Day 12 – Monday, April 1st Sydney
The Qantas flight from Brisbane down to Sydney felt decidedly short at under two hours. We did have to put our clocks forward as New South Wales operates in a different time zone from Queensland, which is directly due north. Time zones are usually determined by longitude, not latitude, but maybe length of day is sufficiently different in Sydney to justify this.
Our approach took us over Botany Bay, I’ve heard of that. With onboard WiFi, I was able to track one’s location.
Arriving in the Domestic Terminal meant progress through Sydney Airport was uncomplicated. We followed the signs for the train – T – and – T8 – the regular service took us to Wynyard passing though Circular Quay. We had our first glimpse of both the Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge.
Sydney, tick. We could have just gone back to the airport, but six days is the allocated stopover, one day more than most major cities can justify. With nobody to meet in Sydney, well maybe one chap, Marg had her agenda, Hector had his, compromise required. Who mentioned the zoo?
Ibis Barangaroo is just downhill from Wynyard towards Darling Harbour we would discover when we found the right exit from the station. Floor seven, the top floor again. I suppose the length of stay guarantees a high floor.
The sun was shining, the temperature mid 20s but Hector was still in shoes, the right foot. The Bridge and Opera House could wait for tomorrow. We headed down to Darling Harbour. A Big Blue Sky welcome, this felt like the place to be, thanks to Ryno for picking this Ibis from the three I proposed.
4 Pines Brewing, or one of their now seemingly ubiquitous brewpubs, was found with no effort, later. We weren’t even halfway round the Harbour when Marg declared it was time for Ice Cream.
The girls at Love Bomb Candy, behind the artwork at Cockle Wharf, were numerous, hence underemployed. Modest Ice Creams set us up for the rest of the Bay walk. Madame Tussaud’s, a Sea Life centre, Hector could sense the days in Sydney taking on a predictable path. Still no idea where the zoo is.
On the far side of Darling Harbour was a Sofitel and a decidedly more glamorous Ibis than ours. Kerching! – saved. The Aussies had a submarine, and a warship. The sailing ship reminded me of The Carrick which was berthed on the Clyde for decades between sinking and re-floating, once or twice.
A passing couple more or less insisted they take our photo with the Darling Harbour vista.
They just happened to be here on their own yacht, I suppose I would be telling everyone too.
The Australian flag must have know the date and was determined to fly the wrong way today.
The pedestrian bridge took us back across the bay and gave us height as we entered the city proper. The bridge would also give Marg a flat running route in the coming days.
The main city streets were congested, with people on foot. Always on the look out for something – old – The Victoria Building – looked to be a fine piece of architecture.
Town Hall was nothing special, the church-like building hidden behind the trees was left for another day. Chinatown lay to the south, after Chinatown-Singapore this had to be investigated.
The covered market contains a – Paddy’s Market. Chinatown as such is minimal and lies across the street. The foremost Hunan restaurant in the area was closed, Easter Monday. There was a fallback – Spice Paradise. Such was the impact made by the food served here, this Hunan restaurant deserves its own page in Bier-Traveller, only the second restaurant to achieve this status, the other being Brandy Ho’s in San Francisco, also Hunan.
This was the Spiciest food the Hector has ever encountered and eaten. Totally destroyed, there had to be pints of, anything. Sydney Brewery was a few minutes away, in Surry Hills. This was found to be an hotel, and was closed, Easter Monday. How can a hotel bar be closed for a religious holiday?
A few blocks north and back in the direction of home lies Surry Hills Hotel. A hotel bar, sports bar, a watering hole.
With no Bier of note and desperation being the situation, the Hector did not panic. 
Cider, Bulmers, it disappeared as did the second. Marg was on the phone to somebody and failed to notice the short lived first pint.
Ryno had mentioned The Bavarian, a chain of bars serving Deutsche-Bier in which he had spent his formative years. This was tracked down, or up, in a mini-mall. Closed, Easter Monday.
Opposite lay Sydney Cidery which turned out to be another tap for Sydney Brewery. Hector would have his first Bier in Sydney and from Sydney Brewery.
Newfangled at 6.2%, a Hazy IPA / NEIPA was gold, hazy but lacked the hoped for hop flavours. Instead there was a sharpness associated with the West Coast. 
Methinks too many breweries are jumping on the bandwagon, they need to be seen to have a NEIPA and so fudge it.
Sydney Cidery itself was a grand, flashy joint, again a hotel appeared to be incorporated, or was that the other way around?
Darling Harbour by night, we had to see it. And so we strolled up the east side back towards our hotel. Sporting Globe x4 Pines was open, oh no it wasn’t. Closing early, Easter Monday. Stop advertising yourself as being open when you’re not – I advised the bar person.
Next door at Henley’s, the same story. Just give me a Bier.
Bungalow 8 was playing ball. Despite a Bier sent all the way across the planet to annoy me, or had it been brewed locally, there was honourable Bier to be had. Having walked out of the James Squire brewpub in Brisbane, here was the same Bier.
150 Lashes at 4.2%, a Premium Pale Ale, was yellow with a slight haze. Thin and with no distinctive hops one assumes the Amarillo and Galaxy had just been waved over the glass.
Two Mainstream breweries, Hector needs to find better. Tomorrow, and Curry should start the day.
Breweries, brewery tap, restaurant and cafe visited:
Sydney Cidery – 389 Pitt St., Sydney NSW
Surry Hills Hotel – 198 Elisabeth Street, Sydney NSW 2000
Bungalow 8 – 3 Lime St., Sydney NSW, 2000
Spice Paradise – Shop 4/203-209 Thomas St., Haymarket, Sydney NSW 2000
Love Bomb Candy – Shop 104/105 Cockle Bay Wharf, Sydney NSW 2000
Day 13 – Tuesday, April 2nd Sydney 
Marg had already captured photos of a famous bridge by the time Hector rose from slumber #2. This was not Hector’s #1 priority for the day, Curry at Lal Qila, a matter of metres from Ibis Barangaroo, was foremost in the mind.
Lal Qila was open as advertised but was only offering Buffet at lunchtime. Having verified the menu with Mein Host, we promised to return later. This meant some sort of snack was required.
Marg’s choice turned out to be more Takeaway than sit in. With the majority of seats outside and the rain not far away, we needed another venue. Bottega Coco was decidedly more salubrious.
In for a penny, on seeing the ridiculous white chocolate cake, it had to be. To share, still the most expensive individual cake the Hector has ever purchased. One labours the point such that these moments are recorded for evermore.
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With hot and cold running waitresses, we were well looked after. Sparkling water, coffee and comfort. The heavens decided to participate their surplus moisture, weeze weren’t going anywhere soon. At an adjacent table there was much noise and hilarity, they were on the wine, a bit early surely? Hector checked out the Bier taps, bog standard.
It was finally safe to begin the day’s trek, no more rain forecast. Marg pointed out the open air cinema where people were expected to lie on double beds. Maybe in the height of summer.
This area reminded me of Bradford’s Forster Square. There was a vast open space, with enough dereliction to suggest it had once been a major railway terminal. Tell me otherwise. As we rounded the corner separating the bays, Barangaroo Reserve gave way to The Rocks as Sydney’s most famous locus is identified.
There was a photo frenzy, Marg engaged a passing Japanese chap, not the best photographer in the World. What happened to the generation of Japanese who had cameras permanently around their necks and snapped everything? Ah, so!
Let’s face it, if you’ve been to Newcastle upon Tyne, you’ve already seen the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
OK, Sydney’s is longer, higher, and has probably been photographed more.
Circular Quay is rectangular, still, this is the focal point of tourism, Bridge to the west, Opera House to the right, as one looks out to sea. The giant liner would depart, and soon be replaced by another. One wonders where they go?
The skyline looking landwards towards Circular Quay is dramatic, more photos required.
At the head of the quay was a name the Hector recognised: James Squire, so not just a Brisbane-based microbrewery then.
Having walked out of the Brisbane outlet, a second chance was mooted, especially having had 150 Lashes last night. Ginger Beer for Marg, Hector studied the form.
Hoppy Daze, a Hazy Pale Ale, at 5.6% was asked for, Hop Thief, an APA, at 5.8% was poured. Who wasn’t paying attention? On another day I would have taken the wrong Bier, not the end of the World. Sod it, I’m having what I want!
Lesson, Daze does not equal Haze. This was little more than an ice-cold Lager with a bit more Malt.
But look at the view!
We headed south into the heart of Sydney. Navigating here is not a problem, the streets go the right way, no offset angles a la Brisbane. The Sun at noon is to the north. Still getting used to this.
On passing a mock-up of an opal mine, I had to stop. Father brought an opal back from Australia for Mother in the 1950s. Marg has inherited this pro tem. Arthritis restricted Father’s hand movements in later life. He found that gem tumbling was one hobby he could embrace. Father’s final years were spent in Australia, married to the gal he had met before Mother. Hector’s heritage takes on a new twist. Can I apply for Australian citizenship?
