Lisboa – 2023 – Another Seven Days – April-May

Posted on April 27, 2023 by Hector

Thursday, April 27

Marg, Hector, and even Steve, David and Alison were in Lisboa last year, nothing blogged. This year the Hector is determined to update the hard work put in for the first trip here in 2020, weeks before the plague. 21 Gallas has been by far the best source of Bier in Lisboa, quality NEIPAs guaranteed. It was only after booking the full week here that I discovered that 21 Gallas was no more. Why, I was determined to find out. There are new venues to visit, and Outro Lado, the new kid on the block, also impressed last year. Then there’s Curry, last year I just scratched the surface of Rua do Benformoso. This year, Hector intends to do damage.

A Birthday Trip – yet the anniversary is not until Sunday, the day of the Scottish Cup semi-final at Hampden Park. Hector in Lisbon for a birthday, on Sunday the twist, favourable or otherwise, shall be revealed.

The three hour trip south from Porto this afternoon was comfortable. As the Portuguese insist that all over 65s can travel for half price, and #1 is only €10.00 a ticket (gross) dearer, then why not travel in comfort? Despite the rolling stock bearing the largest carriage numbers ever, some still managed to be in the wrong one. So it goes.

Accommodation in Lisboa is appreciably dearer this year. Or maybe Hector has learned where not to stay and pays accordingly. Last year, I managed to book an apartment directly outside the castle entrance. The climb home each evening was initially a killer, before we found shortcuts and elevators. This year, only a three minute walk up a slope from the main avenue – Avenida da Liberdade. An apartment famed for its secluded outside area and its fold-down bed.

The first pit-stop today was at Letraria da Anunciada, a pleasant place to stop and acclimatise in the shade to the extra few degrees Centigrade that Lisboa has over Porto. 32ºC, this is why we were here! Letraria, a few blocks from our apartment and opposite the funicular – Elevador do Lavra.

Letraria is a name well known to Hector given the number of visits to this Braga Brewery’s outlet in Porto. The terrace looked attractive, we took a corner table.

The waitress did not appear happy that soft drinks was all we required. A lukewarm bottle of Sparkling Water was brought, not much use today. I asked for ice, I may as well have asked for the moon. Eight years of retirement, occasionally, the schoolteacher voice emerges, Marg accused me of barking. The ice came, promptly.

Knowing that Lord Clive and Lady Maggie’s accommodation was adjacent to a funicular, I contacted them to verify their address. Theirs was across the valley bottom at Restauradores, fine, the remainder of the reply shocked. They had landed already, and I was led to believe they were coming tomorrow.

There was no water in the fountains at Praça dos Restauradores, still, there was the ritual photographs to be taken, similarly at the waterfront – Cais das Colunas. En route we passed the most famous lift in Lisboa – Elevador de Santa Justa, the queues were as long as ever. However, Hector draws the reader’s attention to the most useful means of gaining height on the west side of Lisboa from down-town – Baixa-Chiado. Through the archway entrance to the Metro lies a series of escalators, well try them for yourself, see where you end up.

With plenty of time before our unexpected rendezvous, Marg and Hector walked along the waterfront to Caix do Sodre. Here lies the ferry terminal for Cacilhas (Almada), and the train station for some western bound services.

More bunkers were required, a brief stop off at a pavement cafe presented a unique photo opperchancity – Yo, Ladies! – that’s a Bier glass!

Ticketed for 24 hours, it’s the sensible thing to do in Lisboa, we jumped on a bus two stops east to Rua dos Arameiros. From there – Outro Lado Craft Beer – is but a short hop.

I was glad to see two worthy Biers on the board, one had to be a winner: Nelson Sauvin (Funky Fluid, Polska) at a sensible 6.6%. We have Lockdown to thank for this being – sensible.

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Whilst I was at the bar, Clive and Maggie arrived, timing. Without consultation, two more Biers ordered, and an Aperol Spritz for Marg. Who invented this, it’s disgusting!

So good was the Nelson Sauvin, I decided that Verge (Funky Fluid, Polska), an 8.0% – NEDIPA – could wait for another day.

Nelson Sauvin has become a favourite hop, this full on Hazy IPA totally hit the spot. There was more! With two staff, the service was a bit hit and miss. The chap appeared easily distracted. Still, I knew we would be back here over the course of the coming week, I have yet to find the Bier choices here to be a let-down. Another bonus, the sound system was not manned this evening, last year we had to tolerate electro nonsense.

And so we sat until it was declared time to eat. Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, the main street outside Outro Lado, has extensive seating outdoors. All restaurants appeared full, it was time for the Portuguese to dine. I led the party back to the main drag north of Cais das Colunas, here we picked a way over-priced Italian restaurant – La Vita è Bella. There are no photos of Hector’s Seafood Spaghetti, or the moment when – crunch – and an upper back tooth disintegrated on a prawn.

Afterwards, Cerveja Canil was the obvious venue, a couple of blocks north and east. A Brewpub, their own Bier has yet to hit the spot. I keep missing Milkshake-style IPAs, so they have told me in the past. Tonight, nothing different.

Born in the IPA (Musa, Lisboa) at 6.5%, I’ve had previously – at source, almost. Brothers in Arms (Vandoma, Porto) a 7.0% NEIPA with Sabro hops, was too thin to be a Milkshake, fruity, and did not merit a photo, evidently.

This left Canil’s own Imperial IPA at 9.0%. Definitely a good night Bier, the amber, slightly hazy offering had malt coming through. Drinkable, nothing special.

With the number of taps at Canil, they should be doing better.

Clive and Maggie were willing to walk home, however, being a first night in a strange city, we escorted them back to Baixa-Chiado where the Blue and Green Metro lines intersect. One stop home for them, two for Hector and Marg. The Kebap shop on our street was still open, that may be one for a future evening.

Venues visited today:

Letraria da Anunciada – Largo da Anunciada 1, 1250-048 Lisboa

Outro Lado Craft Beer – Beco do arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa

La Vita è Bella – Rua da Prata 115, 1100-415, Lisboa

Cerveja Canil Baixa – Rua dos Douradores 133, 1100-204 Lisboa

Friday, April 28

Friday Prayers, not that the Hector is ever likely to attend, however, the number of times this coincides with Curry is uncanny. We arranged to meet Clive and Maggie at Martim Moniz Metro station, metres from Curry Heaven in Lisboa – Rua do Benformoso. Today, a new venue for Hector – Tasty Hut. Outstanding Curry as one has come to expect in this city, but having cocked up the portion size at the time of ordering, dinner would be required by us all later.  What have the locals got against Henry?

Thereafter, Metro tickets were renewed for the next twenty-four hours, the plan (Plan A) was to do Tram 28, however, the queue was ridiculous, six trams worth possibly. How do the locals who actually depend on this ever get on? Ah, they take the bus, or the Metro, as did we, dropping down one stop to Baixa-Chiado – Plan B.

Here, we took advantage of the escalators inside the mountain, returning to the area Marg and Hector stayed in Visit #1. It is still a climb from here up to Biarro Alto where Steve and Louise stayed back in 2020.

Cervejaria Artesanal Adamstor, the Craft Beer House has gone, as has the wonderful O Adrianou do Carno restaurant. A bit early for Bier and we had just eaten. Hector led the party past Ascensor da Bica, the funicular, to the Adamstor statue and the viewpoint. Thanks to the heat haze, not much of a view today, Ponte 25 de Abril, the Golden Gate – replica – was hardly worth a photo.

Having walked all of ten minutes, it was time for a seat, and a drink. A table with a potential view was secured at Quiosque do Adamstor. For Hector, Cider usually follows Curry, so why not. Olive had the local Super Bock, the ladies behaved, for the time being.

La Cucaracha! Barata (Portuguese) does not have the same impact. Marg warned me of the offending bug approaching. The size eleven sandal took care of it. There was a loud cheer from the adjacent German table, Marg was horrified when there seemed no end to the prolonged wriggling.

Back on Calçada do Combro, the main street which runs along the southern end of Biarro Alto, we stood at the Tram 28 stop. From here the fun part of the journey east begins, a roller coaster journey back to Martim Moniz looping round the eastern side of the old town.

After a twenty-plus minute wait, we concluded that there was something wrong, no trams were appearing. Plan C – the descent on Ascensor da Bica which was closed last year. Our tickets were valid, those buying a single journey were ripped off.

Buy a 24 hour ticket!

At the foot of the hill, which we walked up too often in 2020 before discovering the escalators, lies Musa da Bica. As far as I can make out this was once a Brewpub for Musa in the north-east of the city, but evidently now just a Taproom.

Breweries make up some crazy names for their produce, NEIPALM Death wins a watch. At 6.1% not too much for a late afternoon Bier. The haze was not full on, short of a milkshake, there was a fruitiness behind the hops. Pleasant, but not enough to want to move in here.

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The young girls behind the bar were marvellous, providing an array of choices for Marg. They hoped we would return, who knows where we’ll end up in the coming days?

A five minute walk to Cais de Sodre through a park took us to the same bus stop as yesterday. Outro Lado later tonight, in the meantime, a return to Crafty Corner, a bit of a steep climb, but not a long one.

Some time after 2020, Crafty Corner moved from near Cais de Sodre to the eastern side of the old town. Last year, the Bier did not particularly impress. In 2020 we found excellent NEIPA/DIPA, last year nothing better than West Coast APA. Last year the staff were, well, quite indifferent, compared to 2020. Today’s visit was a continuation of 2022, no interaction.

The best Bier on offer was Marine IPA (Dois Corvos, Lisboa) at 5.4%. Gold in colour, almost clear, this was decidedly West Coast in terms of high IBU. No nasties, not demanding, was noted. Again, not enough to keep us here.

I did ask a staff member about disappearance of my favourite: 21 Gallas Brewpub, no information about their closure was forthcoming. Hector Holmes will get an answer, eventually. We stayed for another Bier, except Maggie switched to Brehndee. (sic). Here we go.

The ladies needed food, the chaps probably did too, but once the Bier is pouring…

Having turned right last night on reaching Rua dos Bacalhoeiros and finding all restaurants full, tonight Hector applied some Stats & Geography (after Hotelling) the normal distribution and turned left. An inside table was secured at Adega do Atum, a proper Portuguese restaurant. Hector had that well known Portuguese delicacy – Seafood Paella, and to prove consistency, Marg had a Tuna Salad.

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The restaurant was ready to close by the time we departed, amazing how the eastern periphery of this street of eating places is markedly different from the west.

Now for the main event. Tonight no messing, Hector would have the Verge (Funky Fluid, Polska) DIPA at 8.0%, but only after a sensible Nelson Sauvin (Funkly Fluid, Polska).

Verge was stunning, a full on milkshake, smooth as a … a choice of superb Biers in the required style. Outro Lado, a worthy successor to 21 Gallas, albeit not a brewery tap (*).

The venues visited today:

Musa da Bica  –  Calçada Salvador Correia de Sá 2A, 1200-399 Lisboa

Crafty Corner  –  R. de São João da Praça 95, 1100-519 Lisboa

Outro Lado Craft Beer – Beco do arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa

Quiosque do Adamstor – Rua de Samata Catarina, 1200-109 Lisboa

Tasty Hut Halal food  –  Rua do Benformoso 151, 1100-084 Lisboa

Adega do Atum  –  Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 8c, 1100-070 Lisboa

Saturday, April 29

The eve of – The Birthday – today’s plan: to stay  until after midnight. Before then, some unfinished business. Having what felt like – Tapas – yesterday at Tasty Hut, today it was time to have the full Bhuna. Whilst Curry photos don’t usually appear in these pages, one photo does capture the mood.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos at Belém was the objective thereafter. In 2020, we saw the exterior. Then it was not known that – Vasco da Gama – is interred therein. The Belém navigator’s monument – Padrão dos Descobrimentos – would no doubt be celebrated again.

Last night, Clive and Maggie said they would do the bus tour of Lisboa. They didn’t and so would join us. I arranged to meet at a cafe in the park which we walked through last night at Cais do Sodre @15.30. This proved to be too big a test, around a half hour was lost trying to locate them even though at one point they were three metres away, inside (?) the train station. We need a proximity alarm.

Normally the modern tram would take us from Cais das Colunas to Belém, however, the line in the city centre has been ripped up. Cais do Sodre is therefore the present terminus. We headed west, under – Ponte 25 de Abril – which bears an uncanny resemblance to – The Golden Gate Bridge.

Arriving at Belém, the primary mission was still to visit Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and pay homage to Vasco da Gama, the man who IMHO facilitated the creation of what we now call – Curry. Alas, with a 17.00 closing time, and the queue still out the door, nae chance. Next time, an early morning pre-booked ticket

As with Visit #1, we walked along the waterfront, taking photos as and when the gaps in the crowd permitted. The monument to the navigators remains impressive, and our travel companions finally appreciated a photo canvas in Hector’s House.

Some were hungry, Hector less so. Having stopped at Portugália Cervejaria last time, why not return?

For Hector, a Starter, Prawn in Garlic. Can the Hector have enough seafood? Marg went overboard. In the midst of ordering a glass of Mateus Rosé, she ended up with the bottle, to herself. She may have received assistance in time.  I cannot believe I did not take photos of the live lobsters, next time.

At the end of the tram ride back, instead of going to the centrum, Hector led the troops to LoveCraft Gastropub, a few doors west of Musa da Bica where the queue for the funicular was outrageous. LoveCraft is a Portuguese – gipsy – brewery.

A – Gastropub – in other words it served Burgers. I have reached the stage where Burgers and/or Pizza is the food of the last resort. Is this what the masses are destined to eat forever? Throw in some Spicy Chicken Wings and the Hector may be tempted. Maybe the conservative food was a reflection of the Bier choice also. With ten taps representing a range of Bier for different nations, plus a fridge with T.E.A. – Traditional English Ale, in theory, something for everyone. This – one – as ever was hoping for NEIPA but had to settle for West Coast. I was surprised when this turned into a two Bier stop.

Bah! Cascais (Bah Craft Beer, Portugal) is a 6.0% APA. At 50 IBU, it was gold, clear, dry, and not exciting in any way. Importantly no nasties were tasted.

