Day 50 – Wednesday, May 8th San Francisco CA to Seattle WA
Unable to use the check-in kiosk for Alaska Airlines, we had to find a person to process us. Elmer came up trumps, he was no fud. Not only was our baggage allowance recognised, he added further notes to ensure that our flight out of Seattle would be problem free.
Flying over Oregon, a decision that was not made lightheartedly. Apart from the zoo in Portland, I doubt if there was much to amuse Marg. Another zoo? In 2018, Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Trip ended in Seattle, we were just finding the mother-lode of breweries when it was time to go home. This time, the Hector had our four nights planned.
This trip has spent quite some time on the edge of the Pacific Ring of Fire and on top of the Hot Spots (Hawaii). Having left San Francisco, the earthquake risk has subsided, for the next few days, a volcanic eruption becomes the next natural hazard.
The Cascade Mountains came into view from our vantage point at some 30,00ft. Mt. Shasta or Medicine Lake Volcano was the first encountered. This was followed soon after by Crater Lake, I never thought I’d see it in the flesh as it were. 
Mt. St. Helens was on the starboard side of the ‘plane, so the most famous mountain in the range was missed. However, Mt. Rainier loomed large, half the height of our flying altitude, and much closer on our descent to SeaTac Airport. We would see it every time we looked east from Downtown Seattle.
The Green Line (1) took us from SeaTac to International District/Chinatown. On alighting, it was straight to the ORCA card corporate office to get the necessaries. By clever planning and an on-time flight, we had an hour to spare before closing time. A lady trainee, supervised by a lady of Yoruba origin, processed our travel cards. This time the Hector merited the named card of an Honored Citizen, and travel at a fraction of the going rate.
Bus 4 to Belltown Inn took some time to arrive. Once again we were treated to a psycho drama involving a vagrant and a do-gooder. Our stop opposite Belltown Inn was adjacent to a congregation of down and outs. The fictional Elliott Bay Towers in Belltown is where Frasier lived. I don’t recall the vagrant being outside his apartment block.
Accommodation in Seattle does not come cheap. Once again I can post that the Belltown Inn is the most expensive hotel I have ever stayed at. The young chap at check-in said he was giving us an upgrade, always nice to hear,one wond ers what we might have got. Anyway, a large, bright, spacious room overlooking the city is what we were given. No view of the bay.
Chili’s South Indian Cuisine is where the Hector was headed first. Back on the Green Line heading north took us to the University District. Chilli’s is a matter of metres from the Metro station.
In 2018, Hector was here twice, it was that wonderful. A friend of Tracey B had made it known that the review on Curry-Heute of the second visit was posted in the window. As it happened, multiple copies were in situ around this wonderful Curry House. The only thing missing was our hostess – Anila. I promised we would return on Friday for lunch.
Back Downtown, it was time to show Marg some of Pike Place Market and the sunset. To the east, Mount Rainier, long overdue a performance. Fortunately there have been no overtures of late.
Starbucks, the original, was promised for a later time, it was definitely Bier o’clock, and Seattle is, IMHO, the Bier capital of the USA, the World even. When we reach New England, this viewpoint may change. I still cannot find New England on a map.
It was Scott, a USAAF veteran who led Dr. Stan and Hector to Cloudburst Brewing back in ’18. Located halfway between Pike Market and Belltown Inn, the plan was that this would become our – local.
The Bier list was studied, one stood out. Two Player Mode at 6.7% with Nelson Sauvin and Mosaic hops, it had to be. Two stunning hops in a juicy milkshake, this Bier was right on the button. A sensible abv, the body to match, there was no need to say anything else this evening. Marg was being super-indulgent.
Clouburst at source in Seattle WA, the Hector was home.
The brewery and restaurant visited today:
Cloudburst Brewing – 2116 Western Ave, Seattle, WA 98121
Chili’s South Indian Cuisine – 4220 University Way NE, Seattle, WA 98105
Day 51 – Thursday, May 9th Seattle WA
The Space Needle, one may be aware of it already, it’s totie in comparison to the Downtown buildings. Yet again the Hector had to ascend the heights to verify if this perception was true.
First lunch was to be had, where better than a random outlet in Pike Place Market? Sound View Cafe in the lower deck of the market was chosen, well, because it had a view. The usual food parameters were in vogue. Marg did well with her omelette and fries, the Hector, not so.
This morning I happened to read an article about Michael Caine. An unassuming chap, on a film set, he asked if a turkey sandwich was possible. Knowing that a sandwich in the USA is something different from a slice of cold meat between two slices of Mother’s Pride, I thought I would investigate. Way too dry, the obligatory cheese was naff, salad cream would have been better.
Not great bread, and Hector only ever has crisps with Bier. Is a steak much sandwich better?
Time to be tourists. Marg missed the chaps at the Fish Market throwing the fish after a sale. The Chewing Gum Wall was suitably disgusting.
As a consequence of Tom Hanks in – Big – the – Zoltar – machine was given the utmost respect.
With quite a few other interesting stores, we maybe spent longer here than expected. The avoidedance of acquiring needless chattels continues, we have a weight restriction until we reach Boston. This did not stop the Hector trying to locate a – Columbia -–sportswear outlet, with no success.
The Seattle Monorail was built in the early 1960s when this city hosted the World Fair.
The Monorail connects Downtown to the Seattle Center, a walkable distance, so apart from the passing tourist, probably a complete waste of money. The Orca Card was valid, so why not?
Having purchased the tickets for the Space Needle, we had to walk up a ramp to find the elevator. Wheech!
A glass floor, let’s not stand on that. Close to the edge, let’s not stand there.
I managed to secure photos of Fremont where I stayed in 2018, plus Ballard where we were headed next. Plus, of course, Mt. Rainier dominated the inland skyline.
With acrophobia, there are few places where one can stand in these constructions and not melt. Let’s get aff.
Bier o’clock
The D Line Bus took us north from 1st and Denny to 15th and NW Leary, right on the southern edge of what must be the finest cluster of breweries and taprooms anywhere on the planet. No nutters on this bus, but we had been warned about Bus 28. At the corner of NW Leary and 14th there was a small gathering, not a brewery, a food bank. Whilst one has sympathy for the needy, particularly those with non-self-inflected problems, what about them who were filling their SUVs?
Reuben’s Brews Taproom was choice #1. Visited in 2018, this was certainly one of the outstanding breweries encountered on that fateful day spent at this locus, and too late. Then, I had two, today one Bier only. After our days in San Francisco and Honolulu, it is clear I can keep Marg amused if we keep moving on. Just the five Hazy IPAs to choose from, though Quad Crush at 12.0% was a non starter.
Hazealicious at 6.0% felt like a decent starting point. A Hazy IPA / NEIPA, with Citra, Strata and Mosaic, this was truly wonderful. The full milkshake haze, the body, this is what I struggled to find so often in New Zealand. On a chaps trip, there would have been more of this, and others on the list tried. Hours would have been spent at Reuben’s, not today.
Great Notion Brewing – Ballard lay diagonally across the street.
Just the three NEIPAs around the 7.0% mark. Same ritual. Again, this was a large, welcoming venue, but I cannot verify of there was actually brewing at this site.
Pulpatine at 7.0% could not have been more Hazy unless it has been pure mango juice The photo does not do it justice. Another Bier I immediately wanted more of, to think I could have still been at Reuben’s... HBC 586, Galaxy, Nelson Sauvin and Mosaic hops, another winner.
Lucky Envelope Brewing lay a whole two blocks east.
Dr. Stan and I reached this late in the day back in 2018, the serving Doris was excellent. Alas, she has moved on and none of the staff today recognised her.
There was a queue, the end of a running club meeting, don’t people have work on Thursday afternoons? Who wears pink? Frelard – Fremont/Ballard?
As I queued outside, I sent Marg in to grab a table just in case it got too wild. The majority sat outside in the sunshine, not a place for Hector to drink Bier.
Twelve taps, but only one Hazy. Whilst it was good to be back, relive the memory, and take in today’s extravaganza, this time, definitely a one pit stop.
El Dorado at 6.4%, a Hazy IPA, the board was giving away no more. Momentarily, HBC 586, Citra Incognito, Mosaic and El Dorado hops were confirmed. A step down from what came before this felt a bit thin for the abv, Remember, on another day, I would still have been at Reuben’s.
*
*
*
With two venues previously visited and one new one, time to restore parity.
Bale Breaker & Yonder Cider Taproom was but half a block east. Another substantial building, here there was no queue.
There was a chuck wagon outside, and Marg was hungry. Bale Breaker boasts of having the largest outdoor seating area in Seattle. With the sun setting, it was safe to join them.
Thirty two taps, but half were Cider. Only one Bier was definitely brewed in Ballard, the remainder probably at the main plant at Yakima WA.
Moon River at 6.6% a Hazy IPA with Mosaic, HBC 586 and NZ Nectaron hops, there was nothing here not to like. The fist sip was a big hit, thereafter the same buzz was not quite attained. Maybe the palate needed a break, or reinvigorating.
Marg went to fetch food.
Today was the day, fifty days without a Burger, it had to be. A burger or nothing. The Beef Kamikaze was right up Hector’s street. I first met my now good friend – Jalapeno – in this very State, down in Vancouver WA.
When one knows what to expect, it takes the edge off. There was no escaping cheese, this is the USA. Marg also bought Croquettes, now we had a feast. One can never have too many Croquettes.
Then there was Marg’s drink, who knows what this was meant to be.
This was my fourth Bier of the day, I wasn’t caring much, but the brain did have a final stop-off in mind. In the direction of where we could get our bus back to Belltown, lies Trailbend Taproom. In 2018, the Doris at Lucky Envelope promised us that this bar would be the last place to close in Ballard and would have a worthy range of Bier on offer.
A block and a bit back west, we came across Wheelie Pop Brewing, Trailbend was immediately next door. We sat at the bar, it had been a while. Just as well, impressive as the board was, no abv was given. Marg announced she was having an Aperol Spritz, might as well join the party. The barman was excellent.
A choice from three became Under Under (No Boat Brewing Company, Snoqualmie WA) at 6.8% featured Nelson Sauvin and Motueka hops. Under Under is reportedly an ever changing brew featuring New Zealand hops. Tonight the Hector had another winner. This was a wonderful Bier on which to finish a wonderful day of Ballard-Seattle Bier drinking.
