Bieres Sans Frontieres (B.S.F.), is an ad hoc group created by those who work at the so called – Foreign Bar – at British – CAMRA – organised beer festivals. Hector may only have worked once at that London’s GBBF in 2016, however, the right to be has been earned by working at the Paisley Beer Festival since the 1990s and subsequently – G-RAF – the Glasgow Real Ale Festival. No more acronyms.
When the late Jonathan Kemp announced that this year’s – B.S.F.-A.G.M. – was being held in Bamberg, Dr. Stan plus Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley, decided we had to be there. On our last trip to Bamberg in November 2022, we watched the relay of Jonathan’s funeral, he was meant to be on that trip, and this one…
Wednesday, March 29
Today Hector flew from Edinburgh to München, touching down at the same time that Dr. Stan was arriving at München Hauptbahnhof. Clive and Maggie had arrived on a red eye from Gatwick and were allowed to check in at their Ibis at 10.30. I suggested that as they had already purchased the M-5 Zone day ticket, they take advantage and go to Kloster Andechs. They decided we should all go tomorrow.
For Hector, the first thing after hotel check in at München is Curry at Indian Mango (Isartor). I had calculated a 19.00 rendezvous on the fear that the post Brexit passport checks would take up to an hour. However, a quick exit from the ‘plane saw the Hector clear immigration in a near instant. The only hold up being the – why are you here?
Bier, Urlaub – was the simple answer.
Now it gets difficult, the others had installed themselves at Augustiner Stammhaus and intended to make the original rendezvous. Hector was forty minutes ahead of schedule. It was suggested I join them, then we go to Isartor. Knowing the situation well, I bypassed Augustiner, and went for Fisch Chettinad. In the meantime, Dr. Stan and Clive had done the inevitable and succumbed to that which passes for food in Deutschland.
Around 19.30, Hector arrived at Augustiner, a Helles (5.2%) was quickly ordered. Dr, Stan has convinced me over the years that this is the better start, Edelstoff (5.6%) can wait. A ritual that actually began in Berlin at Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt.
Always light and refreshing, it’s good to refamiliarise oneself with – Helles – a style ignored for a long time during Hector’s era of – nothing but Weizen.
Clive and Maggie were on the Edelstoff already, well for a while. Maggie thinks she can drink Bier, well she can, but not very much. Her logic is that spirits will not fill her up. With no Brandy to her choice, or anything else apparently, she opted for Vodka with Cola on the side, to mix.
Women do this, i.e. drink Vodka when they don’t actually like it. I know, I first poured this in a pub back in 1974.
Edelstoff, aka Paisley Pop, definitely has more of a kick, however, given that 6.0% plus has become the – Session abv – during/since Lockdown, this feels quite manageable. Any thoughts of an early departure were thwarted by Hector having to be sated by both the Helles then the Edelstoff.
At our time of departure, the Crawley Royalty were heading back to Dachauer Strasse, by tram, the Bad Boys headed round to Andechser am Dom.
Bad Boys? We have our ritual wind-up.
Es gibt ihren Spezial Hell Heute?
*
As described on another post, one night we actually struck it lucky, Elke, the former manageress at the original venue, sold us some from a private party downstairs. Tonight we – settled – for the Bergbock Hell. At 6.9% much heftier than the Spezial Hell (5.8%). I’m actually surprised that the Bergbock Hell is their regular Bier on tap, one could do damage here.
Sense prevailed, back to the Bier that first got me into Andechs Bier – Weissbier Hell (5.5%). Another ritual is the artistic photography, no candles tonight, a strange illumination, the flowers are different.
Thursday, March 30
Yes, it has gone midnight, and we are still here. For the first time in my visits to the new premises, the upstairs was busy, perhaps this prolonged the service? I saw a semi-familiar face lead some suits upstairs.
That’s Sepp – Dr. Stan informed me.
Sepp, the owner of this franchise, had his photos adorn the walls of the previous premises. There is seemingly nobody that Sepp has not had his photo taken with, except Dr. Stan and Hector, until tonight. There are times one has to be Gallus. The manager – Alan (?) – led us outside, the portal has been retained from the original premises, it was here the deed was done.