Lal Qila was both welcoming and wonderful. To find Curry of this quality here in Sydney was comforting and reinforced that truly authentic IndoPak Cuisine is way better than the Mainstream.
The rain was back. Is this how this trip is going to unfold? Hotel Sweeney’s was the next venue.
Untappd revealed that the Rooftop Bar at Hotel Sweeney’s had Craft Beer. Not only that, a choice of NEIPAs!
A hotel bar, as with yesterday’s Surry Hills Hotel, is this a throwback to the – six o’clock swill? What was the point of opening a pub if it had to close at 18.00 each day? Hotels could accommodate this.
The ground floor at Sweeney’s is a Sports Bar. The first floor has a restaurant, the second a pool table and seating. It is quite a climb to the roof. Marg was leading the way, twice she stopped. Can you see the sky yet?
Dwarfed by surrounding buildings, the view was somewhat restricted, but we witnessed the sunset. Marg took seats at the end of a high table. There was cover, just. Hopefully the adjacent chaps would not set fire to anything that comes in small packets. Nicotine has been distinctly absent on this trip, to date.
The girls behind the bar were pouring Bier with great enthusiasm. It was the chap who highlighted the style the Hector sought. In the end, two from White Bay Beer Co., Rozelle, were the choices. Rozelle is a western suburb of Sydney.
Ta Da at 6.9% is a classic Hazy IPA / NEIPA with a full haze. Mosaic, Strata and Nelson Sauvin hops featured. With the required tropical juiciness, this is what we want.
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The Aussies are loud. Why sit up here listening to this cacophony? Marg went down to the ground floor bar, Hector followed with the second Bier.
On Middle Earth, another NEIPA at 6.2% had a slight tartness after Ta Da. Nectaron, Superdilic and Nelson Sauvin hops provided the pedigree. With the full haze, this was a decent Bier regardless.
The ground floor had fewer customers, chaps drinking the bog standard, but they were loud too. Time to move on.
Darling Harbour had to be functioning as normal tonight, surely? 4 Pines, it keeps being mentioned, never open, finally, Hector had his 4 Pines Bier.
The Sporting Globe x 4 Pines is one of who knows how many brewing sites with this moniker?
Hazy Pale Ale at 6.0% featured Nectaron and Idaho 7 hops. Despite the haze, this yellow Bier was way too thin, again a slight tartness, but otherwise, fine.
A four Bier day, comfortable. Time to return to the Ibis and claim a spot in the lobby where words such as these can be recorded.
Breweries, and restaurants visited:
The Sporting Globe x 4 Pines – 22 , Sydney, NSW 2000
James Squire Brewery- The Squire’s Landing – Northern end of the Overseas Passenger Terminal, Circular Quay W, The Rocks, Sydney NSW 2000
Rooftop Bar, Hotel Sweeney’s – 236 Clarence St, Sydney NSW 2000
Bottega Coco – Shop 1 T3.01/300 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo, Sydney NSW 2000
Lal Qila Darling Harbour – 30 Lime St, Darling Harbour, Sydney NSW 2000
Day 14 – Wednesday, April 3rd Sydney, Manly
Having done Sydney yesterday, we were in the hands of the advisers. Caroline, the niece, had planted Manly in Marg’s mind. Manly, a beach, way more cool than visiting Bondi, we were told. As surfing was not an issue, who…
Blue Mountains, the agreed destination for tomorrow. Zoo on Saturday. On Friday, Hector will be permitted to visit One Drop Brewing as recommended by Julia. Remember Julia? Not doing so well on the Sydney brewing front then.
Booking a local excursion online, too many bad experiences: buses not turning up at the agreed spot etc. I located some travel agents, we looked at two. The first was all about Japanese freight, the other wholesale. At least we got to ride twenty floors up in elevators to confirm this.
York Street, the main north-south thoroughfare – let’s trust to luck.
A chap in an airline office told us to book our Blue Mountains trip at the Tourist Information at Circular Quay, simples.
Let’s have breakfast at Circular Quay – suggested Hector.
That went down well.
Having sussed the north-south Trams terminate there:
Let’s jump on a Tram at Wynyard.
And so we did, but where do you tap on/off?
I asked a couple – before you get on!
Marg, we’re off next stop!
I hope this is the clarity that Bier-Traveller offers. Nowhere in my research were poles with tiny machines mentioned. Oh, and the Trams are called – Light Rail.
We managed to jump off, tap on, and with Marg’s holding the door get back on the same Tram.
The Hector is still slow from a standing start, the right foot.
At the Tourist Information, the queue was but a handful when we joined it, a mile long when we had finished. Why was my new Australian phone number not being recognised? Spam callers are finding me no problem.
Doris sold us two tickets for Blue Mountains, @£100.00 each. We could have taken the train for much less, but why fanny about with entrance fees etc.? A good guide can make the difference.
Frühstuck!
You choose.
The best advice and get out of gaol card, if it goes tits up then it’s not my fault.
Circular Quay is there a more expensive breakfast spot in Sydney?
Rossini At The Quay – the menu looked OK. Marg had her usual yoghurt and granola. Hector ordered – pork sausages with eggs. Poached eggs arrived. Hector never orders poached eggs. They were dry, not the dripping wet poached eggs served to me in the formative years. My first poached egg since York, at Betty’s. That was on top of Kedgeree, yum.
Sparkling Water? The chap who served hadn’t a clue, or much English. His boss had to step in, the customary Italian gestures accompanied. Mama, mia.
Manly, Ferry #1, tap on with the credit card, tap off, simples. Why are cities still using Oyster equivalents?
Hector and a boat, not a good combination. The sea was calm, and there was a distraction or two.
Oh, it’s Sydney, again.
There was the occasional reminder of what might have been: Australian coastal defense positions. But for Midway, the Japanese would have been here and the rest of history gone, as we know it. The Chinese are playing the long game.
Manly wasn’t far, just as well, and the sea was calm. Why were we going to Manly? A beach? After Berlin’s – Sea Life – last year, no way was Hector ever setting more than a toe in the Pacific.
Manly Wharf, to the left or to the right?
With buildings to the right, Hector led Marg to the left. A coastline walk as it turned out cutting through a restaurant. But not before Marg insisted on a – selfie. Hector subsequently produced a tripod. Compare, contrast.
Manly Waterworks, why did I feel compelled to send this photo to Nigel (Staggs, Musselburgh)?
Watch out! Penguins about – was posted all along the pathway. The penguins must have been on vacation, no not one.
In the year 2000, Hector put a toe in the Pacific at Venice Beach, Los Angeles. Today, a finger in the South Pacific. Cold water, Bali-hai!
At the agreed terminus of this walk there was a photo opperchancity. Time to prove that a camera still reigns supreme over a phone when zooming. The Lumix wins.
The alternative direction, to the one we had taken, took us through the main drag towards the beach on the far side, of what must have been a peninsula.
A long sandy beach, reminiscent of Agadir on December 25. Before the next trek there had to be liquid. 25ºC, still early in the day, sparkling water.
We had passed New Brighton Hotel, Taproom caught the eye. No Bier of interest, maybe just as well. The grand colonial style building had peeps on terraces above us.
A pint and a half of sparkling water please, no ice.
Will soda do?
No money changed hands. My sort of place. ‘Spoons in Manly?
We walked a good kilometre along the waterfront. I shall not dwell on the number of schools who had their girlies playing volleyball on the beach. Hector, the professional-still. Jack MacLean would have had weeks’ worth of material.
Ice Cream, it was time. At the far end of civilisation there was nothing. Has nobody read the work of – Hotelling’s The Engines of Our Ingenuity? This was a classic example of missed opperchancity.
We walked all the way back to Manly-proper. Ben & Jerry’s, really?
This is when today becomes interesting. The aforementioned chap at Aether Brewing (Brisbane) had given a short list of breweries worth visiting. From central Sydney to Brookvale looked like a complicated journey. There is a significant cluster of breweries in this suburb. Our new locus offered a new dimension. The recommended Broken Bay Brewing opened at 16.00. Too long to hang about. Aha! Bucketty’s opened at 15.00, better. I shall admit that Bucketty’s name was the initial attraction, and the promise of a NEIPA swung it.
A busy Bus 199 took us from the wharf bus station to Pittwater Rd after Harbord Rd. From there it was a few minutes to Bucketty’s.
What a place. Larger than many a micro, there was ample seating area. The promised NEIPA was available.
I was almost apologetic when I informed the serving Doris that this was but a stepping stone to Broken Bay.
Joe 2.0 at 7.1% was a bigger than expected start to the day’s Bier drinking. Whilst the hops could not be discovered, I suspect all the right ones were there. This was a decent NEIPA.
