it. How could the Hector resist – Wing Seong Fatty’s Restaurant? Marg ordered Sweet & Sour Pork, standard, the Hector Duck with noodles, medium. Oh, and a big bottle of Tiger Lager.
Nordic India Pale Ale (Nordic Vibes, Kiruna, Sverige) at 4.5% claimed to be – Hoppy Citrus – and a NEIPA. It was neither. Mosaic hops featured but as this was clearly a West Coast IPA in both colour and bitter taste, I would love to establish the IBU to prove my point.
Air-con, it’s noisy, but necessary. Awake at 05.00, it was time to seize the day. In reality it was still three hours before UK bedtime. An opperchancity to get writing. Bier-Traveller is never as up to date as Curry-Heute, or anywhere near as comprehensive. With many hours to be spent on ‘planes, I may actually post in batches, time will tell. If I post daily it all goes backwards anyway.
Crossing over Bukit Timah Road took us to 
Having checked out the other side of the main road it was time for Curry. 
After a bizarre eating experience we walked back to Rochor MRT station. The blue – Downtown – line took us, well – Downtown. What a line, it runs from Expo, the airport to the centre of the city and loops back on itself. Each station on each MRT line has a name and a number, this facilitates counting the stops and must help those who have limited ability in reading of our script.
No eating, drinking, smoking, don’t set yourself alight, and no – durian! 
We soon found ourselves at the waterfront. Walking around the bay/marina seemed logical. Gardens by the Bay – was the only 
Marina Bay Sands Hotel dominates the 
Photo opperchancities were aplenty, so little jostling for the best positions, everyone was more polite than everyone else. Twenty four hours in 
Chewing gum – I did see the telltale black stains on one flight of steps in the garden area. Otherwise, every pavement, floor, is spotless.
Emerging into the heat was testing. There was a pit stop, cold drinks required. Having walked miles, the body was protesting. The base of the back, the legs, the feet in sandals for the first time in a month. Here is where the heat definitely helps, having resumed the walk the body thawed out. 
We passed the Tiger Taproom en route up the hill. Smoke-room – had me worried. I popped my head in, no ashtrays, smoking has long gone in 
Bubbleicious Burst (Ren Min, Singapore) at 6.4% was the real deal. With the full haze and a big hop hit, a joyful experience. HBC 586 and Superdilic hops were possibly not encountered previously, a definite – wow!
Heart of Darkness is an outlet for Bier of the eponymous Vietnamese brewery. A 
Wide awake at 05.00, I switched on the netbook. In the blink of an eye, Scotland lost another goal to Nederland. 4 v 0 ! Three subs, three goals lost in quick succession. John Souttar did not cover himself in glory. Meanwhile, Yilmaz limped off in the first half playing for 
Today’s Curry was at 
Google Maps does not work in 3D. I took from the blue dot that Kebabchi was inside, but how high up? We searched two floors up, inside and out. It would have been easier finding Anne Franke. At a Japanese restaurant cluster a young chap said – go to the basement! 
The approach to Helix Bridge was complicated by ongoing construction for the – Youth Olympics. Photos secured, there was little point actually crossing the bridge, Merlion was on our side. Blue sky today, time for the hat. As we took in the same views as yesterday, but with better conditions, so a young chap offered to take our photos. Marg handed over her phone and my camera.
You’ll run away – she said, in jest. 
The Merlion was mobbed with ever so polite people waiting in turn to have their photos taken at – the spot. Marg’s position meant she was cooled by the spray, the Hector was cooking. Bunkers, a pit stop, S$5.00 Colas. 
The brew-plant was there, the World’s highest urban microbrewery. Where was the telltale smell of yeast? Everything was pristine, if they do brew here it must be when nobody is around.
The tropical phenomenon of instant darkness meant we saw the night skyline without having to wait for twilight to dissipate. That was a view!
American Taproom is situated in a lane off Waterloo Street. Julia led Mihajlo to another branch. This multi-tap bar did not only feature Bier from the USA, it also had Verdant (Falmouth England) and Cloudwater (Manchester, England) were also available. 
Eight hours ahead, we were calling it a night as peeps back home were going out to play. The walk back to Ibis Styles Albert took no time at all. Marg claims to know these streets from her morning runs and has photos to prove it. 
You think a night is over and then it’s not. There were lights still on in Albert Street, people were sitting outside a venue having Bier. 
The last full day in 
Marg and Hector emerged from the Chinatown MRT stop on the Downtown line, other Singapore MRT lines are available, just after 14.00. 