*
Bus 40 was a civilised affair. Heading south-east through Fremont, we passed Outlander Brewery & Pub which became Dr. Stan and Hector’s local back in 2018. Not tonight.
Our end stop was at 3rd and Virginia. This meant walking a few blocks back along 3rd Avenue which I now appreciate has quite a reputation for dereliction. I’ve seen worse, try Dumbarton (Scotland) town centre. The vagrant was at peace.
Hector was not for hitting the hay yet, there is always writing to be done. Unfortunately, a group of yoofs were intolerably loud as they ate their Takeaway at the large communal table in the reception area at Belltown Inn. Even the Hector knows when he is beat.
The breweries, taprooms, bar and restaurant visited today:
Reuben’s Brews – The Taproom – 5010 14th Ave NW, Seattle, WA 98107
Great Notion – Ballard – 5101 14th Ave NW Suite 101, Seattle, WA 98107
Lucky Envelope Brewing – 907 NW 50th St, Seattle, WA 98107
Bale Breaker & Yonder Cider Taproom – 826 NW 49th St, Seattle, WA 98107
Trailbend Taproom – 1118 NW 50th St, Seattle, WA 98107
Sound View Cafe – 1501 Pike Pl #501, Seattle, WA 98101
Day 52 – Friday, May 10th Seattle WA
Whilst Curry at Chili’s South Indian Cuisine was foremost in Hector’s mind today, Marg was keen to visit the original Starbuck’s afore. An early morning rise to minimise the wait, or even avoid, the queue. Early? We’re not flying today.
11.00 was early as Marg could get the Hector out of Belltown Inn. The short walk to Pike Place Market led us past Cloudburst Brewing, more on that tonight. Yes, there was a queue, but Marg was persuaded to just wait.
Well organised, there was a lady marshal who engaged with everyone as they reached the front of the line. Having paid little attention before, there was now time to take stock of what was happening. The queue was advancing steadily, how were they turning people over this quickly? Was there a rear door through which customers were departing? What about those who wished to have a second coffee, or just sit and relax?
The explanation as to how this conveyor system suddenly dawned. The #1 Starbucks outlet is – coffee to go – only. What?
Once inside, there was a photo frenzy. After all, this would be a once in a lifetime experience. Latte for Marg, Frappuccino for Hector, with cream on top, and why not? Marg extracted every bit of pleasure from our few minutes inside, chatting with everyone.
We took our coffee back across the road to the viewing balcony on Pike Place Market.
Mt. Rainier was still behaving.
And so back on the Green Line up to the University District and Chili’s.
Our Hostess, Anila, was not present as we once again took our seats, momentarily that changed. It was Marg who Anila recognised first having read Wednesday’s review already. Indeed, multiple printouts were to hand, soon laminated. Maybe one day I’ll get to see if today’s visit receives similar celebration. Lunch was, of course, excellent, and on-the-house.
Mutual respect, Curry-Heute features prominently at Chili’s South Indian Cuisine, the best Curry encountered in the West of the USA.
Big Time Brewery and Alehouse was almost directly across the street, however, Hector was keen to get back to Ballard. Marg wanted ice-cream, Sweet Alchemy, located at the Metro, was not sit-in, we had had done enough Takeaway today. Prior experience, Bus 44 runs east-west across North Seattle, to the north of Fremont, where I stayed in 2018, on to Ballard, and Bier.
Bier o’clock was decidedly early today.
Stoup Brewing was the closest to where we alighted, and was also the first brewery in Ballard visited in 2018. In 2018 there was a sense of family groups, today less so. In 2018, IPA was accepted as West Coast, but NEIPA was changing the palate. 
This trip has been unashamedly about exploring the latter, and so Cap Hill *Magic* at 6.3% was the go-to Bier. This proved to be the perfect start to another day. The full milkshake haze set the Bier to be totally – in the style. With a body matching the abv, this sat well on the plate. New Zealand hops, nothing not to like. Cryo POP, Nelson Sauvin and Riwaka Cryo featured. Who has been to Nelson?
Keeping to the one brewery, one Bier model, the next venue was being considered. I didn’t have to go far. Directly across the street lies – Urban Family Brewery – another brewery – in the pink.
Understandably quiet mid afternoon, there was still a good vibe here. Burning – by – The War on Drugs – had the Hector reach for SoundHound. Meanwhile there was Bier.
World Wide Wallabies at 5.5%, another New Zealand hopped delight. A NEIPA with the full milkshake haze and a body way thicker than most at this abv, this was totally tropical, excellent. Nelson Sauvin and Riwaka hops once again. I may have missed the hop harvest in Nelson-Motueka-Riwaka, however, the hops have reached these shores ahead of us, the Bier is ready and waiting for the transient Hector.
The temptation to stay in Ballard, try more breweries, re-visit the highlights of yesterday, not to be. Marg still wanted ice-cream, there was a Salt and Straw Cap outlet a few blocks west, however the Downtown venue caught the eye. As yet, I hadn’t set foot this far inland in this Seattle peninsula, cue a bus.
Bus 44 could have taken us almost to the door, but would have taken all day. Alighting at the University District we took the Green Line Metro down to Capitol Hill. This unveiled a walk past Cal Anderson Park, sites and architecture of Seattle different from Belltown. There was also the realisation that this area features a mini cluster of Breweries never explored, including another Stoup outlet.
We did pass Redhook Brewlab housed in the Pike Motorworks Building. Four nights in Seattle, I should have stretched it to five.
En route to Salt and Straw Cap, we also passed a statue commemorating a certain Mr. James Hendrix, a more than competent guitarist, who was born in Seattle. The ice-cream was small for the money, Bier is better value by far.
Crossing Interstate 5 was a landmark moment, the road which runs from Mexico, through California, Oregon and Washington to Canada.
I have certainly been on the southern stretch of this highway on a day trip to Tijuana from Los Angeles back in 2000. One day in Mexico, make that an afternoon.
There was a time out back at Belltown Inn, quite a warm afternoon.
Tonight was the last opperchancity to let rip in Seattle, another flight in two days. Little did I know what awaited.
Here Today Brewery & Kitchen is located directly west of our hotel, but with the Downtown Seattle grid tilted a la Brisbane, we had to take a series of right and left turns to reach the desired part of Elliot Avenue. Beyond the brewery lies Olympic Sculpture Park which Marg has encountered in her morning walk/exercise ritual. A railway line which must have been under our feet all along is on the surface at the brewery, now hugging the coastline. Frasier may have had a view over Elliot Bay from his fictional Tower, I do not see how Here Today Brewery can claim to be a waterfront establishment.
Marg fancied a cocktail. Oleander included the key phrase – Masala Chai – a favourite. What came was truly awful, even Marg admitted that this milky tea concoction was not to her taste. Meanwhile there was Bier to be selected. After two winners earlier, Glitter Paw at 6.4% was only – decent – or – de-saint?
A Hazy IPA / NEIPA with Warrior, Citra and Mosaic hops, it was the sense of mango which stood out. A better Bier may have commanded another, but tonight was about the return visit to Cloudburst.
Two Player Mode was the immediate attraction, still as wonderful as it was two days previously. The Hector was certainly congratulating himself for having chosen accommodation in Belltown.
As we were staying put, time to try something different. Not a Lawyer at 6.7% a Hazy IPA / NEIPA had the full milkshake haze, however, a slight tartness took the edge off. Simcoe, Cashmere and Citra were the featured hops.
As I entered my Bier score on Untappd so I became aware of somebody called Matthew doing the same. It didn’t take long to work out who it was. Born in Island, now resident in Edmonton (Canada), Matthew was taking the opperchancity to enjoy some Bier whilst his wife and daughter were at a teeny-bop concert nearby.
As we indulged ourselves in Two Player Mode, Marg was happy to have fresh meat with which to converse. Marg’s Bier knowledge ain’t too shabby, she has been to Bamberg (Bayern) often enough to hold her own even though she has only ever had a single Bier. Then of course there’s Czechia and Polska.
A 22.00 closing time, Hector was not last out, some known to the barman had that honour. I’m not from New Zealand, far too early for bed. Just The Tap was around the corner, a bar, what a bar.
Open until midnight, this turned out to be a – pour your own – venue a la – Off The Wall – Honolulu (Hawaii). We appeared to be first in, but there were people in the back room in this substantial venue. Having taken a $20.00 deposit, a young chap talked me through the process – doh! Marg managed to acquire a Bacardi, or similar, and cola.
The Biers which caught the eye were from Seattle breweries visited in 2018: Fremont Brewing, close to where we stayed, and the long established Downtown venue – The Pike Brewing Company.
Fremont’s Sky Kraken at 5.5% was described as a Hazy Pale Ale. It wasn’t. Almost clear, thin for the abv, it was an OK starter, but was not to be taken seriously. Should it have been Hazy? Was this another example of the staff not rolling the kegs before opening time?
Cosmic Pulp (Pike Brewing) took me surprise. A wonderfully Juicy IPA at 6.6%, if they had this at source back in 2018, Dr. Stan and Hector didn’t spot it. With the full milkshake haze and the juiciness living up to its classification, this was another joyful Bier experience today. Citra, Amarillo, El Dorado and Mosaic were the featured hops. There was more poured.
Our stay at Just The Tap was prolonged when yet another party broke out. A couple wearing interesting t-shirts had to be engaged. Emily RB and Åsmund joined us. Scandinavians of course, well it should be obvious given I can print the correct – Å – in WordPress, but not the correct – I – in Island.
We had an excellent hour in their company.
This was a long and near perfect day, what aurora borealis? Mysterious coffee, quality Curry, a free lunch, excellent Bier, a late night, but there was a mist on the horizon. At 04.30, our time, there’s an Old Firm match.