The step count was enhanced as we headed to Broken Bay. The entrance was a bit back from the road. Loads of seating outside for those who like that sort of thing. Hector was happy to find the place empty bar save two chaps engrossed at a table. The lady serving poured the Double Hop NEIPA at 6.4%. This was totally – in the style.
Featuring Citra, Galaxy, and Mosaic hops, this was truly enjoyable Bier, why was I leaving? Our stay was extended when one of the two chaps came over to check on our enjoyment. Brenton, the Brewer, accepted a Bier-Traveller – Calling Card – well it is in tiny writing on the back of the Curry-Heute – Calling Card.
Bier aside, this turned into a memorable visit. Brenton, the Brewer, spent a considerable time with us, talking – Bier. This is when Marg’s encyclopaedic knowledge of all the Breweries in all the World pays dividends. Marg can talk, at length about Bamberg, München, Köln. Marg famously had a litre in the Hofbräuhaus courtesy of Reinhold, the band leader. She even drank it. Marg has many a tale to tell. Hector got a few words in.
Brenton told of the barrel recycling system which is in operation. They don’t know where the barrels have been, or what has been in them. Even after the customary cleaning one Bier batch was ruined, contaminated by the dreaded – Brett. This cemented our contempt for this horrendous yeast infection.
Leaving was a case of tearing oneself away, The McVittie Arms could well have been declared. Brookvale, we were in the sticks and yet we had only scratched the surface We headed up the hill to catch the bus back to Manly Wharf. B1, the direct bus running from Mona Vale to Wynyard passed us, no need for the ferry then. For once it’s quicker by the frequent boat.
Mona Vale, this is where the Jon of Crawley resides, except he is abroad presently.
As the sun set we passed Sydney’s major landmarks, again. Of course there was more photos.
Back on dry land it was time for dinner. Harts Pub had been recommended, it was a few minutes walk from Circular Quay and uphill.
Harts Pub was like entering a time machine. One can state with confidence that this place has not changed in decades. Bier & Fud – was sorted. Via the QR code, Marg had a sensible portion of Fish & Chips, Hector ordered the – smaller – portion of Chicken Wings.
Death by Chicken.
The Bier was a Hazy Pale Ale at 5.0% from Six String Brewing, Erina, NSW.
A NEIPA according to Untappd, this had the full milkshake haze and featured Cashmere, El Dorado and Nelson Sauvin hops. A pleasant, smooth Bier, but a bit of a comedown from Broken Bay.
We walked back to the Ibis, it had been a long day. 19581 steps today, did I mention the sore right foot?
Breweries, Restaurant, Bar and Cafe visited today:
Bucketty’s Brewing Co., 26 Orchard Rd., Brookvale, Sydney NSW 2100
Broken Bay Brewing Co., 218 Harbord Rd., Brookvale, Sydney NSW 2100
Harts Pub – Essex St. & Gloucester St., The Rocks, Sydney NSW
Rossini At The Quay – Alfred St., Sydney NSW
New Brighton Hotel – 71 Corso, Manly Sydney NSW 2095
Ben & Jerry’s – Shop 5/25-27 Steyne, Manly Sydney NSW 2095
Day 15, Thursday, April 4th – Sydney & Blue Mountains
Blue Mountains, the must-see we were told, by so many, perhaps even – you! – the reader. Marg and Hector had also worked out the two remaining days. Friday, Botany, the locus of One Drop Brewing, Saturday, the Zoo.
Our Ibis wasn’t good enough we had to be collected from Sofitel at Wynyard at 08.10. The Hector had checked last night with their reception that this was the spot. Two other parties arrived as we stood in the shelter. Rain, ominous. Maybe there was shelter across the street.
£100.00 each to visit Blue Mountains, having signed up for this, I dared not look at the local train fare. We should have a guide our access should be prioritised. At what point would we visit his brother’s carpet factory?
Aaron, or – AA-Ron – as is happily to be remembered, mumbled a few words as we headed across the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Being driven across did not count, apparently we have to walk over it. Oh, no.
As we headed into Sydney’s western hinterland, so Aaron outlined the day. He wasn’t too confident about seeing the Blue Mountains. So, £200.00 down the drain then?
We then discovered that Featherdale Wildlife Park was on the itinerary, a stop in Leura for lunch, not inclusive, then on to Scenic World at Blue Mountains. The entry fees at Scenic World were presumably covered. There was some mumbled information about a ferry trip to conclude the day, those with the ability to tap on/off were fine, others would be taken care of.
I recall a trip Kenneth and Hector did from München to Kehlsteinhaus aka The Eagle’s Nest. The weather forecast was not optimal:
If one person says they want to continue to Obersalzberg, then we shall, else there is a fallback.
Kenneth stuck up his hand, the only person on the coach to do so:
I paid to see Kehlstein.
And so we went, and the sky cleared as if by magic. Excellent day.
Ninth day in Australia, it’s still warm here, so Marg and Hector set off from Sydney in matching t-shirts and shorts. Marg was horrified until she realised it would make us easy to spot.
Featherdale Sydney, home to the largest collection of Australian animals in the World. This was a – Brucie Bonus – for Marg who has to stop and address every animal she encounters. At Featherdale, all was well. A bit damp, but all the animals were happy to see us. Especially the Koalas whose network had no doubt advised them of our arrival: look extra cute.
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Feeding Kangaroos, it all seemed a bit – five days ago.
Oh, an Albino Kangaroo.
Once again, the Cassowaries intrigued. I wouldn’t like to encounter one without the fence between us.
I am coming to realise that Dingoes always look smug, as if they know something we can only speculate about. Maybe Meryl knows too.
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Penguins!
The highlight for Hector.
These were the smallest penguins of the species, they were glad to see us.
A Tasmanian Devil, hard to capture as it wouldn’t stay still. A Yellow-footed Rock Wallaby, it has a long tail.
More Kangaroos, just in case you need reminded where we are, and how much fun Marg was having.
Birds, lots of Birds.
One engaged with Marg, others were too busy eating, but the colours made them proud.
Then there was the Bird who lies to say – Nee! – … and tomorrow night’s dinner?
We grabbed a coffee and got back on the bus. Aaron says we can eat and drink on the bus as long as we don’t make a mess. It’s like being back at school, except we used to do the telling.
We were driven further west, inland towards Katoomba. By Leura, the temperature had plummeted some five degrees below the comfort zone, down to 12ºC. The rain looked ominous. Long trousers, in the day bag since the lesson learned back in Singapore. Need a warm top, last night I thought long and hard about this but decided otherwise. There must be a – kiss-me-quick – fleece to be purchased. I felt embarrassed when the best garments available in Leura proved to be haute couture. The clothes I have are the ones I need, I am not adding needless weight.
A second hand shop, or whatever grand name it had assumed, had a – Los Polos Hermanos – fleece on display. Had I sat on the pavement for a month, maybe it would have fitted me. Marg bought sweeties.
Our allocated time in Leura was running out. We hadn’t had lunch as was the expectation. Sausage rolls at the Chelsea Pie shop, coffee to go from the cafe next door who couldn’t serve us fast enough at a table. The umbrella was up more than it was down.
The Blue Mountains at Katoomba, the reason for the trip. Aaron said he would postpone taking us to the – Three Sisters – finger peaks until as late as possible – to give it time to clear. Scenic World was to amuse us until then.
The gift shop had an affordable fleece which the Hector could just about fit into. Anyone want a souvenir?
Entrance to Katoomba and the Three Sisters etc. is free. It’s the transport within which costs money. AS$58.00 entrance to Scenic World, plus maybe another AS$30.00 for the train had we come that way. Getting too Scenic World from the train station would have been an issue. Have I mentioned the rain? Add in AS$42.00 for Featherdale, plus the mumbled conclusion, and the near AS$200.00 day out by private coach feels justifiable. Plus, we had Aaron.
Scenic World has three modes of transport. The – Skyway – the yellow cable car across the valley. The – Cableway – the blue cable car to the forest floor, and the red ratchet – Railway, the steepest in the World, to take one back up again.
Red and blue are interchangeable. I’m glad we came back up in the red, going down would have been extremely hairy.
Temperate Rainforest, after today there was no doubt as to how this natural vegetation acquired its name.
It was coal-mining which brought peeps to this area initially. The boardwalk between the Cableway and the Railway is well signed.
Fifty minutes is the given time, we did it in little over thirty, with stops for photos.
Perhaps one is meant to have a picnic or take in the vista. Tree height is as far up as we could see. The retired Geographer did spot the – erratics.
The Railway is indeed steep, and shifts like a rocket.
The short hop across the valley on the Skyway proved the absurdity of the day. Trees, a valley? The Three Sisters? Scotch Mist! We took the Skyway, we had paid for it, Katoomba Falls lay on the other side. Gulfloss this was not. Watching a waterfall in the pouring rain, so rewarding.
The Skyway controller said – it’s always like this – as we returned to base. The cafes at Scenic World were closing, everyone back on the bus.