As with 
The Bombay-Mexican food outlet stood out from the mass of eateries. Why come here for either? I have seen so ,any photos of Chinese/Thai/Japanese/Malay cuisine that I believe I have seen every Dish possible. Trotters are on many a menu, but – pig. Our Pakistani restaurants back home don’t have this. Paya!
It was time to rendezvous at Xiang Xiang Hunan Cuisine @Chinatown. The blue dot took us to the correct locus, but which shop exactly was it? With unforgiving signage what’s what? I had to ask in one restaurant where possibly their more famous competition was. We were directed across the street.
Table 26, not the window table the waitress directed us to. QR code ordering, what is this, Covid is no more. For reasons unknown, my Oppo wouldn’t pick up the QR code, Marg’s identical machine did. Two sweaty blobs ordered two colas, duly delivered. We had a menu, lots of delightful photos with English written also, yay. Marg was heading for her customary Pork: Bamboo shoot with stir-fried pork, but was then caught by the big photo of Xiang Xiang’s signature Dish: Hunan style stir-fried pork. Still Pork then. For Hector, it would normally be Duck, but the word – cumin – took me to the Beef dish. 
The table was soon laden with food. This sharing lark, no way with Curry, here it made sense. The lack of complexity in each dish makes one want variety. The Cumin Beef had lots of sliced Chillies and no Onion or Capsicum, Marg’s Pork had some Onion and loads of Capsicum. 
The Rice seemed stingy but this is as much a bib as an accompaniment. Sticky Rice, far from the cultured Basmati the Hector is used to. Imagine trying to pick up individual grains of Basmati with chop sticks. My fellow diners used the traditional weapons, I used what I have come to know as the ceramic soup spoon. It took us a while to wade through this lot, Mihajlo ordered more Tofu, he likes Tofu. Another chit in the drawer. 
It came time to pay, which chit was which? Out came the trusty Oppo, Google Translate recognised – Simple Chinese – and is if by magic, all was revealed. I took our chit to the counter, but we still owed for the first colas. 
Calum, a colleague of Julia’s joined us. His origins are Scottish. 
SG Taps, another multi-tap 
Time to leave 
A Monday lunchtime, surprisingly most of the cafes on Bencoolen Street, opposite Sim Lim Square were closed. This left the Hawker Market in the basement of Sim Lim as the obvious nearby place to eat. 
We had cash to get rid of, having only spent cents of the S$100.00 taken out on Day 1. Some units were selling substantial Dishes up to S$20.00, we knew what a feast these could be. Wok Of Wonders had prices suggesting more modest portions. Marg had Sweet & Sour Pork, for a change, the Hector – Chai Poh Fried Fish Rice. The whole fried egg was a feature of both Dishes and the sliced Red Chillies a feature of of mine. Marg had the big onions.
Our extra punctual taxi took us to Changi Airport at 14.15 for our evening flight to Brisbane. The driver insisted we visit – 
Putty, an 8.0% DIPA with the full on milkshake haze features Galaxy, Mosaic and Azacca hops. Imagine Mango Lassi with a kick. Today, selected pubs across the UK simultaneously served the keg. One keg per venue. The list of venues essentially defines the best Craft Beer bars in the UK.
Are you sure it will be on? – asked Marg.
For reasons unknown, our pre-booked train tickets from 
PsicoNauti – I had to buy their CD. Those who know CAN’s – Dizzy Dizzy (Soon Over Babaluma) will recognise the vibe. 
And so to Caffè Terzi, where we managed to get a table through the back. This was my first encounter of an Americano served as an Espresso with hot water, as well as hot milk, on the side. We like our coffee hotter than hot. 
The next half hour or so was spent at Le due Torri: Garisende e degli Asinelli. There was no desire to climb Garisende, but having just left Pisa, it was weird to discover that Asinelli is tilted by 0.1º more than Pisa’s more famous tower. 
There are two distinct lines of Craft Beer houses in 
Birreria Popolare 
Astral Beers Pub
Mornings, what’s the point? Marg tends to disappear to get her steps up, the Hector usually gets around to some blogging. With 
We strolled through Parco della Montagnola on our return from the wrong side of the tracks. Not much to see there.
Somehow we missed 
Il Punto
Eight taps, one more than seven, the choice boiled down to a 5.6% or 8.0% IPA. Still relatively early, the lesser was chosen. Sound (Birrificio Wyatt, Italia / Fan, San Marino) was cold, yellow and fizzy. With hardly any flavour at all, it should have attacked the palate after Hallertau Hops, it didn’t. More West Coast dryness, at least these encounters have yet to be sweet. A pity the IBU has not been forthcoming.