The breweries, bar, restaurant, coffee house and cafe visited today:
Stoup Brewing – 1108 NW 52nd St, Seattle, WA 98107
Urban Family Brewing Co. – 1103 NW 52nd St, Seattle, WA 98107
Here Today Brewery & Kitchen – 2815 Elliott Ave Suite 101, Seattle, WA 98121
Cloudburst Brewing – 2116 Western Ave, Seattle, WA 98121
Just The Tap – 90 Blanchard St, Seattle, WA 98121
Chili’s South Indian Cuisine – 4220 University Way NE, Seattle, WA 98105
Starbucks – 1912 Pike Pl, Seattle, WA 98101
Salt and Straw Cap – Pike Motorworks, 714 E Pike St Suite A, Seattle, WA 98122
Day 53 – Saturday, May 11th Seattle WA
Joe Biden, President of the United States of America is in Seattle today. So are Marg and Hector, our final day. A pity we cannot fit him into our itinerary, far too busy, we have a completely different agenda. Having missed out on the Aviation Museum at Pearl Harbor (Honolulu), today was payback day for all the animals encountered in captivity on this trip. The Museum of Flight is situated at the southern end of Boeing Field and to the north of SeaTac Airport. This was as close as the Hector would get to a return to Renton.
The day began early, the trusty Oppo was switched on around 05.30, ah well. This season it appears that in Old Firm matches, The Famous score early, VAR disallow the goal, we lose. So it goes.
Somehow, we managed to head south without brunch. Bus 124 almost magically took us from directly outside Belltown Inn at 3rd & Bell all the way to the airfield. Our route passed through Georgetown, with just the six breweries, including other outlets for Elysian and Great Notion. As and when Dr. Stan reads these pages, he knows the future is not infinite and the ball is in his court.
The Museum of Flight is not just an aeroplane museum, the first hall we entered was about space.
It is written that after landing on the Moon in 1969, Neil Armstrong visited Kitty Hawk NC where the Wright Bothers made the World’s first powered flight, allegedly, as recently as 1903.
Leaving the room about space, where the exhibitors were keen to display the answer to the question everyone as to ask, we entered the main hangar. A Boeing B-17 was the first ‘plane encountered.
B-17
I had never seen a B-17, the Flying Fortress. Nearby, the B-29, the Superfortress, the ‘plane which bombed Hiroshima.
B-29
The demeanor of the Enola Gay flight crew suggests they may have appreciated the significance of this flight.
B-52
Outside the hangar was the B-52, Stratofortress which entered service in 1952 and was the stalwart heavy bomber for some forty years. Yes, the Hector has a fascination with ‘planes.
As I stood taking in the size of the Flying Fortress and just how close the belly – ball turret – was to the ground, we were approached by a chap, keen to talk to us. He was acting as the agent for Captain Dick Nelms, a WWII veteran, aged 101!
He had flown a B-17 over Deutschland on an insane number of missions. Twenty five missions was the initial norm before crew were rotated home to instruct.
The introduction of the long range fighter escort – Mustang – (left) as close to a copy of the Spitfire (right) one could build without infringing copyright, saw the number of missions raised to thirty, then thirty five. Dick Nelms completed the thirty five, Catch 22 invoked in reality. It was an honour to meet Capt. Nelms, we chatted for some time.
B-47
Strategic Air Command, a Cold War era movie starring another WWII war hero, James Stewart, featured the B-47 – Stratojet – which was parked beside the B-17. (If I have my photos interpreted correctly.)
Air Force One – Boeing 707
Air Force One, it’s not every day one gets to board such a well known ‘plane. However, the Boeing 707 featured here dates back to the 1960s, Kennedy, Nixon et al.
A Boeing 747 – Jumbo Jet – eventually replaced the series of 707s, what better than to board the prototype 747?
The icing on the cake was Concord. A huge ‘plane with minimal seating.
Concord
It didn’t look too comfortable, just as well the flights were short. The Hector get to do the pre-take-off drill.
We had to cross Interstate 5 by a bridge to the further exhibits.
Hector was home, behold the Messerschmidt Bf-109, a ‘plane so rugged in design it looks menacing.
Bf-109
Spitfire
The sleek lines of the Supermarine Spitfire may be graceful, I have always been drawn to the Bf-109, even though it was superced by the Focke-Wolf Fw 190 by 1941. Prior to WWII, the Bf 109 was originally powered by the Rolls Royce Merlin (eventually built in Hillington, Glasgow) as was the Spitfire, before, through necessity, a Daimler-Benz, air-cooled engine, had to be installed.. The two fighters exhibited, were unlikely to have met. With canons on the wing, this is a much later mark of Spitfire.
Mustang
Curtiss
In the same hangar, the P-51 Mustang, the inferior Curtiss P-40 Warhawk and the Russian, Yakolev Yak-9U. All look as if they mean business, again Spitfire clones?
Yak
Then there’s the US Navy fighter-bombers, some of which look as if they were hardly capable of flight. The Republic P-47D Thunderbolt and General Motors FM-2 Wildcat appear rugged, but slow.
Thunderbolt
Having seen Midway, both versions, and read too many books on this subject, it is generally accepted that some were sitting ducks.
Wildcat
Marg was hungry, as was the Hector, despite the visual elation providing sustenance.
The on-site Wings Cafe was our only hope. Chilli, a wee pot, a wee snack, lots of cheese. European sparkling water, yay.
WWI aeroplanes, it all started here.
Caproni
Today I learned that it was the Italians who first installed a machine on the monoplane – Caproni Ca 20. Was the gun pointing backwards? Thereafter, the familiar Sopwith Camel, S.E.5a, Albatros D.Va biplanes and Fokker Dr.I Triplane were on display.
Sopwith Camel + Snoopy
S.E.5
Albatros
Fokker Dr.1
The replica, dirty Fokker was done out in black, not the red of Baron von Richtofen. It was Arthur Roy Brown who shot down the Red Baron, not Charlie. Snoopy was spotted sitting on the wing of the Sopwith Camel.
The final hanger proved to be a ‘plane too far for Marg. She didn’t appreciate how many different aeroplanes could possibly have been built, more than animals in a zoo. The star of this section was the stunning Lockheed M-21 – Blackbird.
Blackbird
Whilst to this observer, the Americans were always seen to be catching up, piston fighter, passenger jet, jet fighter, this beast, unleashed in 1963 looks ahead of its time.
The edges say – stealth – yet this Mach 3 bomber, used as a reconnaissance jet, may well never have been used in anger.
Cruise Missile
Suspended from the roof was a series of drones including the recognisable AGM-86 (?) cruise missile.
V1 – Doodle Bug
No collection would be complete without the Fieseler Fi 103 “V1” – Doodle Bug – the World’s first turbojet flying bomb. Here’s an opperchancity to remind readers that Marg and Hector have visited Peenemünde (Deutschland) where the V1 and V2 were developed.
The ubiquitous Bell UH-1H “Huey” helicopter, yet seen in the flesh today for the first time, and the McDonnell F-4C Phantom II completed the sensible sightseeing.
Phantom
Then there was the Taylor Aerocar III, well it was the 1960s.
Taylor Aerocar III
This is a précis of the vehicles seen today, as with Pearl Harbor, The Museum of Flight deserves its own page.
As we stood at the bus stop outside what was the original Boeing HQ, so Mt. Rainier loomed, nearer than seen already.
Back in Seattle, Marg wanted ice-cream. You’d think it was hot, wait until tomorrow. Gelatiamo, another chain, provided the necessaries. This found us Downtown, it was Bier o’clock.
The Pike Brewing Company was first visited in 2018, as is written, this is where we met Scott, another USAAF veteran, who promptly led us to Cloudburst. Until yesterday, I had no plan to return, then I sampled Cosmic Pulp late last night at Just The Tap. The Hector had to have this wonderful Bier – at source.
The interior of Pike Brewing remains dramatic. In addition to brew plant, the multi-level, multi-tap brewpub, is adorned with Bier paraphernalia. A veritable museum of Bier memorabilia.
Despite Hector’s warning, Marg ordered Root Bier. Bubblegum is how it tastes to me, Marg went as far as – not pleasant.
As reported yesterday, Cosmic Pulp at 6.6% was as good as it gets.
All American Hops, Mosaic, the first daughter of Citra and Nugget, tends to be a winner.
Marg was hungry, I suppose after the wee pot of Chilli, it was dinner time. Fish & Chips for Marg, Buffalo Wings for Hector.
Always better than pizza or burger, and a vast improvement over what Dr. Stan ate back in 2018.
Sat in a room off, one always wonders why staff lead you to a certain locus, we were well looked after. A top rated Juicy IPA / NEIPA served at Pike, yesterday I had not anticipated this, now we know.
Cloudburst Brewing, for the final time, and a decent Ginger Beer for Marg. Frustratingly, there was no more Two Player Mode. It was available in a Can four-pack, I might have considered a single, nope. The serving Doris did not impress. She could have split a four-pack, she could have changed the keg, the classic useless girlie.
Please Wait To Be Seated at 6.9% captured the atmosphere, everything on her terms. A Hazy IPA with the expected milkshake haze, this was sharp tasting on the palate. With a relatively high IBU of 50, not a surprise. East coast meets West? It did settle but in no way as good as Two Player Mode. Vista and Citra were the hops.
Perhaps a disappointing end to my final Cloudburst visit, but let’s take stock. Four visits in total, I shall never again visit a US brewery this often. It also confirms that Belltown is a good district to inhabit.
There was a final venue which had caught the eye over the last few days. Locust Cider Market Place serves Bier and Cider.
Marg had the 5.0% Juicy Peach Cider, this was to her liking. For Hector, his last ever Bier in Washington.
Enchantments (Icicle Brewing Co., Leavenworth WA) at 6.9% was soft on the palate, undemanding for the abv, worryingly so? Hydra, Citra and Mosaic hops, I could have had another, but it was time to draw a line under Seattle.
Tomorrow Las Vegas NV.
The breweries, bar and cafes visited today:
The Pike Brewing Company – 1415 1st Ave, Seattle, WA 98101
Cloudburst Brewing – 2116 Western Ave, Seattle, WA 98121
Locust Cider Market Place – 2003 Western Ave Suite 110C, Seattle, WA 98121
Gelatiamo – 1400 3rd Ave, Seattle, WA 98101
Wings Cafe – 9404 E Marginal Wy S, Seattle, WA 98108
Back to : Seattle WA Homepage
Back to : San Francisco CA Days 46 – 49
Continue to : Las Vegas NV Days 54 – 57
May the fourth, as the Americans like to call it, the dressing up parade was cancelled. A TV channel informed us that today’s 9
Six blocks north-ish, passing Union Square, then one and a bit blocks west, spotting the vagrant was not difficult. Who else would be on the street in this downpour? 