This was followed by LoveCraft’s own Lupina, another APA, this time a more Amber-Gold at 6.4%. An IBU of 21 was reported, it tasted much higher, drier as West Coast APAs tend to be.

Fed, watered, it was back on the bus along the front, Outro Lado was calling once more, as was more Verge by Funky Fluid (Polska).

However, there was a surprise waiting, a NEDIPA at 8.4% , IVY from Xül Beer Co. (Tennessee, USA) featuring Citra and Citra Cryo hops. This was as smooth as a … a sublime Bier.

What finer way to bring in one’s birthday?

Why was the Hector feeling so nervous?

The Bars and Restaurants visited today:

LoveCraft Gastropub – Lisboa – Rua da Boavista 28, 1200-067 Lisboa

Portugália Cervejaria – Edificio Espelho d’Agua, avenida Brasilai S/N, 1400-038

Outro Lado Craft Beer – Beco do arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa

Tasty Hut Halal food  –  Rua do Benformoso 151, 1100-084 Lisboa

Sunday, April 30

The birthday card from Marg was appropriate as always. However, for once, there was to be no Curry-Heute. My intended venue is closed on Sundays. Hector’s 67th birthday in Lisbon and there’s an Old Firm Scottish Cup semi-final kicking off at 13.30. Which of the gods arranged this?

We needed a Sports Bar, The George had a good royal, British name, but check the address below. Clive and Maggie had secured a table and were arranging lunch. Hector had no appetite. With a Ginger Beer and a decent view, all was going well. Then we were informed that due to satellite box limitations, our TV would be switched over to a lesser match involving English teams on the half hour mark.

We left, gained altitude with the nearby Baixo-Chiado escalators, and tracked down Cervejaria Do Bairro which was empty. The match was arranged, meanwhile Rangers’ inept defending once again saw a goal lost on the 42nd minute mark. Game over. Happy Birthday, not.

We had the run of the place until some English chaps came in for their game. Cervejaria – but no Craft Beer. There was draught Cider, but Hector had not just had Curry. A typical pub as Europeans see it. At least I had avoided an Irish Bar.

We have never been up this particular part of the hill, i.e. the slope that is Bairro Alto. Fado music is reported here Traditional nightlife we have yet to do in Lisboa. There are some interesting eating places to be explored.

Walking back down to Luis de Camões, the square adjacent to Largo do Chiado, the top end of the, almost secret, Baixo-Chiado metro entrance, Hector’s Horrible Holiday resumed. It was time for Tram 28.

Standing room only, we did the roller-coaster ride down-town, round the east side of Alfama, the old town, alighting at Martim Moniz, the terminus. Having already passed the viewpoint at Miradouro de Santa Luzia, we retraced our journey by taking the near empty castle bus (737 – Castelo) from Praça Figueira back up the hill, smart move.

Today, a blue sky and no haze. Marg gave me into trouble for barking at a couple with a wean who appeared to be taking root at the obvious spot from which to take photos.

Are you going to stand there all day?

I was still not a Happy Hector.

Despite the throng, we managed a tram back down to the centrum. On the south side of Praça Figueira lies Marg’s favourite coffee and cake shop – Confeitaria Nacional. There was cake for the Hector. Fitting.

Maggie needed shoes, just like that. Actually, she had been slipping with her inadequate footwear for days. Bad planning. This interrupted the next trek up flights of steps and another slope, of course, to – The Queen Ale – Craft Beer Bar. What a royal day it could have been.

 

Two chaps were behind the bar, no other customers, it was but late afternoon. Friends of staff did join them at adjacent tables once we were settled. This was a two Bier stop.

First up, a Spanish NEIPA appropriately named Smooth (Peninsula, Espana) at 7.2%. With a decent milkshake haze, this lived up to its name. The hops were quite pronounced: Verdant, Elaborado con Bru-1, El Dorado and Talus. The latter was not an issue.

Despite having tasters of the Lush Yield (The Drowned Lands, New York, USA), a 6.5% NEIPA it was initially declined due to the aftertaste. Somehow, after the Smooth, the palate had adjusted, and why not? Simcoe, Citra and New Zealand Cascade were the hops.

The Queen Ale looks like a place to keep an eye on. If today was typical, then they have Bier – in-the-style. There was an interesting fridge also, but who wants this Scottish brewed Irn Bru in a Bier? Had we stayed longer, then hopefully we would have had more interaction with the staff. There will be a next time.

Time for food, a Birthday dinner. I led the peeps down to the west and a street Marg and Hector have walked oft, but only ever stopped for ice-cream. Rua das Portas de Santo Antão runs parallel to Avenue da Liberdade, lots of traditional Portuguese restaurants line the street.

We chose Inhaca, a table outside with space such that those who pollute would not be right up against us. Our first alfresco meal of this trip. It was time for Hector to have Catapla- na. My fellow diners wimped out. A bottle of Mateus Rosé had to be also, this time Marg shared more.

Our waiter brought a jar of something – red and Spicy – as we were finishing the Bread and Olives.

Clive took but a Soupçon, the Hector liberally covered his roll. Never, have I put something this – hot – in my mouth. Bloody hell! I knew that grabbing liquid was the worst possible thing to do, grin and bear it, let it subside, eventually it will pass. In time, recovery, and a glass of wine. Time to use the facilities, and this time I did take a photo of the lobster. Had I just experienced what he was about to?

The mains were being presented, the Birthday Boy’s came last.

Is that it?

Hector had been set up.

Fear not, the Cataplana soon arrived. Never have I eaten so much crab and lobster, as well as the fish. A wonderful meal, including the wind up. Having written these words, it is mandatory that we shall return to Inhaca, this is how Marg and Hector operate.

Being Sunday, Outro Lado was reportedly closed, strange. But always check when feet are on the ground. We had yet to visit Duque Brewpub on this trip. We headed up the stairs behind Rossio-Lisboa train station, quite a climb. No heart attacks.

Hector arrived many minutes before the cohort, the best Bier on offer was ordered, plus Sparkling Water for Marg, confirmed by phone.

I asked the girl behind the bar if she knew anything of 21 Gallas. A result! On showing my dedicated page, it turned out the girl in that photo was a relative. The brewer has gone back to Brasil which may explain why locally brewed NEIPA is in short supply this trip.

Iparactivo (Duque, Lisboa) is a 6.5% West Coast IPA. Once the palate had adjusted to the higher IBU, the fruitiness came across. As good a Bier as I have had at Duque, the source.

There was more, guess who was last out? For whatever reason, the staff had to close up, plastic was provided so that we could finish outside. In trying to get the photo sorted, the plastic was dropped. Fear not, the Bier was replenished. Clive was well impressed by Duque, despite the long climb up. There has to be an easier approach.

Back on the Metro, two stops home. The hill up to our apartment suddenly felt like but a mound.

The Brewpub, bars and restaurants visited today:

The George – Rua do Crucifixo 58 66, 1100-184 Lisboa

Cervejaria Do Bairro – Rua das Gáveas 97, 1200-287 Lisboa

Confeitaria Nacional – Praça da Figueira, Praça Dom Pedro IV 18B, 1100-241 Lisboa

The Queen Ale – Craft Beer Bar – Largo do Tab. 9, 1150-344 Lisboa

Inhaca Restaurant – Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 8, 1150 Lisboa

Duque Brewpub – Calçada do Duque 51, 1200-156 Lisboa

 

Monday, May 1

We had guests for brunch! Clive and Maggie made their way up, what now feels like a small incline, to our accommodation which features a huge private yard at the rear. Thereafter, it was back on the Metro to Cais do Sodré and the ferry across to Cacilhas (Almada). I like this ferry crossing, it’s short.

At the halfway point, Hector secured a decent photo of Ponte 25 de Abril. On arrival, the submarine was the big attraction.

We were about to negotiate a discounted pensioner entry when I spotted another sign, ah well. Next time.

On our first visit to Cacilhas, Marg and Hector famously shared our first mammoth Fish Stew, so last night. Today, light refreshments sufficed. There was an attempt to have snack at a cafe near the ferry, however, never have I met such incompetent staff. Pointing and grunting is kind of old hat. A young chap was sent out to communicate, I doubt if he understood Portuguese never mind English. Cognitively challenged – as they say in this age of sensitivity.

At our pit-stops, the Hector was busy planning a trip to Óbidos, preferably for tomorrow. Somewhat surprisingly, a tour company did come straight back to me confirming availability. However, the more research that was done, it became obvious – take the service bus.

Back on the mainland, time to revisit a potentially excellent Craft Beer House. In 2020, Sputnik sold Bier by 21 Gallas which was just up the hill behind it. This time, another Lisboa brewery would provide the closest to the Hector idyll.

Weekend (Dois Corvos, Lisboa) at 6.5%, ia Hazy IPA, confused. The first Bier out did not impress, thin for the abv and not particularly hazy, the second was way better. With Citra, El Dorado, and Mosaic, more of a tangerine dream than a true NEIPA.

Rua do Benformoso is just a couple of blocks south of Sputnik, time for an evening Curry. Tonight, Hector chose Radhuni. More wonderful Curry, though I believe Marg and Hector ate each other’s.

Thereafter, the short walk down to Martim Moniz, it’s as if Hector has a master-plan for each day, and behold, Tram 28 was quiet. This was the long way round to Brewery Tap – 8a Colina, the scenic route. Arriving at sunset, there was the opperchancity to experiment with the Oppo. Some decent results.

Marg wanted coffee, the surly chap would only supply espresso, declined.

The board was not that exciting, once again it was Urraca Vendaval, a 6.0% IPA in the West Coast style. I’ve this a few times, it is fine. It was of course, the first Bier of this trip!

 

 

With the knowledge that better Bier was available down the hill, it was back on Tram 28, in the same direction of travel, alighting just above Outro Lado. More Polish NEIPA, at least we know it’s always on. Tonight, we managed a seat in the raised seating area.

A long day, a bigger one tomorrow, an early night.

The brewery taps and restaurant visited today:

Sputnik Craft Beer  –  Rua Andrade 41A, 1170-014 Lisboa

8a Graça (Oitava Colina) – Rua Damasceno Monteiro 8A, 1170-112 Lisboa

Outro Lado – Beco do Arco EsSputnik Craft Beer – Rua Andrade 41A, 1170-014 Lisboacuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa

Radhuni – Rua do Benformoso 155 A B, 1100-084 Lisboa

Tuesday, May 2

It was – Dan the Man – our guide on the Canyonlands school trip of 2010, who first made Hector aware of the mediaeval town – Óbidos. But how to get there? Four people on an organised tour was throwing away money. Train was a possibility, too slow and infrequent. The – Rapida Verde – coach service from the main bus station could be the way.

We arranged to meet Clive and Maggie at Telheiras, the northern end of the green Metro line. Today turned out to be the first days of major works on this line. Trains had halved in size and were stopping short at Campo Grande.

The bus station was easy to locate, but clearly this was for local service buses. Marg was set to approach the portakabin ticket office, the Hector found a map showing the coach station nearby. En route we picked up Clive and Maggie.

As is the norm, it was the Hector who found the correct bus stand and in a few minutes the timeous coach sped north towards Óbidos.

A modest fare, a quicker journey, all was well. The money we saved by taking this route as opposed to an organised trip would cover the cost of lunch. The only concern: what if all of Óbidos want to come back to Lisboa at the same time as us?

Arriving at Óbidos, there was an appropriate wow! Here was a classic walled town on a raised ground, surveying all. A games fair was being set up, hence the electric sign being lowered adjacent to the gateway, and a bubble-like construction being erected in the town square.

Having stopped to appreciate the internal artwork in the gateway and the ethereal music, it was a case of take the high road or the low. Research en route had revealed a better choice of eating places on Josefa, and so we found ourselves dining alfresco at XII Apóstolos. Cash only.

Many of the buildings in Óbidos are painted light blue and white, there was a feeling of being in Hellas. Photo opperchancities were aplenty, however, there was a limit to how much of the interior of Óbidos we could visit.

A hotel, which I understand cater for golfers, occupies the far end of the town. One assumes another entrance. The exit in the wall, on the railway side of the town, created a funnel for the breeze turning it into quite a pleasant blast. This phenomenon I shared with passers by, some who were wilting in the heat.

This unfortunately included Maggie who soon headed off with Clive in search of shade. They took refuge at Petrarum Domus Bar where cold, yellow, fizzy lager was served. Quite a place, we had it to ourselves. If one was here of an evening, this could well be the place – to dine.

The 16.15 bus back to Lisboa was the obvious one to take, Thereafter, there’s a two our gap in the timetable. If the bus was full, a train around 20.00 was an option. However, the Hector had a fallback which included a taxi to Caldas da Rainha, from where the subsequent bus would depart.

Despite the small crowd that had gathered, we were easily accommodated on the coach.

Back in Lisboa, the disruption to the Metro meant journeying three sides of the square to reach the Mean Sardine Taproom. Alighting at Campo Pequeno (yellow line), we found ourselves in the bowels of a shopping centre – Baia do Peixe. Dead reckoning towards the north-east was all I had to go on. Eventually, we emerged into daylight, and across an open piece of ground lay this previously unvisited venue.

With twelve taps and a choice of NEIPA, so far so good. Suprassumo (5.0%) was not on. The staff weren’t bothered. There was no word of it returning, complete indifference. We were left with the other 5.0% NEIPA – Triton whose efficacy I have to challenge. With only the slightest haze, this was far too sharp tasting, the wrong mouthfeel. Nelson Sauvin hops were allegedly featured, so where was the hop hit?

Moving on was the obvious move, however, it was – Happy Hour – buy one get one free! We had to stay for the second. The ladies required food. Burger and fries, the usual pub fayre, though the Dessert looked more interesting.

Disregarding the somewhat minimalist décor, Mean Sardine Taproom is a spacious venue, a place one could be happy to spend an evening. But if they cannot change a Bier…

I let Clive and Maggie choose our next and final venue for the evening. Surprisingly, Crafty Corner was chosen, back for more Urraca IPA (8a Colina, Lisboa). Having had Urraca here and at source, maybe we were becoming accustomed to this APA. Tonight’s visit turned out to be a breakthrough.