Trattoria Baraldi lies next door to 
Only then did I discover the Bier was 3.0%. I enjoyed every drop, but as this had become a very slow Bier day, it was time to move on up.
Marg sold me the need to enter 
No Curry for lunch today instead we dined at 051 Cibo e Passione in the heart of the market area. 
The pasta was different, tortellini stuffed with meat, and served in a cheese sauce that quickly became monotonous. Marg did better with lasagna. 
There was nobody behind the bar when we entered soon after opening time. Having inspected the array of – safe Bier – the kiosk in the corner of the room caught the eye. Different. As one would order a burger, so we purchased the gentle 5.0% Franziskaner Weizen (Spaten-Löwenbräu, Munchen), and a cocktail.
Meanwhile Marg had been given a bottle of water. Bier or water, that was it. Sadly, this curtailed the visit, else the feet would have been firmly planted under the table. Mein Host and a customer engaged. The customer worked across the street at a public facility. Here too was a hole in the wall serving gas for Frizzante. Is this why sparkling water is so cheap? 
Mein Host likes Pils, the Hector tends to avoid it, especially Deutsche Pils. Clearly a Bier enthusiast, I suggested he visit Manchester at the first opperchancity. He needs to be exposed to Craft Beer for the twenty first century. This was the best bar in 
We were recognised having been last night. The chap and his lady assistant looked after us. Second division Bier in many ways, but a proper bar and confirmed Via Pratello as the better of the two drinking areas. 
The annual trip to 
The Metro took us to Monastiraki, our accommodation for the first two days was opposite Little Cook, a much decorated cafe at the southern edge of Psiri and a major attraction for children of all ages. Hector will admit to having enjoyed the ice-cream here. 
Attic room – was how our accommodation was described, more like – rooftop. Bijou – would be another suitable description. For two nights, fine.
Bier o’clock, the staff thought otherwise. Anywhere else, we would have walked. Take in the view, take some photos. Eventually service, of sorts. The Bier list was poor, over-priced small bottles. That my first Bier of this trip was Budvar (Czechia) felt strange. Marg had Sparkling Water, she wanted a snack, not possible. The issued menu was due to change in ten minutes, if Marg wanted food, she would have to go downstairs to the restaurant. I texted both Clive and Maggie, relocation.
Beer Time
Clive and Maggie have moved house since I last saw then in 
Shots were provided as we departed, we are known here.
Grill Houses, don’t start me. Have the Greeks lost the ability to cook? I ended up with a substantial Meze Grill, OK, it was for two and Marg was willing to share. Great value for what we had and impossible to finish as a Meze should be. 
Suitably replete, we walked eastwards, across Athenas and into the back streets to find to 
We hadn’t seen Agis, Mein co-Host, for some time, hugs all round. At least tonight the music would be better. Led Zeppelin trumps Northern Soul, always IMHO. Agis also appreciates Prog Rock and acknowledged that Marg and I are due to see 
The board of ten taps had three – in the style – plus
Miltos was as exuberant as ever. It’s fair to say that he greets everyone with enthusiasm, and is not afraid of going OTT with those he knows. The board did not match the quality at 
Having justified the visit, it was time to take the long walk home, three minutes at most, including the stairs. It was a long day’s night. 
Marg likes to rise early and go for a run/walk depending on circumstances. This may involve a stop-off for breakfast. In Psiri, around Iroon Square, there are plenty of morning venues to choose from, I am told. Importantly, when the rain stopped around 06.00, the street s started to dry up. With rain still forecast for the coming days, there would be no going out with out a brolly.
Having drifted off the northern edge of Psiri, we were nearer Omonia. A day ticket was purchased, two stops to Larissa Station where we bought return tickets to Chalkida/Chalcis on Eoboea/Evia. Everywhere in 
Bus 36 was scheduled to take us almost to the door. It was like being back in Glasgow, multiples of every other route appeared, not the 36. A half hour wait, by which time Clive and Maggie had reached Padre and ascertained a lack of Bier choice. The delivery had not come. Sensibly, they had a Bier whilst they waited, at a table outside, as we would discover. Our small bus emptied en route. By the time we reached our stop, we were down to three passengers. A strange little bus is the 36.