Scenic World, my arse – I said to Aaron as I got back on the coach.
For an idea of what the Three Sisters are about, look at their German equivalent which has been posted on the Homepage of the very website since its inception.
The passenger in the front seat handed everyone a shiny AS$10.00 note. No more mumbling, this was to pay for our ferry ride back to either Circular Quay or Darling Harbour at Barangaroo near our Ibis. But from were?
The chap sitting in front of us on the bus had left something in a shop in Leura. On our unplanned return to Leura, it was closed.
At least you didn’t lose your hat – was how the Hector consoled his disappointment.
His Benny-hat proudly featured the crest of – The Famous. This Canadian bought his hat – in a shop – in Glasgow one Sunday morning, his head was cold. He then continued his tour of the city, taking in the east where he was promptly challenged. He enjoyed the west end.
Sydney Olympic Park, clearly having signed up for a trip to Blue Mountains, this is what we wanted to see. One of our company was interested in the Hockey pitches.
A ten Dollar note, I haven’t spent any of the AS£100.00 I took out in cash in Brisbane. Now I had more. Australia is a near cashless society, but suddenly we each had the appropriate amount for a tip. Aaron thanked us all individually as we bade farewell at the ferry wharf. Had we all joined the masons?
Ferry 3 – (of 9) from Sydney Olympic Park took us down the, delightfully calm, Parramatta River passing Meadowbank, Abbotsford, Drummoyne, Birkenhead then both Greenwich and Putney.
Unsurprisingly we saw one of Sydney’s landmarks before turning into Darling Harbour.
The fleece was dumped, warmer clothes. At last (?) the Bologna jacket that Hector has been carrying on and off flights was put to use. South Island in New Zealand was expected to be the place of its inaugural unveiling. Haute coiture.
I could have played the – Curry Card – but gave way to Marg’s favourite food – Italian. Maybe it was the fine cut of the jacket which planted the seed.
The young waiter at the door of Vapiano said they weren’t taking walk-ins. With the rain becoming heavier, Hector was in no mood to start another search. It was agreed we could come back in an hour. He would remember us.
The Bavarian, a Aussie Bier chain which unsurprisingly serves Deutsche Bier was just along King Street.
We were given a table in full view of the musician whom everyone was ignoring. He wasn’t that bad.
Löwenbräu Helles for Hector, Cola for Marg. The serving Doris was taken aback when I insisted on paying up front. I wanted to leave at the moment of our choosing.
Back at Vapiano, our chap was nowhere to be seen. The rush had passed, no problem getting a table. Order by QR code, pay in advance. Gratuity, for what? We haven’t been served yet.
A Carbonara variant for Marg, Polpette for Hector. I like my meatballs to have meat in them. I suspect Chef was taking liberties with the ratio of breadcrumbs to meat. I stopped eating because I was bored with this pasta dish as much as I was full already. The cheesy bread to start was maybe excessive.
Sweeney’s Rooftop Bar has provided the best Bier found in Sydney so far. Marg stayed on the ground-floor in the main bar whilst I graced the stairs. Ordering Bier at an outside bar in pouring rain, desperation. Again there was a choice of NEIPAs and by the same New York Brewery.
Superhero Sidekicks (Kings County Brewers Collaboration, Brooklyn, New York, NY, USA) at 6.9% was a dark gold, suitably hazy with a pronounced body. The extensive array of hops appeared to have cancelled each other out, the opposite of synergy? Citra, Mosaic, Idaho 7, Cascade and Centennial were the hops from which a more intense flavour might have been expected.
Barks & Recreation, a 7.2% NEIPA faired a bit better. Darker than normal but still with the full haze, there was a rebound sharpness at the start. Once the Superhero had gone back to civvies, the sense of hops came across, as did the fruitiness. Citra, Simcoe, El Dorado and Motueka were working hard to make this Bier worthwhile. Actually, there was nothing here not to like. A grower.
A long day, a two Bier day, those stairs … a wet walk back to the hotel. Why was my umbrella dripping from the inside? Two final things to report:
From back home, the adviser who shall remain anonymous and suggested – Blue Mountains – said – it was like that when we went.
Marg has decided that we have seen enough animals in Sydney, Zoo on Saturday is aff.
Bars and restaurant visited today:
The Bavarian York St., 24 York St., Sydney NSW 2000
Rooftop Bar, Hotel Sweeney’s – 236 Clarence St, Sydney NSW 2000
Vapiano King Street – King Street & York Street, Sydney NSW 2000
Day 16 – Friday, April 5th Sydney
Rain has been mentioned oft in the last couple of weeks. All part of Hector’s master-plan in crossing the Equator with the ITCZ to the north of us. Needless to say, the rain that became serious last night was not for letting up. Today it was either heavy or heavier. There was not much incentive for leaving Ibis Barangaroo other than this was Hector’s Bier Day.
The local news channel had the typical scene of a spokesperson surrounded by peeps who just wanted to be on camera, telling us our fate. There be floods aplenty, but not where we were. It would take a tsunami, and some, for sea level to flood Downtown Sydney.
Early afternoon, Train 8 took us from Wynyard to Green Square. There, dodging puddles, we took Bus 309 in the direction of Botany Bay. We were incredibly close to the airport.
The couple of blocks walk into the industrial estate was lengthened by our arrival at Slow Lane Brewing, the last place I looked at on the map before getting off the bus. How to make your fellow traveller happy, not.
One Drop Brewing is co-owned by a friend of Julia’s, they went through primary school together in Nelson, New Zealand. In addition to securing Bier #1, I asked if Nick was around. No, but he would be informed of our presence if he showed.
Top Down, a 6.5% DDH NEIPA was just the Bier Hector sought. The full on haze was comfortably familiar. Smooth in the palate, dangerously easy to drink. What a fine array of hops: Riwaka, Citra Cryo, YQH 1320 (Yakima) and they were coming across well.
Marg wanted food and so risked a soaking by going to the van out-back. The Tacos may have been tasty, however, they were no more than a nibble, and so way overpriced.
Nick joined us, he had no idea who we were, the magic mention of – Julia – changed everything.
I messaged Julia back in Singapore – he’s never heard of you.
All things Bier were discussed, another opperchancity for Marg to display here empirical knowledge of the best locations in Europe. Nick stood Hector a Bier and Marg a soft drink, yay!
Things were about to get even better. The 16.00 Happy Hour was looming, a few minutes of temperance would pay dividends. On purchasing the next round, the full price es charged.
No Happy Hour?
The refund was immediate, a A$5.00 Bier tastes almost as good as a freebie.
Ready or Not at 7.0%, a Hazy IPA in the New England style according to a well known beer app. Citra, Idaho 7, Peacharine-Freestyle were present. Suitably mellow, and again easy drinking.
Whilst neither Bier was an outright winner, they were both among the best I have found in Oz.
The map suggests a back way from One Drop to Slow Lane. The map is wrong. It once again took longer than necessary to get there. And when I keep mentioning the rain, there’s a reason. Marg took one step beyond in search of coffee.
Slow Lane is a much smaller operation than One Drop. There was only one Bier that I could have.
Supersaturated at 6.7%, a Hazy IPA, lived up to its physical description but had a definite astringent aftertaste. This, in effect, made One Drop’s Bier even better. Citra, Mosaic, Motueka and Simcoe hops were present. The something not right might have been down to the yeast – London Ale.
This was a case of glad when it’s over.
Marg was back, the photographic record was completed, back to town.
With a return to Lal Qila still planned for tomorrow, after our non-visit to the zoo, I suggested we alight at Central Station and taken in North India Flavour – Street Food. One part of Hector’s meal was a standout. Read all about it – here.
A four Bier day, enough, there’s always tomorrow. Doug asked on social media if I had heard of Marrickville. I have now!
Just as well there’s no zoo tomorrow.
Breweries and restaurant visited today:
One Drop Brewing Co. – 5 Erith St., Botany, Sydney NSW 2019
Slow Lane Brewing – 30 Byrnes St., Botany, Sydney NSW 2019
North India Flavour – Street Food – 537 George St., Sydney NSW 2000
Day 17 – Saturday, April 6th – Sydney – Marrickville, St Peters
Blue skies! Rain, what rain? All was well with the World except Hector’s right foot. As soon as I stop walking it seizes, even at traffic lights. After a few minutes I could walk for Scotland. Having not worn sandals for a week, I wonder why, it cannot be down to that. Old age is the likely cause. At this rate Hector might need one of those boomerangs which doesn’t come back.
With the zoo no more, the plan for today: the first half belongs to Marg, the second to Hector. Actually, that’s how most days operate. We headed north from Barangaroo to find the ramp to the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Nothing like a good walk to prove the foot is really fine. For Hector this would not be a good walk for another reason.
On setting off we happened upon an entrance to Wynyard station, complete with escalators, metres from the Ibis Barangaroo. Handy for tomorrow.
On reaching The Bridge’s pedestrian entrance, a chap, whose job it was to tell us, directed us to the far side. Cyclists get one side, pedestrians the other. Climbing the stairs, we found cyclists being directed to the far side. Why do I find cyclists so annoying, and scooters even moreso?
The first metres, still over land, were high but not too uncomfortable.
By the time we were over the water, the acrophobia meter had swung far right. Those who know, understand, otherwise it can only be described as a paralysis coupled with terror. What I cannot source is – transferred acrophobia. If Marg goes close to the edge, the scenario is exactly the same. Even holding her phone over the rail to take photos triggers the feeling.
How to cope:
Don’t touch me!
Keep your distance.
I’ll walk, eyes down on the inside. I’ll force people to take the outside to overtake, I will undertake only. Two kids mucking about made me want to chuck them over, but I probably would feel that in an eating/drinking environment too.
OK, the view was worth it, and having my phone chained to my clothing appeases that terror, a bit.
At the mid-point, a passing couple decided our photo was being took. That was as close as I let Marg be through the entire crossing. Only one of Sydney Harbour’s attractions is visible from – The Bridge, strange that.
Milsons Point, the far side, all was well again. Bunkers required. There was a Curry House nearby, but a return to Lal Qila was still in Hector’s plan for the day. 
Kirribilli Woodfire Kitchen has a good rating and was right in front of us. Here Sparkling Water was on the house. A la Bologna where there are public fonts issuing both fresh and sparkling water, why are we paying so much for this?
Marg had her customary salad, Hector’s turn for Carbonara. Both were mountainous. If I cannot manage Aussie portions, how shall I fair in good old USA?
The Botanic Gardens was next on Marg’s plan, how to get there. Milsons Point train station was conveniently across the street. There was a tunnel under the railway which Marg strangely wanted to walk though. I have to keep her right. Tap on, a train was on the platform, one stop back to Wynyard.
This train was going nowhere. Stuck at a red light the driver announced delay after delay. Eventually he advised that if we had other means of getting to our destination we should do so. A bus over the bridge would involve a fair walk inland. Ferry!
We walked down through Brafield Park to Milsons Ferry Wharf. As soon as we reached the underside of Bridge, so we heard our train make the crossing. So it goes.
Hector on another boat, yee-hah!
Ferry 4 (of 9), took us to Circular Quay which was nearer our chosen destination than the train would have taken us. A calm crossing, and I foresee no more boats on this sojourn.
In her morning runs, Marg had been to the Opera House and established that it is in fact more than one building. This was Hector’s first time in close proximity.
The Botanic Gardens provided a pleasant stroll.
Flower arches were spread around the park, weddings. Were these for today, or abandoned from yesterday? The Calyx appeared to be the focal point of the park, a floral display.
Closed for a private function. Ah well, next time in Sydney.
How to get to Marrickville? Bus 428 would take us, but from Elizabeth Street. This involved a twelve minute walk around the houses even though it was directly through the mass of buildings beside us. Liquid was taken on board once more, the cafe was closing at 15.00, chairs were being put away. Hector and Marg on a park bench, no brown paper bag.
Instead, Bus 430 took us down through streets we now recognised. Grace Brothers! Unfortunately no decent photo could be taken. Thereafter, the architecture changed dramatically. The shiny glass gave way to two story terraces. Newtown, this looked seedy, old Sydney, contrary to its moniker. Maybe this is where the real Sydney people reside. There was a 1950s black and white movie feel about the whole stretch.
We were heading to Marrickville, well the industrial part, where there is a cluster of breweries a la Manly. With Kicks Brewing only open Saturday & Sunday, and closing at 18.00, this was the starting point.
A small unit, remarkably similar to Slow Lane Brewing yesterday. The choice was equally limited.
Double Nelson West Coast DIPA at 8.0% could have been a decent – goodnight Bier – but it was way too early. There was one Bier – in the style – and at a sensible abv.
The only NEIPA available was Peals of Laughter at 6.0%, session strength then. The hops could not be identified, but this super-hazy offering was almost a delight. Chewy, smooth, juicy, it had all the hallmarks of a worthy NEIPA, but then there was the niggly background taste which prevented it getting a spot on the podium. The story of too many a Bier. Can the brewers not taste it? Are they stuck with putting it out? Are their plates not in tune? I must ask Brian (Bräugier, Berlin).
This was a three brewery event, then back for Curry at Lal Qila. The best laid plans…
Sauce Brewing Co was the next intended venue, but to get there, they’re on the same street, we had to pass Mixtape. Marg stopped off for a coffee but they wouldn’t serve her one. Despite being open, they were closed.
Mixtape Brewing & Bar was stowed. Everybody was here, by then Marg had caught up. We are the people. The only Hazy was not brewed here, so why stop? We would never have got a spot anyway.
Sauce Brewing Co was in an industrial area along the street. This was the happening place. The large entry area gave way to a cavernous brewhouse. Through the back was plenty of seating for those who can have Bier in the sunshine.
The comedy Bier choices shall not be forgotten. How these Flavours work in an IPA I never want to find out. On a one Bier per brewery model, the choice had to be right.
The 6.5% NEIPA – IPA New England – looked – the business. That’s as full a milkshake haze as one encounters. Juicy, smooth, easy drinking, there was nothing wrong here except the hops were not pulling their weight: Citra, Mosaic, Sultana, Galaxy. What on earth is Sultana.
*
The senior barman looked up the hops for me. There was an air of respect here, I wish I could have stayed longer, I wish there had been a Bier to make me want to. A fun place.
It was a good twenty minute walk to Future Brewing. In doing so we had left Marrickville and neared St Peters. Negotiating the flyover proved to be a bit tricky, once managed, we were on Future Brewing.
DDH All Juice at 8.2% had a worthy array of hops, however, Nothing But Nelson at the same abv won the day.
Wow! A DDH Hazy DIPA , this was the Bier the Hector has been looking for. Perfection in a glass. Tropical, juicy, smooth, mellow, mouthfeel – whatever that is – the hoppy blast. No nasty aftertaste. I hadn’t reached the halfway mark when I advised Marg I was not leaving – The McVittie Arms.
I related my pleasure to the girls behind the bar, appreciated. Quite busy when we arrived, the place was becoming quieter. Hector was having a good time, Marg could tell this was a special moment.
It was only on entering this Bier in the database when I realised that I already had an awareness of Future Brewing. Back in January at Track (Manchester, England), a collaborative brew: Elyssia at 7.0%, a DDH IPA, caused a stir. We couldn’t drink enough of Elyssia.
A pity the t-shirts were naff. But usually they are. Why have breweries not caught up with the Germans, embroidery, not transfers please. Hector was in a good place after two eight per-centers.
So much so, that when we stumbled upon Brickworks, the Hector was not for passing by. In we went to the near empty premises. The barman was in conversation with the only customers. Were we an intrusion?
Hazy IPA at 7.2% was the only Bier on the board that could possibly follow Future Brewing. Needless to say it didn’t. This makes me wonder, should I have had a third Hazy DIPA?
The muddy haze was not attractive, the Bier was thin for its abv. Even with Citra and Amarillo hops, this Bier was not giving much.
Out into the darkness, it was only metres to St Peters train station. Now I know how to get to Future Brewing the easy way.
No more Bier, anything else would have been a disappointment. Too late for Curry, we went back down to Darling Harbour.
There was an elaborate fireworks display to the south. Not for us, surely? Is this how Aussies bid farewell?
We still needed food, Georges Mediterranean Bar & Grill, a Greek restaurant for a change.
Let’s have a bottle of Posé wine!
And so we did.
Anchovies, taramasalata too, can’t wait for September. Check out the Chillies.
*
The last full day in Australia, a not too early rise tomorrow. We packed a lot in today. A twelve day whirlwind, maybe we’re getting the hang of it, and hopefully holiday restrictions are in the past.
Breweries and restaurants visited today:
Future Brewing – 82 May St, St Peters, Sydney NSW 2044
Brickworks Brewing – 15 May St, St Peters, Sydney NSW 2044
Kicks Brewing – 31 Shepherd St, Marrickville, Sydney 2204
Mixtape Brewing & Bar – 142A Victoria Rd, Marrickville, Sydney NSW 2204
Sauce Brewing Co – 142A Victoria Rd, Marrickville , Sydney NSW 2204
Kirribilli Woodfire Kitchen – Shop 2/27 Broughton St., Milsons Point Sydney NSW 2061
Georges Mediterranean Bar & Grill – King Street Wharf, 3 The Promenade, Sydney NSW 2000
Back to – Sydney Homepage
Back to : Brisbane – Days 6 – 11
Continue to : Auckland Days 18 – 22
Qantas flight 52, an Airbus 300, not as comfortable as the Airbus 800 which brought us to 
The coming Friday and Sunday could be a washout in another use of the term. Something to do with paying staff overtime – was the explanation. We shall see, we can’t go hungry. A day or two of – Temperance – may be in keeping with the motto printed on Hector’s polo shirts.
After a few hours sleep we emerged into the downpour. Downtown 
Marg had a highly rated coffee shop looked out. Sugar ‘N Spice Cafe had worthy coffee, but was way too small to relax in. 
The array of clocks on the wall felt fitting. We moved on. Next choice of venue had no wi-fi, move on. 
Brew Cafe & Wine Bar was just what we needed. Located in a lane just off Queen St., another miracle piece of navigation. 
Sleep remains sporadic in the same way that the continuing downpour does not. Once again there was an interrupted sleep meaning three more small hours were devoted to these writings. Marg went out for her morning constitutional run/jog and returned slightly late for her train to her planned activity this afternoon.
This brewery was brought to my attention in Manchester earlier this year when visiting Track Brewery. The chap who served me at 
Sat at the corner table facing the bar, 
Ginger Beer, I brewed this in my youth, the only brew of mine I considered to be drinkable.
The Hector was last out.
Surely there was somewhere open later and near the hotel? Frog’s Hollow Saloon was on the street parallel to ours, and seemingly for 
A CAN of Boozy Fruit (Big Shed Brewing, Royal Park, South Australia) a NEIPA at 6.2% was better than anything on draft. With lactose declared, this full on milkshake took a moment to adjust to. Galaxy, Wai-Iti, Ekuanot and Mosaic hops featured, quite an array. 
The sleep pattern continues, awake in the middle of the night, a couple of hours of blogging, then back to bed for a deeper sleep. Meanwhile, Marg is out for her exercise ritual, and returns with news of something different: the rain has stopped, sandals and shorts restored.
And so we headed towards the southeastern tip of the peninsula and Brisbane City Botanic Gardens. 
Lunch was calling, the first venues were dismissed, too posh for this time of day. Marg already had an encounter at an outdoor cafe at the Queensland Performing Arts Centre where a woman gave her the dirtiest of looks for daring to choose a particular table. 
Too early for Bier, but when might the opperchancity present itself again? I studied the taps, nothing of interest. A mature chap was cleaning a line, all the wee girlie staff were surrounding him with glee. I felt in the way being a potential customer. Marg fetched the Wi-Fi code, a chit was provided. Hector studied the food menu, the usual Aussie/American fayre which turns the stomach at the very thought of it. 
Trivia – was underway. A question on Scottish Whiskey nearly had the Hector giving some advice to the Quiz-master. 
Today we were due to meet up with Ryno, Beverly and family at 
ANZAC Square certainly impressed. 
The 1865 built – Servants Home – now – School of Arts – was the oldest building found on our wanderings.
Bus 199 took us the couple of stops to the top of the bank leading down to the food, drink, entertainment complex on the riverside adjacent to Howard Smith Wharves. Next to the Pirate Ship – was the clue given to locate les autres, who were well punctual. I have never walked into a brewery and had to ask – where is the Pirate Ship? When not there, chasing the odd Ibis around the grassy areas proved to entertain some weans also.
So as not to confuse payment later, I used the QR code to order for Marg and myself. The P-Hs had the service of a chap who was determined to enforce the letter of the law. He was nothing but a nuisance. Even having ordered burgers for the girls, he was persistent. There was food on the table, let it go. Pizza was ordered before his shift ended at 16.00, the girl who replaced him was way more relaxed. Anyway, by retaining the last slice of pizza, who knows who had eaten in the last hour, or hadn’t? An absurd regulation, and only invoked in Queensland.
Drinks were finished, back t’Bus Stop.
This was the day Marg was most looking forward to in, 
Then there were the Kangaroos. Smaller than I expected, and tame. Feeding the ‘roos was the order of the day. And getting photos of and with. Fun, even for this old cynic.
Is it possible to see the much maligned Dingo and not think of Merly Streep?
There were two shows to take in before the important 11.30 event. A sheepdog doing its job was nothing not seen before. Birds of Prey turned out to be two owls plus something else. Owls, not that interesting and try photographing birds on the wing without an SLR.
Reptiles and a frog, not the ones introduced by Bart Simpson, were captured, then finally, Marg’s was on.
Marg suggested coffee thereafter. Belleza was located in the basement of yet another 
We walked down the CBD peninsula and crossed the Goodwill Bridge once more. This time, the Hector stopped to add it to Google Maps. Surely, the powers that be should be on the case of three missing bridges.
Market stalls had been set up along the main thoroughfare. With numerous cafes and bars long the South Bank, this proved to be a hive of activity. This is where the people were.
Sunset Haze (Revel Brewing Co., Australia) at 6.5% , a Hazy IPA/ NEIPA was poured, carefully. Only by using the acquired skill was the full haze attained. Tropical, juicy, there was no distinctive hop blast. Strata, El Dorado and Ella were the hops which had not been added in sufficient quantity.
Even Marg thought we overdid the creation we ordered. Ice Cream, fruit, crunchy stuff and a side of melted chocolate… mmm.… as The Good Doctor might say. 
We left the South Bank and its illuminations and headed to Fish Lane and Saccharomyces, closed. 
Bling (Bridge Rd. Brewers, Australia), a 5.0% IPA had the West Coast bitterness. Gold, with a slight haze, the palate adjusted to the powerful hoppy flavours: Vic Secret, Enigma, Galaxy, Citra, Simcoe. Quite a collection, and Marg left me to have another. 
All this time time in 
Let me introduce the reader to the plastic cutlery set provided by Beverley. No more wood, and somewhere to house my metal, telescopic straw.
Holland Street was outside Northgate Station, home from home. Melton Road is adjacent to Chez Ryno, oh to have a microbrewery that close to home. Marg and Hector were the first customers of the day as we entered 
Seltzer, I have seen it on many a menu, but what is it? Marg was brave and took the plunge. 
Marg plus one headed for the house with the – Tinnies – which Ryno had just purchased plus the 
Fick 
Fusion Celebration DIPA
Barbie, Marg had watched the movie on the flight here. She was not impressed, I shall await the sequel about Barbie’s uncle Klaus. Ryno, he told me, is a celebrated BBQ Chef. The Spicy sausages impressed, but not as much as the – Lamb Cutlets. I have never had Lamb at a BBQ before today. Chops, with the thin section of Meat removed, stunning. 
With the sun down and no sign of the weans settling, it was time to head back to the city. Still Easter Sunday, still the Embassy Hotel was closed. Definitely gone. We had located Death and Taxes on Friday, tonight it was open. A classy joint, the gantry was reminiscent of The Pot Still (Glasgow) but with an array beyond Scotch. 
All the bar stools were taken, a strange sight. Marg reckoned it was so that customers could watch the cocktail mixing show. 
The range of tap Bier was naff. The chap at 
The intention was to circumnavigate the planet back in 2021 in the aftermath of Marg’s retirement. Today marks four years since Boris declared all schools should close, it is also the Equinox.
The 15.30 BA flight from Glasgow arrived at Heathrow on time having treated us to views of central London on the approach. The transfer to Terminal 3 by bus was much easier than the shuttle alternative. Terminal 3 has improved greatly since 2016 when last here. Then the facilities, even the seating areas were overrun, a well known coffee chain offered refuge until the 19.50 Qantas flight to 
From the pool, the Sim Lim Square shopping mall was visible a block away. Two SIM cards were soon installed courtesy of Vision 11. 
Outside the Sim Lim mall is a parade of eateries each selling their take on Asian, non-Indian food. First we needed cash, just in case, S$100 (£60.00) was withdrawn, we can spend it on the last day if we still have it. How could the Hector resist – Wing Seong Fatty’s Restaurant? Marg ordered Sweet & Sour Pork, standard, the Hector Duck with noodles, medium. Oh, and a big bottle of Tiger Lager.
Nordic India Pale Ale (Nordic Vibes, Kiruna, Sverige) at 4.5% claimed to be – Hoppy Citrus – and a NEIPA. It was neither. Mosaic hops featured but as this was clearly a West Coast IPA in both colour and bitter taste, I would love to establish the IBU to prove my point.
Air-con, it’s noisy, but necessary. Awake at 05.00, it was time to seize the day. In reality it was still three hours before UK bedtime. An opperchancity to get writing. Bier-Traveller is never as up to date as Curry-Heute, or anywhere near as comprehensive. With many hours to be spent on ‘planes, I may actually post in batches, time will tell. If I post daily it all goes backwards anyway.
Crossing over Bukit Timah Road took us to 
Having checked out the other side of the main road it was time for Curry. 
After a bizarre eating experience we walked back to Rochor MRT station. The blue – Downtown – line took us, well – Downtown. What a line, it runs from Expo, the airport to the centre of the city and loops back on itself. Each station on each MRT line has a name and a number, this facilitates counting the stops and must help those who have limited ability in reading of our script.
No eating, drinking, smoking, don’t set yourself alight, and no – durian! 
We soon found ourselves at the waterfront. Walking around the bay/marina seemed logical. Gardens by the Bay – was the only 
Marina Bay Sands Hotel dominates the 
Photo opperchancities were aplenty, so little jostling for the best positions, everyone was more polite than everyone else. Twenty four hours in 
Chewing gum – I did see the telltale black stains on one flight of steps in the garden area. Otherwise, every pavement, floor, is spotless.
Emerging into the heat was testing. There was a pit stop, cold drinks required. Having walked miles, the body was protesting. The base of the back, the legs, the feet in sandals for the first time in a month. Here is where the heat definitely helps, having resumed the walk the body thawed out. 
We passed the Tiger Taproom en route up the hill. Smoke-room – had me worried. I popped my head in, no ashtrays, smoking has long gone in 
Bubbleicious Burst (Ren Min, Singapore) at 6.4% was the real deal. With the full haze and a big hop hit, a joyful experience. HBC 586 and Superdilic hops were possibly not encountered previously, a definite – wow!
Heart of Darkness is an outlet for Bier of the eponymous Vietnamese brewery. A 
Wide awake at 05.00, I switched on the netbook. In the blink of an eye, Scotland lost another goal to Nederland. 4 v 0 ! Three subs, three goals lost in quick succession. John Souttar did not cover himself in glory. Meanwhile, Yilmaz limped off in the first half playing for 
Today’s Curry was at 
Google Maps does not work in 3D. I took from the blue dot that Kebabchi was inside, but how high up? We searched two floors up, inside and out. It would have been easier finding Anne Franke. At a Japanese restaurant cluster a young chap said – go to the basement! 
The approach to Helix Bridge was complicated by ongoing construction for the – Youth Olympics. Photos secured, there was little point actually crossing the bridge, Merlion was on our side. Blue sky today, time for the hat. As we took in the same views as yesterday, but with better conditions, so a young chap offered to take our photos. Marg handed over her phone and my camera.
You’ll run away – she said, in jest. 
The Merlion was mobbed with ever so polite people waiting in turn to have their photos taken at – the spot. Marg’s position meant she was cooled by the spray, the Hector was cooking. Bunkers, a pit stop, S$5.00 Colas. 
The brew-plant was there, the World’s highest urban microbrewery. Where was the telltale smell of yeast? Everything was pristine, if they do brew here it must be when nobody is around.
The tropical phenomenon of instant darkness meant we saw the night skyline without having to wait for twilight to dissipate. That was a view!
American Taproom is situated in a lane off Waterloo Street. Julia led Mihajlo to another branch. This multi-tap bar did not only feature Bier from the USA, it also had Verdant (Falmouth England) and Cloudwater (Manchester, England) were also available. 
Eight hours ahead, we were calling it a night as peeps back home were going out to play. The walk back to Ibis Styles Albert took no time at all. Marg claims to know these streets from her morning runs and has photos to prove it. 
You think a night is over and then it’s not. There were lights still on in Albert Street, people were sitting outside a venue having Bier. 
The last full day in 
Marg and Hector emerged from the Chinatown MRT stop on the Downtown line, other Singapore MRT lines are available, just after 14.00. 
As with 
The Bombay-Mexican food outlet stood out from the mass of eateries. Why come here for either? I have seen so ,any photos of Chinese/Thai/Japanese/Malay cuisine that I believe I have seen every Dish possible. Trotters are on many a menu, but – pig. Our Pakistani restaurants back home don’t have this. Paya!
It was time to rendezvous at Xiang Xiang Hunan Cuisine @Chinatown. The blue dot took us to the correct locus, but which shop exactly was it? With unforgiving signage what’s what? I had to ask in one restaurant where possibly their more famous competition was. We were directed across the street.
Table 26, not the window table the waitress directed us to. QR code ordering, what is this, Covid is no more. For reasons unknown, my Oppo wouldn’t pick up the QR code, Marg’s identical machine did. Two sweaty blobs ordered two colas, duly delivered. We had a menu, lots of delightful photos with English written also, yay. Marg was heading for her customary Pork: Bamboo shoot with stir-fried pork, but was then caught by the big photo of Xiang Xiang’s signature Dish: Hunan style stir-fried pork. Still Pork then. For Hector, it would normally be Duck, but the word – cumin – took me to the Beef dish. 
The table was soon laden with food. This sharing lark, no way with Curry, here it made sense. The lack of complexity in each dish makes one want variety. The Cumin Beef had lots of sliced Chillies and no Onion or Capsicum, Marg’s Pork had some Onion and loads of Capsicum. 
The Rice seemed stingy but this is as much a bib as an accompaniment. Sticky Rice, far from the cultured Basmati the Hector is used to. Imagine trying to pick up individual grains of Basmati with chop sticks. My fellow diners used the traditional weapons, I used what I have come to know as the ceramic soup spoon. It took us a while to wade through this lot, Mihajlo ordered more Tofu, he likes Tofu. Another chit in the drawer. 
It came time to pay, which chit was which? Out came the trusty Oppo, Google Translate recognised – Simple Chinese – and is if by magic, all was revealed. I took our chit to the counter, but we still owed for the first colas. 
Calum, a colleague of Julia’s joined us. His origins are Scottish. 
SG Taps, another multi-tap 
Time to leave 
A Monday lunchtime, surprisingly most of the cafes on Bencoolen Street, opposite Sim Lim Square were closed. This left the Hawker Market in the basement of Sim Lim as the obvious nearby place to eat. 
We had cash to get rid of, having only spent cents of the S$100.00 taken out on Day 1. Some units were selling substantial Dishes up to S$20.00, we knew what a feast these could be. Wok Of Wonders had prices suggesting more modest portions. Marg had Sweet & Sour Pork, for a change, the Hector – Chai Poh Fried Fish Rice. The whole fried egg was a feature of both Dishes and the sliced Red Chillies a feature of of mine. Marg had the big onions.
Our extra punctual taxi took us to Changi Airport at 14.15 for our evening flight to Brisbane. The driver insisted we visit – 
Putty, an 8.0% DIPA with the full on milkshake haze features Galaxy, Mosaic and Azacca hops. Imagine Mango Lassi with a kick. Today, selected pubs across the UK simultaneously served the keg. One keg per venue. The list of venues essentially defines the best Craft Beer bars in the UK.
Are you sure it will be on? – asked Marg.
For reasons unknown, our pre-booked train tickets from 
PsicoNauti – I had to buy their CD. Those who know CAN’s – Dizzy Dizzy (Soon Over Babaluma) will recognise the vibe. 
And so to Caffè Terzi, where we managed to get a table through the back. This was my first encounter of an Americano served as an Espresso with hot water, as well as hot milk, on the side. We like our coffee hotter than hot. 
The next half hour or so was spent at Le due Torri: Garisende e degli Asinelli. There was no desire to climb Garisende, but having just left Pisa, it was weird to discover that Asinelli is tilted by 0.1º more than Pisa’s more famous tower. 
There are two distinct lines of Craft Beer houses in 
Birreria Popolare 
Astral Beers Pub
Mornings, what’s the point? Marg tends to disappear to get her steps up, the Hector usually gets around to some blogging. With 
We strolled through Parco della Montagnola on our return from the wrong side of the tracks. Not much to see there.
Somehow we missed 
Il Punto
Eight taps, one more than seven, the choice boiled down to a 5.6% or 8.0% IPA. Still relatively early, the lesser was chosen. Sound (Birrificio Wyatt, Italia / Fan, San Marino) was cold, yellow and fizzy. With hardly any flavour at all, it should have attacked the palate after Hallertau Hops, it didn’t. More West Coast dryness, at least these encounters have yet to be sweet. A pity the IBU has not been forthcoming.
Trattoria Baraldi lies next door to 
Only then did I discover the Bier was 3.0%. I enjoyed every drop, but as this had become a very slow Bier day, it was time to move on up.
Marg sold me the need to enter 
No Curry for lunch today instead we dined at 051 Cibo e Passione in the heart of the market area. 
The pasta was different, tortellini stuffed with meat, and served in a cheese sauce that quickly became monotonous. Marg did better with lasagna. 
There was nobody behind the bar when we entered soon after opening time. Having inspected the array of – safe Bier – the kiosk in the corner of the room caught the eye. Different. As one would order a burger, so we purchased the gentle 5.0% Franziskaner Weizen (Spaten-Löwenbräu, Munchen), and a cocktail.
Meanwhile Marg had been given a bottle of water. Bier or water, that was it. Sadly, this curtailed the visit, else the feet would have been firmly planted under the table. Mein Host and a customer engaged. The customer worked across the street at a public facility. Here too was a hole in the wall serving gas for Frizzante. Is this why sparkling water is so cheap? 