Finally, there was a sense of recognition, we were not just tourists passing through. Patrick, Mein Host, engaged, we discussed the original venue and the move west. The good news, NEIPAs do make an appearance here. Given the proximity to Outro Lado, this means Crafty Corner will always be visited. The challenge – keep us here for the night.

The brewery tap, bars and restaurant visited today:

XII Apóstolos – R. Josefa de Óbidos 7, 2510-077 Óbidos

Petrarum Domus Bar – R. Direita 38, 2510-039 Óbidos

Mean Sardine Taproom – Campo Pequeno 41A, 1000-080 Lisboa

Crafty Corner – Rua. de São João da Praça 95, 1100-519 Lisboa

Wednesday, May 3

The final day of this trip began with some blogging whilst Marg was out for her daily exercises. The hills of Lisboa have certainly made us all fitter. According to a well known and reliable Curry Blog, we arrived at Radhuni at 12.30, the mission was to solve the mystery: did Marg and I eat each other’s Curry two nights back?

Thereafter it was a short walk north of Rua do Benformoso to a coffee shop that appeared worthy. Malabarista Café may have been simple in décor, but delivered. Such is our way, this venue could well be revisited on a future Lisboa trip.

Sensing that our fellow travellers could be melting, we arranged to meet for ice-cream at 15.00. Being Mr. Garrett’s birthday, where better than Amorino Lisboa Garrett? This involved a walk up the hill behind Baixa-Chiado, logically, it was downhill on the way back. In fact, we managed to avoid any serious hills thereafter. It’s almost as though someone knew what they were doing.

I don’t often get the chance to rave about hot melted Chocolate. I understand that this is how Chocolate was first consumed, by the elite who could afford it, before the fondant and Chocolate bar was invented. Yes, I have been to a Belgian Chocolate Museum, one has to keep Marg amused in the afternoons.

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Bier o’clock

The Beer Station had yet to be visited on this trip. Usually they have APA, not NEIPA, but one never knows.

As expected, the tap Bier was not setting the heather on fire, Tasters dismissed. The young lady serving produced a can: Captao Leitao (Dois Corvos, Lisboa), an Oat Cream NEIPA at 6.0%. With the full milkshake haze and full of Strata, Idaho 7 and Citra hops, there was a slight fruitiness, but it certainly did the job.

Having visited the Dois Corvos brewery taproom on our first visit to Lisboa, it was regarded as a bit of a hike, buses required. Why is it that only at the time of writing do I discover – Dois Corvos Intendente Taproom in downtown Lisboa? It’s en route to Sputnik Craft Beer, we must have walked past it!

Our day suddenly got a whole lot better. The charming lady produced another can, this time a collaboration: Slava Ukraini! (Ophiussa, Setabul, Portugal / The Bad Beaver, Kyiv, Ukraine). At 8.0%, this DDH DIPA had it all! The full milkshake haze was a result of Nelson Sauvin, Sabro, and Citra. And no, the Sabro was not in our faces, but was suitably subdued. This was a glorious Bier!

Logic suggests we should have stayed put, but not with the ladies in tow – we need food!

It was a short hop from Rossio back across to the cluster of restaurants east of Restauradores. Restaurante A Lota was our chosen venue for the last supper, more alfresco dining.

Eurofizz for the chaps, Maggie sneaked in a cocktail. Wot, no Mateus Rosé? The Hector was determined to finish the trip with another Big Pot, this time – Arroz no Tacho – Salmon & Prawns, a BIG it certainly was. We ate well, as is illustrated.

Knowing we would certainly need transport to the airport, the 24 hour ticket was renewed, and for the final time, we headed round to Terreiro do Paço and Outro Lado.

You think you know a place having been most nights, I was not prepared for our final evening in Lisboa. Tonight, no Polish NEIPA, instead I studied the fridge.  The top British brewers usually feature, Track (Manchester, England) being typical. Slava Ukraini! – was easy to spot, but that’s not where I started. Mein Host, Abdo, was now familiar, he suggested I try one of their own. Outro Lado now brew? They do, mostly strong Stouts/Porters as the board shows. These I had not paid attention to and so had not made the connection. Abdo produced a can.

Opheodrys (Aguarela-Outro Lado, Lisboa) –  NZ DIPA / NEDIPA, full of Nelson Sauvin and 8.0%! This was quite a demanding Bier, nothing nasty, just full on. If this is the future of Outro Lado, then we have an added dimension to visiting what is the finest bar in Lisboa.

With the airport in mind, this was not a late night, however, there had to be time for more cans: Slava Ukraini!

The brewery tap, bar, cafes and restaurants visited today:

The Beer Station  –  Largo duque de Cadaval 17 Quiosque D, 1200-160 Lisboa

Outro Lado – Beco do Arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa

Malabarista Café – Specialty Coffee – R. Maria 66B, 1170-213 Lisboa,

Amorino Lisboa Garrett – Rua Garrett 49, 1200-203 Lisboa, Portugal

Restaurante A Lota – : Rua do Jardim do Regedor 15, 1150-193 Lisboa

Radhuni – Rua do Benformoso 155 A B, 1100-084 Lisboa

Posted in Almada, Lisboa | Comments Off on Lisboa – 2023 – Another Seven Days – April-May

Porto – Gaia – Portugal – The 2023 Birthday Trip

Posted on April 24, 2023 by Hector

Monday, April 24

Glasgow Airport delivers a new route to Porto, Hector had to try this. Hopefully no more middle of the night rises for the easyJet flight from Edinburgh to Lisboa.

Unlike our arrival in Lisboa last year where it took more than one hour to clear Passport Control, Marg, Steve and Hector almost waltzed through Porto Airport. Having found the Metro station at the Airport, purchasing tickets was frustrating, not enough working machines. We were beckoned on to a waiting train to the city, a lovely chap was keen to show us the routes and Trindade interchange on the diagram. Hector has been here before, on the Athens Metro. The chap’s hands were hidden, suddenly the zip on the pocket containing my wallet was down. Zips & Chains: Hector now has a secondary line of security, the tug gave it away. He knew he had been foiled, tapped everyone else on the back and headed off to try elsewhere. Welcome to Porto!

We arrived at our accommodation directly outside São Bento terminus station. 22°C, this is why were were here. Suitably attired, it was back to the train station to purchase tickets for the onward journey to Lisboa on Thursday. Steve flies home from Porto on Friday. The tiled walls of São Bento were admired once more. Last year we took shelter from a downpour, no sign of rain today.

Hector led the troupe down Rua das Flores, the pedestrianised street which leads down towards the River Douro. There were cries of – need food – from my fellow travellers. Shaded tables were taken outside a cafe. A snack was the plan, dinner later. Special Hot-dog (€7.50)? I wondered what differentiated this from the standard €5 version. Now that I know, I strongly advise that people stay clear. A Frankfurter in a bun, however, Cheese and Ham were also present. Doesn’t sound too bad? Then smother in Tomato Soup, and put Fries on the side. For Hector, dinner was no longer a priority.

The walk along the north bank of the Douro is spectacular, the bridges and Gaia across the water. We agreed to leave the other side until tomorrow.

After the ritual photos, Marg required ice-cream. What a miserable portion. Steve and Hector had – Port.

Getting to the Douro is relatively simple, it’s downhill all the way. Getting back up, well, there are buses, however, no metro station is accessible without a steep climb. A new Metro line is under construction, this could take years. Porto badly needs a mass transit system to get people off the riverside

Knowing the lie of the land, Hector led the party beyond the Ponte Luis I to the queue at Funicular dos Guindas. €4.00 each, taking us up behind São Bento and the cathedral. No sweat, literally.

It was Bier o’clock. Two venues stood out that I had not spotted last year. Alvares Brewery Co. Taproom and Baobab – Craft Beer Bar. They are next door to each other on Rua do Almada to the north-west of Aliados Metro station. On the walk up, we passed Baixada Brewery & co on the same street. I have never found Baixada to be open.

The Alvares Taproom first. On examining the board, there was not much representation of Alvares Bier. Steve and Hector both had the tried and tested Urraca Vendval (8a Colina, Lisboa) 6.0% AIPA at source. The relatively high IBU registered on the palate, quite a departure from the string of Two by Two (Wallsend, England) and Almasty (Newcastle upon Tyne, England) NEIPAs we have been lucky too imbibe currently at The State Bar, Glasgow.

The young chap behind the bar was happy to discuss Bier. On asking after NEIPA, he led me to the fridge where there were some Alvares cans on display. The Lost City of El Dorado at 6.0%, featured Mosaic and El Dorado Hops, now we’re talking. Alas, there were only two cans of this Hazy IPA left in the fridge. Steve had something else, he missed out. This was easily the best Bier I have ever had in Porto.

Alvares‘ actual NEIPA was featured on posters, some empty cans were on display. What’s the story here, they don’t have their own Bier?

Trying to judge my companions resilience, I suggested we move next door, hopefully there would be a big and satisfying conclusion to the evening. The welcome at Baobab was warm. Marg spotted – one year – balloons. Baobab had just celebrated their first birthday. Suzy and Dendy from Slovakia, took the brave step of leaving their homeland to establish a business in the up and coming Craft Beer scene in Porto.  They confirmed that Alvares have been in situ less than a year. Marg insisted she had been there last year, QED. Somehow, the latter has been granted outdoor seating, Baobab has not, and there is encroachment. FYI: Baixada reportedly keep strange hours.

With eight taps and a varied board, the Double NEIPA stood out. Dance O(u)r Dance at 8.6% (IberWolf, Maia, Porto), a hazy gold, was almost muddy. There was nothing nasty here, which may be criterion #1, but after the Mosaic-laden IPA next door, this was not doing very much.

There was a fine display of Cans in the fridge, however, Steve and I both opted for the house Bier: Zimborka (Baobab- Barona, Porto), a 4.5% Sour. Cranberry Sour with Juniper, to be precise. Suitably – pink – this was not an in your face Sour. A decent palate cleanser between IPAs, something working at G-RAF has taught me over the years. G-RAF, I’ll have to make my mind up soon as to how many hours/days to commit to.

Tomorrow is a national holiday in Portugal – Freedom Day. Suzy and Dendy were taking a much needed day off. We promised to return on Wednesday.

Two minutes around the corner, with a walk which inevitably featured both up and down, lies A Fábrica da Picaria Cervejaria artisanal, my favourite venue from last time in Porto. Their 6.0% – Milkshake IPA – was the highlight last year. It was still posted on the board above the bar, but not on the side board. No Milkshake IPA. Instead a 6.0% APA which despite only being marginally hazy, packed a fruity punch.

With seats established through the back, the Bier kept coming. The nomenclature for the downstairs facilities amused last year. They have taken it down, boo!

I took on the younger of the serving chaps who I thought I had recognised. He spotted himself in the photos posted from last year. Wesley assured me that next week, Picaria will be brewing another Milkshake featuring Lactose. 

Not the conclusion to the evening I had hoped for. Had Alvares stocked more of the right Cans, I may have led my companions back there. Downhill on the way home, we could hear a major firework display. We arrived at Aliados to see the final flurry, a bit like Marg and Hector in Paris one Independence Day.

Tuesday, April 25

Marg was out exploring, exercising early. One cannot play hockey and not train. With Metro tickets recharged, we headed out to Sete Bicas and the Norte Shopping Mall where lies a Curry House. Chutnify (Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin) impressed, Chutnify Canteen in Porto did not. Read all about it!

We had arranged to meet Steve at Serra do Pilar, the white tower and viewpoint at Gaia. I saw no point in giving away our height advantage needlessly. Steve had been off on a boat trip and so had no choice but to climb the gorge wall. Somehow we arrived at the ramp up to Serra do Pilar simultaneously. Steve did admit he spent some time trying to find the way up the last bit.

The viewpoint is magnificent, and way better photos were secured today compared to last year. From there, we took a less obvious path down to the riverside. Port – was the objective. Taylor’s if our route took us far enough inland, otherwise Sandeman. These are the two we knew, however, at Sandeman’s what I had read online held. They’re only interested in hosting tours then sampling, no walk-ins. We found a table in the shade at a cafe next door to Sandeman’s. Beira Douro would satisfy our needs. Rather than pay for Port by the glass, the young waiter said he would declare the price of the bottle for each of the Ports listed. €17.50 for a bottle of Dalva – Ruby Porto at 19.0% seemed good value, especially being at a waterfront location.

Our waiter brought four glasses, one was for demonstration. We had ordered soft drinks also, the step count today was already significant. Marg did have a glass or so before ordering Coffee. Steve and Hector tore in.

This was the life, shade from the bright sunshine, Port at source, watching the river traffic, as well as being entertained by the passing musician. How does the reputation of Port differ from Buckfast and El Dorado? Better marketing!

Bier o’clock was approaching. Hector had a plan which avoided walking back uphill. Cask Beer is the only venue at sea level. It is of course back in Porto, a twenty minute walk was required. There were a few notes of discontent, Hector had another plan. Uber quoted €3.50 to take us to Cask Beer. This was a no brainer, another Uber could get us uptown later, sorted.

Jose was able to pick us up outside Beira Douro, anywhere else on the waterfront and this would not have been possible.

Due to the limited road crossings, Jose had to drive upstream to the next high bridge, by this time his music had stimulated conversation. Marg asked if he had heard – Pendragon. His phone was passed back, alas another artist called Pendragon was broadcast. Hang on: Arena’s – Hanging Tree (Clive Nolan plays keyboards in both bands) popped up. We were treated to this eight minute epic from Marg’s favourite Prog album. Thereafter the algorithm took over. Some Fish, then Road of Bones (IQ) appeared on the dashboard, another eight minutes. Yes we were well stuck in traffic, every junction a bottleneck. Walking would have been quicker. We were dropped of at Cask Beer eventually, I promised Jose a tip. Uber charged us another €3.50 due to the unexpected length of the journey in terms of time. Porto needs to get its transport system in order.

Cask Beer had only been open a matter of days when Hector and Marg visited last year. Mein Host welcomed us, but did not remember our visits. Today, a choice of NEIPAs. Steve went Spanish, Hector back to Berlin. FrauGruber’s Hop Madley at 6.5% appeared to be right up Hector’s tree. After the Port, it took a time to taste anything significant. Another proved to be more rewarding.