As we returned to finish our Bier, so Brigitte, the manageress, was standing at our table with a 10l Fass of Spezial Hell.
I remember you!
We were informed that this is always available to purchase. We did manage 20l over two nights at Silvester in pre Covid days. One needs the mouths, and four on this trip is not enough, well 3.5.
And so back to the Hotel Royal, an oft visited lodging which has priced itself out of consideration in recent years. A few weeks ago, I spotted a single room at an affordable price. Fortunately I was able to cancel my booking across the river. Who now books accommodation that cannot be cancelled in these times?
Going to bed at 01.00 is the Hector norm, except tonight it wasn’t really. The clocks went forward three nights back, this afternoon, another hour. The result, no sleep for Hector. Street noise did not help, and the room was so hot the window had to be open.
Being part of – the wide awake club -, there was coffee and yoghurt around 09.00.
One egg was – un oeuf.
Still no sleep thereafter.
I met Clive and Maggie at noon for Curry, except they appeared to have forgotten the arrangement. Coffee and a bag of food had been bought for the journey to Kloster Andechs,
Lamm Chettinad at Indian Mango first.
Dr. Stan was waiting at Hauptbahnhof, or what remains of it, for the train to Tutzing. This connects with a bus to Andechs, today, it didn’t. Having crawled along the west side of Stanberger See, our train was well late. Maybe it’s safer to take the S Bahn on the outward journey to Herrsching.
We had an unplanned fifty minutes in the coffee shop opposite Tutzing Bahnhof. Sheltering from the rain became the priority. How long can one make a Coffee last?
Spezial Hell (5.8%) at last, and at such a wonderful price, €4.00 for a half felt like a bargain when compared to what pays for Craft Beer. Once enough Curry had been digested, Apfel Strudel was ordered, we have our rituals.
Doppelbock Dunkel (7.1%) has a definite sweetness, but well, why not?
The far room, where we usually sit, was quiet for most of the afternoon. The main room was always buzzing. Nobody outside, because of the rain, but it did clear early evening. No merchandise on sale, Tegernsee could teach Kloster Andechs so much.
With closing time looming, it was back on the bus to Tutzing which does arrive early enough to guarantee the train back to München. And there are toilets on the train, which the S Bahn does not have.
Where next? – asked Clive.
Dr. Stan used to hate the Hofbräuhaus, yesterday, he admitted that he now quite enjoys it. Since – pop – music was ditched in favour of Bayerische Classics, the atmosphere has changed dramatically. The smoking ban also helped.
€10.40 for a litre of Helles, city centre prices. The Hofbräuhaus finally serve half litres which traditionally they refused to do. I was the only one having the litre, though Dr. Stan soon regretted not doing so, he caught up.
Tonight’s band had a dominant horn player, I prefer the smooth blend the various instrument make in harmony. I wonder how Rheinhold Frank is? 1976, the first year I set foot in the Hofbräuhaus, a lifetime ago. I always preferred the Löwenbräu at the Mathäser, and the dimensions of the other Bierhalle.
Another early night, no sleep at all.
Friday, March 31
With buses running from Nürnberg to Bamberg, there was no point investing in an ICE, a Bayern Ticket would suffice. In the coming days, a €49 ticket is being introduced which lasts a month and is valid on all transport across the nation, except of course EC/IC/ICE. Any five day trip to Deutschland should surely make this ticket worthwhile. The experimental €9.00 month-long ticket last summer was wonderful, but not sustainable.
Arriving first at the Hauptbahnhof, the first person I met was Doug. He had been travelling with another group and was now headed to Bamberg using an Inter Rail ticket which is valid on IC trains. This was almost the case in the 1970s, Zuschlag – . an early word I learned in Deutsch.
A fleet of buses was waiting on the west side of Nurnberg Hbf to take us to Bamberg etc. Hector caught up with some blogging, the Doris behind me spoke non-stop for one hour. Hell is other people – a famous philosopher once said.