Bus 35 would take us back to Psiri, it passed regularly whilst we sat outside Padre. Then it stopped, Google showed a re-route. The ladies returned from their coffee break and reported riot police up the street. Marg and Hector have previously been caught up in an 
At 
22.00 is not that late for dining in 
Fermi Paradox was on here too, however, it was straight back to Take Your Time “Persephone” (Main Squeeze Brewing, Athena, Hellas). As it happened, the Brewer was sitting beside me, another introduction. The Hector knows nobody in 
The first pit-stop today was at Letraria da Anunciada, a pleasant place to stop and acclimatise in the shade to the extra few degrees Centigrade that 
There was no water in the fountains at Praça dos Restauradores, still, there was the ritual photographs to be taken, similarly at the waterfront – Cais das Colunas. En route we passed the most famous lift in Lisboa – Elevador de Santa Justa, the queues were as long as ever. However, Hector draws the reader’s attention to the most useful means of gaining height on the west side of 
More bunkers were required, a brief stop off at a pavement cafe presented a unique photo opperchancity – Yo, Ladies! – that’s a Bier glass!
So good was the Nelson Sauvin, I decided that Verge (Funky Fluid, Polska), an 8.0% – NEDIPA – could wait for another day. 
Nelson Sauvin has become a favourite hop, this full on Hazy IPA totally hit the spot. There was more! With two staff, the service was a bit hit and miss. The chap appeared easily distracted. Still, I knew we would be back here over the course of the coming week, I have yet to find the Bier choices here to be a let-down. Another bonus, the sound system was not manned this evening, last year we had to tolerate electro nonsense. 
Afterwards, 
This left
Friday Prayers, not that the Hector is ever likely to attend, however, the number of times this coincides with Curry is uncanny. We arranged to meet Clive and Maggie at Martim Moniz Metro station, metres from Curry Heaven in 
At the foot of the hill, which we walked up too often in 2020 before discovering the escalators, lies 
Some time after 2020, 
Having turned right last night on reaching Rua dos Bacalhoeiros and finding all restaurants full, tonight Hector applied some Stats & Geography (after Hotelling) the normal distribution and turned left. An inside table was secured at Adega do Atum, a proper Portuguese restaurant. Hector had that well known Portuguese delicacy – Seafood Paella, and to prove consistency, Marg had a Tuna Salad.
Now for the main event. Tonight no messing, Hector would have the Verge (Funky Fluid, Polska) DIPA at 8.0%, but only after a sensible Nelson Sauvin (Funkly Fluid, Polska).
The eve of – The Birthday – today’s plan: to stay until after midnight. Before then, some unfinished business. Having what felt like – Tapas – yesterday at 
Normally the modern tram would take us from Cais das Colunas to Belém, however, the line in the city centre has been ripped up. Cais do Sodre is therefore the present terminus. We headed west, under – 
As with 
A – Gastropub – in other words it served Burgers. I have reached the stage where Burgers and/or Pizza is the food of the last resort. Is this what the masses are destined to eat forever? Throw in some Spicy Chicken Wings and the Hector may be tempted. Maybe the conservative food was a reflection of the Bier choice also. With ten taps representing a range of Bier for different nations, plus a fridge with T.E.A. – Traditional English Ale, in theory, something for everyone. This – one – as ever was hoping for NEIPA but had to settle for West Coast. I was surprised when this turned into a two Bier stop. 
Bah! Cascais (Bah Craft Beer, Portugal) is a 6.0% APA. At 50 IBU, it was gold, clear, dry, and not exciting in any way. Importantly no nasties were tasted. 
The birthday card from Marg was appropriate as always. However, for once, there was to be no Curry-Heute. My intended venue is closed on Sundays. Hector’s 67th birthday in 
We left, gained altitude with the nearby Baixo-Chiado escalators, and tracked down Cervejaria Do Bairro which was empty. The match was arranged, meanwhile Rangers’ inept defending once again saw a goal lost on the 42nd minute mark. Game over. Happy Birthday, not.
Today, a blue sky and no haze. Marg gave me into trouble for barking at a couple with a wean who appeared to be taking root at the obvious spot from which to take photos.
Despite the throng, we managed a tram back down to the centrum. On the south side of Praça Figueira lies Marg’s favourite coffee and cake shop – Confeitaria Nacional. There was cake for the Hector. Fitting. 
Maggie needed shoes, just like that. Actually, she had been slipping with her inadequate footwear for days. Bad planning. This interrupted the next trek up flights of steps and another slope, of course, to – The Queen Ale – Craft Beer Bar. What a royal day it could have been. 
Two chaps were behind the bar, no other customers, it was but late afternoon. Friends of staff did join them at adjacent tables once we were settled. This was a two Bier stop. 