Maßlogiskeit in Maßen, nobody had got it yet. Finally, two people understood the motto of Le Tour du Monde en 80 Jours. Even translated to English, I still don’t think Marg does. Obscure, moi? I definitely did not want everyone we met reading it aloud in English. Roll on 
Having already done – the beach – I headed towards the first brewery of the day – 
Had I got a Bier it would have been a most uncomfortable drinking experience. Better to leave, at least I had confirmed this place had survived, my favourite 
Behold the pier for the Alcatraz ferry. Two tickets were booked for Tuesday, hopefully more clement than today.
Photos of not the Golden Gate were secured, as ever Marg was looking for anything in the water that showed signs of life. 
Rain has been the curse of many a day on this trip, and it was back with a vengeance. No sooner had an Asian chap taken our photos than another massive downpour forced us to retreat indoors. 
Embarcadero is way longer than I remembered. I knew 
With a clear blue sky, it was time to head inland and discover what the new had to offer. The BART took us five stops from Embarcadero to Church Street. From there it was a short walk to Wilkommen by Black Hammer Brewing Company. 
This Bierhaus was attempting to capture the feeling of being in a Deutche Bierhalle, without having the acreage. Multiple taps, but only five on. Hardly acceptable on a Saturday.
It was a fifteen minute walk, mostly flat, to 
Hector was not last out of
Conveniently, around the corner was the multi-tap bar – The Crafty Fox Alehouse – a proper pub. We took seats at the far end of the bar, a tactic that worked well at Suzie Wong’s Hideaway in
Meanwhile, Fargal was annotating Marg’s paper map with suggestions for walks and ice-cream. Whose trip is this? Some new Bier places I had spotted were evaluated, it looks as though we might be heading further west than anticipated. But on another day. Fargal was good company, it broke the monotony of just the two of us as we are scheduled to be for another couple of weeks.
A five Bier day, and US pints at best, not a huge intake. Time to plot the route home.
A wild Saturday night in 
Once again, there was no great desire to go out early. With a blue sky, today felt like a good day to visit Golden Gate Bridge. The Fargal nominated Golden Gate Park would mean going west also. The opperchancity of another Curry fell into my lap. I received a – Stop Press – from Curryspondent Bill. With Brothers everywhere, he had been trying to convince me that the best Curry to be had was across in Berkley/Oakland. However, – 
How many photos does one take in the digital age? As many as necessary until – the one – is captured. 
Bus 28 to Judah and 19
Five Rivers Indian Cuisine 
Having done Fargal’s ice-cream, it was time for Fargal’s park. Golden Gate Park is quite a bit south of the Bridge. A decidedly linear park, it runs east-west. It took some time to ascertain which were roads and which were paths on Google Maps. The Botanical Garden was Marg’s first objective. It was closed. Late Sunday afternoon, who goes to a park on a Sunday? 
We took in some of the music at the impressive bandstand. The atmosphere was heavily polluted with the smoke of a certain, now legal, substance which we have been encountering since arriving in 
Woods Lowside is another taproom for Woods Beer & Wine Company, the brewery is to the east towards the Mission District. 
Dry Cider Sonoma Blend at 8.5% totally hit the spot. This may well have been the driest Cider ever. Sensibly, there was only the one.
I had to approach Mr. Popular, he confirmed the fuzzy photo was of our barman this evening, hence the photo. 
Whilst 
Today, Alcatraz, however, the sea lions at Pier 39 were probably just as interesting for Marg. 
Marg was hungry. The fruit stall was the first stop. Having walked the length of Pier 39, which felt like a theme from an imaginary western, we chose another Boudin Bakery outlet for brunch. 
Established as a prison in 1934, Al Capone, an early guest, completed only 4.5 years of his life sentence on this island before syphilitic brain damage saw him transferred to another penitentiary. Charming as Burt Lancaster may have potraid the charcter, Stroud was not a pleasant chap.
The exterior photos captured Golden Gate Bridge in the distance plus the nearby mainland. So near, yet so far. Cold water, no chance of surviving the swim, they say. 
Back on dry land, Colt Tower, possibly 
Hector was hungry. 
There may have been no laurel or hearty welcome, but after waiting an extraordinary amount of time, the required photo was captured. Another classic example of people not being aware of what is happening around them. 
Magnolia Brewing
It was a few blocks north to brewery #2, 
Whilst Marg was out for her morning exercise, where awareness and confidence had taken her as far as Embarcadero, the Hector was considering the next flight. Alaska Airlines once again will not permit an on-line check-in. I did find a chat link on their app and so engaged an agent. The full story of our being ripped off at 
Having spotted Aquarium of the Bay on previous visits to Fisherman’s Wharf – Pier 39, Marg was not for leaving 
Bernal Heights, suitably high and the roads decidedly steep. Whilst the driver negotiated obstacles, Marg and Hector were treated to details of the intimate lifestyle of three young ladies. Loud voices, no shame, the American way. 
Marg was hungry. A portion of three Fish Tacos made Hector’s Buffalo Wings look a bit insignificant. It was a miracle that we secured these. The bar at Hotel Adagio was full of suits, seating was minimal. A high table was offered by the chap who served us initially, he disappeared and we relocated to a more comfortable locus. In keeping with our bus journey, a chap was regaling the entire bar with details of his life that we had no interest in. I pity his lady collleague who had to hear all this, and do the noddies. 
And so for the final Bier in 
Which ever way one wishes to track them, this is the halfway point of our – Around The World In 80 Days. Flying across the Pacific Ocean, better done in two parts. 
There was a sense of relief as land was spotted, the longest flight the Hector has made across open water. What was taken to be Kalaeloa Airport, adjacent to Nimitz Beach, was flown over as we approached Daniel K. Inouye International Airport. 21.3ºN, we’re back in the tropics, no summer or winter, just the matter of sporadic rainfall. Too much Geography, and if anyone has spotted the pun above, apologies. 
Hotel Ala Moana Honolulu was chosen for two reasons. Firstly, Waikiki is walkable to the south and east whilst the interesting locations for Bier lie to the north and west, no need for travel cards. Also, this hotel is part of the Accor group. After many night in an Ibis, Silver status has been maintained, hopefully securing early check-in, a bonus. 
Off The Wall is a pour your own venue, as first encountered some years back in Riga, Latvija.
Two Hazys stood out in the array: 
With good advice from the waitress I managed to get a decent wad of meat, noodles and an accompanying broth. This may well have been the best Asian food I’d tasted since 
The walk to 
The chap behind the bar at 
As I said, the chap was excellent, realising I had travelled a long way to sample his Bier, a decent serving of the 6.9% 
Rise and shine! A beautiful day, a beautiful location, an ocean view. Marg was up and out for her morning exercise/constitutional, the Hector caught up with some writing. Indeed, last night the extensive lobby proved to be an excellent place to get some more done. Huge tables with power sockets, as if the need was anticipated. Ala Moana Honolulu is quite a hotel. 
The lunchtime deal permitted two coverings for the abundant Wings and free top ups. 
Heading south-east towards Waikiki, we crossed the Ala Wai Canal. This is the drain for the coastal plain which permitted the creation of the Waikiki Beach area. Passing Ala Wai Boat Harbor, the wealth of the few was much apparent, highlighted further by the sheer volume of pukka hotels, way out of our price range.
Hilton Lagoon is surrounded by an inland artificial beach. A sheltered area, ideal for weans, move along. Onwards to Waikiki Beach. For the first time since 
With Diamond Head and the Zoo becoming ever closer, it was time to call a halt. Kalakaua Avenue, which had run parallel to our walk, was now open to the waterfront. Here was Waikiki proper, resembling any European seaside resort with a promenade. 
There was a small gathering of people at a statue. We stood, waiting for our turn to take photos at the Duke Paoa Kahanamoku Statue. Who he? The Hawaiian Olympic champion and father of surfing. Some didn’t understand – turn. 
Marg is not a huge fan of cheesecake but was surprisingly keen to try. As we reached this source of big calories so the local taproom for Maui Brewing was spotted across the street. That was the rest of the afternoon taken care of. 
OMG, a 7.0% Fruited Hazy IPA was reminiscent of AleBrowar’s (Polska) El Fruto. Orange, mango and guava were reportedly present. Dry, bitter, a totally tropical taste, befitting of our locus. El Dorado, Citra Cryo and Mandarina hops were featured. 
There was only one Bier, it was too early to start a session, there are other places to visit. Heading home, northwards along Kalakaua Avenue, there were actually people walking on the side-walks, like they do in a proper city. This was a true – downtown – area with atmosphere, pedestrians, patrolling police cars. It was all happening here.
After sunset, we headed back along Kalakaua Avenue to 
808 Pale Ale 
A – dive bar – was how this was described. Located in a backlot off the main avenue, if 
There was more Bier, and why not? The Bier was great as was the atmosphere, wonderful service and two young ladies had just taken up the space on Marg’s right. One reminded me of another Julia, an F.P. From the 1980s. I sent Fiona, her sister, the photo to see if she spotted the uncanny resemblance, of course we are all older now. 
Brewery, brewery taproom, bar and restaurants visited today:
A visit to Pearl Harbor on my birthday was the plan from the outset. FYI, this – 
Cousin-Lisa, our driver for today, was parked outside already, we were to be the first pick-up. Cousin? We were all her family, good for tips. This meant we had to go round the houses to pick up the rest. 
The opperchancity to visit the USS Bowfin, an American submarine was considered. Spending another $40.00 and rushing the experience was dismissed. We did have a look at the museum, until it was time, we would return after the boat excursion. 
The narrative here cannot be what it was originally. There was an acceptance that the 
Prior to boarding the boat to the USS Arizona, a National Park ranger briefed us before we watched a short movie. Nothing here I didn’t know already except the answer to the question nobody else asks?
I got my photo as we approached the white concrete and steel construction. Our boatload had to wait our turn to disembark. 
The commemoration wall for the fallen has them listed, alphabetically, not by rank, religion, or colour. For Hector, one family name stood out.
The City Tour, the price of our ticket had to be justified. North of the coastal plane lies Punchbowl Crater and the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, the burial site honouring the veterans of four wars. Unable to stop and so alighting impossible, it was like hovering at zero feet. 
With a US election later this year, it was poignant when we passed Barack Obamas’s primary school. Driving along South King Street and Queen Street, we were retracing the route of the airport bus. We were about to establish the importance of the historic buildings we had passed two days ago. 
We were permitted to alight at Iolani Palace, once the home of Hawaii’s final monarchs. 
Some of the architecture was impressively bizarre. Hector’s birthday 
Combining coffee and it being Bier o’clock led us to the nearby Yard House which claims to have the largest selection of Bier on tap – in the World! So more than the hundred or so at 
This place was stowed, so many people drinking and eating late afternoon. As we were not eating, it was seats at the bar, no bad thing. One stool at the corner of the bar was available, another was fetched and squeezed in. An adjacent couple were finishing their bar meal.
Marg secured her coffee, Hector studied the Bier list. Lots of the bleeding obvious is always the problem, little in the way of exotic. The Yard House (Escondido CA) Hazy IPA at 6.9% was suitably hazy but tasted so bog standard. El Dorado and Cascade hops. 
We took our – usual spot – at the bar in – our local. 
It was a chap serving tonight, consequently, Marg’s Baileys shrank in measure, the Hector was not served his Rad Sauce in an iced glass. In time, I asked for one, and was duly charged for doing so. 
Hopefully, last night was the last we’ll see of rain in 
We took another route to Waikiki this afternoon, crossing the Ala Wai Canal on the same bridge as two days but avoiding the beach. After 
Thereafter, it was a case of trying to walk parallel to 
The US built M24 arrived in the last year of WW2, fast but under-armoured and under-gunned. Had US tank designers not heard of the T34? Needless to say, it didn’t last long on the front line, but did appear in Korea where it wasn’t up against much. The M24 has appeared in many a movie, standing in for the Sherman in The Battle of The Bulge. As for the Japanese light tank on display, the less said the better. 
As we walked along the Prom at Waikiki Beach it became clear that there was something brewing. Lei Day, people were flocking to Sans Souci State Recreational Park for a gathering. At any other time, we would have gone to investigate, but having started early, the scheduled events for – day of garlands – was drawing to a close. We were on a mission. 
It all started well, the flamingoes in their pond, quite scenic, but nothing we hadn’t seen in our mini zoo visits in both 
Things then went rapidly downhill.
Giraffes are Marg’s favourite animal, at least they couldn’t hide. The bird cage may have contained some exotic species, but get a grip, we’re in The Tropics, there were as many birds freeloading outwith the cages. In fact, I would challenge the owners to admit that the visiting wildlife outnumbered the captured. We paid money for this. Having walked many kilometres by this stage, our thirst need quenched. Plantation Cafe had closed already. Not since Calderpark Zoo (Glasgow, Scotland) c1986 have I seen such an array of tired exhibits. Calderpark closed soon after. I add the zoo map to highlight the many animals not seen today.
Hector’s sense of humour had been tested to the limits. It was approaching Bier o’clock and there are no breweries on this side of town. Growler Hawaii, located at the terminus of the Ala Wai Canal, was a ten minute walk, but not in the direction of home. Multi-taps reported, there should be something. There was something else. Two doors down, Hawaii Cat Cafe. 
Having worked at many a Bier Festival, I know one can only serve what is on. I do object to smart-ass bar staff who claim their Bier is the best when it’s clearly not in the style asked for. 
Honolulu Beerworks
We walked past an empty looking 
The exterior of 
Seventeen of the twenty taps were in use. Of these there was a choice of four Hazys. Make that three, 
Christopher was our waiter this evening. Boy was he good. As I posted our whereabouts on a certain social medium, so it was established that a fellow CAMRA acquaintance back home had been served by the same chap. 
Whilst there has been Bier on almost every day of this trip, some more than others, tonight must remain a standout. Nights where I have managed to get my feet under the table to this extent and sample a range of Bier from a board, have been few. Great Bier, food, service, and a t-shirt on offer was at a decent standard, albeit tie-dye. Hector was not quite last out. 
Back to Pearl Harbor, now that we know the lie of the land, no tour company necessary. The intention was to visit both USS Missouri and Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum. There was a slow start to the day, and food was required before we set off. 
Heading back to where it all began, we crossed the bridge from the hotel to Ala Moana Center. Finding our way in through the upper level car park was no longer an issue, getting one’s bearings on the way out, another matter.
Down in the basement market eatery, Marg decided The Sunrise Shack would provide brunch. Hector chose well, the Tropical Bowl being full of swallowable delights, and lots of them. 
A causeway connects Ford Island to the mainland, back on military territory, the civilian driver was not as fractious as the Navy Doris on the boat to USS Arizona. 
USS Missouri was commissioned n 1944. The last US battleship built, Missouri was mothballed in 1955 for some thirty years, before being recommissioned for a few years to take part in the Gulf War. Many rooms hence contained desktop computers and terminals from the 1980s. 
USS Missouri has massive gun batteries fore and aft. These must have caused damage when called into action. However, ‘planes and aircraft carriers win wars, not behemoths such as this battleship. 
Still, this was history. It was on the quarter deck of this mighty vessel that the Japanese signed the surrender notice officially bringing WW2 to a close. The US involvement in WW2 began at Pearl Harbor, that this ship has its resting place here and not San Diego makes the entire visit all the more poignant. 
Deep into the bowels of the ship as we could get, the twenty minute warning to – get aff – was announced over the tannoy. Up is out, Marg had other ideas. We became separated, she opened a door that the Hector daren’t. I had quite a following by the time we reached fresh air. Now to find Marg. 
Marg was hungry. It couldn’t be Curry, we’ve had Pizza and Asian, Chicken Wings, the safe fallback. Buffalo Wild Wings impressed in visit #1, so back we went. 
Our serving chap was useless, distracted. Marg had the salad. The potato wedges that had impressed so much on Sunday did not. The abundant wings were less so today, and we were paying way more being a peak time. Beware. 
With an early afternoon flight, there was no horribly early rise this morning. Checking out of Ala Moana hotel there was the knowledge that it would be a while before we stayed in comparable accommodation. This was plush and points had been earned towards future Ibis hotels in Europe. 
Unable to check-in online, we presented at the Alaska Airlines desk. Whilst our One World ticket was recognised in their system, our entitlement to two 23kg check-in bags each was not. As it happens we had one bag each. The wee girl wanted to charge us $70.00 to check in our bags. Hector was not having this, and asked for her supervisor. The song remained the same. Pay up or don’t fly, the latter not an option. The card reader didn’t work, try again. $80.00 was taken from my card. Hector knows how to haggle. I would later realise that I had been charged twice. 
In the departure hall, the Hector spent the wait establishing a complaint with Alaska Airlines head office. Something resembling food was had in one of the few outlets, nachos, not great. 
Alaska Airlines flight 876 departed on time at 13.59. A Boeing 737-Max, oh yeh, two engines across the Pacific Ocean. What could possibly go wrong?
No Bier today, nobody took the hint, but then the Hector hardly pitched it loudly. One glass of red, wine, does that count as – teetotal? My first bar job at Wilson’s Bar (Partick, Glasgow Scotland) had a barmaid who announced she was – teetotal – because for a week she drank sherry instead of vodka, – by the way.
Then there’s the lady who drank Waitemata every day and lived to one hundred. Or two hundred, in 
Bier was resisted despite more Monteith’s being available. I decided to leave the memory of my most southerly Bier intact.
We had arrived in two vehicles, Steve with the weans who had magically appeared as if a bell had been rung. Alison had driven Marg and I to Riverhead, after lunch she didn’t take the hint when I pointed out that Hallertau Brewery was incredibly close to our destination. Given the name, the Bier would have been traditional Deutsche Bier, presumably.
I sat in what had become – my spot – for the afternoon. In addition to catching up with some Bier-Traveller, I was still researching whether our visa for the 
Malaysian, cuisine, how does this differ from Chinese? It all looks the same, it all tastes the same. Surely, the wholesalers stock all the same sauces? Stir-fry, and chuck a sauce on top, hey presto! The avoidance of the – sweet red chilli sauce – is the Hector priority. Beef with BIG onions and capsicum was Hector’s main course, how ironic. The bowl of Hot &Sour Soup may have been the best ever encountered, if not just for the sheer volume. One glass of red wine and Marg did not play the – dessert – card.
Aiming to be at the airport for 14.00, there was a final brunch. With two flights ahead, three more meals were anticipated, we wouldn’t go hungry. 
There was a farewell photo taken at the pool. The Hector congratulates himself on not having been conned i
Flight QF 146 to Sydney, 16.05 – 17.50, a three hour flight, a two hour time difference. We were flying west which somehow does not go against the rules of our One World ticket where flying in one direction only is the requirement.
I watched the sunrise, the dawn of a new day for us, maybe it wasn’t.
Bus 29 to 
Mark & Jude’s domicile is situated to the east of Musselburgh and south of Portobello. They share a home with Alfie, the craziest dog ever encountered. Alfie doesn’t bark, he squeaks. I could tell Marg was going to become attached.
Bags dumped, Mark drove us into 
Jude returned from work, both she and Mark are destined to work for more years, so it goes. Marg got on a washing, it’s four days since 
Marg went out for her ritual walk-come-run. Despite the simplicity of the sea being downhill, she managed to end up at St Clair, another beach where Mark had planned to take us for brunch.
In keeping with the extremes of relief, up to Signal Hill, aka – The Lookout. A bit of Edinburgh Rock had made its way here.
From here we could see the entire 
Looking down on the fjord-like inlet from the rounded hilltops did feel a bit familiar, the Arrochar Alps, Loch Long, but on a much grander scale. 
Sea Lions and possibly Penguins were next on the agenda. It was quite a drive to Aramoana Beach, an area of deposition on the northern extremity of the fjord. Spits are aplenty on the 
The sea lions were found sporadically, minding their own business, the birds, another matter. Marg is always pointing out the bird-life wherever we go. The Hector sees landscapes not minutiae, however, today there was no escaping the ornithological world. 
Bier o’clock
Emerson’s Brewery
Emerson’s
And we did, in the interim, Jude was fetched, but not before Alfie got in on the act.