Steve was settling in. Marg was having Lindemann’s Framboise one of the few Biers she likes. Hector had two more venues in mind, close to each other, but across town, and very much uphill. Another Uber was ordered. I watched it approach on the app, then stop. No communication was forthcoming. Eventually I discovered an issue with the processing of Jose’s tip. Hector had been frozen out. Time for another Bier.

This time, Hector went Spanish, Steve had been enjoying Boat Drinks (Basqueland Brewing Project, Espana). At 6.0%, another full on milkshake hazy NEIPA which I found to be sweeter than its Berlin counterpart.

Food was ordered, Marg got herself Ribs, Chicken Wings for Hector. Whatever a Black Burger is, Steve had it. I might wake up tomorrow with feathers.

Armazémda Ceveria has only been visited briefly, around the corner lies Letraria Porto where fun appears to be guaranteed. Well it was our local last year, being close to the Ibis. Given the passage of time, I declared Letraria as our next venue. Another Uber was summoned, there was no problem apart from the driver not being able to find the low road on which Cask Beer is sited. Away she went, back she came. And what a route to Letraria, we saw another part of the city not seen before. With SatNav in vogue, presumably the optimum route was taken. Porto needs to sort out its road network. Still, €6.28 between three, not a problem.Two chaps were behind the bar in the otherwise quiet premises.

Letraria has most of its seating downstairs where there is a duplicate set of taps. Twenty four taps, five possibly – in the style. Tasters were forthcoming, Rebendita (Letra, Braga, Portugal) at 6.0%, a Milkshake IPA became the final Bier of the day. We had another.

Downstairs we went, with the door to the garden open it was a bit chilly. Back upstairs, the only low table was occupied by a chap with a laptop. It turned out he was – The Boss – and was doing the accounts. There was no interaction despite being propped at the window beside him for a good hour or so. A pity. Rather than take the Metro home, it was decided, by others, that we would walk. Fortunately it was all downhill. En route we passed Fábrica Nortada, a brewpub I visited last year and a possible venue to watch tomorrow’s football.

Wednesday, April 26

Today, the Bus Tour of Porto. Marg had sourced the information from an agent across from the accommodation. €22.00 for a twenty four hour ticket. Do the buses run all night?

Having bought the tickets, I insisted we have a snack before embarking into the unknown. Marg took me to a cafe opposite São Bento in which she had coffee earlier. Mornings? Marg goes for exercise, Hector writes up this stuff.

The first half hour of the Bus Tour covered the area we had seen last night in our taxis tours. Sitting upstairs in the open, it was time for – the hat – securely attached, of course.

As we headed westwards through Boavista, it became apparent that the commentary was out of sync with events happening. What tower, what office? I think it is fair to say that away from the gorge, Porto ain’t all that interesting. Boavista, we didn’t even see the stadium.

We alighted at the furthest extremity of the tour and walked back to the next pickup point, along Praia de Matosinhos. Hector put a finger in the Atlantic, enough already.

We could see the next bus and so did not dally at the castle – Forte de São Francisco Xavier. We considered alighting at the next castle – Fortaleza São João da Foz, but could see nobody in it from our vantage point.

So back along the coast road, the Tourist Tram ran parallel, this may be as good as any means of getting our to the west of Porto and the beaches. The 500 Bus, even easier.

As we approached the city centre, it was matter of finding a new Bier venue. Gulden Draak Bierhuis Porto was in the right part of town, the same locale as the cluster of Bier houses visited on Monday night. I let Steve know our plans.

Alighting at São Bento which restored our altitude, we went to see Mr. Garrett’s Statue in daylight. A pity that Porto’s main square is in such disarray, but as  I may have hinted, the new Metro line is much needed.

The tap Bier at Gulden Draak was either not for Hector or OTT Tripels. Tripel Van De Garre (De Garre, Brugge, Belgien) at a mere 11.5%, has been had oft at source since 1997. It did take almost two hours to drink, but as we were the only customers at the 17.00 opening time, who cared?

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Marg and Hector were having Portuguese food tonight. Lagostim, visited last year, proved to be good value, even for the wine. Steve was waiting outside for us as they opened at 19.00.

What of Steve today? Having decided not to join us for the Bus Tour, he changed his mind and so was around an hour behind us. He concurred with the poverty of information and synchronisation.

At Lagostim, Steve had Steak, Marg – Salmon – and Hector – Duck. All very Portuguese. The Mateus Rose most certainly was.

With F.C. Porto playing away from home in a Cup semi-final, I decided to abandon plans to go to Nortada. I needed a Sports Bar. Bonaparte Downtown appeared to tick the boxes, it was not far away, and I had a fall back.

Now the story gets bizarre. Dr. Alasdair and Mags from Carnoustie arrived in town today with two other couples. For a change, I didn’t have to feed all of Carnoustie. I managed to have them check Bonaparte, the match was on. As expected, Manchester City – thrashed – Arsenal, or so Sky News would later describe.

Bonaparte was a – pub – selling Guinness, but without try to be a – Plastic Paddy – outfit. Nay flags, interesting wall adornments instead. Just like every pub back home, as foreigners see it.

Born in the IPA (Musa, Lisboa, Portugal) has been had oft, even at source. A 6.5% IPA, it is a darker gold and has a refreshing Citrus flavour, West Coast in style, but not extreme. Dr. Alasdair was drinking Paulaner Weizen (München, Bayern), his friends, the local Super Bock.

There was a degree of catching up, it is some two weeks since Marg and I were in Carnoustie. It was only then we realised that there was an overlap in our schedules. Cool dudes are in Porto in April.

The Five Doctors and Mags were fetched by an Uber, Steve was for calling it a night, then a G&T appeared. Still hoping for some more – real Bier – I suggested we walk up to Baobab with Alvares Taproom as a fallback. Baobab was open, staffed by Suzy alone, Alvares was shut. The lights were on at Baixada, but of course, the door was locked, despite the TV being still on and nobody at home.

The night cap was a Coconut Maple Imperial Stout – Coconuts (Lerwig, Norge) at 12.5%. This was everything it claimed to be. I showed Suzy the page I had already posted on Bier-Traveller, she was well pleased, and why not? One can tell that Baobab is going to become an institution in Porto.

No fireworks tonight, just the short walk downhill to São Bento. Tomorrow:

Lisboa – 2023 – Another Seven Days – April – May

The Brew Pubs, Taprooms and Bars visited:

Alvares Brewery Taproom   –  Rua do Almada 383, 4000-303 Porto

Baobab – Craft Beer Bar  –  Rua do Almada 377, 4000-303 Porto

A Fábrica da Picaria Cervejaria artisanal  –  Rua da Picaria 72, 4050-477 Porto

Cask Beer  –  Rua da Armenia 54, 4050-066 Porto

Letraria Porto  –  Rua da Alegria 101, 4000-042 Porto

Gulden Draak Bierhuis Porto – R. de José Falcão N. 82, 4050-315 Porto

Bonaparte Downtown – Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 40, 4050-150 Porto

Beira Douro – Av. De Diogo Leite 242, 4430-999 Villa Nova de Gaia

A recommended restaurant

Lagostim – Praca D. Filips de Lencastre 200, 4050-260 Porto

Posted in Porto-Gaia | Comments Off on Porto – Gaia – Portugal – The 2023 Birthday Trip

München-Andechs-Bamberg-Forchheim-Berlin + Bieres Sans Frontieres – 2022 A.G.M.

Posted on April 4, 2023 by Hector

Bieres Sans Frontieres (B.S.F.), is an ad hoc group created by those who work at the so called – Foreign Bar – at British – CAMRA – organised beer festivals. Hector may only have worked once at that London’s GBBF in 2016, however, the right to be has been earned by working at the Paisley Beer Festival since the 1990s and subsequently – G-RAF – the Glasgow Real Ale Festival. No more acronyms.

When the late Jonathan Kemp announced that this year’s – B.S.F.-A.G.M. – was being held in Bamberg, Dr. Stan plus Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley, decided we had to be there. On our last trip to Bamberg in November 2022, we watched the relay of Jonathan’s funeral, he was meant to be on that trip, and this one…

Wednesday, March 29

Today Hector flew from Edinburgh to München, touching down at the same time that Dr. Stan was arriving at München Hauptbahnhof. Clive and Maggie had arrived on a red eye from Gatwick and were allowed to check in at their Ibis at 10.30. I suggested that as they had already purchased the M-5 Zone day ticket, they take advantage and go to Kloster Andechs. They decided we should all go tomorrow.

For Hector, the first thing after hotel check in at München is Curry at Indian Mango (Isartor). I had calculated a 19.00 rendezvous on the fear that the post Brexit passport checks would take up to an hour. However, a quick exit from the ‘plane saw the Hector clear immigration in a near instant. The only hold up being the – why are you here?

Bier, Urlaub – was the simple answer.

Now it gets difficult, the others had installed themselves at Augustiner Stammhaus and intended to make the original rendezvous. Hector was forty minutes ahead of schedule. It was suggested I join them, then we go to Isartor. Knowing the situation well, I bypassed Augustiner, and went for Fisch Chettinad. In the meantime, Dr. Stan and Clive had done the inevitable and succumbed to that which passes for food in Deutschland.

Around 19.30, Hector arrived at Augustiner, a Helles (5.2%) was quickly ordered. Dr, Stan has convinced me over the years that this is the better start, Edelstoff (5.6%) can wait. A ritual that actually began in Berlin at Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt.

Always light and refreshing, it’s good to refamiliarise oneself with – Helles – a style ignored for a long time during Hector’s era of – nothing but Weizen.

Clive and Maggie were on the Edelstoff already, well for a while. Maggie thinks she can drink Bier, well she can, but not very much. Her logic is that spirits will not fill her up. With no Brandy to her choice, or anything else apparently, she opted for Vodka with Cola on the side, to mix.

Women do this, i.e. drink Vodka when they don’t actually like it. I know, I first poured this in a pub back in 1974.

Edelstoff, aka Paisley Pop, definitely has more of a kick, however, given that 6.0% plus has become the – Session abv – during/since Lockdown, this feels quite manageable. Any thoughts of an early departure were thwarted by Hector having to be sated by both the Helles then the Edelstoff.

 

 

 

At our time of departure, the Crawley Royalty were heading back to Dachauer Strasse, by tram, the Bad Boys headed round to Andechser am Dom.

Bad Boys? We have our ritual wind-up.

Es gibt ihren Spezial Hell Heute?

 

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As described on another post, one night we actually struck it lucky, Elke, the former manageress at the original venue, sold us some from a private party downstairs. Tonight we – settled – for the Bergbock Hell. At 6.9% much heftier than the Spezial Hell (5.8%). I’m actually surprised that the Bergbock Hell is their regular Bier on tap, one could do damage here.

Sense prevailed, back to the Bier that first got me into Andechs Bier – Weissbier Hell (5.5%). Another ritual is the artistic photography, no candles tonight, a strange illumination, the flowers are different.

Thursday, March 30

Yes, it has gone midnight, and we are still here. For the first time in my visits to the new premises, the upstairs was busy, perhaps this prolonged the service? I saw a semi-familiar face lead some suits upstairs.

That’s Sepp – Dr. Stan informed me.

Sepp, the owner of this franchise, had his photos adorn the walls of the previous premises. There is seemingly nobody that Sepp has not had his photo taken with, except Dr. Stan and Hector, until tonight. There are times one has to be Gallus. The manager – Alan (?) – led us outside, the portal has been retained from the original premises, it was here the deed was done.

As we returned to finish our Bier, so Brigitte, the manageress, was standing at our table with a 10l Fass of Spezial Hell.

I remember you!

We were informed that this is always available to purchase. We did manage 20l over two nights at Silvester in pre Covid days. One needs the mouths, and four on this trip is not enough, well 3.5.

And so back to the Hotel Royal, an oft visited lodging which has priced itself out of consideration in recent years. A few weeks ago, I spotted a single room at an affordable price. Fortunately I was able to cancel my booking across the river. Who now books accommodation that cannot be cancelled in these times?

Going to bed at 01.00 is the Hector norm, except tonight it wasn’t really. The clocks went forward three nights back, this afternoon, another hour. The result, no sleep for Hector. Street noise did not help, and the room was so hot the window had to be open.

Being part of – the wide awake club -, there was coffee and yoghurt around 09.00.

One egg was – un oeuf.

Still no sleep thereafter.

I met Clive and Maggie at noon for Curry, except they appeared to have forgotten the arrangement. Coffee and a bag of food had been bought for the journey to Kloster Andechs,

Lamm Chettinad at Indian Mango first.

Dr. Stan was waiting at Hauptbahnhof, or what remains of it, for the train to Tutzing. This connects with a bus to Andechs, today, it didn’t. Having crawled along the west side of Stanberger See, our train was well late. Maybe it’s safer to take the S Bahn on the outward journey to Herrsching.

We had an unplanned fifty minutes in the coffee shop opposite Tutzing Bahnhof. Sheltering from the rain became the priority. How long can one make a Coffee last?

Spezial Hell (5.8%) at last, and at such a wonderful price, €4.00 for a half felt like a bargain when compared to what pays for Craft Beer. Once enough Curry had been digested, Apfel Strudel was ordered, we have our rituals.

Doppelbock Dunkel (7.1%) has a definite sweetness, but well, why not?

The far room, where we usually sit, was quiet for most of the afternoon. The main room was always buzzing. Nobody outside, because of the rain, but it did clear early evening. No merchandise on sale, Tegernsee could teach Kloster Andechs so much.

 

 

With closing time looming, it was back on the bus to Tutzing which does arrive early enough to guarantee the train back to München. And there are toilets on the train, which the S Bahn does not have.

Where next? – asked Clive.

Dr. Stan used to hate the Hofbräuhaus, yesterday, he admitted that he now quite enjoys it. Since – pop – music was ditched in favour of Bayerische Classics, the atmosphere has changed dramatically. The smoking ban also helped.

€10.40 for a litre of Helles, city centre prices. The Hofbräuhaus finally serve half litres which traditionally they refused to do. I was the only one having the litre, though Dr. Stan soon regretted not doing so, he caught up.

Tonight’s band had a dominant horn player, I prefer the smooth blend the various instrument make in harmony. I wonder how Rheinhold Frank is? 1976, the first year I set foot in the Hofbräuhaus, a lifetime ago. I always preferred the Löwenbräu at the Mathäser, and the dimensions of the other Bierhalle.

Another early night, no sleep at all.

Friday, March 31

With buses running from Nürnberg to Bamberg, there was no point investing in an ICE, a Bayern Ticket would suffice. In the coming days, a €49 ticket is being introduced which lasts a month and is valid on all transport across the nation, except of course EC/IC/ICE. Any five day trip to Deutschland should surely make this ticket worthwhile. The experimental €9.00 month-long ticket last summer was wonderful, but not sustainable.

Arriving first at the Hauptbahnhof, the first person I met was Doug. He had been travelling with another group and was now headed to Bamberg using an Inter Rail ticket which is valid on IC trains. This was almost the case in the 1970s, Zuschlag – . an early word I learned in Deutsch.

A fleet of buses was waiting on the west side of Nurnberg Hbf to take us to Bamberg etc. Hector caught up with some blogging, the Doris behind me spoke non-stop for one hour. Hell is other people – a famous philosopher once said.

Having checked in at the Ibis Altstadt, it was time to head out. Spezial is always where we start. In fact such rituals are why I feel I do not have to Blog every trip. Lagerbier (4.7%) is a gentle wake up to the palate for what follows at Schlenkerla. Light and Smokey, but not intensely so, always more-ish, yet we rarely stay past the litre.

Graham and Sarah walked in and recognised me from previous B.S.F. encounters. They had little choice but to sit with me, one feature of Spezial and Keesmann is that tables are often reserved. Sometimes, one simply does not get in. Maybe one has to accept that more planning is becoming required to guarantee access. Online apps?

Clive and Maggie had not shown, the latter – indisposed. We crossed the road to Fässla, Doug was there with John, a first encounter. Lagerbier (5.5%) was ordered, no smokiness here, just a simple Helles. Food was ordered, Wiener Schnitzel, which I shall claim as being Austrian. Unfortunately, because I was not forceful enough, I ended up with Pommes. Real chips I can handle occasionally, and only if smothered in mayonnaise.

Clive and Maggie eventually showed and after a Bier it was declared time for our group of six to move west along the same street to Bräuerei Landwinkl. First visited in November last year, Landwinkl was immediately declared the best of the new brewhouses which have appeared in Bamberg in recent years. Packed last time, this time we had a choice of tables and so located ourselves at the first table on entry.

The friendly chap from November was not on duty, tonight, an equally accommodating Doris. For Hector, the A Rauchigs, a 5.4% smoked Bier which I put flavour-wise, between Spezial’s – Lagerbier and Schlenkerla’s – Märzen. This means it is certainly a worthy Bier. Others had the A Hells and A Brauns, next time maybe, always leave something new to try.

Maggie, who somehow was Biered-out already, sent Clive up to the bar to negotiate a Brandy and Cola. He returned with a half litre glass of JD and Cola, the Bourbon being just under half of the volume. At the time of paying, Clive was very happy with what he had ben charged for Maggie’s cocktail. With the Bier being charged at €3.70 per half litre, Bamberg remains a happy hunting ground.

It was time to move to Schlenkerla else there would be little point. Google Maps showed a bus back to the ZOB, technically halfway. Clive and Maggie were calling it a night, the ZOB is minutes from the Ibis Altstadt, and a Kebap Shop. With their accommodation nearer the station, there was little point Doug and John joining us. The München Four stood at the bus stop for some ten minutes, nay bus. So not only in Glasgow do buses not show as per timetable.

Dr. Stan and Hector crossed the Main-Donau Kanal via the Löwenbrücke bridge which lies to the west of the town centre and managed to reach Am Krannen ahead of schedule. The Rathaus built on the Obere Brücke is the picture postcard Bamberg scene. Who still sends postcards? As with the München Rathaus, Bamberg’s was not illuminated, all to do with saving energy whilst the needless conflict in Ukraine continues.  With reference to Valkyrie, part of an historical conflict,  the once vandalised Staufenberg memorial has been replaced.

We were given the small table up the stairs to the right, a bit of a squeeze, at least we were in. A 23.30 official closing was anticipated, we got some Märzen in. At a mere 5.1%, the Märzen is much lighter (sic) than the 6.5% Urbock. Maybe not as smooth, but still as smokey. An acquired taste, and for those of us who enjoy it, a fine way to end the evening.

Hector was last to leave the building, and not for the first time.

Saturday, April 1

Today was the day of the A.G.M., I have previously attended parts of the ones held in Sheffield and Barcelona. 12.30 at Brauhaus Zum Sternla, another of the three new venues to have appeared in Bamberg in recent years. 12.30, too early for Bier as far as Hector was concerned. Arriving punctually, I was shown to the back room which notionally had been reserved for our group of twenty four. Except, there would be more non – B.S.F. – people in the room, families, weans, who organised this?

Having made one visit to Sternla in April last year, Hector was in no rush to return. Then we were forced to sit out in the cold and damp entry room with a crowd of louts. The main room had – reserved – tables, for whom and when? Whatever, they were not for letting us sit there. The Bier did not impress, another reason for having lemonade today. So last year they could protect those seats, not today.

Kerr did his best to chair the meeting, Jim, in his absence, was given special duties. Jim too was missed on this trip, he would no doubt have driven over with Jonathan to collect Bier from the Hinterland. Those days have sadly gone. There was a toast to Jonathan.

Maggie was having a day off, a pity because she has not met The Berlin Ladies. Yes, Bruna, Bianca and Marina had travelled down for the day with Colin the – associate – of Bräugier (Berlin). The rendezvous was Klosterbräu which the Hector has not visited in ten years, basically, not a fan of their Bier either. However, today was the start of a two day Rauchbier-fest.

The majority of the B.S.F. chaps and chapattis would end up at Klosterbräu, along with half of the population of Bamberg, so it felt. There were no tables available in the main room, we took our Bier from the hatch in the entrance hallway which fortunately now has glass insulation. Not so warm in Deutschland this April, yet.

The 5.4% Rauchbier proved to be suitably palatable. There was a sense of Hops coming through the smokiness, – almost as smokey as Schlenkerla – was noted.

The Berlin Four joined us at the Stehplatz, introductions were made. Derek, founder of Kelburn Brewery, Ian, the stalwart of Ayrshire CAMRA, and Colin #2, my – boss – at G-RAF and Paisley. Bruna knew the main waiter in Klosterbräu and used her influence to get a table. In time we were all seated, but then Kerr, Derek et al disappeared, glasses in hand, to where?

The first comfort break revealed all. Klosterbräu now have an additional room, and a vast one at that. A former lagering room has been turned into a – Bier Keller – in the British misuse of that term. Why this was not made available earlier remains a mystery.

Colin #2 sat with us, Sam too and Sarah, his mother, briefly. The Rauchbier was going down well, this was easily the best afternoon I’ve ever had at Klosterbräu.

The Berliners sought food, Hector was so close to Schlenkerla going anywhere seemed silly, however, we were summoned to a restaurant by the other B.S.F. Members.

Clive, Dr. Stan and Hector went in one direction, the Berliners another. Colin #2 led us up the hill to Stöhrenkeller which serves Thai food at weekends. Up the hill, something I try to avoid in Bamberg hence the limited visits to Greifenklau.

All seats in the room were taken, a waitress advised us that our friends would be departing soon, the next bookings were due We had a Bier in the hallway, in time all would pass us en route to the facilities.

Kellerbier 5.2% (Gänstaller Braumanufaktur, Deutschland), yellow, with a slight haze. The customary – Kellerbier shock – was not present, the palate immediately adjusted, with an appropriate body, a decent Bier.

Downhill to Schlenkerla, the others mentioned – Pelikan – Dr. Stan, Clive and Hector stuck to our guns.  Evidenty, the majority followed.

Sat in the room to the right, Dr. Stan admitted that he did not like the main room to the left as one enters. We have rarely sat there, now I know why, it has only taken twenty five years. In time, The Berlin Four joined us, more Märzen.

Our waitress said she remembered me from previous visits, she took the – selfie – Hector cannot abide them. We were well looked after.

At closing time, Hector was definitely in the zone, more Bier. Walking westwards to Das Pelikan, last visited in 2015, I passed previous late night haunts, they were busy. Das Pelikan was remarkably quiet.

We were indeed the last men standing, and a new Bier was had.

Mönschambacher Export 5.2% (Brauerei Zehnder, Burgerach, Bayern) was a gold, full bodied Helles. After a day on Rauchbier, easy drinking.

 

 

 

 

 

I managed not to buy a Kebap on the way home.

Sunday, April 2

There was talk yesterday of an organised tour of nearby Breweries. I know not who was doing the – organising – in the end, it was not to be. With Keesmann closed on a Sunday, there was no point heading to Wunderburg. Hector always had Forchheim in mind, this idea appeared to trickle through the B.S.F. party.

Before Bier, there had to be Bunkers. If there was going to be a Curry in Bamberg, today was the day. The history of Curry in this town is complex. Mainstream, at best, is all one can hope for. The account of the visit to Ganesha Tandoori is written.

On previous outings from Bamberg there has always been a local group ticket for the train. The ticket machine was not giving this. Return tickets are not a feature of European travel, the UK is soon to abandon them. The queue at the ticket office, staffed by two, would mean missing the train. Individual tickets were purchased from the machine by Dr. Stan, Clive and Maggie, Hector used the DB app and saved a few Pfennigs. Yes, Maggie was back out to play.

Being unable to walk at a snail’s pace, the Hector strode off on arrival at Forchheim, there was a market outside the Rathaus and consequently in front of the two remaining brewery taps on this stretch. Hebendanz first, Colin #2, Graham and Sarah were in situ, others had just departed for the Kellers.

Märzen at 5.2% comes from a bottle, I was led to believe that this Bier is available in March and October, a dual Festbier. Yellow-gold in colour, apart from the slight sweetness, this was a fine Helles style Bier.

Clive ordered this when he arrived, Maggie and Dr. Stan took the Export Hell, 5.0%. This was Bier #2 for Hector. There was no sense of sweetness here, maybe the better choice.

The Stammtisch was loud, exceptionally so. A mixed group, the level of hilarity mid afternoon suggesting a good session. One chap did the translating, the old chap serving appeared not to understand our pronunciation of – anything. In time, the duty Doris took over, better service.

The München Four headed next door to Neder, the remaining three to Kellerwald. The serving Doris at Neder sent me through to the back, the main door was out of action. Initially I thought she meant the room was full and we would have to be served outside at the rear, fortunately not. Half of a large table adjacent to the serving area was secured. A young group of chaps asked permission to occupy the remainder.

Kellerbier at 4.9% is presumably what we had. Having drunk this since 1997, a well established experience, especially on Annafest visits. Annafest, it has ben a while, however, the Bamberg area in summer can be hectic. Somehow, Maggie was Biered-out already. Something with Cola was acquired, but not Asbach Brandy, that she cannot abide, unless…

Facing the barrels, I saw the serving chap half fill a two litre boot with Bier. He then poured in the equivalent of a quarter bottle of Asbach. To that a Cherry Liqueur., then more Bier to fill the glass. Where was this monstrosity headed?

The chaps beside us had ordered this creation. I asked permission to take a photo, granted, but on one condition. At least in this post Covid era, it was The München Four who got to drink first from the boot.

Gaosmoas! – not too shabby, the Kirsche dominated, a pleasant fruity sweetness. One sip was enough. In fact they asked if we were actually drinking and not adding to the glass. Whatever triggered the ordering of this – cocktail – it was quickly consumed and the chaps moved on, as did we.

Hirschaid next and Braueri Kraus. At Forchheim Bahnhof we met up with the Keller chaps including Jason, a Bamberg resident. Doug decided to join us once more. A few minutes later we alighted at Hirschaid, the station us still under renovation, so a longer walk to Kraus.

We were invited to sit to the left, not on the main drinking room to the right. Usually we stop off here in November for the Bock, today, the Helles at 4.7% would suffice, though Dr. Stan had something seasonal, perhaps to his sorrow. The Helles was – harmless.

Dinner time for Dr. Stan, Soup only for Hector, a token gesture. Kebap later, vielleicht.

I don’t know if the lady Host remembered us from November, her Deutsch was relentless, confirmation that Hector’s is evaporating. In Berlin spricht man Englisch.

I approached the other serving lady, translation in hand, to arrange a taxi back to Bamberg, and straight to Schlenkerla. That worked. For the reason described previously, Doug took the train.

At Schlenkerla, the room on the right, more Märzen, same serving Doris. Hunger declared, I advised Maggie as to which Meat & Cheese Platter to order. Advice ignored, what she got was not what she wanted, but was what she asked for. So it goes.

Being our third night, the staff knew we would depart, but not until the end. In the otherwise empty room, their last hour was relaxing, many people have work on a Monday.

An early night for Hector and there was a Kebap.

Monday, April 3

The morning was spent composing suitable words for Curry-Heute. Food of another type was had for lunch, the fifth day and the avoidance of Deutsche Essen continues.

Today’s rendezvous was – Mahrs at 15.00. For the first time in this trip, blue skies, but even lower temperatures, spring this was not. There was the opperchancity to take the classic photos of the Rathaus over the Regnitz.

As I approached Wunderburg I overtook Clive and Maggie:

You’ll never be at Mahrs for opening time walking at that pace.

They weren’t, Hector was first in and took the same seat at the same table that has been occupied for many a visit.

Your’e sitting alone, in the dark? – the Doris remarked in Deutsch.

I assured her I had three friends coming – sofort.  She switched on the lights.

In all previous occupancies of this seat I have ordered – A-U – Jonathan and Dr. Stan among others had convinced me that his was – the Bier – to have. Today, I ordered the Helles. At 4.9%, yellow, clear and sharp, but probably from a keg. This was decidedly more-ish, as Dr. Stan confirmed when he eschewed the Ungespundet. He too thinks – A-U – has had its day.

The room filled, by 18.00 it was time for us to think about crossing the road. I did a recce to Keesmann, all tables booked. Clive repeated my action, same conclusion. Undeterred , the four of us hopped across the street. Frau Keesmann recognised us, tried to fit us in, three yes, four not possible. And so to Spezial.

Arriving first, I thought I had a table, but misread my own watch. It is an annoying feature of certain venues that they accept bookings and block off virtually the entire room. At Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt (Berlin) I now have the app to book in advance, research needed for Bamberg.

Fässla was open, but again all tables occupied/reserved. We squeezed on to the table in the lobby. More Lagerbier.

It became apparent that we had an adjacent inebriate the management were trying to evict. He could hardly speak, never mind walk, however, from somewhere his English became fluent. Many apologies, he departed, but still tried to get back in.

To my left sat a couple from USA, Andrew and Natalie. They met in Bamberg some years back on their tours of duty. With both Clive and Maggie having offspring who have served, the conversation blossomed, such that when I declared it time to move to Schlenkerla, they caught up with us there.

A pleasant end to the four days in Bamberg. Somehow, today we did not encounter any of the remaining B.S.F. crowd.

Tuesday, April 4

Dr. Stan headed west to Brussel via Köln. Clive and Maggie went south to München Flughafen, Hector headed north,  Berlin calling. A timeous ICE had me at Berlin Hbf in time for the 15.00 at Ibis Mitte check-in, from there, the U Bahn to Osloer Strasse. In November 2022, Hector finally located the Punjabi Cuisine only previously dreamt of in Berlin. Today was Visit #4 to Punjabi Zaiqa.

Having arranged to meet Colin at  Bräugier for 20.00, I had time for a quick half at Protokoll. Michel was not on duty, his lady colleague duly looked after me. A quick look at the board, there was a NEIPA which shouted loud and clear

Icons of Summer, 6.6%, my first Craft Beer of the trip, and the first with US Hops. There was an instant – Wow! The Hops I have yet to identify, the fruitiness, a sheer tropical delight, was in the face. This was a stunning Bier, so good, I had another.

My usual Berlin model is Bräugier one night, Protokoll the next, to tear oneself away was difficult. Why did I not book my flight back a day later? I cannot believe what I paid for tomorrow’s flight to Edinburgh, pre budget airline prices, maybe sense prevailed. There’s a holiday weekend approaching.

You’re early – was Colin’s greeting. We sat at the corner of the bar, Colin remains puzzled that the Berliners do not do this, always a table. That is how they are traditionally served.

The board showed three Hazy IPAs, Wrath of ? – I first had almost a year ago to the day. At 6.5%, described, by me, as Goddam-Zilla’s little brother, there is no further accolade required. And this was after Icons of Summer.

At the weekend, Colin predicted I should like Artificial Stupidity, a new release. At 6.6% the perfect abv. However, there was initially a shocking aftertaste which soon subsided. With five Hops, this was a complex Bier, Mosaic was in there, so all was well. I could have been happy with this but decided to try another newbie.

HopGPT at a mere 6.0% had a great hop balance. This was easy drinking, smooth on the palate, safe even. I went – large – then stuck with this for the rest of the evening.

Bruna arrived after a work related event. Glasgow, Bamberg, Berlin all within a two week period. Ironically, when Bruna and Colin visit Scotland later in the year, Hector will most likely be away!

Marg, Hector, Colin and Bruna do have something special planned for August!

Posted in Berlin, München, Bamberg, Forchheim | Comments Off on München-Andechs-Bamberg-Forchheim-Berlin + Bieres Sans Frontieres – 2022 A.G.M.

Jonathan Kemp R.I.P.

Posted on October 27, 2022 by Hector

17.04.1970 – 28.10.2022

It was with shock and great sadness that the family informed us of the passing of our dear friend Jonathan.

I first met Jonathan at the Bon Accord (Glasgow) some twenty years ago on his return from work duties in Aberdeen, a Procurator Fiscal, a handy person to know. Clearly an educated man, we exchanged discoveries in the world of Progressive Rock.

The München  Okotoberfest was his – big thing, so unsurprisingly, on my retiral, we were able to visit midweek, as Jonathan always insisted was better. I may have introduced him to Buttenheim, but it was he who led the way to the Bock Tappings.

buttenheim-lowenbrau-bock-bier-traveller-16GRAF Day1 bier-traveller (25)The Glasgow Real Ale Festival (G-RAF) would never have been resurrected in 2014 without Jonathans’ drive and input. Since then, Johnathan has gone on to hold office for CAMRA, the Campaign for Real Ale.

Additionally, he was a key player in BSF – Bieres Sans Frontieres – us chaps who serve at the Foreign Bar at CAMRA festivals.

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That I am able to post this page at all, is down to Johnathan. One morning in München, he came down to breakfast and informed us that he had launched a Blog – Bier-Today.  Hector was given co-authoring rights. From this evolved Curry-Heute, Jonathan contributed one post for Shenaz (Glasgow). 

In time Bier-Traveller was launched in which Jonathan would regularly feature. Our final trip together was in September 2022, Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant remained a favourite venue, a fitting place for the last photos I would take.

Our thoughts are with the family, whom we all know well.

Antwerpen Centraal, September 2022.

(to be continued…)

Posted in Glasgow | 1 Comment

Kraków – A Tale of Two Piwo & A Scottish £5 Note

Posted on October 26, 2022 by Hector

Yes, it is exactly one month since Hector left Polska, that was for the Riverside tour, this weekend we see the reformed Porcupine Tree perform in Katowice. It is far easier to secure tickets for such concerts abroad than it is to deal with the corrupt ticket agents in the UK.

Bier-Traveller, a Blog, however the reporting of day to day activities has become quite rare. It simply would take all my time to keep this up to date, as if anyone was really interested. Instead, I have focussed on the information on the drop-down menu above, e.g. all you need to know about Kraków is there.

Usually we stay in Kazimierz, however, our apartment arranged via Booking.com, declared themselves overbooked. We were bumped, despite having paid already. Ibis to the rescue, the one at the main train station where we stayed in our first visits to Kraków.

Arriving at J2P2 Airport, the plan was take the train into the city, not one sign showed the locus of the station. Instead, it was easier to take Bus 208 (or 300) to the city. The 208 passes the Ibis, yay.

Marg had to be amused before the serious business of the day was underway. Pierogarnia Krakowiacy provided the traditional Polish Cuisine that was sought. Fear not, there should be Curry tomorrow. Golabki for Hector, accompanied by Bread and Dripping with Gherkin.

All good except there was a worrying aftertaste from the Gherkins, not Kosher. Marg had a concoction in a loaf, not really what she wanted, but what she got. Two ladies at the next table table had the filled loaf plus Pierogi, to their sorrow.

Coffee and Cake had to follow, Hector going the extra mile to ensure the lady was amused. Cakester Cafe provided the necessaries despite the fact they were closing at 20.00, we had twenty minutes. Hector’s cake must have been Vegan/Gluten Free or a throwback to the Communist era: all taste removed. This was among the blandest food ever eaten.

Cakester on Tomasza, a venue we had visited before but branded differently. Tomasza, home to 4-4-2, the Sports-bar already showing this evening’s early kick-offs in the Champions League. Napoli v Rangers to come, played before Napoli fans only as a consequence of the passing of the Queen. After last week’s thrashing by Liverpool, maybe we wouldn’t bother.

Through the Rynek in Stare Miasto, Marg recognised the route to Multi Qlti where OnTap.pl reported, there were two choices of interest.

We don’t do tasters – I was firmly informed.

One of my choices had gone, so a small NEIPA was ordered, along with Bacardi & Coke for Marg. What?

Tank Busters (Polska) – The Book of Hops at 5.8% turned out to be excellent, a – Large – was purchased moments later. At £3.48 great value. The Book of Hops has the full milkshake haze and gives off a big, smooth hop hit. Most importantly, what I called – The Polish aftertaste – was absent. Oftentimes, Craft Piwo has this, it can be tolerated, but it’s better when it’s not there at all. For the record, I had Time to Fly, a DIPA at 7.0% by the same brewery at Biala Malpa (Katowice) last year, it too was sound. A brewery to note. More please!

I went back to the bar, it’s aff! Pastry Sours seemed to be popular here tonight, it was time to go back to the tried and tested. Artezan (Polska) – Mera – at 6.5%, a West Coast IPA, is a smoother version of the legendary Rowing Jack (AleBrowar, Polska). I expected a reaction on the palate going from New England back across The Rockies, alas, this was surprisingly gentle, fruity even. Marg said she could smell the – fruitiness.

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With Rangers two goals down already, it was time to move on. Viva la Pinta on Florianksa, the main street to the Old Town from the north, is a fine establishment. Tonight the board was boring, about turn. We passed 4-4-2 once more, it looked as if Rangers were changing their striker, at half time, maybes.

House of Beer, the last post and nearest to our hotel, had a potential DIPA.

Aperol for Marg, and a small – Ziemia Obiecana (Polska) – Daj Mi To – at 7.5% featuring Motueka, Nelson and Citra Hop, everything the Hector seeks.

The full milkshake haze, a super Hop Hit, all the right flavours, and no Polish aftertaste. I had ordered a Large before the small was finished. Outstanding Piwo!

There was another reason for being at House of Beer this evening. Last month, former colleagues Craig and Lesley pinned a Scottish £5 note to the bar with my name on it. It took some time to spot, three staff were involved, but eventually the Fiver was liberated. At £3.66 a pint, Hector was on a winning streak.

There was more DIPA and Baileys for Marg, good night.

Last month, Howard and Hector had decent Piwo in Gdynia, Poznan, Lodz and Wroclaw, but nothing in the same league as experienced this evening. Pot luck, perhaps.

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Venues visited today:

Pierogarnia Krakowiacy – Slawkowska13/15, 31-016 Kraków Polska

Cakester Cafe – Swietago Tomasza 25, 31-027 Kraków Polska

Multi Qlti – Ul. Szewska 21, 31-009 Kraków Polska

Viva la Pinta – Florianska 13, 31-019 Kraków Polska

House of Beer – Swietego Tomasza 35, Stare Miasto, 31-027 Kraków Polska

Posted in Krakow | Comments Off on Kraków – A Tale of Two Piwo & A Scottish £5 Note

Glasgow Real Ale Festival – G-RAF 2022

Posted on June 18, 2022 by Hector

June 16 – 18, 2022

After a three year enforced absence due to Covid-19, G-RAF has returned to The Briggait.

Once again Jonathan was the driving force behind the festival.  Hector admits to turning up expecting all to be in place, and most importantly, the taps at the KeyKeg/Foreign Bar functioning smoothly. Colin was once again overseeing this  operation, assisted by Dr. Stan, it’s complicated.

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Hector was present on each of the three days, the official photographer captured a not too uncommon moment at the Foreign Bar (left).

However, such was the adulation, when Hector, Howard, and Dr. Stan were working in unison, one punter posted his verdict: Dream Team. 

Additionally, there was the chap who wanted to discuss Piwo from Polska, hopefully in recognition of the extensive coverage of Polish Bier in these pages. Inevitably, many wanted to discuss matters Curry related. Time will never permit the same level of coverage in Bier-Traveller.com as in Curry-Heute.com.

Some more of the volunteers

Some well-kent faces

The Bier

At G-RAF 2019, Overtone (Yoker, Glasgow) were in their infancy. Black Market Fruit, a Sour at 5.2%, was featured, my first encounter of Overtone.   Throughout Lockdown they attained great notoriety with a seemingly never ending series of IPAs: NEIPA, DIPA, DDH IPA, TIPA etc.  It was good to see their Bier pouring steadily this week.

 

Posted in Glasgow | Comments Off on Glasgow Real Ale Festival – G-RAF 2022

Berlin – Das Bier Kapital

Posted on October 31, 2021 by Hector

Arriving late last night in Berlin from Athena, Marg and Hector managed to get up to Bräugier in Prenzlauer Berg at one minute to midnight. Three new NEIPAs were on the board, however, knowing that a not so late night was required, it was straight into the God-Damn Zilla! (DIPA).

We sat at the bar, Brian was not in his usual spot. Colin was sat at the window, doing what he does. When that company departed, I was taken aback to find him standing right beside me. It had taken him a while to clock that we were there. He knew we were coming back to Berlin sometime soon, I had maintained the element of surprise. We were introduced to Bruna, Colin’s lady. Thomas, the opera singer whom we spent a pleasant evening with last year also joined us. This is how it is at Bräugier.

The talk last night was of the new premises at Ostkreuz. Open on Saturdays presently, they hope to be fully up and running by mid November. Indian Streetfood will be a key feature of the operation, but run by others.

Colin asked what other venues I planned to visit. Protokoll is my second favourite Berlin venue. Colin said he and Bruna were – going to a party – there this evening, we should meet up later.

Where is Marg? – I asked on a social medium today, only one person got it.

This afternoon was all about enjoying the city. An Italian lunch at Vesuvio (Starusberger Platz) in the heart of the former Ost Berlin (DDR) was followed by the ritual visit to the Brandenburg Gate.

Marg said she wanted to walk in a park. Unter den Linden provided the solution, but not before Hector paid homage to the two T34s parked up at the WW2 monument.

The years remain 1941 – 1945. Russia and Germany were allies between 1939 and 1941. Then UK/USA became allies with Russia. Later, Germany became a founder member of the EC/EU which the UK joined eventually, before leaving. Brexit, who thought that one up? Russia had become the USSR by absorbing all peripheral nations. They eventually seceded to leave Russia alone. Russia has gas, UK used to have North Sea gas. Now we all have Koronawirus. Hector likes T34s, the design of which influenced the Panzerkampfwagen V (Panther). So it goes.

The walk along Unter den Linden took us to the Zoological Gardens. Marg prefers animals to tanks. Our pathway was along the outside fence of the Zoo, this sufficed, animals were spotted. We saw – sheep – in a Zoo? This is a zebra.

Eventually, it was Bier o’clock, or so I thought. An RE across the city would get us to Ostkreuz faster than the S Bahn, we were ticketed for all. The delayed RE made Marg question my logic. I don’t think she appreciated how many stops we avoided by taking the train.

As described, Bräugier-Ostkreuz is directly outside the station to the north. But we weren’t going there yet. Marg felt that her lunch had caused her to miss the promised – Kaffee und Kuchen. Google showed many a Coffee Shop, all but one due to close at 17.00, it was 16.50. We found – the one – which would still be open, it was closed, for renovation. Retracing our steps back towards Ostkreuz Bahnhof, coffee was secured, no cake, Bad Hector.

At Bräugier-Ostkreuz a temporary bar had been erected at what will be, in time, the site of an open window. No, we couldn’t sit inside. No we couldn’t pay by card.

(In the last eleven days in Greece and Deutschland, I have spent less than €20.00 in cash.)

A cola for Marg, a Poor But Hoppy (APA) for Hector. It was too early for more God-Damn Zilla! The Poor But Hoppy was better than I remembered it, despite the plastic cup.

Moments after we had taken our seats at an outside table, Colin and Bruna arrived. This was not by chance. They stuck to bottled Bier which Bräugier has an abundance of. It’s a Covid connected story. They ordered the Spicy Chicken Burger which I had assumed would be a Chapli Kebab. Alas, no, too chunky. One assumes/hopes there will be more on offer soon.

I had half recognised Ostkreuz Bahnhof on arrival, never having done so in daylight.

Straßenbräu cannot be far from here? – I put to Colin. It was indeed round the corner. He also mentioned – Home – run by an English couple further up the same street. Home – has been on my list of places to visit, I hadn’t realised its proximity to Straßenbräu. Hops and Barley ain’t too far either, so having a Bräugier outlet here is classic complementary competition. 

We took our leave, Protokoll later. Straßenbräu has been transformed. The brew-plant has been relocated out of town. This means much more, and comfortable seating. It also makes the venue the Brewery Tap, – The Source – still.

*

Juicy And I Kno’Wit at a modest 4.9% had the appearance of being – in the style. Fruity and Juicy, a bit thin, an OK Bier. Hommelsap, remains the best I have had from Straßenbräu.

Home was set up like a living room. Has someone been to Piwna Stopa (Poznan)? The board did not excite. I told the Irish barman that I was hoping for NEIPA. Newcastle Brown – on tap – almost tempted, but I’ve had that in Berlin previously. Gold Plank (Eschenbräu) it would be. There’s little likelihood of us going up to Wedding this trip, so perhaps my only chance for one of theirs?

*

Marg and I sat in comfy chairs at the rear of the establishment. It’s Halloween, we discussed if the chap at the adjacent table was guising or cross dressing.

*

A tram took us a couple of stops along to Protokoll, one of the two Taps for Zagovor (Russia) in Berlin.

The place was stowed. Not only were we Vaccine checked as we have been on entering every establishment, we had to show ID to match the certification. We were then given a wristband. The staff therefore had total control over who was in the bar, getting served and numbers. Colin had kept us seats, well one. Kitkat Man – as Marg would call him, vacated his, Hector was sorted.

Colin and Bruna stuck mostly to drinking bottled Bräugier. Do they have stashes across the city? Marg wanted Rum with loadsa cola, Hector needed many hands. There was no sign of – Against Milk, the – NE Milkshake IPA – that became the focal point of visits here in 2020.

Fractal (NEIPA) at 6.5% looked like the sensible starting point. After that which had preceded it, this Bier took a while to settle on the palate. In time the hops and fruitiness came through. There was more.

Bruna’s sister, Bianca, sat at the other end of the table with her friend, Marion. A very Brasilian company this evening. Marg marvelled at some of the costumes being worn this evening, especially by the staff. The tall lady who served me was wearing a particularly daring outfit, Hector the innocent didn’t clock this, too busy studying the Board.

Bier-Traveller – may be a self appointed moniker, however, this and the website does make for a bit of notoriety. Michel at Protokoll was formally introduced

I was later  introduced to Tom, founder of Vagabund in Wedding (library photo), and sporting a ridiculous black wig tonight. I took the opperchancity to tell him that his recent offerings have not impressed as much as earlier brews. When the palate favoured IPA and APA, Vagabund Biers were fine, indeed I bough the t-shirt. To date, he has not brewed anything with the dry hopping required to produce an NEIPA. I showed him the various entries on Bier-Traveller.com, we found a photo of him in the background from back in 2016. Hector’s pedigree was established.

A chap I had seen behind the bar at Straßenbräu was also introduced, another brewer whose name escaped me (update 17.02.2022 – Fabian). I assumed he was the brewer, everyone else coming to the table was. Again, I was able to remind him of how his establishment has been recorded on Bier-Traveller. The new layout will be incorporated as this Blog is updated. There’s as much chance of that happening as Porcupine Tree touring again, some may say. However, there’s something mysterious going on in terms of the latter.

At some point, Hector moved up a gear to – Hazy Leaks – (NEIPA) at 6.7%. again, a full on milkshake, but this definitely had – it. The Bier sat on the palate, bursting with tropical fruitiness and there were – no nasties. DIPA and TIPA would be ignored this evening. This Zagovor Bier is what Hector sought, a fine Session Bier to be getting on with. In the end, I decided that this was the Bier for today.

The party was in full swing, photographs of everyone with everyone else. Without photos it’s difficult to remember who one has met. And next time I meet Tom, the photo to remind us we have been in each other’s company will be better than than hazy one first shown.

The clocks go back tonight, party on!

We did. There was an U Bahn from Frankfurter Tor to Alexanderplatz, a Kebap, a tram, and a good night’s sleep.

Posted in Berlin | Comments Off on Berlin – Das Bier Kapital

Two Nights in Gdansk-Sopot-Gdynia

Posted on September 25, 2020 by Hector

Friday, September 25th

Today was Hector’s third visit to Gdansk and technically Marg’s second, however, her first was a matter of heading straight to the airport whilst yours truly got on with retirement. The trip up from Poznan passed in no time, a few episodes of Suits took care of that. Whatever happened to Meghan Markle?

Having checked into the Ibis near Gdansk Glowny it was time for Hector the tourist guide to come into vogue. It was only on my second visit that I made it as far as the waterfront, that would be our final sightseeing objective after we had done the other tourist bits: Hala Targowa – the indoor market, then Neptune’s Fountain at the start of the main market street.

The old town of Gdansk resembles a chocolate box, a fine atmosphere and one I knew Marg would appreciate.

It was still warm enough to sit outside for coffee and listen to a lady sing under the archway which led to the Motlawa, or at least the marina which connects to it.

I have yet to see the Wisla in Gdansk, the mouth being only a short distance to the north. Having walked across the Wisla/Vistula in Krakow, Warszawa, Torun and Bydgoszcz, this is something for another visit.

The Cathead Multitap Bar was magically only seconds away when it was declared Bier o’clock. Tables were reserved for later, Friday night out, despite Covid bubbling under every decision one makes. We virtually had the place to ourselves which suited our purpose, still, I would like to see this place in full flight.

With only half of the possible twenty eight taps in use, the choice of Piwo was restricted.

There was a NEIPA, it had to be. Vermont (Browar Pivojad, Polska) at 4.8% was no more than a gentle start to the day, it had to be after the excesses of Piwna Stopa (Poznan).

Marg was outside on the verandah having a video call with her Friday Coffee chums, this left me to choose my next Bier. Desert (Browar Raduga, Polska) was not a good choice. A DDH IPA at 6.3% tasted as bad as it looked, if I can get away with that for once. The tasting notes are here.

A few nights back in Berlin we dined pukka at the India Club, there would be no Curry-Heute. Instead we took the opperchancity of visiting the type of establishment one would likely have to book well in advance.

Restauracja Fino was again minutes from our present locale, we timed our arrival well, any later and we could have been turned away. Fine dining – there are no photos, why spoil the mood? Hors d’oeuvres, amuse bouche, palate cleanser, it all came, each offering described and explained. I felt decidedly underdressed, still, I know how to hold a knife and a fork when I have to. (I hate having to use a knife.) Marg enjoyed the experience, bring on the Curry Cafes.

It was raining intermittently as we headed past the lions to Labeerynt. Still Hector was finding amusements for Marg before the real business of the day. We descended into the basement bar, I had been here before yet I didn’t know what to expect. Back in 2016 there was a decidedly rough crowd in here, tonight it was quiet. Again this suited.

Hopito’s – Pizza Vibe, the IPA which has been the highlight of the last two nights was waiting for Hector! Bring it on! I could happily have stayed here all night, however, my favourite Gdansk bar – Lawendowa 8 – was on the itinerary.

Before moving on I had to try the collaboration with Fyne Ales, a brewery which was turning out some outrageously good Cask Ales when they had a certain New Zealand brewer with them a few years back. Unfortunately, I cannot rate Pinta above the level of competent when it comes to Piwo. The Hazy Disco Highland at 7.1% had potential, being a DDH DIPA it ticked the present – obsession – box. NEIPA is good, DIPA is better. I would blame the Polish after-taste for spoiling this Bier, another – Pinta disappointment.

The walk to Lawendowa 8 was again a short hop. It was chucking it down, my vision was impaired such that I tripped over something as I made my way past the throng outside this much revered venue, and its sister shop – Cafe Lamus – next door. Lawendowa 8 was the busiest venue encountered in the Polish leg of this trip.

Marg secured a table whilst I socially distanced myself in the queue at the bar. AleBrowar brew Rowing Jack, so any new Piwo by them catches the eye. El Fruto was just what was being hoped for in terms of style. An 8.0% Hazy Juicy DIPA, this could be the Bier to wind everyone with back home. I started small and soon went large. This full on – Milkshake – had a prominent Mango flavour but the sourness avoided any sickliness. A session DIPA, Lawendowa 8 had lived up to hopes/expectations once more.

Marg and I sat on a cinema-style pair of seats, backs against the wall, nobody facing us, all quite safe, relatively. Groups were huddled around the adjacent tables in the way one used to take for granted. As time passed so the numbers diminished, our final hour or so was in the new normal.

En route back to the Ibis I showed Marg the not so late night Kebap shop where I nearly managed to order a Donner one night, but a phone-call from the dear lady stopped me in my tracks, I lost out. For those who have the late night munchies, there is a suitable venue on the stretch outside Hala Targova, better to be sure, visit this one.

Saturday, September 26th

Soon after our arrival in Gdansk yesterday, we purchased our onward tickets for tomorrow’s leg to Warszawa. Gdansk Glowny remains a challenge. The PKP tickets were purchased in a portacabin, a sensible place to return to. Nope, there’s a booth on the platform for the local SKM trains. Gone is the subterranean ticket office of yesteryear. Maybe the station refurbishment will be finished next time I visit?

Day tickets in hand, it was northwards to Sopot. Social distancing was being adhered to on what was a busy train. Marg was last in a Baltic seaside resort back in 2012 when we went to Binz on Rügen Island, also taking in  Peenemünde and Prora. This was classic – Hector’s Horrible Holidays.

Marg would only appreciate Sopot after she had Coffee & Cake. Santa Cafe had outstanding revues on various media and being located off-street, maybe quiet. Walking down past the kirk and encountering the statue of the bear, Marg was already impressed.

Santa Cafe lived up to all expectations, and indeed surpassed them such that Marg had coffee and tea thus permitting more cake. This was Marg’s type of venue, luxury, pampering. After last night’s dinner I knew I had to break the spell and remind her that Curry in Gdynia awaited.

Sopot was busy, it’s the weekend. The beach called, sand under our feet has been a rarity in 2020. Check the swans, what was going on here? Swans in the sea, does the Queen know about this?

We found the queue to purchase tickets to access the pier. Paying to get on the pier, don’t tell Brighton. Sopot pier was indeed Binz #2.

It’s late September, probably the last chance to have an ice cream at the seaside. Marg abstained, however, I made sure there were incriminating photos, always useful.

More Coffee & Cake. Once more I located a venue which was a bit off the beaten track.

Las Cafe was more Bohemian, a suitable step down from that which had preceded it, still, another decent Hector choice.

The rest of the day belonged to Hector. AleBrowar have opened in Sopot since my last visit in 2016. Despite the Gdynia outlet being our ultimate venue for this evening, AleBrowar Sopot had to be checked out. In contradiction to what it said on the door, AleBrowar Sopot was not open, next time. This left No.5 beer house & coffee bar which is located directly up the main drag, and across a busy road.

What a place, and coffee too. No.5 was possibly even larger than Cathead (Gdansk) and had a better selection of Piwo.

Artezan’s West Coast IPA – Mera – at 6.5% became the natural successor to Rowing Jack. It was time to establish how this stood up to 2020, the NEIPA and rapidly developing DIPA fascination. One has to accept this for what it is, and along with Siostra Bozenaka (Browar Podgorz) still one of the best three Polish IPAs encountered yet.

Next up was a DDH DIPA – Proof of Hops – a 6.7% collaboration with Browar Nepomucen and Maltgarden. Despite the promise of the Milkshake appearance, this was thin and the Polish after-taste made this a disappointment. I have had five other – Browar Nepomucen – Piwo to date, Hogeita Bost (7.5% NEIPA) and Road (5.9% Vermont IPA) have been the best.

Staying in Sopot must be more expensive than staying in Gdansk, but this could become the choice in the future. However, Gdynia despite two previous visits remains unexplored, and it has a Curry House which may be the best in the Tri-Met area. We walked through the shopping mall which is part of Sopot station. I like how the Poles have made a feature of their train stations, a focal point of every town, hives of activity. The mall was deserted.

We alighted one stop before Gdynia Glowny, Taj Mahal is halfway between the two. Here was the opperchancity to see more Polish architecture. What I didn’t want was a test of tolerance which was a feature of the meal at Taj Mahal. Why can people not control their weans? More rain en route, and a boisterous group at our next venue, was not what the Hector wanted.

There was a choice from eight taps at Pub Beczka Chmielu, a new venue just down from AleBrowar Gdynia. Browar Hopito’s – Lunapark – at 6.2% had to be tried. If it was close to their excellent Pizza Vibe enjoyed over the two night s at Piwna Stopa (Poznan), then all would be well.

Getting served was an issue, Hector the polite even gave way when the barman failed to establish who was first. Why can they not ask when they don’t know? Simples.

Lunapark had the appearance but nothing approaching the hoped for lactose or body.

The Polish after-taste was there, one day I’ll work out which Hop this is, or is it really just a Polish thing? A Big Bier, a one of, AleBrowar had to better.

The downstairs in AleBrowar was busy, upstairs was what we sought, peace, space, social distancing. I have seen AleBrowar Wroclaw post their new DIPAs over the last year or so, no sign of them tonight. Rowing Jack had to be sampled for old times sake, El Fruto was there too. How we got from IBU 70, to where we are, amuses. Are we drinking – Sweet Bier? As reported above, there is nothing – sweet – about El Fruto.

Rowing Jack at 6.2% still packs a punch, but takes a bit of getting used to after the smoothness of the current obsession. One cannot drink the same thing all night, says the man who hopped on the SKM back to Gdansk to have more El Fruto at Lawendowa 8.

Having taken a sensibly timed train back to Gdansk, Marg was still accepting the night was young, well almost. The same table awaited at Lawendowa 8, the same staff were on duty, however, all was not well. The Doris should have sent the young chap serving home, or taken someone through from next door. Glasses were dropped, customers not spotted, a mess. Still, he drank on, serving himself before others, not professional.

My final thoughts were – is it worth coming back to Gdansk? Sopot is as easy to get to from the airport, Gdynia remains relatively unknown. The future will reveal all.

Bars, Coffee Houses and Restaurants visited:

Cathead Multitap Bar  – Powroznicza 19/20, 80-828 Gdansk

Labeerynt  –  Szeroka 97, 80-835 Gdansk

Lawendowa 8  –  Lawendowa 8, 80-837 Gdansk

Restauracja Fino  –  Grzaska 1, 80-833 Gdansk

No. 5 beer house & coffee bar  –  ul, Bohaterow Monte Cassino 5/U2, 81-805 Sopot

AleBrowar Sopot –  Podjazd 11, 81-805 Sopot

Santa Cafe – Bohaterow Monte Cassino 38/5, 81-759 Sopot

Las Cafe – Jana Jerzego Haffnera 42, 81-708 Sopot

AleBrowar Gdynia  –  Starowiejska 40B, 81-357 Gdynia

Pub Beczka Chmielu –  Starowiejska 28, 81-356 Gdynia

Taj Mahal  –  Antoniego Abrahama 86, 81-001 Gdynia

Posted in Gdansk, Gdynia, Sopot | Comments Off on Two Nights in Gdansk-Sopot-Gdynia

A Much Happier Return To Poznan

Posted on September 24, 2020 by Hector

Wednesday, September 23rd

Hector’s last visit to Poznan in March of this year has been well documented and oft referenced – Escape from Polska! Four hours sitting on Poznan’s bus station floor is not recommended. When the Berlin bound bus failed to show, so began the application of the Geography through which Hector survived thirty four years of teaching that very subject.

Today, Marg and Hector did the route in reverse, in comfort and at a fraction of the cost. Crossing into Ost Deutschland by foot from Slubice to Frankfurt (Oder) is an experience Hector is never going to forget.

Checking out of the Ibis at Alexanderplatz before noon and checking in to the new Ibis in Poznan, which is actually walkable from the train station, makes Berlin and Poznan is no more than Glasgow to Manchester.

The Ibis Poznan Centrum is adjacent to Stary Browar, the Old Brewery, now a shopping mall. Around the corner, Polwiejska, a pedestrianised street with shops and restaurants, leads to plac Wiosny Ludow. This is the major tram interchange on the south side of the old town square – Stary Rynek. Around here lies one of Hector’s favourite playgrounds in Europe, this is Craft Beer Central. The – ontap – app is hopefully complemented by Bier-Traveller.com. Hector relates what each bar is like, ontap.pl reliably shows what Piwo is on in each pub.

Knowing that we were in for a big night at Piwna Stopa, Marg had to be both fed and amused prior to meeting up with Szymon, our host for the evening.

The ritual photos of Rynek, complete with the 1960s monstrosities, were completed, time to eat.

Restauracja Ratuszova lies on the south-east corner of Rynek, a venue we enjoyed a few years back, one particular photo has appeared in despatches.

Due to Koronawirus, most diners were outside enjoying the evening warmth, this left the interior of the restaurant empty. We were given the same table as last time, a fact that would be shared with the staff who were exemplary in their service and care.

*

To see a table set for a large group amassed, no groups of six here. A large group of chaps assembled in the downstairs seating area. Polska has a much lower Covid rate than the UK (not difficult), but as everyone was about to tell us, it is rising.

Marg was considering a Salad or similar but ended up with a multi-meat dish. Hector had Tomato Soup followed by the best Perogi, ever. The red wine sauce made all the difference. As is our way, this is a venue we shall have to visit on every future visit to Poznan.

We walked the few blocks to the north of Rynek, Piwna Stopa was remarkably quiet. As with the UK and Deutschland, fewer people are out these days. Instead of our usual table hard up against the bar, we took the table opposite, more space, social distancing if required.

Time to inspect the Board. Thirteen taps eight of which were in the contemporary style that Hector presently seeks. Rowing Jack (Ale Browar) was the yardstick Piwo for years, now this is categorised as being at the – rough – end of the IPA taste scale. Bring on the Milkshakes – NEIPA and DIPA.

Easy Peasy (Dear Bear, Polska) at 6.0% kicked things off. This DDH NEIPA was darker than expected, approaching a milkshake with a decent body, but was not quite there in terms of flavour. Marg had a Cola.

Marg had spotted Szymon at the far end of the pub watching the football. We did so also with the TV above our table. Lech Poznan won convincingly.

Szymon joined us, one can tell how pleased we were to see each other. Hector was bearing gifts, Szymon had asked me to bring him some traditional English Ale. On being asked why he desired such an archaic style of of Bier his reply – because I like it. Whilst I’ll take the risk of bottles popping their tops on a return flight, no way am I doing this on the outward, so cans it had to be.

Unfortunately Fullers – London Pride – is all I could find in cans locally before we flew to Berlin. Mixed emotions – may describe the reaction.

My second choice of Piwo this evening was the Hazy IPA – Blurry at 6.2% (Funky Fluid, Polska). Another Milkshake in appearance with the desired root taste. The enjoyment was marred by a slight astringency.

Szymon assured me that Pizza Vibe (Browar Hopito, Polska) is what I really desired, that is what he was drinking and would be the Piwo for the rest of the night. This Milkshake IPA was quite exceptional. With Sabro, Nelson Sauvin and Citra hops it had the desired flavours with nothing spoiling it in the aftertaste. At 6.1% this was a relatively safe Session Bier.

Szymon disappeared for a moment then returned with a bottle of Aberlour twelve year old, except I knew it wasn’t. Last year, Dr. Stan, Steve, Szymon and Hector did damage to a bottle of Wodka of domestic heritage. Tonight we were three, and one was Marg.

More Piwo arrived, shots were poured – Nazdravi – down they went. Smooth, Vanilla, this was sound, don’t even think to ponder over the abv. Marg was on board, oh no.

The baby photos came out, Szymon, the proud daddy. This kept Marg involved, the conversation was not all about Bier. Szymon admitted to his fascination with – feet – as if the name of the pub didn’t give that away. He also told us he is taking over the premises directly across the lane.  This will sell cheaper Czech Piwo, no point competing with himself.  As the children grow up, so they may take the big step.

In time two friends of Szymon were invited to join us, quite a party. Party on.

At the time of our leaving, pairs of glasses were assembled on the table, a challenge to get these all home in one piece, and I don’t mean just back to the Ibis, ten more days, four more cities, and a flight home. Cheers, Szymon, until next time.

Thursday, September 24th

Needless to say we were not up so early this morning. The mission for the day was to verify the existence of the nine new Curry Houses which have reportedly popped up in Poznan in the last year or so. Lunch was had at Taj Mahal which lies on the east side of Stare Miasto.

Thereafter it was Coffee on Rynek and the spotting of a third Ministerstwo, more on them later. We then headed west to the new town and across the railway to parts of Poznan previously unexplored. The Craft Beer House, which was once over there, has gone leaving the Old Town the focus of things Bier related.

Having declared it was Bier o’clock, we headed to Jabeerwocky Craft Beer Pub just off Rynek. A first visit, so presumably this is a new-ish venue. Fifteen taps, but only one NEIPA, Daydream at 5.1% by Browar Szpunt, Polska. Amber, decidedly not in the Milkshake style, this Piwo looked and tasted nothing like a NEIPA. That I was getting the dreaded – Brett – from it made matters worse. This Bier was bogging.

Still, Jabeerwocky looks to be a decent pub, more details shown here.

We crossed Rynek to another early opening venue in Poznan, Van Gogh. The ontap app stated that Hector’s long term favourite Piwo – Rowing Jack (Ale Browar) was available. As is often the case at Van Gogh, a young girl was serving, the Bier was poured, something soft for Marg.

Given the smoothness of NEIPA/DIPA, Rowing Jack must come under the category of – rough – IPA. A couple more and the palate would no doubt have adjusted. At 6.2%, more than Oakham’s Green Devil (6.0%) which is regarded by some as a Session Ale in Glasgow. Rowing Jack still has an edge.

The first Ministerstwo  outlet in Poznan was on the edge of Stare Miasto at Ratajczaka. Their second outlet on Wroniecka is precisely two blocks west of Piwna Stopa, another Multi Tap Bar. The third premises passed this morning appears to be primarily a Wodka Bar. After Van Gogh, it was round the corner to Ministerstwo Wroniecka, for once Dom Piwa had nothing to entice.

Milky Day at 5.0%, a Milk Shake IPA brewed for Minister under contract turned out to be too dark, muddy even, to be taken seriously. The after-taste was all wrong, another disaster, we didn’t hang around long. Piwna Stopa had an array of good Piwo awaiting. No Szymon tonight, however, the chaps behind the bar have been there long enough to maintain the level of service.

To go straight on to Pizza Vibe would have been too obvious. Skate Zone (Browar Hopito) at 5.8% is an IPA Milkshake with Nelson Sauvin and Citra hops, the little brother of Pizza Vibe (Browar Hopito). This was another excellent Bier from Hopito, a brewery I hadn’t encountered until yesterday.

Last night, Szymon described the extension to his food menu, time to give it a go.

Simon promised that the Chilli Dog would testing, it was. Marg had a Toastie which arrived with a Gherkin, that came my way. Polish Gherkins, yay!

Next up was the two Bier option, just in case. The amber NEIPA at 6.7% by Browar Nieczajna, Polska and a Pizza Vibe. The – New England Pale Ale – at least was not sweet and had no astringency, but had little to offer in the way of hops.

Thereafter, the night took care of itself, the accompanying Pizza Vibe was fulfilling, until Marg decided it was time for some Hazelnut Wodka. Well, why wouldn’t you?

There was a wee football match on TV this evening, FC Bayern v Sevilla. There was even a crowd, of sorts. No surprise as to who won.

Posted in Poznan | Comments Off on A Much Happier Return To Poznan

Berlin – Another Night to Remember @ Bräugier Brew Pub – Prenzlauer Berg

Posted on September 22, 2020 by Hector

Hector’s second batch of 3 nights in Berlin within a fortnight ended this evening.  With Marg for company this time, the original plan was for two nights only, however, Bräugier is presently open four nights a week, the last two were not them. A trip to Berlin and no visit Bräugier, no way, Pedro!

There was no Curry-Heute, last night’s extravaganza at the lavish – India Club – was – a night to remember. Instead, we had Brunch al fresco at Hackescher Markt, one of Marg’s favourite Berlin locations. We had markedly different ideas about that which was required to break our fast.

The DDR Museum was visited a while back, today it was the turn of the Stasi Museum located just off the always impressive Frankfurter Allee.  TV and Movies have combined to make the interior of this building evocative of the tragic and the comedic practices associated with this complex.

More on this – here.

Berlin, East and West, for reasons unknown, Hector led Marg further east  and so she missed seeing the site of the former Beermeile and the flagship Communist architecture of Frankfurter Allee in daylight.

Back in the heart of Berlin, we took the tram up to Prenzlauer Berg.  Two weeks ago we found that the Stone Brewing Taproom was no more.  Hector was keen to see the rrebirth. A pleasant hour was therefore spent at Manifest Taproom, the sister shop to the excellent Protokoll Taproom. 

At Manifest, the outstanding Zagovor – Against Milk at 6.5% was waiting. This NEIPA Milkshake just gets better and better. A wee Cantillon Kriek washed it down.

The ritual walk to Bräugier took us past Message in a Bottle – Craft Beer Cafe, which definitely requires further investigation.

There was a sigh of relief in finding Bräugier open.  The optimum table in front of the bar was free. Brian was in situ behind the bar, Colin was doing whatever it is he does. Marg of course was remembered having been here in summer 2019.

Tonight the board had ten taps on offer, to sit all night drinking the outstanding God-Damn Zilla was tempting, but at 8.1%, maybe not a good idea. The  Märzen Festbier at 5.3% was a new one.  A strange tasting brew, not quite Deutsch, not quite US. I shall admit that one was quite enough.  Back to the good stuff. Later, I had Nächtswarmer at 5.2%, a decent smokey Bier, however, God-Damn Zilla was always the go-to Bier.

Colin joined us and brought Alex from Yorkshire who has worked at a Sheffield brewery. Having spoken to no-one but Hector for three days, even Marg was happy to talk – Bier. I had heard the name – Friedrich – being mentioned, so when a couple joined us, I assumed this was he. But no, this was Thomas the baritone, whose name I’m sure was Friedrich in another opera. We had quite a table, tales were told, including how – Totalitarian Book Club – came to be named.

This was turning into a wild night.

Marg needed food. 

We’ll get a Kebap on the way home.  Marg fell for this.

Somehow, Amir, the owner of the dog spotted across the room had also joined us, Marg was in her element, this is Malibu.

We were well and truly in with – The Locals. Colin also outlined that prior to Lockdown, many had never spoken to each other, but when forced to drink outside, the inevitable happened.  Sit at the bar – when possible.

The tram, minutes after midnight, took us down to Alexanderplatz.  Never did I think I’d find Marg in a Kebap shop this late.  Having learned the lesson two weeks ago, we shared a Donner. Marg enjoyed it. 

 

Tomorrow Poznan, then Katowice, this is just the beginning.

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