First up, a Spanish NEIPA appropriately named Smooth (Peninsula, Espana) at 7.2%. With a decent milkshake haze, this lived up to its name. The hops were quite pronounced: Verdant, Elaborado con Bru-1, El Dorado and Talus. The latter was not an issue. 
The Queen Ale looks like a place to keep an eye on. If today was typical, then they have Bier – in-the-style. There was an interesting fridge also, but who wants this Scottish brewed Irn Bru in a Bier? Had we stayed longer, then hopefully we would have had more interaction with the staff. There will be a next time. 
We chose Inhaca, a table outside with space such that those who pollute would not be right up against us. Our first alfresco meal of this trip. It was time for Hector to have Catapla- na. My fellow diners wimped out. A bottle of Mateus Rosé had to be also, this time Marg shared more. 
The mains were being presented, the Birthday Boy’s came last.
Is that it? 
Iparactivo (
Back on the Metro, two stops home. The hill up to our apartment suddenly felt like but a mound. 
At the halfway point, Hector secured a decent photo of Ponte 25 de Abril. On arrival, the submarine was the big attraction. 
We were about to negotiate a discounted pensioner entry when I spotted another sign, ah well. Next time.
On 
At our pit-stops, the Hector was busy planning a trip to Óbidos, preferably for tomorrow. Somewhat surprisingly, a tour company did come straight back to me confirming availability. However, the more research that was done, it became obvious – take the service bus.
Weekend (
Rua do Benformoso
Marg wanted coffee, the surly chap would only supply espresso, declined. 
With the knowledge that better Bier was available down the hill, it was back on Tram 28, in the same direction of travel, alighting just above
It was – Dan the Man – our guide on the Canyonlands school trip of 2010, who first made Hector aware of the mediaeval town – Óbidos. But how to get there? Four people on an organised tour was throwing away money. Train was a possibility, too slow and infrequent. The – Rapida Verde – coach service from the main bus station could be the way.
This unfortunately included Maggie who soon headed off with Clive in search of shade. They took refuge at Petrarum Domus Bar where cold, yellow, fizzy lager was served. Quite a place, we had it to ourselves. If one was here of an evening, this could well be the place – to dine.
With twelve taps and a choice of NEIPA, so far so good. Suprassumo (5.0%) was not on. The staff weren’t bothered. There was no word of it returning, complete indifference. We were left with the other 5.0% NEIPA – Triton whose efficacy I have to challenge. With only the slightest haze, this was far too sharp tasting, the wrong mouthfeel. Nelson Sauvin hops were allegedly featured, so where was the hop hit?
I let Clive and Maggie choose our next and final venue for the evening. Surprisingly, 
Finally, there was a sense of recognition, we were not just tourists passing through. Patrick, Mein Host, engaged, we discussed the original venue and the move west. The good news, NEIPAs do make an appearance here. Given the proximity to 
The final day of this trip began with some blogging whilst Marg was out for her daily exercises. The hills of 
Sensing that our fellow travellers could be melting, we arranged to meet for ice-cream at 15.00. Being Mr. Garrett’s birthday, where better than Amorino Lisboa Garrett? This involved a walk up the hill behind Baixa-Chiado, logically, it was downhill on the way back. In fact, we managed to avoid any serious hills thereafter. It’s almost as though someone knew what they were doing.
I don’t often get the chance to rave about hot melted Chocolate. I understand that this is how Chocolate was first consumed, by the elite who could afford it, before the fondant and Chocolate bar was invented. Yes, I have been to a Belgian Chocolate Museum, one has to keep Marg amused in the afternoons.
As expected, the tap Bier was not setting the heather on fire, Tasters dismissed. The young lady serving produced a can: Captao Leitao 
Downstairs we went, with the door to the garden open it was a bit chilly. Back upstairs, the only low table was occupied by a chap with a laptop. It turned out he was – The Boss – and was doing the accounts. There was no interaction despite being propped at the window beside him for a good hour or so. A pity. Rather than take the Metro home, it was decided, by others, that we would walk. Fortunately it was all downhill. En route we passed
We alighted at the furthest extremity of the tour and walked back to the next pickup point, along Praia de Matosinhos. Hector put a finger in the Atlantic, enough already. 
So back along the coast road, the Tourist Tram ran parallel, this may be as good as any means of getting our to the west of 
As we approached the city centre, it was matter of finding a new Bier venue. 
The tap Bier at 
Marg and Hector were having Portuguese food tonight. 
Bonaparte
No fireworks tonight, just the short walk downhill to São Bento. Tomorrow: