Bier-Traveller

Day 12 – Monday, April 1^st

The Qantas flight from Brisbane down to Sydney felt decidedly short at under two hours. We did have to put our clocks forward as New South Wales operates in a different time zone from Queensland, which is directly due north. Time zones are usually determined by longitude, not latitude, but maybe length of day is sufficiently different in Sydney to justify this.

Our approach took us over Botany Bay, I’ve heard of that. With onboard WiFi, I was able to track one’s location.

Arriving in the Domestic Terminal meant progress through Sydney Airport was uncomplicated. We followed the signs for the train – T – and – T8 – the regular service took us to Wynyard passing though Circular Quay. We had our first glimpse of both the Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge.

Sydney, tick. We could have just gone back to the airport, but six days is the allocated stopover, one day more than most major cities can justify. With nobody to meet in Sydney, well maybe one chap, Marg had her agenda, Hector had his, compromise required. Who mentioned the zoo?

Ibis Barangaroo is just downhill from Wynyard towards Darling Harbour we would discover when we found the right exit from the station. Floor seven, the top floor again. I suppose the length of stay guarantees a high floor.

The sun was shining, the temperature mid 20s but Hector was still in shoes, the right foot.  The Bridge and Opera House could wait for tomorrow.  We headed down to Darling Harbour. A Big Blue Sky welcome, this felt like the place to be, thanks to Ryno for picking this Ibis from the three I proposed.

4 Pines Brewing, or one of their now seemingly ubiquitous brewpubs, was found with no effort, later. We weren’t even halfway round the Harbour when Marg declared it was time for Ice Cream.

The girls at Love Bomb Candy, behind the artwork at Cockle Wharf, were numerous, hence underemployed. Modest Ice Creams set us up for the rest of the Bay walk. Madame Tussaud’s, a Sea Life centre, Hector could sense the days in Sydney taking on a predictable path. Still no idea where the zoo is.

On the far side of Darling Harbour was a Sofitel and a decidedly more glamorous Ibis than ours. Kerching! – saved. The Aussies had a submarine, and a warship. The sailing ship reminded me of The Carrick which was berthed on the Clyde for decades between sinking and re-floating, once or twice.

A passing couple more or less insisted they take our photo with the Darling Harbour vista.

They just happened to be here on their own yacht, I suppose I would be telling everyone too.

The Australian flag must have know the date and was determined to fly the wrong way today.

The pedestrian bridge took us back across the bay and gave us height as we entered the city proper. The bridge would also give Marg a flat running route in the coming days.

The main city streets were congested, with people on foot. Always on the look out for something – old – The Victoria Building – looked to be a fine piece of architecture.

Town Hall was nothing special, the church-like building hidden behind the trees was left for another day. Chinatown lay to the south, after Chinatown-Singapore this had to be investigated.

The covered market contains a – Paddy’s Market. Chinatown as such is minimal and lies across the street. The foremost Hunan restaurant in the area was closed, Easter Monday. There was a fallback – Spice Paradise. Such was the impact made by the food served here, this Hunan restaurant deserves its own page in Bier-Traveller, only the second restaurant to achieve this status, the other being Brandy Ho’s in San Francisco, also Hunan.

This was the Spiciest food the Hector has ever encountered and eaten. Totally destroyed, there had to be pints of, anything. Sydney Brewery was a few minutes away, in Surry Hills. This was found to be an hotel, and was closed, Easter Monday. How can a hotel bar be closed for a religious holiday?

A few blocks north and back in the direction of home lies Surry Hills Hotel. A hotel bar, sports bar, a watering hole.

With no Bier of note and desperation being the situation, the Hector did not panic.

Cider, Bulmers, it disappeared as did the second. Marg was on the phone to somebody and failed to notice the short lived first pint.

Ryno had mentioned The Bavarian, a chain of bars serving Deutsche-Bier in which he had spent his formative years. This was tracked down, or up, in a mini-mall. Closed, Easter Monday.

Opposite lay Sydney Cidery which turned out to be another tap for Sydney Brewery. Hector would have his first Bier in Sydney and from Sydney Brewery.

Newfangled at 6.2%, a Hazy IPA / NEIPA was gold, hazy but lacked the hoped for hop flavours. Instead there was a sharpness associated with the West Coast.

Methinks too many breweries are jumping on the bandwagon, they need to be seen to have a NEIPA and so fudge it.

Sydney Cidery itself was a grand, flashy joint, again a hotel appeared to be incorporated, or was that the other way around?

Darling Harbour by night, we had to see it. And so we strolled up the east side back towards our hotel. Sporting Globe x4 Pines was open, oh no it wasn’t. Closing early, Easter Monday. Stop advertising yourself as being open when you’re not – I advised the bar person.

Next door at Henley’s, the same story. Just give me a Bier.

Bungalow 8 was playing ball. Despite a Bier sent all the way across the planet to annoy me, or had it been brewed locally, there was honourable Bier to be had. Having walked out of the James Squire brewpub in Brisbane, here was the same Bier.

150 Lashes at 4.2%, a Premium Pale Ale, was yellow with a slight haze. Thin and with no distinctive hops one assumes the Amarillo and Galaxy had just been waved over the glass.

Two Mainstream breweries, Hector needs to find better. Tomorrow, and Curry should start the day.

Breweries, brewery tap, restaurant and cafe visited:

Sydney Cidery – 389 Pitt St., Sydney NSW

Surry Hills Hotel – 198 Elisabeth Street, Sydney NSW 2000

Bungalow 8 – 3 Lime St., Sydney NSW, 2000

Spice Paradise – Shop 4/203-209 Thomas St., Haymarket, Sydney NSW 2000

Love Bomb Candy – Shop 104/105 Cockle Bay Wharf, Sydney NSW 2000

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Day 13 – Tuesday, April 2^nd

Marg had already captured photos of a famous bridge by the time Hector rose from slumber #2. This was not Hector’s #1 priority for the day, Curry at Lal Qila, a matter of metres from Ibis Barangaroo, was foremost in the mind.

Lal Qila was open as advertised but was only offering Buffet at lunchtime. Having verified the menu with Mein Host, we promised to return later. This meant some sort of snack was required.

Marg’s choice turned out to be more Takeaway than sit in. With the majority of seats outside and the rain not far away, we needed another venue. Bottega Coco was decidedly more salubrious.

In for a penny, on seeing the ridiculous white chocolate cake, it had to be. To share, still the most expensive individual cake the Hector has ever purchased. One labours the point such that these moments are recorded for evermore.

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With hot and cold running waitresses, we were well looked after. Sparkling water, coffee and comfort. The heavens decided to participate their surplus moisture, weeze weren’t going anywhere soon. At an adjacent table there was much noise and hilarity, they were on the wine, a bit early surely? Hector checked out the Bier taps, bog standard.

It was finally safe to begin the day’s trek, no more rain forecast. Marg pointed out the open air cinema where people were expected to lie on double beds. Maybe in the height of summer.

This area reminded me of Bradford’s Forster Square. There was a vast open space, with enough dereliction to suggest it had once been a major railway terminal. Tell me otherwise. As we rounded the corner separating the bays, Barangaroo Reserve gave way to The Rocks as Sydney’s most famous locus is identified.

There was a photo frenzy, Marg engaged a passing Japanese chap, not the best photographer in the World. What happened to the generation of Japanese who had cameras permanently around their necks and snapped everything? Ah, so!

Let’s face it, if you’ve been to Newcastle upon Tyne, you’ve already seen the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

OK, Sydney’s is longer, higher, and has probably been photographed more.

Circular Quay is rectangular, still, this is the focal point of tourism, Bridge to the west, Opera House to the right, as one looks out to sea. The giant liner would depart, and soon be replaced by another. One wonders where they go?

The skyline looking landwards towards Circular Quay is dramatic, more photos required.

At the head of the quay was a name the Hector recognised: James Squire, so not just a Brisbane-based microbrewery then.

Having walked out of the Brisbane outlet, a second chance was mooted, especially having had 150 Lashes last night. Ginger Beer for Marg, Hector studied the form.

Hoppy Daze, a Hazy Pale Ale, at 5.6% was asked for, Hop Thief, an APA, at 5.8% was poured. Who wasn’t paying attention? On another day I would have taken the wrong Bier, not the end of the World. Sod it, I’m having what I want!

Lesson, Daze does not equal Haze. This was little more than an ice-cold Lager with a bit more Malt.

But look at the view!

We headed south into the heart of Sydney. Navigating here is not a problem, the streets go the right way, no offset angles a la Brisbane. The Sun at noon is to the north. Still getting used to this.

On passing a mock-up of an opal mine, I had to stop. Father brought an opal back from Australia for Mother in the 1950s. Marg has inherited this pro tem. Arthritis restricted Father’s hand movements in later life. He found that gem tumbling was one hobby he could embrace. Father’s final years were spent in Australia, married to the gal he had met before Mother. Hector’s heritage takes on a new twist. Can I apply for Australian citizenship?

Lal Qila was both welcoming and wonderful. To find Curry of this quality here in Sydney was comforting and reinforced that truly authentic IndoPak Cuisine is way better than the Mainstream.

The rain was back. Is this how this trip is going to unfold? Hotel Sweeney’s was the next venue.

Untappd revealed that the Rooftop Bar at Hotel Sweeney’s had Craft Beer. Not only that, a choice of NEIPAs!

A hotel bar, as with yesterday’s Surry Hills Hotel, is this a throwback to the – six o’clock swill? What was the point of opening a pub if it had to close at 18.00 each day? Hotels could accommodate this.

The ground floor at Sweeney’s is a Sports Bar. The first floor has a restaurant, the second a pool table and seating. It is quite a climb to the roof. Marg was leading the way, twice she stopped. Can you see the sky yet?

Dwarfed by surrounding buildings, the view was somewhat restricted, but we witnessed the sunset. Marg took seats at the end of a high table. There was cover, just. Hopefully the adjacent chaps would not set fire to anything that comes in small packets. Nicotine has been distinctly absent on this trip, to date.

The girls behind the bar were pouring Bier with great enthusiasm. It was the chap who highlighted the style the Hector sought. In the end, two from White Bay Beer Co., Rozelle, were the choices. Rozelle is a western suburb of Sydney.

Ta Da at 6.9% is a classic Hazy IPA / NEIPA with a full haze. Mosaic, Strata and Nelson Sauvin hops featured. With the required tropical juiciness, this is what we want.

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The Aussies are loud. Why sit up here listening to this cacophony? Marg went down to the ground floor bar, Hector followed with the second Bier.

On Middle Earth, another NEIPA at 6.2% had a slight tartness after Ta Da. Nectaron, Superdilic and Nelson Sauvin hops provided the pedigree. With the full haze, this was a decent Bier regardless.

The ground floor had fewer customers, chaps drinking the bog standard, but they were loud too. Time to move on.

Darling Harbour had to be functioning as normal tonight, surely? 4 Pines, it keeps being mentioned, never open, finally, Hector had his 4 Pines Bier.

The Sporting Globe x 4 Pines is one of who knows how many brewing sites with this moniker?

Hazy Pale Ale at 6.0% featured Nectaron and Idaho 7 hops. Despite the haze, this yellow Bier was way too thin, again a slight tartness, but otherwise, fine.

A four Bier day, comfortable. Time to return to the Ibis and claim a spot in the lobby where words such as these can be recorded.

Breweries, and restaurants visited:

The Sporting Globe x 4 Pines – 22 , Sydney, NSW 2000

James Squire Brewery- The Squire’s Landing – Northern end of the Overseas Passenger Terminal, Circular Quay W, The Rocks, Sydney NSW 2000

Rooftop Bar, Hotel Sweeney’s – 236 Clarence St, Sydney NSW 2000

Bottega Coco – Shop 1 T3.01/300 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo, Sydney NSW 2000

Lal Qila Darling Harbour – 30 Lime St, Darling Harbour, Sydney NSW 2000

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Day 14 – Wednesday, April 3^rd

Having done Sydney yesterday, we were in the hands of the advisers. Caroline, the niece, had planted Manly in Marg’s mind. Manly, a beach, way more cool than visiting Bondi, we were told. As surfing was not an issue, who…

Blue Mountains, the agreed destination for tomorrow. Zoo on Saturday. On Friday, Hector will be permitted to visit One Drop Brewing as recommended by Julia. Remember Julia? Not doing so well on the Sydney brewing front then.

Booking a local excursion online, too many bad experiences: buses not turning up at the agreed spot etc. I located some travel agents, we looked at two. The first was all about Japanese freight, the other wholesale. At least we got to ride twenty floors up in elevators to confirm this.

York Street, the main north-south thoroughfare – let’s trust to luck.

A chap in an airline office told us to book our Blue Mountains trip at the Tourist Information at Circular Quay, simples.

Let’s have breakfast at Circular Quay – suggested Hector.

That went down well.

Having sussed the north-south Trams terminate there:

Let’s jump on a Tram at Wynyard.

And so we did, but where do you tap on/off?

I asked a couple – before you get on!

Marg, we’re off next stop!

I hope this is the clarity that Bier-Traveller offers. Nowhere in my research were poles with tiny machines mentioned.  Oh, and the Trams are called – Light Rail.

We managed to jump off, tap on, and with Marg’s holding the door get back on the same Tram.

The Hector is still slow from a standing start, the right foot.

At the Tourist Information, the queue was but a handful when we joined it, a mile long when we had finished. Why was my new Australian phone number not being recognised? Spam callers are finding me no problem.

Doris sold us two tickets for Blue Mountains, @£100.00 each. We could have taken the train for much less, but why fanny about with entrance fees etc.? A good guide can make the difference.

Frühstuck!

You choose.

The best advice and get out of gaol card, if it goes tits up then it’s not my fault.

Circular Quay is there a more expensive breakfast spot in Sydney?

Rossini At The Quay – the menu looked OK. Marg had her usual yoghurt and granola. Hector ordered – pork sausages with eggs. Poached eggs arrived. Hector never orders poached eggs. They were dry, not the dripping wet poached eggs served to me in the formative years. My first poached egg since York, at Betty’s. That was on top of Kedgeree, yum.

Sparkling Water? The chap who served hadn’t a clue, or much English. His boss had to step in, the customary Italian gestures accompanied. Mama, mia.

Manly, Ferry #1, tap on with the credit card, tap off, simples. Why are cities still using Oyster equivalents?

Hector and a boat, not a good combination. The sea was calm, and there was a distraction or two.

Oh, it’s Sydney, again.

There was the occasional reminder of what might have been: Australian coastal defense positions. But for Midway, the Japanese would have been here and the rest of history gone, as we know it. The Chinese are playing the long game.

Manly wasn’t far, just as well, and the sea was calm. Why were we going to Manly? A beach? After Berlin’s – Sea Life – last year, no way was Hector ever setting more than a toe in the Pacific.

Manly Wharf, to the left or to the right?

With buildings to the right, Hector led Marg to the left. A coastline walk as it turned out cutting through a restaurant. But not before Marg insisted on a – selfie. Hector subsequently produced a tripod. Compare, contrast.

Manly Waterworks, why did I feel compelled to send this photo to Nigel (Staggs, Musselburgh)?

Watch out! Penguins about – was posted all along the pathway. The penguins must have been on vacation, no not one.

In the year 2000, Hector put a toe in the Pacific at Venice Beach, Los Angeles. Today, a finger in the South Pacific. Cold water, Bali-hai!

At the agreed terminus of this walk there was a photo opperchancity. Time to prove that a camera still reigns supreme over a phone when zooming. The Lumix wins.

The alternative direction, to the one we had taken, took us through the main drag towards the beach on the far side, of what must have been a peninsula.

A long sandy beach, reminiscent of Agadir on December 25. Before the next trek there had to be liquid. 25ºC, still early in the day, sparkling water.

We had passed New Brighton Hotel, Taproom caught the eye. No Bier of interest, maybe just as well. The grand colonial style building had peeps on terraces above us.

A pint and a half of sparkling water please, no ice.

Will soda do?

No money changed hands. My sort of place. ‘Spoons in Manly?

We walked a good kilometre along the waterfront. I shall not dwell on the number of schools who had their girlies playing volleyball on the beach. Hector, the professional-still. Jack MacLean would have had weeks’ worth of material.

Ice Cream, it was time. At the far end of civilisation there was nothing. Has nobody read the work of – Hotelling’s The Engines of Our Ingenuity? This was a classic example of missed opperchancity.

We walked all the way back to Manly-proper. Ben & Jerry’s, really?

This is when today becomes interesting. The aforementioned chap at Aether Brewing (Brisbane) had given a short list of breweries worth visiting. From central Sydney to Brookvale looked like a complicated journey. There is a significant cluster of breweries in this suburb. Our new locus offered a new dimension. The recommended Broken Bay Brewing opened at 16.00. Too long to hang about. Aha! Bucketty’s opened at 15.00, better. I shall admit that Bucketty’s name was the initial attraction, and the promise of a NEIPA swung it.

A busy Bus 199 took us from the wharf bus station to Pittwater Rd after Harbord Rd. From there it was a few minutes to Bucketty’s.

What a place. Larger than many a micro, there was ample seating area. The promised NEIPA was available.

I was almost apologetic when I informed the serving Doris that this was but a stepping stone to Broken Bay.

Joe 2.0 at 7.1% was a bigger than expected start to the day’s Bier drinking. Whilst the hops could not be discovered, I suspect all the right ones were there. This was a decent NEIPA.

The step count was enhanced as we headed to Broken Bay. The entrance was a bit back from the road. Loads of seating outside for those who like that sort of thing. Hector was happy to find the place empty bar save two chaps engrossed at a table. The lady serving poured the Double Hop NEIPA at 6.4%. This was totally – in the style.

Featuring Citra, Galaxy, and Mosaic hops, this was truly enjoyable Bier, why was I leaving? Our stay was extended when one of the two chaps came over to check on our enjoyment. Brenton, the Brewer, accepted a Bier-Traveller – Calling Card – well it is in tiny writing on the back of the Curry-Heute – Calling Card.

Bier aside, this turned into a memorable visit. Brenton, the Brewer, spent a considerable time with us, talking – Bier. This is when Marg’s encyclopaedic knowledge of all the Breweries in all the World pays dividends. Marg can talk, at length about Bamberg, München, Köln. Marg famously had a litre in the Hofbräuhaus courtesy of Reinhold, the band leader. She even drank it. Marg has many a tale to tell. Hector got a few words in.

Brenton told of the barrel recycling system which is in operation. They don’t know where the barrels have been, or what has been in them. Even after the customary cleaning one Bier batch was ruined, contaminated by the dreaded – Brett. This cemented our contempt for this horrendous yeast infection.

Leaving was a case of tearing oneself away, The McVittie Arms could well have been declared. Brookvale, we were in the sticks and yet we had only scratched the surface We headed up the hill to catch the bus back to Manly Wharf. B1, the direct bus running from Mona Vale to Wynyard passed us, no need for the ferry then. For once it’s quicker by the frequent boat.

Mona Vale, this is where the Jon of Crawley resides, except he is abroad presently.

As the sun set we passed Sydney’s major landmarks, again. Of course there was more photos.

Back on dry land it was time for dinner. Harts Pub had been recommended, it was a few minutes walk from Circular Quay and uphill.

Harts Pub was like entering a time machine. One can state with confidence that this place has not changed in decades. Bier & Fud – was sorted. Via the QR code, Marg had a sensible portion of Fish & Chips, Hector ordered the – smaller – portion of Chicken Wings.

Death by Chicken.

The Bier was a Hazy Pale Ale at 5.0% from Six String Brewing, Erina, NSW.

A NEIPA according to Untappd, this had the full milkshake haze and featured Cashmere, El Dorado and Nelson Sauvin hops. A pleasant, smooth Bier, but a bit of a comedown from Broken Bay.

We walked back to the Ibis, it had been a long day. 19581 steps today, did I mention the sore right foot?

Breweries, Restaurant, Bar and Cafe visited today:

Bucketty’s Brewing Co., 26 Orchard Rd., Brookvale, Sydney NSW 2100

Broken Bay Brewing Co., 218 Harbord Rd., Brookvale, Sydney NSW 2100

Harts Pub – Essex St. & Gloucester St., The Rocks, Sydney NSW

Rossini At The Quay – Alfred St., Sydney NSW

New Brighton Hotel – 71 Corso, Manly Sydney NSW 2095

Ben & Jerry’s – Shop 5/25-27 Steyne, Manly Sydney NSW 2095

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Day 15, Thursday, April 4^th – Blue Mountains

Blue Mountains, the must-see we were told, by so many, perhaps even – you! – the reader.  Marg and Hector had also worked out the two remaining days. Friday, Botany, the locus of One Drop Brewing, Saturday, the Zoo.

Our Ibis wasn’t good enough we had to be collected from Sofitel at Wynyard at 08.10. The Hector had checked last night with their reception that this was the spot. Two other parties arrived as we stood in the shelter. Rain, ominous. Maybe there was shelter across the street.

£100.00 each to visit Blue Mountains, having signed up for this, I dared not look at the local train fare. We should have a guide our access should be prioritised. At what point would we visit his brother’s carpet factory?

Aaron, or – AA-Ron – as is happily to be remembered, mumbled a few words as we headed across the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Being driven across did not count, apparently we have to walk over it. Oh, no.

As we headed into Sydney’s western hinterland, so Aaron outlined the day. He wasn’t too confident about seeing the Blue Mountains. So, £200.00 down the drain then?

We then discovered that Featherdale Wildlife Park was on the itinerary, a stop in Leura for lunch, not inclusive, then on to Scenic World at Blue Mountains. The entry fees at Scenic World were presumably covered. There was some mumbled information about a ferry trip to conclude the day, those with the ability to tap on/off were fine, others would be taken care of.

I recall a trip Kenneth and Hector did from München to Kehlsteinhaus aka The Eagle’s Nest. The weather forecast was not optimal:

If one person says they want to continue to Obersalzberg, then we shall, else there is a fallback.

Kenneth stuck up his hand, the only person on the coach to do so:

I paid to see Kehlstein.

And so we went, and the sky cleared as if by magic. Excellent day.

Ninth day in Australia, it’s still warm here, so Marg and Hector set off from Sydney in matching t-shirts and shorts. Marg was horrified until she realised it would make us easy to spot.

Featherdale Sydney, home to the largest collection of Australian animals in the World. This was a – Brucie Bonus – for Marg who has to stop and address every animal she encounters. At Featherdale, all was well. A bit damp, but all the animals were happy to see us. Especially the Koalas whose network had no doubt advised them of our arrival: look extra cute.

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Feeding Kangaroos, it all seemed a bit – five days ago.

Oh, an Albino Kangaroo.

 

Once again, the Cassowaries intrigued. I wouldn’t like to encounter one without the fence between us.

I am coming to realise that Dingoes always look smug, as if they know something we can only speculate about. Maybe Meryl knows too.

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Penguins!

The highlight for Hector.

These were the smallest penguins of the species, they were glad to see us.

A Tasmanian Devil, hard to capture as it wouldn’t stay still. A Yellow-footed Rock Wallaby, it has a long tail.

More Kangaroos, just in case you need reminded where we are, and how much fun Marg was having.

Birds, lots of Birds.

One engaged with Marg, others were too busy eating, but the colours made them proud.

Then there was the Bird who lies to say – Nee! – … and tomorrow night’s dinner?

We grabbed a coffee and got back on the bus. Aaron says we can eat and drink on the bus as long as we don’t make a mess. It’s like being back at school, except we used to do the telling.

We were driven further west, inland towards Katoomba. By Leura, the temperature had plummeted some five degrees below the comfort zone, down to 12ºC. The rain looked ominous. Long trousers, in the day bag since the lesson learned back in Singapore. Need a warm top, last night I thought long and hard about this but decided otherwise. There must be a – kiss-me-quick – fleece to be purchased. I felt embarrassed when the best garments available in Leura proved to be haute couture. The clothes I have are the ones I need, I am not adding needless weight.

A second hand shop, or whatever grand name it had assumed, had a – Los Polos Hermanos – fleece on display. Had I sat on the pavement for a month, maybe it would have fitted me. Marg bought sweeties.

Our allocated time in Leura was running out. We hadn’t had lunch as was the expectation. Sausage rolls at the Chelsea Pie shop, coffee to go from the cafe next door who couldn’t serve us fast enough at a table. The umbrella was up more than it was down.

The Blue Mountains at Katoomba, the reason for the trip. Aaron said he would postpone taking us to the – Three Sisters – finger peaks until as late as possible – to give it time to clear. Scenic World was to amuse us until then.

The gift shop had an affordable fleece which the Hector could just about fit into. Anyone want a souvenir?

Entrance to Katoomba and the Three Sisters etc. is free. It’s the transport within which costs money. AS$58.00 entrance to Scenic World, plus maybe another AS$30.00 for the train had we come that way. Getting too Scenic World from the train station would have been an issue. Have I mentioned the rain? Add in AS$42.00 for Featherdale, plus the mumbled conclusion, and the near AS$200.00 day out by private coach feels justifiable. Plus, we had Aaron.

Scenic World has three modes of transport. The – Skyway – the yellow cable car across the valley. The – Cableway – the blue cable car to the forest floor, and the red ratchet – Railway, the steepest in the World, to take one back up again.

Red and blue are interchangeable. I’m glad we came back up in the red, going down would have been extremely hairy.

Temperate Rainforest, after today there was no doubt as to how this natural vegetation acquired its name.

It was coal-mining which brought peeps to this area initially. The boardwalk between the Cableway and the Railway is well signed.

Fifty minutes is the given time, we did it in little over thirty, with stops for photos.

Perhaps one is meant to have a picnic or take in the vista. Tree height is as far up as we could see.  The retired Geographer did spot the – erratics.

The Railway is indeed steep, and shifts like a rocket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The short hop across the valley on the Skyway proved the absurdity of the day. Trees, a valley? The Three Sisters? Scotch Mist! We took the Skyway, we had paid for it, Katoomba Falls lay on the other side. Gulfloss this was not. Watching a waterfall in the pouring rain, so rewarding.

The Skyway controller said – it’s always like this – as we returned to base. The cafes at Scenic World were closing, everyone back on the bus.

Scenic World, my arse – I said to Aaron as I got back on the coach.

For an idea of what the Three Sisters are about, look at their German equivalent which has been posted on the Homepage of the very website since its inception.

The passenger in the front seat handed everyone a shiny AS$10.00 note. No more mumbling, this was to pay for our ferry ride back to either Circular Quay or Darling Harbour at Barangaroo near our Ibis. But from were?

The chap sitting in front of us on the bus had left something in a shop in Leura. On our unplanned return to Leura, it was closed.

At least you didn’t lose your hat – was how the Hector consoled his disappointment.

His Benny-hat proudly featured the crest of – The Famous. This Canadian bought his hat – in a shop – in Glasgow one Sunday morning, his head was cold. He then continued his tour of the city, taking in the east where he was promptly challenged. He enjoyed the west end.

Sydney Olympic Park, clearly having signed up for a trip to Blue Mountains, this is what we wanted to see. One of our company was interested in the Hockey pitches.

A ten Dollar note, I haven’t spent any of the AS£100.00 I took out in cash in Brisbane. Now I had more. Australia is a near cashless society, but suddenly we each had the appropriate amount for a tip. Aaron thanked us all individually as we bade farewell at the ferry wharf. Had we all joined the masons?

Ferry 3 – (of 9) from Sydney Olympic Park took us down the, delightfully calm, Parramatta River passing Meadowbank, Abbotsford, Drummoyne, Birkenhead then both Greenwich and Putney.

Unsurprisingly we saw one of Sydney’s landmarks before turning into Darling Harbour.

The fleece was dumped, warmer clothes. At last (?) the Bologna jacket that Hector has been carrying on and off flights was put to use. South Island in New Zealand was expected to be the place of its inaugural unveiling.  Haute coiture.

I could have played the – Curry Card – but gave way to Marg’s favourite food – Italian. Maybe it was the fine cut of the jacket which planted the seed.

The young waiter at the door of Vapiano said they weren’t taking walk-ins. With the rain becoming heavier, Hector was in no mood to start another search. It was agreed we could come back in an hour. He would remember us.

The Bavarian, a Aussie Bier chain which unsurprisingly serves Deutsche Bier was just along King Street.

We were given a table in full view of the musician whom everyone was ignoring. He wasn’t that bad.

Löwenbräu Helles for Hector, Cola for Marg. The serving Doris was taken aback when I insisted on paying up front. I wanted to leave at the moment of our choosing.

Back at Vapiano, our chap was nowhere to be seen. The rush had passed, no problem getting a table. Order by QR code, pay in advance. Gratuity, for what? We haven’t been served yet.

A Carbonara variant for Marg, Polpette for Hector. I like my meatballs to have meat in them. I suspect Chef was taking liberties with the ratio of breadcrumbs to meat. I stopped eating because I was bored with this pasta dish as much as I was full already. The cheesy bread to start was maybe excessive.

Sweeney’s Rooftop Bar has provided the best Bier found in Sydney so far. Marg stayed on the ground-floor in the main bar whilst I graced the stairs. Ordering Bier at an outside bar in pouring rain, desperation. Again there was a choice of NEIPAs and by the same New York Brewery.

Superhero Sidekicks (Kings County Brewers Collaboration, Brooklyn, New York, NY, USA) at 6.9% was a dark gold, suitably hazy with a pronounced body. The extensive array of hops appeared to have cancelled each other out, the opposite of synergy? Citra, Mosaic, Idaho 7, Cascade and Centennial were the hops from which a more intense flavour might have been expected.

Barks & Recreation, a 7.2% NEIPA faired a bit better. Darker than normal but still with the full haze, there was a rebound sharpness at the start. Once the Superhero had gone back to civvies, the sense of hops came across, as did the fruitiness. Citra, Simcoe, El Dorado and Motueka were working hard to make this Bier worthwhile. Actually, there was nothing here not to like.  A grower.

A long day, a two Bier day, those stairs … a wet walk back to the hotel. Why was my umbrella dripping from the inside? Two final things to report:

From back home, the adviser who shall remain anonymous and suggested – Blue Mountains – said – it was like that when we went.

Marg has decided that we have seen enough animals in Sydney, Zoo on Saturday is aff.

Bars and restaurant visited today:

The Bavarian York St., 24 York St., Sydney NSW 2000

Rooftop Bar, Hotel Sweeney’s – 236 Clarence St, Sydney NSW 2000

Vapiano King Street – King Street & York Street, Sydney NSW 2000

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Day 16 – Friday, April 5^th

Rain has been mentioned oft in the last couple of weeks. All part of Hector’s master-plan in crossing the Equator with the ITCZ to the north of us. Needless to say, the rain that became serious last night was not for letting up. Today it was either heavy or heavier. There was not much incentive for leaving Ibis Barangaroo other than this was Hector’s Bier Day.

The local news channel had the typical scene of a spokesperson surrounded by peeps who just wanted to be on camera, telling us our fate. There be floods aplenty, but not where we were. It would take a tsunami, and some, for sea level to flood Downtown Sydney.

Early afternoon, Train 8 took us from Wynyard to Green Square. There, dodging puddles, we took Bus 309 in the direction of Botany Bay.  We were incredibly close to the airport. 

The couple of blocks walk into the industrial estate was lengthened by our arrival at Slow Lane Brewing, the last place I looked at on the map before getting off the bus. How to make your fellow traveller happy, not.

One Drop Brewing is co-owned by a friend of Julia’s, they went through primary school together in Nelson, New Zealand. In addition to securing Bier #1, I asked if Nick was around. No, but he would be informed of our presence if he showed.

Top Down, a 6.5% DDH NEIPA was just the Bier Hector sought. The full on haze was comfortably familiar. Smooth in the palate, dangerously easy to drink. What a fine array of hops: Riwaka, Citra Cryo, YQH 1320 (Yakima) and they were coming across well.

Marg wanted food and so risked a soaking by going to the van out-back. The Tacos may have been tasty, however, they were no more than a nibble, and so way overpriced.

Nick joined us, he had no idea who we were, the magic mention of – Julia – changed everything.

I messaged Julia back in Singapore – he’s never heard of you.

All things Bier were discussed, another opperchancity for Marg to display here empirical knowledge of the best locations in Europe. Nick stood Hector a Bier and Marg a soft drink, yay!

Things were about to get even better. The 16.00 Happy Hour was looming, a few minutes of temperance would pay dividends. On purchasing the next round, the full price es charged.

No Happy Hour?

The refund was immediate, a A$5.00 Bier tastes almost as good as a freebie.

Ready or Not at 7.0%, a Hazy IPA in the New England style according to a well known beer app. Citra, Idaho 7, Peacharine-Freestyle were present. Suitably mellow, and again easy drinking.

Whilst neither Bier was an outright winner, they were both among the best I have found in Oz.

The map suggests a back way from One Drop to Slow Lane. The map is wrong. It once again took longer than necessary to get there. And when I keep mentioning the rain, there’s a reason. Marg took one step beyond in search of coffee.

Slow Lane is a much smaller operation than One Drop. There was only one Bier that I could have.

Supersaturated at 6.7%, a Hazy IPA, lived up to its physical description but had a definite astringent aftertaste. This, in effect, made One Drop’s Bier even better. Citra, Mosaic, Motueka and Simcoe hops were present. The something not right might have been down to the yeast – London Ale.

This was a case of glad when it’s over.

Marg was back, the photographic record was completed, back to town.

With a return to Lal Qila still planned for tomorrow, after our non-visit to the zoo, I suggested we alight at Central Station and taken in North India Flavour – Street Food. One part of Hector’s meal was a standout. Read all about it – here.

A four Bier day, enough, there’s always tomorrow. Doug asked on social media if I had heard of Marrickville. I have now!

Just as well there’s no zoo tomorrow.

Breweries and restaurant visited today:

One Drop Brewing Co.  –  5 Erith St., Botany, Sydney NSW 2019

Slow Lane Brewing  –  30 Byrnes St., Botany, Sydney NSW 2019

North India Flavour – Street Food  –  537 George St., Sydney NSW 2000

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Day 17 – Saturday, April 6^th – Marrickville, St Peters

Blue skies! Rain, what rain? All was well with the World except Hector’s right foot. As soon as I stop walking it seizes, even at traffic lights. After a few minutes I could walk for Scotland. Having not worn sandals for a week, I wonder why, it cannot be down to that. Old age is the likely cause. At this rate Hector might need one of those boomerangs which doesn’t come back.

With the zoo no more, the plan for today: the first half belongs to Marg, the second to Hector. Actually, that’s how most days operate. We headed north from Barangaroo to find the ramp to the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Nothing like a good walk to prove the foot is really fine. For Hector this would not be a good walk for another reason.

On setting off we happened upon an entrance to Wynyard station, complete with escalators, metres from the Ibis Barangaroo.  Handy for tomorrow.

On reaching The Bridge’s pedestrian entrance, a chap, whose job it was to tell us, directed us to the far side. Cyclists get one side, pedestrians the other. Climbing the stairs, we found cyclists being directed to the far side. Why do I find cyclists so annoying, and scooters even moreso?

The first metres, still over land, were high but not too uncomfortable.

By the time we were over the water, the acrophobia meter had swung far right. Those who know, understand, otherwise it can only be described as a paralysis coupled with terror. What I cannot source is – transferred acrophobia. If Marg goes close to the edge, the scenario is exactly the same. Even holding her phone over the rail to take photos triggers the feeling.

How to cope:

Don’t touch me!

Keep your distance.

I’ll walk, eyes down on the inside. I’ll force people to take the outside to overtake, I will undertake only. Two kids mucking about made me want to chuck them over, but I probably would feel that in an eating/drinking environment too.

OK, the view was worth it, and having my phone chained to my clothing appeases that terror, a bit.

At the mid-point, a passing couple decided our photo was being took. That was as close as I let Marg be through the entire crossing.  Only one of Sydney Harbour’s attractions is visible from – The Bridge, strange that.

Milsons Point, the far side, all was well again. Bunkers required. There was a Curry House nearby, but a return to Lal Qila was still in Hector’s plan for the day.

Kirribilli Woodfire Kitchen has a good rating and was right in front of us. Here Sparkling Water was on the house. A la Bologna where there are public fonts issuing both fresh and sparkling water, why are we paying so much for this?

Marg had her customary salad, Hector’s turn for Carbonara. Both were mountainous. If I cannot manage Aussie portions, how shall I fair in good old USA?

The Botanic Gardens was next on Marg’s plan, how to get there. Milsons Point train station was conveniently across the street. There was a tunnel under the railway which Marg strangely wanted to walk though. I have to keep her right. Tap on, a train was on the platform, one stop back to Wynyard.

This train was going nowhere. Stuck at a red light the driver announced delay after delay. Eventually he advised that if we had other means of getting to our destination we should do so. A bus over the bridge would involve a fair walk inland. Ferry!

We walked down through Brafield Park to Milsons Ferry Wharf. As soon as we reached the underside of Bridge, so we heard our train make the crossing. So it goes.

Hector on another boat, yee-hah!

Ferry 4 (of 9), took us to Circular Quay which was nearer our chosen destination than the train would have taken us. A calm crossing, and I foresee no more boats on this sojourn.

In her morning runs, Marg had been to the Opera House and established that it is in fact more than one building. This was Hector’s first time in close proximity.

The Botanic Gardens provided a pleasant stroll.

Flower arches were spread around the park, weddings. Were these for today, or abandoned from yesterday? The Calyx appeared to be the focal point of the park, a floral display.

Closed for a private function. Ah well, next time in Sydney.

How to get to Marrickville? Bus 428 would take us, but from Elizabeth Street. This involved a twelve minute walk around the houses even though it was directly through the mass of buildings beside us. Liquid was taken on board once more, the cafe was closing at 15.00, chairs were being put away. Hector and Marg on a park bench, no brown paper bag.

Instead, Bus 430 took us down through streets we now recognised. Grace Brothers! Unfortunately no decent photo could be taken. Thereafter, the architecture changed dramatically. The shiny glass gave way to two story terraces. Newtown, this looked seedy, old Sydney, contrary to its moniker. Maybe this is where the real Sydney people reside. There was a 1950s black and white movie feel about the whole stretch.

We were heading to Marrickville, well the industrial part, where there is a cluster of breweries a la Manly. With Kicks Brewing only open Saturday & Sunday, and closing at 18.00, this was the starting point.

A small unit, remarkably similar to Slow Lane Brewing yesterday. The choice was equally limited.

Double Nelson West Coast DIPA at 8.0% could have been a decent – goodnight Bier – but it was way too early. There was one Bier – in the style – and at a sensible abv.

The only NEIPA available was Peals of Laughter at 6.0%, session strength then. The hops could not be identified, but this super-hazy offering was almost a delight. Chewy, smooth, juicy, it had all the hallmarks of a worthy NEIPA, but then there was the niggly background taste which prevented it getting a spot on the podium. The story of too many a Bier. Can the brewers not taste it? Are they stuck with putting it out? Are their plates not in tune? I must ask Brian (Bräugier, Berlin).

This was a three brewery event, then back for Curry at Lal Qila. The best laid plans…

Sauce Brewing Co was the next intended venue, but to get there, they’re on the same street, we had to pass Mixtape. Marg stopped off for a coffee but they wouldn’t serve her one. Despite being open, they were closed.

Mixtape Brewing & Bar was stowed. Everybody was here, by then Marg had caught up. We are the people. The only Hazy was not brewed here, so why stop? We would never have got a spot anyway.

Sauce Brewing Co was in an industrial area along the street. This was the happening place. The large entry area gave way to a cavernous brewhouse. Through the back was plenty of seating for those who can have Bier in the sunshine.

The comedy Bier choices shall not be forgotten. How these Flavours work in an IPA I never want to find out. On a one Bier per brewery model, the choice had to be right.

The 6.5% NEIPA – IPA New England – looked – the business. That’s as full a milkshake haze as one encounters. Juicy, smooth, easy drinking, there was nothing wrong here except the hops were not pulling their weight: Citra, Mosaic, Sultana, Galaxy. What on earth is Sultana.

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The senior barman looked up the hops for me. There was an air of respect here, I wish I could have stayed longer, I wish there had been a Bier to make me want to. A fun place.

It was a good twenty minute walk to Future Brewing. In doing so we had left Marrickville and neared St Peters. Negotiating the flyover proved to be a bit tricky, once managed, we were on Future Brewing.

DDH All Juice at 8.2% had a worthy array of hops, however, Nothing But Nelson at the same abv won the day.

Wow! A DDH Hazy DIPA , this was the Bier the Hector has been looking for. Perfection in a glass. Tropical, juicy, smooth, mellow, mouthfeel – whatever that is – the hoppy blast. No nasty aftertaste. I hadn’t reached the halfway mark when I advised Marg I was not leaving – The McVittie Arms.

I related my pleasure to the girls behind the bar, appreciated. Quite busy when we arrived, the place was becoming quieter. Hector was having a good time, Marg could tell this was a special moment.

It was only on entering this Bier in the database when I realised that I already had an awareness of Future Brewing. Back in January at Track  (Manchester, England), a collaborative brew: Elyssia at 7.0%, a DDH IPA, caused a stir. We couldn’t drink enough of Elyssia.

A pity the t-shirts were naff. But usually they are. Why have breweries not caught up with the Germans, embroidery, not transfers please. Hector was in a good place after two eight per-centers.

So much so, that when we stumbled upon Brickworks, the Hector was not for passing by. In we went to the near empty premises. The barman was in conversation with the only customers. Were we an intrusion?

Hazy IPA at 7.2% was the only Bier on the board that could possibly follow Future Brewing. Needless to say it didn’t. This makes me wonder, should I have had a third Hazy DIPA?

The muddy haze was not attractive, the Bier was thin for its abv. Even with Citra and Amarillo hops, this Bier was not giving much.

Out into the darkness, it was only metres to St Peters train station. Now I know how to get to Future Brewing the easy way.

No more Bier, anything else would have been a disappointment. Too late for Curry, we went back down to Darling Harbour.

There was an elaborate fireworks display to the south. Not for us, surely? Is this how Aussies bid farewell?

We still needed food, Georges Mediterranean Bar & Grill, a Greek restaurant for a change.

Let’s have a bottle of Posé wine!

And so we did.

Anchovies, taramasalata too, can’t wait for September. Check out the Chillies.

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The last full day in Australia, a not too early rise tomorrow. We packed a lot in today. A twelve day whirlwind, maybe we’re getting the hang of it, and hopefully holiday restrictions are in the past.

Breweries and restaurants visited today:

Future Brewing – 82 May St, St Peters, Sydney NSW 2044

Brickworks Brewing – 15 May St, St Peters, Sydney NSW 2044

Kicks Brewing – 31 Shepherd St, Marrickville, Sydney 2204

Mixtape Brewing & Bar – 142A Victoria Rd, Marrickville, Sydney NSW 2204

Sauce Brewing Co – 142A Victoria Rd, Marrickville , Sydney NSW 2204

Kirribilli Woodfire Kitchen – Shop 2/27 Broughton St., Milsons Point Sydney NSW 2061

Georges Mediterranean Bar & Grill – King Street Wharf, 3 The Promenade, Sydney NSW 2000

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