Today, Taiaroa Head which lies directly across the inlet from Aramoana, visited yesterday. Consequently, I had photos of our objective before setting off.
How high can one get? Lots of hills, steep slopes, I know that Mark takes great care behind the wheel, however there was an incident. Slowing down to let the car in front turn right off the main road, a smart ass decided to overtake both of us. Cue an oncoming car, disaster was imminent. Fortunately, it was Mark’s careful driving and anticipation which saved the day. The offending driver was able to cut in between us and the car going right. Three cars, we were stationary, the other three drivers and passengers could have been hospitalised. Mark deserved a medal, not one moment of acknowledgment, or possibly awareness that their skins had been saved. We passed the villain on our return, Mark reckoned he had been in a hurry to catch the ferry at Portobello. A reminder, Mark’s home is metres east of Musselburgh.
Penguins? There was another mention of Penguins, but by day they’re all at sea. Nevertheless, Marg went down towards the bay just in case. Why go down to come back up? Instead, Mark and Hector went up to Fort Taiaroa.
At Fort Taiaroa people pay to see albatross and/or attend seminars. We did birds yesterday. Of more interest to Hector was the concealed cannon known as the – Disappearing Gun. This elaborate mechanism protected the solitary piece of artillery from the elements. How long it would have lasted against an invading Japanese flotilla we shall never know.
The train station had ben seen previously in passing, quite a building. The Octagon is the focal point of the city. Our attempts at capturing decent photos in the dusk were thwarted by the ubiquitous populous which appear to be taking over both 
Armed with an array of SLRs, the Chinese got their photos but were oblivious to anyone else trying to secure the same. The culprits are therefore featured.
Good George Brewing Co. (Frankton, Hamilton, New Zealand) have five main outlets across the country plus an association with the Craft Beer and Kitchen restaurant chain. Fog City, a Hazy IPA at 5.8% proved to be a worthwhile choice. A good haze and lots of bubbles, but not too gassy, this had a big hop hit. Amarillo, Mosaic and Citra featured as well as the declared lactose. The body matched the abv, definitely worth having. If 
We were here to dine. Hector fancied a steak, it has been a while. Normally, steak is a meal had best at home. Rarely cooked as I like it, and as for the price of steak in a restaurant, really? Marg chose a modest Fish and Chips, Hector relayed how a steak should be cooked. Alarm!
A brewery from Wanaka (New Zealand) called – b.effect – produce Ridgeline, a Hazy IPA at 6.0%. Something had interrupted my usual photography and note-taking. With the Bier notes not saved, all I can say it was hazy, juicy, tropical, decent.
A fifteen minute walk saw us arrive at
There had to be an 
Yesterday featured a cliff top, today, a path along a cliff. Why does this trip keep involving high places? I had to stride out on my own in some parts, acrophobia, I cannot stand being near anyone when danger is sensed. 
The right foot is most certainly on the mend, not that 
As ever, Marg was on the hunt for wildlife, Still no Penguins though some splashes out to sea were reportedly them. Aye right. We all know Penguins live in the real Edinburgh, at the Zoo.
The appropriately named – West Coastin’ Hazy – at 5.5%, lived up to its description. A – Tropical Hazy IPA – this had the full haze and featured Mosaic, Galaxy and Wai-iti hops. Dry tasting, it definitely had – East Coast (USA) – notes. The most southerly, and furthest from home Bier, the Hector will ever drink.
Tonight, flight #10 of the trip, this time, back to 
more tropical. The evening flight meant we did not have to be at Momona Airport until after 17.00. 
As much a cafe as a restaurant, here was the b.effect – Ridgleline which I had two night ago at Albar.
Mark had mentioned the Duke of Wellington as being the must visit pub in
And so to the airport. Mark dropped us off, no £6.00 fee here a la Glasgow Airport. Hopefully we’ll see Mark and Jude in Scotland in the not too distant future. In the meantime, a BIG thank you.
One may be used to no frills when flying, but this is the national airline. My fifth and final NZ Airways flight, each time their plastic cup of water and dry nibble has been declined. Less than two hours to 
Alison was waiting once again in the arrival hall, and so back to Greenhithe. This was the first time in over over a month when I have walked into a room and recognised the bed. Home sweet home.
Another day, another flight: NZ5865 at 14.20 to 
On reaching a plain, a comparatively large settlement. Why live here at all?
Hotel 115, Cathedral Junction, this was the former tram depot, and the tourist tram still runs though it. Our first non Ibis, a decent hotel, and Cathedral Junction proved to be the ideal place to stay. 
We had half an hour to explore the surroundings, The other side of the depot gave way to New Regent Street, this was stepping back in time, quite a buzz.
Rebecca, Becks, was collecting us at 17.00, Another of Marg’s former charges, Becks was with us back in 2011, the year of the Christchurch Earthquake. Another catch-up.
After the customary addressing of the dog and sprog, We were duly fed and watered. We arrived with wine, but the Hector was not refusing Bier. Well, two out of three were not happening. I cannot believe people still buy the Bier with the same name as the virus which kept us prisoners for so long. An as yet untried Panhead was much appreciated.
Having been driven out of the city last night, I had some awareness of what greater 
Having acquired the brochure for the Tram and seen the price for the day ticket, this was dismissed as being a – no-no. Hector had a plan, let’s walk the route, a figure of eight through down-town 
There are swathes of 
A few watering holes were spotted on our tour. Riverside Market featured a stand for Canterbury Brewers Collective, and also Curry. I studied the Bier list, then introduced myself at the Curry stall. OK, I might force myself to have a Bier with a Curry later in the week.
If there’s a 
Food being delivered by pneumatic tube was fun for the weans. This was only available at the tables around the wall. For once, Marg and Hector were not window dressing.
It came with a timer as well as the filter arrangement. Not a fan of filter coffee, this was worse. 
18.30, our scheduled meet up with Brine, another Kiwi who worked with Marg. We reached 
An upstairs venue, an elevator was involved. I had checked the access out earlier, or so I thought. I had spotted the lane entrance, not the elaborate process of gaining entry thereafter. The heavy wooden door was manned, or – womanned. 
With Brine the designated driver, Nick and Hector were set to have a session. Four Biers on the board had potential, three were Fresh Hop
Mcleods Brewery (Waipu, New Zealand) has already appeared twice in these pages. Tonight the 802 #58, Hector had 802 #57 in 
Another release this week is Cone dip IPA at 6.0% (Duncans, Kapiti, New Zealand). NZIPA Fresh Hop was the given description. Gold, clear, not as intense as what had come before, the Riwaka hops still gave off a tropic fruitiness. A mellow, drink, one could happily have stayed with this if the previous two had not been on. Hector couldn’t find four to excite, surely?
Fresh Hop NZH-106 at 6.0% (Sawmill Brewery, Matakana, New Zealand) was classed as a Hazy IPA. The Kiwi brewers might be deliberately avoiding using – NEIPA – as a moniker. Again, released this week, yellow and only a slight haze, this had a huge hop hit. NZH-106 and Motueka hops, this was beautiful, quaffable.
I must thank Nick for making this the night it was. I may have heard enough about hockey on this trip already. More talk about Bier and Curry!
Bar, restaurant and cafes visited today:
Another day of walking, fortunately the right foot, had a rest in 
In Glasgow’s Botanic Gardens we have hot houses, here the opposite. I still cannot find a sink with a big enough sequence of draining to complement the one I took at 
It was warm enough for Marg to favour ice cream over coffee. The #1 choice venue was queued out the door. The same company have a branch on New Regent Street, another time.
Whilst enjoying the ice-cream I took in the array of Bier taps on the various food stands. If needs must, there could be a return.
Fresh Hop Waimea Hazy at 6.0% was listed as a NEIPA. It isn’t. The Waimea hops had been grown in Motueka, the brewers could have done with upping their usage. Gold, half hazy, remote from being a milkshake, this thin offering was piney too. This, if anything, this was a WCIPA.
Most tables were booked for – soon. A live band outside may have been encouraging the swarm. I’m sure the Bier list was better when I first popped in. I also thought this was where Dux was brewed, I still don’t know.
Basically a hamburger joint, Marg and I have not succumbed to eating them on this trip. Once again, a range of Craft Beer that bewilders. This was, in effect, a taproom for Beers by Bacon Bros, confused?
Marg had been super-indulgent today, Hector had his big afternoon/evening in 
It is the day of the 
Sarah Hughes was one of them! Pity her name was called before I could get the camera ready. But who knows, she may be in a shot somewhere.
Nevertheless, Marg got into cheering mode. She knows she could have gone out much earlier, but had chosen to await Hector surfacing. After last night? 
Time for Bier & Curry!
The Canterbury Brewers Collective was calling as was
Marg’s turn, she was keen to visit the Earthquake Museum. It was free to enter, so no complaints for Hector on a bus-man’s holiday. 
Marg sat and watched the whole video of interviews with people in the aftermath. Hector read about Montgomery Clift on his phone.
Running out of places, what could follow the Biers had here? Back to Little High Eatery. One of their outlets – El Fogon Grill – had something – in the style.
Hector was almost last out of Little High Eatery.
Now there was time to marvel at the suspended creatures.
The overhead bin did not take my bag, the thought of such a long flight with this at my feet…
A cement works dominated the view on approach, and again a few minutes later, and once more. The pilot was making a meal of it.
I had never met Claire before today, Marg had when she was over in 
Yes, Julia gets another mention. Julia, who we spent three nights with in 
The apartment was opposite Tahunanui Beach, a few minutes drive south of
Dinner, it had to be Curry. Julia has spoken oft about 
As luck would have it, The Free House is directly across the back from 
At my time of being served I asked:
Fresh April ’24 (Garage Project, Wellington, New Zealand) at 7.0%, had the full milkshake haze, the body was sound without being syrupy. 
Hector had his Bier with 
Two Thumb Brewing – was today’s objective, a brewery in Nelson. There was a full day’s itinerary before then.
Marg had returned from her morning run full of how wonderful the beach is. She had sneaked in a coffee at Raglan’s, a chap had engaged her. All was well, but not until Hector too had ben led along the beach.
The cathedral, the cathedral steps. A photo. No way was Hector climbing them, enough already.
A Brewery Tap, the Brewery is in Christchurch. There was something Hazy, and I liked the atmosphere, laters.
Before we knew it, two chaps had table-hopped us. One was particularly known to Julia, photos sent to 
Otto – on looking up this Bier, a picture of the Can popped up. The Bier is named after – Otto – the inflatable autopilot in Airplane!
Supa Hazy (Two Thumb Brewing Co., Christchurch, New Zealand) at 8.0%, an IIPA!
We arrived around 13.00. The brew-plant was at the rear of the site. There was a 
Before Bier, the sacred photo. We had passed some hop fields en route, but here was the opperchancity to caress live Motueka hops. The World must suffer.
Hazy IPA at 5.8%, the haze was there, the body was there, juicy too, but a slight sharpness on the palate was taking its toll. The hops were not for being identified, even after I went up to the girl pouring, who gave me the flyer.
With the car at our disposal, the must-do was the drive to the beach at Kaiteriterei which was some way beyond Riwaka. Motueka took a few minutes to drive through, Riwaka, blink and you’d miss it. I nearly blinked on the way back.
A comfortable walk along the sands, just as well the rain has abated. Plenty of photo opperchancities.
There was a pit-stop at the Waterfront Cafe. This shall be remembered for the family who, having finished their lunch sought Takeaway containers. A passing gull had other ideas. 
There had to be a Bier at source, in Riwaka. Hop Federation was located. Again, a dedicated Taproom for Takeaway only, lies adjacent to a hotel. Oh, look at that array of taps. East European chaps were manning the show. 
I found the address of the actual brewery, we headed along the road, another Takeaway only Taproom…but for 
Not only was the Hector determined to rub the noses today with Bier, there’s a Curry House in Motueka. It had to be done. 
McCashin’s Brewery is housed in the old cider house. 
New Zealand Airways were stingy on the flight down to 
Arriving at 
Fork & Brewer,
The company to my left was mixed, but there was one loud female who could probably be heard back in 
We did pass a Curry Cafe in the style I found in both 
Still raining, still a Friday night, I didn’t feel like straying far in the darkness. Was the Brian stopping? The Malthouse was chosen.
Behold, a big room with the bar on the right as one enters, high tables opposite the bar, and a room full of Kiwis to the back. They too were loud, but nobody was resonating. On purchasaing the drinks, I assumed Marg had headed back there. Nope, there she was, front of the house. 
802 #67 Unfiletered IPA (McLeod’s Brewery, New Zealand) at 6.8% was the aggressive follow-up to
Nick at 
I didn’t fancy any more Bier, and so back to the hotel. Get some writing done.
Brewery, bar and restaurant visited today:
Marg was out running along the harbour. Hector spent the late morning in his now claimed spot, a seat at the window with a power cable. Still the rain shows no sign of mercy, still the right foot hurts from a standing start, but maybe less so.
Indian Alley
Bottomless Coffee – it said on the menu my type of coffee. Doris made a fresh batch, she said I wasn’t leaving until I finished it. The place was empty, more or less, when we arrived. By the time we departed, every table was occupied, even the locals had had enough of the rain.
We had been strongly advised to visit Te Papa. Marg and Hector are not big on museums, this turned out to be a museum with – BIG – exhibits. Free to enter, even better.
Earthquakes and Volcanoes, what else do I need to know about these having taught all about them for thirty four years? There was a hut that simulated an earthquake. Having experienced a few in real life, no thanks. Who remembers the Glasgow Earthquake of 1979? OK, it was minor. Turkey was once hit by a major one the day after Marg and Hector left. 
Every sign in 
A WW2 battle fought with WW1 tactics. Churchill. I had seen nothing like the larger than life characters on display. The detail is magnificent. Toy soldiers these were not. It wasn’t toy soldiers who had to face the Turkish machine guns. Who gave the Turks machine guns?
Bier o’clock, and we weren’t straying far.
Panhead Custom Ales, whos Rat Rod had been enjoyed nights back at The Malt (Auckland), have an outlet on Tory Street. Having given this street a miss earlier it was time to embrace it.
It was time for Curry, at last.
The band came on, not too loud, some good sounds. The female vocalist and the horn player stood out. From our lack of vantage, it took time to establish just how many females were on stage. Our first live music in 
The sun was shining, it puts a different perspective on the day. Part of our Ibis welcome was a pair of Kit-Kats. I took one downstairs with me to what I had claimed as my spot: a window armchair with power sockets behind. More writing whilst Marg went out exploring/exercising. This may well be the first Nestlé product I have knowingly consumed in some forty years. The company is on my Blacklist. How old was the Kit-Kat? Maybe from the same batch I last ate from. It would soon have its revenge. 
Back on Lambton Quay, into an arcade – Cable Car Lane – behold, the funicular. NZ$11.00 return, no senior discount. After – The Blue Mountains, it looked a bit tame, and short. Ah, some cosmic lighting effects in the tunnels. It’s for the children. 
Another museum? Like Te Papa, free, my kind of museum. 
Some take the funicular up then walk down through the gardens. Having bought the return, no way, Pedro. We did the top of the park, more photos and suddenly the Kit-Kat was seeking payback. Wonderfully clean public facilities, just like what we don’t have back home. 
Mount Victoria – was on the list of places of interest. Note I have not added this to my list. OK, traditional 
Both my Hazys were aff. Hector wasn’t for staying. That did not go down well. The initial choice of seat was too close to the open door. The second was right under a heater. The third involved having to ask a chap if we could join him. I wonder what he thought when we left moments later. 
Having studied the array, the choice was Occasional (?) (Martinborough Brewery, South Wairapapa, Wellington, New Zealand), an APA, the pump clip gave away no more. 
I don’t think I was last out of Featherston, but would willingly have been so. Leuven had the tried and tested, so bog standard Belgian fayre. A Blond was not going to follow the owner which had just preceded it. Back to Sandman (Panhead), tried and tested. A come-down, back to reality, but this brewery was the favourite until ninety minutes previous. Marg had Lindemaan’s Kriek, again. Can the funds support such extravagances? 
With a not too early rise in the morning, and in the hope of an uninterrupted night’s sleep, I took the netbook down to my spot.
An Ibis with a choice from Panhead, and one I still hadn’t had. Rolling Stone – Nayslayer at 6.5%, a Pacific IPA, whatever that is. A NZ-IPA with Nectaron, Eclipse, Nelson Sauvin, the taste was more West Coast despite the gold, muddy haze. This was a good Bier.
Qantas Flight QF3, departing from 
Big chunks, bigger, and regular in shape, had been cooked in Ras El Hanout, Moroccan Spice. Thereafter the pieces were rolled in Dukkah Herb Mix. Dukkah, I had never heard of it, a wonderful blend that will make an appearance in Blighty, one day.
The calendar. Every year, Hector makes a calendar of Marg and Hector’s trips. One has been posted to 
Everyone was up earlier than Hector, it had ben a late night. Self respect remained in place after securing the draw. Marg was in the pool, as one would predict. How cold was the water? No idea, didn’t even test it.
Paddling, aye right.
Rangitoto Island would be visible throughout the drive. A volcano, not expected to erupt again. However, Hector is in town. History suggests that if it will erupt again, April 29 will be the day.
SIM Cards, we had been in New Zealand for twenty four hours and were still dependent on Wi-Fi. Alison took us to the Westfield shopping centre, there the chap at One.NZ had two SIMs working in our respective phones in minutes. That should do us.
On arrival in the car park beneath the tower, we took the elevator up to the ground-floor then the escalator back down to the basement. From there, a dedicated elevator took us to the viewing level. On the ground floor, another dedicated elevator took us up to Orbit 360º Dining, a revolving restaurant on Level 52. There was an apron around the windows such that sitting there was not an issue, no acrophobia. 
In the dusk then darkness, the ever-changing view of Auckland created as sense of familiarity. I could just about work out which direction was Greenhithe. I couldn’t see any breweries from up here. 
Is the kitchen closed? – was raised at one point. No, it has just gone away. Oh, now is a good time to visit the facilities. The seating area rotated around the central hub. A new experience, and I hate to think what our entire night out costs. Thanks, Alison. 
Today was a big day for Hector and Marg in 
We set out, with Alison at the wheel once again, for our 14.00 Curry rendezvous at 
It is twenty three years since we last saw Charlie. Had he changed? Dramatically! If the restaurant hadn’t been empty, we may well have done the double take. Hector and Marg have not changed at all.
Once Charlie had consumed his legal quota, it was time for him to head. Amazing to meet up again after all this time. I must mention that I did take him to 
We arrived back at 
There was Bier, Darryn ordered food. Hector continued with 
Fear and Loathing in Mt Eden
This afternoon, a trip to 
Rat Rod (Panhead Custom Ales, Upper Hutt, New Zealand) a 6.5% NEIPA turned out to be pretty decent. Amarillo, Ekuanot Mosaic and Simcoe hops were present. This was a candidate for Best Bier had in NZ to date. Not that there have been many.
Louise arrived a few minutes after 19.30, twenty eight years since we last met, some people do not change. It was as if another – Fridge Night – had just resumed.
Alison had to listen to conversations about people she had never met. Again, this reinforced how right it was last night with Charlie and Darryn to meet separately. Amazing how the time flies, The Malt was empty by 21.00, signs of closing despite the advertised opening times. Do any New Zealanders stay up after 22.00?
Today we moved south to Pukekohe in the south of 
There was a brunch stop afore, back to the Willow Cafe. Having enjoyed Alison’s fried eggs on toast so much yesterday, I risked a repetition. Poached but dry, not the end of the World.
We were to meet Simon at his place of employment, Pukekohe Hill School. A mere five minutes in a school and Hector found himself in the Headmaster’s study. Those who recognise the memorabilia on display will recognise the significance Unbelievably, Simon told us of Kevin, the son of another long term colleague, who is also in Pukekohe as the coach of the local football club. Poor Kevin was in an A’ Level class of two with Lindsey, the most talented pupil the Hector ever taught. We both learned a lot that year.
En route, Simon pointed out the racecourse, soon not to be. The motor racing section has already been abandoned. Simon showed us his vintage VW Beetle, his pride and joy, also a restored caravan. He was busy through Lockdown.
Roast New Zealand Lamb, cooked with inserted Garlic and Thyme as the Hector was taught also. Again, minimal photography, one cannot, truly. Broccoli and potatoes featured, along with onions, major crops in this part of 
All were from 
Something Hazy at 5.9%, a Hazy IPA with the full on milkshake haze, but a darker gold. This time: Citra, Mosaic, El Dorado and Galaxy hops were in the mix. Three CANs, there was nothing markedly different between either. Maybe the first was closer to yesterday’s 
Early to bed, people have work in the morning. This appears to be the 
Simon and Andrea went off to work, early. Theirs was a half day before the start of the holidays. What’s a holiday? We were left with Simon’s car. There was a suggestion that we drive to the west coast before meeting up with Simon who would take us to the airport for our 15.00 flight.
The Qantas flight from 
The sun was shining, the temperature mid 20s but Hector was still in shoes, the right foot. The Bridge and Opera House could wait for tomorrow. We headed down to Darling Harbour. A Big Blue Sky welcome, this felt like the place to be, thanks to Ryno for picking this Ibis from the three I proposed.
They just happened to be here on their own yacht, I suppose I would be telling everyone too.
The main city streets were congested, with people on foot. Always on the look out for something – old – The Victoria Building – looked to be a fine piece of architecture. 
The covered market contains a – Paddy’s Market. Chinatown as such is minimal and lies across the street. The foremost Hunan restaurant in the area was closed, Easter Monday. There was a fallback –
This was 
Ryno had mentioned The Bavarian, a chain of bars serving Deutsche-Bier in which he had spent his formative years. This was tracked down, or up, in a mini-mall. Closed, Easter Monday. 
Darling Harbour by night, we had to see it. And so we strolled up the east side back towards our hotel. 
Marg had already captured photos of a famous bridge by the time Hector rose from slumber #2. This was not Hector’s #1 priority for the day, Curry at 
In for a penny, on seeing the ridiculous white chocolate cake, it had to be. To share, still the most expensive individual cake the Hector has ever purchased. One labours the point such that these moments are recorded for evermore.
It was finally safe to begin the day’s trek, no more rain forecast. Marg pointed out the open air cinema where people were expected to lie on double beds. Maybe in the height of summer. 
OK, 
Circular Quay is rectangular, still, this is the focal point of tourism, Bridge to the west, Opera House to the right, as one looks out to sea. The giant liner would depart, and soon be replaced by another. One wonders where they go?
The skyline looking landwards towards Circular Quay is dramatic, more photos required. 
At the head of the quay was a name the Hector recognised: 
Having walked out of the 
Hoppy Daze, a Hazy Pale Ale, at 5.6% was asked for, Hop Thief, an APA, at 5.8% was poured. Who wasn’t paying attention? On another day I would have taken the wrong Bier, not the end of the World. Sod it, I’m having what I want!
On passing a mock-up of an opal mine, I had to stop. Father brought an opal back from 
The rain was back. Is this how this trip is going to unfold? Hotel Sweeney’s was the next venue.
The ground floor at Sweeney’s is a Sports Bar. The first floor has a restaurant, the second a pool table and seating. It is quite a climb to the roof. Marg was leading the way, twice she stopped. Can you see the sky yet?
Dwarfed by surrounding buildings, the view was somewhat restricted, but we witnessed the sunset. Marg took seats at the end of a high table. There was cover, just. Hopefully the adjacent chaps would not set fire to anything that comes in small packets. Nicotine has been distinctly absent on this trip, to date.
The girls behind the bar were pouring Bier with great enthusiasm. It was the chap who highlighted the style the Hector sought. In the end, two from White Bay Beer Co., Rozelle, were the choices. Rozelle is a western suburb of 
Ta Da at 6.9% is a classic Hazy IPA / NEIPA with a full haze. Mosaic, Strata and Nelson Sauvin hops featured. With the required tropical juiciness, this is what we want.
On Middle Earth, another NEIPA at 6.2% had a slight tartness after Ta Da. Nectaron, Superdilic and Nelson Sauvin hops provided the pedigree. With the full haze, this was a decent Bier regardless.
Having done 
At the Tourist Information, the queue was but a handful when we joined it, a mile long when we had finished. Why was my new Australian phone number not being recognised? Spam callers are finding me no problem.
Rossini At The Quay – the menu looked OK. Marg had her usual yoghurt and granola. Hector ordered – pork sausages with eggs. Poached eggs arrived. Hector never orders poached eggs. They were dry, not the dripping wet poached eggs served to me in the formative years. My first poached egg since York, at Betty’s. That was on top of Kedgeree, yum.
Manly, Ferry #1, tap on with the credit card, tap off, simples. Why are cities still using Oyster equivalents?
Oh, it’s 
There was the occasional reminder of what might have been: 
Manly Wharf, to the left or to the right? 
With buildings to the right, Hector led Marg to the left. A coastline walk as it turned out cutting through a restaurant. But not before Marg insisted on a – selfie. Hector subsequently produced a tripod. Compare, contrast.
In the year 2000, Hector put a toe in the Pacific at Venice Beach, Los Angeles. Today, a finger in the South Pacific. Cold water, Bali-hai!
A long sandy beach, reminiscent of 
We had passed New Brighton Hotel, Taproom caught the eye. No Bier of interest, maybe just as well. The grand colonial style building had peeps on terraces above us. 
What a place. Larger than many a micro, there was ample seating area. The promised NEIPA was available.
The step count was enhanced as we headed to 
Featuring Citra, Galaxy, and Mosaic hops, this was truly enjoyable Bier, why was I leaving? Our stay was extended when one of the two chaps came over to check on our enjoyment. Brenton, the Brewer, accepted a Bier-Traveller – Calling Card – well it is in tiny writing on the back of the Curry-Heute – Calling Card. 
Bier aside, this turned into a memorable visit. Brenton, the Brewer, spent a considerable time with us, talking – Bier. This is when Marg’s encyclopaedic knowledge of all the Breweries in all the World pays dividends. Marg can talk, at length about
Leaving was a case of tearing oneself away, The McVittie Arms could well have been declared. Brookvale, we were in the sticks and yet we had only scratched the surface We headed up the hill to catch the bus back to Manly Wharf. B1, the direct bus running from Mona Vale to Wynyard passed us, no need for the ferry then. For once it’s quicker by the frequent boat. 
As the sun set we passed 
Back on dry land it was time for dinner. Harts Pub had been recommended, it was a few minutes walk from Circular Quay and uphill. 
The Bier was a Hazy Pale Ale at 5.0% from Six String Brewing, Erina, NSW. 
Our Ibis wasn’t good enough we had to be collected from Sofitel at Wynyard at 08.10. The Hector had checked last night with their reception that this was the spot. Two other parties arrived as we stood in the shelter. Rain, ominous. Maybe there was shelter across the street.
Featherdale Sydney, home to the largest collection of Australian animals in the World. This was a – Brucie Bonus – for Marg who has to stop and address every animal she encounters. At Featherdale, all was well. A bit damp, but all the animals were happy to see us. Especially the Koalas whose network had no doubt advised them of our arrival: look extra cute.
I am coming to realise that Dingoes always look smug, as if they know something we can only speculate about. Maybe Meryl knows too.
The highlight for Hector. 
One engaged with Marg, others were too busy eating, but the colours made them proud. 
Temperate Rainforest, after today there was no doubt as to how this natural vegetation acquired its name. 
Fifty minutes is the given time, we did it in little over thirty, with stops for photos. 
The Skyway controller said – it’s always like this – as we returned to base. The cafes at Scenic World were closing, everyone back on the bus.
The chap sitting in front of us on the bus had left something in a shop in Leura. On our unplanned return to Leura, it was closed.
The fleece was dumped, warmer clothes. At last (?) the 
Back at Vapiano, our chap was nowhere to be seen. The rush had passed, no problem getting a table. Order by QR code, pay in advance. Gratuity, for what? We haven’t been served yet.
A Carbonara variant for Marg, Polpette for Hector. I like my meatballs to have meat in them. I suspect Chef was taking liberties with the ratio of breadcrumbs to meat. I stopped eating because I was bored with this pasta dish as much as I was full already. The cheesy bread to start was maybe excessive.
Top Down, a 6.5% DDH NEIPA was just the Bier Hector sought. The full on haze was comfortably familiar. Smooth in the palate, dangerously easy to drink. What a fine array of hops: Riwaka, Citra Cryo, YQH 1320 (Yakima) and they were coming across well. 
All things Bier were discussed, another opperchancity for Marg to display here empirical knowledge of the best locations in Europe. Nick stood Hector a Bier and Marg a soft drink, yay!
Supersaturated
Blue skies! Rain, what rain? All was well with the World except Hector’s right foot. As soon as I stop walking it seizes, even at traffic lights. After a few minutes I could walk for 
By the time we were over the water, the acrophobia meter had swung far right. Those who know, understand, otherwise it can only be described as a paralysis coupled with terror. What I cannot source is – transferred acrophobia. If Marg goes close to the edge, the scenario is exactly the same. Even holding her phone over the rail to take photos triggers the feeling. 
How to cope:
At the mid-point, a passing couple decided our photo was being took. That was as close as I let Marg be through the entire crossing. Only one of 
Milsons Point, the far side, all was well again. Bunkers required. There was a Curry House nearby, but a return to 
Kirribilli Woodfire Kitchen has a good rating and was right in front of us. Here Sparkling Water was on the house. A la 
Ferry 4 (of 9), took us to Circular Quay which was nearer our chosen destination than the train would have taken us. A calm crossing, and I foresee no more boats on this sojourn.
In her morning runs, Marg had been to the Opera House and established that it is in fact more than one building. This was Hector’s first time in close proximity. 
Flower arches were spread around the park, weddings. Were these for today, or abandoned from yesterday? The Calyx appeared to be the focal point of the park, a floral display.
Closed for a private function. Ah well, next time in 
The only NEIPA available was
The 6.5% NEIPA – 
A pity the t-shirts were naff. But usually they are. Why have breweries not caught up with the Germans, embroidery, not transfers please. Hector was in a good place after two eight per-centers. 
There was an elaborate fireworks display to the south. Not for us, surely? Is this how Aussies bid farewell?
We still needed food, Georges Mediterranean Bar & Grill, a Greek restaurant for a change.