Having checked in at the Ibis Altstadt, it was time to head out. Spezial is always where we start. In fact such rituals are why I feel I do not have to Blog every trip. Lagerbier (4.7%) is a gentle wake up to the palate for what follows at Schlenkerla. Light and Smokey, but not intensely so, always more-ish, yet we rarely stay past the litre.
Graham and Sarah walked in and recognised me from previous B.S.F. encounters. They had little choice but to sit with me, one feature of Spezial and Keesmann is that tables are often reserved. Sometimes, one simply does not get in. Maybe one has to accept that more planning is becoming required to guarantee access. Online apps?
Clive and Maggie had not shown, the latter – indisposed. We crossed the road to Fässla, Doug was there with John, a first encounter. Lagerbier (5.5%) was ordered, no smokiness here, just a simple Helles. Food was ordered, Wiener Schnitzel, which I shall claim as being Austrian. Unfortunately, because I was not forceful enough, I ended up with Pommes. Real chips I can handle occasionally, and only if smothered in mayonnaise.
Clive and Maggie eventually showed and after a Bier it was declared time for our group of six to move west along the same street to Bräuerei Landwinkl. First visited in November last year, Landwinkl was immediately declared the best of the new brewhouses which have appeared in Bamberg in recent years. Packed last time, this time we had a choice of tables and so located ourselves at the first table on entry.
The friendly chap from November was not on duty, tonight, an equally accommodating Doris. For Hector, the A Rauchigs, a 5.4% smoked Bier which I put flavour-wise, between Spezial’s – Lagerbier and Schlenkerla’s – Märzen. This means it is certainly a worthy Bier. Others had the A Hells and A Brauns, next time maybe, always leave something new to try.
Maggie, who somehow was Biered-out already, sent Clive up to the bar to negotiate a Brandy and Cola. He returned with a half litre glass of JD and Cola, the Bourbon being just under half of the volume. At the time of paying, Clive was very happy with what he had ben charged for Maggie’s cocktail. With the Bier being charged at €3.70 per half litre, Bamberg remains a happy hunting ground.
It was time to move to Schlenkerla else there would be little point. Google Maps showed a bus back to the ZOB, technically halfway. Clive and Maggie were calling it a night, the ZOB is minutes from the Ibis Altstadt, and a Kebap Shop. With their accommodation nearer the station, there was little point Doug and John joining us. The München Four stood at the bus stop for some ten minutes, nay bus. So not only in Glasgow do buses not show as per timetable.
Dr. Stan and Hector crossed the Main-Donau Kanal via the Löwenbrücke bridge which lies to the west of the town centre and managed to reach Am Krannen ahead of schedule. The Rathaus built on the Obere Brücke is the picture postcard Bamberg scene. Who still sends postcards? As with the München Rathaus, Bamberg’s was not illuminated, all to do with saving energy whilst the needless conflict in Ukraine continues. With reference to Valkyrie, part of an historical conflict, the once vandalised Staufenberg memorial has been replaced.
We were given the small table up the stairs to the right, a bit of a squeeze, at least we were in. A 23.30 official closing was anticipated, we got some Märzen in. At a mere 5.1%, the Märzen is much lighter (sic) than the 6.5% Urbock. Maybe not as smooth, but still as smokey. An acquired taste, and for those of us who enjoy it, a fine way to end the evening.
Hector was last to leave the building, and not for the first time.
Saturday, April 1
Today was the day of the A.G.M., I have previously attended parts of the ones held in Sheffield and Barcelona. 12.30 at Brauhaus Zum Sternla, another of the three new venues to have appeared in Bamberg in recent years. 12.30, too early for Bier as far as Hector was concerned. Arriving punctually, I was shown to the back room which notionally had been reserved for our group of twenty four. Except, there would be more non – B.S.F. – people in the room, families, weans, who organised this?
Having made one visit to Sternla in April last year, Hector was in no rush to return. Then we were forced to sit out in the cold and damp entry room with a crowd of louts. The main room had – reserved – tables, for whom and when? Whatever, they were not for letting us sit there. The Bier did not impress, another reason for having lemonade today. So last year they could protect those seats, not today.
Kerr did his best to chair the meeting, Jim, in his absence, was given special duties. Jim too was missed on this trip, he would no doubt have driven over with Jonathan to collect Bier from the Hinterland. Those days have sadly gone. There was a toast to Jonathan.
Maggie was having a day off, a pity because she has not met The Berlin Ladies. Yes, Bruna, Bianca and Marina had travelled down for the day with Colin the – associate – of Bräugier (Berlin). The rendezvous was Klosterbräu which the Hector has not visited in ten years, basically, not a fan of their Bier either. However, today was the start of a two day Rauchbier-fest.
The majority of the B.S.F. chaps and chapattis would end up at Klosterbräu, along with half of the population of Bamberg, so it felt. There were no tables available in the main room, we took our Bier from the hatch in the entrance hallway which fortunately now has glass insulation. Not so warm in Deutschland this April, yet.
The 5.4% Rauchbier proved to be suitably palatable. There was a sense of Hops coming through the smokiness, – almost as smokey as Schlenkerla – was noted.
The Berlin Four joined us at the Stehplatz, introductions were made. Derek, founder of Kelburn Brewery, Ian, the stalwart of Ayrshire CAMRA, and Colin #2, my – boss – at G-RAF and Paisley. Bruna knew the main waiter in Klosterbräu and used her influence to get a table. In time we were all seated, but then Kerr, Derek et al disappeared, glasses in hand, to where?
The first comfort break revealed all. Klosterbräu now have an additional room, and a vast one at that. A former lagering room has been turned into a – Bier Keller – in the British misuse of that term. Why this was not made available earlier remains a mystery.
Colin #2 sat with us, Sam too and Sarah, his mother, briefly. The Rauchbier was going down well, this was easily the best afternoon I’ve ever had at Klosterbräu.
The Berliners sought food, Hector was so close to Schlenkerla going anywhere seemed silly, however, we were summoned to a restaurant by the other B.S.F. Members.
Clive, Dr. Stan and Hector went in one direction, the Berliners another. Colin #2 led us up the hill to Stöhrenkeller which serves Thai food at weekends. Up the hill, something I try to avoid in Bamberg hence the limited visits to Greifenklau.
All seats in the room were taken, a waitress advised us that our friends would be departing soon, the next bookings were due We had a Bier in the hallway, in time all would pass us en route to the facilities.
Kellerbier 5.2% (Gänstaller Braumanufaktur, Deutschland), yellow, with a slight haze. The customary – Kellerbier shock – was not present, the palate immediately adjusted, with an appropriate body, a decent Bier.
Downhill to Schlenkerla, the others mentioned – Pelikan – Dr. Stan, Clive and Hector stuck to our guns. Evidenty, the majority followed.
Sat in the room to the right, Dr. Stan admitted that he did not like the main room to the left as one enters. We have rarely sat there, now I know why, it has only taken twenty five years. In time, The Berlin Four joined us, more Märzen.
Our waitress said she remembered me from previous visits, she took the – selfie – Hector cannot abide them. We were well looked after.
At closing time, Hector was definitely in the zone, more Bier. Walking westwards to Das Pelikan, last visited in 2015, I passed previous late night haunts, they were busy. Das Pelikan was remarkably quiet.
We were indeed the last men standing, and a new Bier was had.
Mönschambacher Export 5.2% (Brauerei Zehnder, Burgerach, Bayern) was a gold, full bodied Helles. After a day on Rauchbier, easy drinking.
I managed not to buy a Kebap on the way home.
Sunday, April 2
There was talk yesterday of an organised tour of nearby Breweries. I know not who was doing the – organising – in the end, it was not to be. With Keesmann closed on a Sunday, there was no point heading to Wunderburg. Hector always had Forchheim in mind, this idea appeared to trickle through the B.S.F. party.
Before Bier, there had to be Bunkers. If there was going to be a Curry in Bamberg, today was the day. The history of Curry in this town is complex. Mainstream, at best, is all one can hope for. The account of the visit to Ganesha Tandoori is written.
On previous outings from Bamberg there has always been a local group ticket for the train. The ticket machine was not giving this. Return tickets are not a feature of European travel, the UK is soon to abandon them. The queue at the ticket office, staffed by two, would mean missing the train. Individual tickets were purchased from the machine by Dr. Stan, Clive and Maggie, Hector used the DB app and saved a few Pfennigs. Yes, Maggie was back out to play.
Being unable to walk at a snail’s pace, the Hector strode off on arrival at Forchheim, there was a market outside the Rathaus and consequently in front of the two remaining brewery taps on this stretch. Hebendanz first, Colin #2, Graham and Sarah were in situ, others had just departed for the Kellers.
Märzen at 5.2% comes from a bottle, I was led to believe that this Bier is available in March and October, a dual Festbier. Yellow-gold in colour, apart from the slight sweetness, this was a fine Helles style Bier.
Clive ordered this when he arrived, Maggie and Dr. Stan took the Export Hell, 5.0%. This was Bier #2 for Hector. There was no sense of sweetness here, maybe the better choice.
The Stammtisch was loud, exceptionally so. A mixed group, the level of hilarity mid afternoon suggesting a good session. One chap did the translating, the old chap serving appeared not to understand our pronunciation of – anything. In time, the duty Doris took over, better service.
The München Four headed next door to Neder, the remaining three to Kellerwald. The serving Doris at Neder sent me through to the back, the main door was out of action. Initially I thought she meant the room was full and we would have to be served outside at the rear, fortunately not. Half of a large table adjacent to the serving area was secured. A young group of chaps asked permission to occupy the remainder.
Kellerbier at 4.9% is presumably what we had. Having drunk this since 1997, a well established experience, especially on Annafest visits. Annafest, it has ben a while, however, the Bamberg area in summer can be hectic. Somehow, Maggie was Biered-out already. Something with Cola was acquired, but not Asbach Brandy, that she cannot abide, unless…
Facing the barrels, I saw the serving chap half fill a two litre boot with Bier. He then poured in the equivalent of a quarter bottle of Asbach. To that a Cherry Liqueur., then more Bier to fill the glass. Where was this monstrosity headed?
The chaps beside us had ordered this creation. I asked permission to take a photo, granted, but on one condition. At least in this post Covid era, it was The München Four who got to drink first from the boot.
Gaosmoas! – not too shabby, the Kirsche dominated, a pleasant fruity sweetness. One sip was enough. In fact they asked if we were actually drinking and not adding to the glass. Whatever triggered the ordering of this – cocktail – it was quickly consumed and the chaps moved on, as did we.
Hirschaid next and Braueri Kraus. At Forchheim Bahnhof we met up with the Keller chaps including Jason, a Bamberg resident. Doug decided to join us once more. A few minutes later we alighted at Hirschaid, the station us still under renovation, so a longer walk to Kraus.
We were invited to sit to the left, not on the main drinking room to the right. Usually we stop off here in November for the Bock, today, the Helles at 4.7% would suffice, though Dr. Stan had something seasonal, perhaps to his sorrow. The Helles was – harmless.
Dinner time for Dr. Stan, Soup only for Hector, a token gesture. Kebap later, vielleicht.
I don’t know if the lady Host remembered us from November, her Deutsch was relentless, confirmation that Hector’s is evaporating. In Berlin spricht man Englisch.
I approached the other serving lady, translation in hand, to arrange a taxi back to Bamberg, and straight to Schlenkerla. That worked. For the reason described previously, Doug took the train.
At Schlenkerla, the room on the right, more Märzen, same serving Doris. Hunger declared, I advised Maggie as to which Meat & Cheese Platter to order. Advice ignored, what she got was not what she wanted, but was what she asked for. So it goes.
Being our third night, the staff knew we would depart, but not until the end. In the otherwise empty room, their last hour was relaxing, many people have work on a Monday.
An early night for Hector and there was a Kebap.
Monday, April 3
The morning was spent composing suitable words for Curry-Heute. Food of another type was had for lunch, the fifth day and the avoidance of Deutsche Essen continues.
Today’s rendezvous was – Mahrs at 15.00. For the first time in this trip, blue skies, but even lower temperatures, spring this was not. There was the opperchancity to take the classic photos of the Rathaus over the Regnitz.
As I approached Wunderburg I overtook Clive and Maggie:
You’ll never be at Mahrs for opening time walking at that pace.
They weren’t, Hector was first in and took the same seat at the same table that has been occupied for many a visit.
Your’e sitting alone, in the dark? – the Doris remarked in Deutsch.
I assured her I had three friends coming – sofort. She switched on the lights.
In all previous occupancies of this seat I have ordered – A-U – Jonathan and Dr. Stan among others had convinced me that his was – the Bier – to have. Today, I ordered the Helles. At 4.9%, yellow, clear and sharp, but probably from a keg. This was decidedly more-ish, as Dr. Stan confirmed when he eschewed the Ungespundet. He too thinks – A-U – has had its day.
The room filled, by 18.00 it was time for us to think about crossing the road. I did a recce to Keesmann, all tables booked. Clive repeated my action, same conclusion. Undeterred , the four of us hopped across the street. Frau Keesmann recognised us, tried to fit us in, three yes, four not possible. And so to Spezial.
Arriving first, I thought I had a table, but misread my own watch. It is an annoying feature of certain venues that they accept bookings and block off virtually the entire room. At Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt (Berlin) I now have the app to book in advance, research needed for Bamberg.
Fässla was open, but again all tables occupied/reserved. We squeezed on to the table in the lobby. More Lagerbier.
It became apparent that we had an adjacent inebriate the management were trying to evict. He could hardly speak, never mind walk, however, from somewhere his English became fluent. Many apologies, he departed, but still tried to get back in.
To my left sat a couple from USA, Andrew and Natalie. They met in Bamberg some years back on their tours of duty. With both Clive and Maggie having offspring who have served, the conversation blossomed, such that when I declared it time to move to Schlenkerla, they caught up with us there.
A pleasant end to the four days in Bamberg. Somehow, today we did not encounter any of the remaining B.S.F. crowd.
Tuesday, April 4
Dr. Stan headed west to Brussel via Köln. Clive and Maggie went south to München Flughafen, Hector headed north, Berlin calling. A timeous ICE had me at Berlin Hbf in time for the 15.00 at Ibis Mitte check-in, from there, the U Bahn to Osloer Strasse. In November 2022, Hector finally located the Punjabi Cuisine only previously dreamt of in Berlin. Today was Visit #4 to Punjabi Zaiqa.
Having arranged to meet Colin at Bräugier for 20.00, I had time for a quick half at Protokoll. Michel was not on duty, his lady colleague duly looked after me. A quick look at the board, there was a NEIPA which shouted loud and clear
Icons of Summer, 6.6%, my first Craft Beer of the trip, and the first with US Hops. There was an instant – Wow! The Hops I have yet to identify, the fruitiness, a sheer tropical delight, was in the face. This was a stunning Bier, so good, I had another.
My usual Berlin model is Bräugier one night, Protokoll the next, to tear oneself away was difficult. Why did I not book my flight back a day later? I cannot believe what I paid for tomorrow’s flight to Edinburgh, pre budget airline prices, maybe sense prevailed. There’s a holiday weekend approaching.
You’re early – was Colin’s greeting. We sat at the corner of the bar, Colin remains puzzled that the Berliners do not do this, always a table. That is how they are traditionally served.
The board showed three Hazy IPAs, Wrath of ? – I first had almost a year ago to the day. At 6.5%, described, by me, as Goddam-Zilla’s little brother, there is no further accolade required. And this was after Icons of Summer.
At the weekend, Colin predicted I should like Artificial Stupidity, a new release. At 6.6% the perfect abv. However, there was initially a shocking aftertaste which soon subsided. With five Hops, this was a complex Bier, Mosaic was in there, so all was well. I could have been happy with this but decided to try another newbie.
HopGPT at a mere 6.0% had a great hop balance. This was easy drinking, smooth on the palate, safe even. I went – large – then stuck with this for the rest of the evening.
Bruna arrived after a work related event. Glasgow, Bamberg, Berlin all within a two week period. Ironically, when Bruna and Colin visit Scotland later in the year, Hector will most likely be away!
Marg, Hector, Colin and Bruna do have something special planned for August!