Mein Host likes Pils, the Hector tends to avoid it, especially Deutsche Pils. Clearly a Bier enthusiast, I suggested he visit Manchester at the first opperchancity. He needs to be exposed to Craft Beer for the twenty first century. This was the best bar in 
We were recognised having been last night. The chap and his lady assistant looked after us. Second division Bier in many ways, but a proper bar and confirmed Via Pratello as the better of the two drinking areas. 
The annual trip to 
The Metro took us to Monastiraki, our accommodation for the first two days was opposite Little Cook, a much decorated cafe at the southern edge of Psiri and a major attraction for children of all ages. Hector will admit to having enjoyed the ice-cream here. 
Attic room – was how our accommodation was described, more like – rooftop. Bijou – would be another suitable description. For two nights, fine.
Bier o’clock, the staff thought otherwise. Anywhere else, we would have walked. Take in the view, take some photos. Eventually service, of sorts. The Bier list was poor, over-priced small bottles. That my first Bier of this trip was Budvar (Czechia) felt strange. Marg had Sparkling Water, she wanted a snack, not possible. The issued menu was due to change in ten minutes, if Marg wanted food, she would have to go downstairs to the restaurant. I texted both Clive and Maggie, relocation.
Beer Time
Clive and Maggie have moved house since I last saw then in 
Shots were provided as we departed, we are known here.
Grill Houses, don’t start me. Have the Greeks lost the ability to cook? I ended up with a substantial Meze Grill, OK, it was for two and Marg was willing to share. Great value for what we had and impossible to finish as a Meze should be. 
Suitably replete, we walked eastwards, across Athenas and into the back streets to find to 
We hadn’t seen Agis, Mein co-Host, for some time, hugs all round. At least tonight the music would be better. Led Zeppelin trumps Northern Soul, always IMHO. Agis also appreciates Prog Rock and acknowledged that Marg and I are due to see 
The board of ten taps had three – in the style – plus
Miltos was as exuberant as ever. It’s fair to say that he greets everyone with enthusiasm, and is not afraid of going OTT with those he knows. The board did not match the quality at 
Having justified the visit, it was time to take the long walk home, three minutes at most, including the stairs. It was a long day’s night. 
Marg likes to rise early and go for a run/walk depending on circumstances. This may involve a stop-off for breakfast. In Psiri, around Iroon Square, there are plenty of morning venues to choose from, I am told. Importantly, when the rain stopped around 06.00, the street s started to dry up. With rain still forecast for the coming days, there would be no going out with out a brolly.
Having drifted off the northern edge of Psiri, we were nearer Omonia. A day ticket was purchased, two stops to Larissa Station where we bought return tickets to Chalkida/Chalcis on Eoboea/Evia. Everywhere in 
Bus 36 was scheduled to take us almost to the door. It was like being back in Glasgow, multiples of every other route appeared, not the 36. A half hour wait, by which time Clive and Maggie had reached Padre and ascertained a lack of Bier choice. The delivery had not come. Sensibly, they had a Bier whilst they waited, at a table outside, as we would discover. Our small bus emptied en route. By the time we reached our stop, we were down to three passengers. A strange little bus is the 36.
Bus 35 would take us back to Psiri, it passed regularly whilst we sat outside Padre. Then it stopped, Google showed a re-route. The ladies returned from their coffee break and reported riot police up the street. Marg and Hector have previously been caught up in an 
At 
22.00 is not that late for dining in 
Fermi Paradox was on here too, however, it was straight back to Take Your Time “Persephone” (Main Squeeze Brewing, Athena, Hellas). As it happened, the Brewer was sitting beside me, another introduction. The Hector knows nobody in 
The first pit-stop today was at Letraria da Anunciada, a pleasant place to stop and acclimatise in the shade to the extra few degrees Centigrade that 
There was no water in the fountains at Praça dos Restauradores, still, there was the ritual photographs to be taken, similarly at the waterfront – Cais das Colunas. En route we passed the most famous lift in Lisboa – Elevador de Santa Justa, the queues were as long as ever. However, Hector draws the reader’s attention to the most useful means of gaining height on the west side of 
More bunkers were required, a brief stop off at a pavement cafe presented a unique photo opperchancity – Yo, Ladies! – that’s a Bier glass!
So good was the Nelson Sauvin, I decided that Verge (Funky Fluid, Polska), an 8.0% – NEDIPA – could wait for another day. 
Nelson Sauvin has become a favourite hop, this full on Hazy IPA totally hit the spot. There was more! With two staff, the service was a bit hit and miss. The chap appeared easily distracted. Still, I knew we would be back here over the course of the coming week, I have yet to find the Bier choices here to be a let-down. Another bonus, the sound system was not manned this evening, last year we had to tolerate electro nonsense. 
Afterwards, 
This left
Friday Prayers, not that the Hector is ever likely to attend, however, the number of times this coincides with Curry is uncanny. We arranged to meet Clive and Maggie at Martim Moniz Metro station, metres from Curry Heaven in 
At the foot of the hill, which we walked up too often in 2020 before discovering the escalators, lies 
Some time after 2020, 
Having turned right last night on reaching Rua dos Bacalhoeiros and finding all restaurants full, tonight Hector applied some Stats & Geography (after Hotelling) the normal distribution and turned left. An inside table was secured at Adega do Atum, a proper Portuguese restaurant. Hector had that well known Portuguese delicacy – Seafood Paella, and to prove consistency, Marg had a Tuna Salad.
Now for the main event. Tonight no messing, Hector would have the Verge (Funky Fluid, Polska) DIPA at 8.0%, but only after a sensible Nelson Sauvin (Funkly Fluid, Polska).
The eve of – The Birthday – today’s plan: to stay until after midnight. Before then, some unfinished business. Having what felt like – Tapas – yesterday at 
Normally the modern tram would take us from Cais das Colunas to Belém, however, the line in the city centre has been ripped up. Cais do Sodre is therefore the present terminus. We headed west, under – 
As with 
A – Gastropub – in other words it served Burgers. I have reached the stage where Burgers and/or Pizza is the food of the last resort. Is this what the masses are destined to eat forever? Throw in some Spicy Chicken Wings and the Hector may be tempted. Maybe the conservative food was a reflection of the Bier choice also. With ten taps representing a range of Bier for different nations, plus a fridge with T.E.A. – Traditional English Ale, in theory, something for everyone. This – one – as ever was hoping for NEIPA but had to settle for West Coast. I was surprised when this turned into a two Bier stop. 
Bah! Cascais (Bah Craft Beer, Portugal) is a 6.0% APA. At 50 IBU, it was gold, clear, dry, and not exciting in any way. Importantly no nasties were tasted. 
The birthday card from Marg was appropriate as always. However, for once, there was to be no Curry-Heute. My intended venue is closed on Sundays. Hector’s 67th birthday in 
We left, gained altitude with the nearby Baixo-Chiado escalators, and tracked down Cervejaria Do Bairro which was empty. The match was arranged, meanwhile Rangers’ inept defending once again saw a goal lost on the 42nd minute mark. Game over. Happy Birthday, not.
Today, a blue sky and no haze. Marg gave me into trouble for barking at a couple with a wean who appeared to be taking root at the obvious spot from which to take photos.
Despite the throng, we managed a tram back down to the centrum. On the south side of Praça Figueira lies Marg’s favourite coffee and cake shop – Confeitaria Nacional. There was cake for the Hector. Fitting. 
Maggie needed shoes, just like that. Actually, she had been slipping with her inadequate footwear for days. Bad planning. This interrupted the next trek up flights of steps and another slope, of course, to – The Queen Ale – Craft Beer Bar. What a royal day it could have been. 
Two chaps were behind the bar, no other customers, it was but late afternoon. Friends of staff did join them at adjacent tables once we were settled. This was a two Bier stop. 
First up, a Spanish NEIPA appropriately named Smooth (Peninsula, Espana) at 7.2%. With a decent milkshake haze, this lived up to its name. The hops were quite pronounced: Verdant, Elaborado con Bru-1, El Dorado and Talus. The latter was not an issue. 
The Queen Ale looks like a place to keep an eye on. If today was typical, then they have Bier – in-the-style. There was an interesting fridge also, but who wants this Scottish brewed Irn Bru in a Bier? Had we stayed longer, then hopefully we would have had more interaction with the staff. There will be a next time. 
We chose Inhaca, a table outside with space such that those who pollute would not be right up against us. Our first alfresco meal of this trip. It was time for Hector to have Catapla- na. My fellow diners wimped out. A bottle of Mateus Rosé had to be also, this time Marg shared more. 
The mains were being presented, the Birthday Boy’s came last.
Is that it? 
Iparactivo (
Back on the Metro, two stops home. The hill up to our apartment suddenly felt like but a mound. 
At the halfway point, Hector secured a decent photo of Ponte 25 de Abril. On arrival, the submarine was the big attraction. 
We were about to negotiate a discounted pensioner entry when I spotted another sign, ah well. Next time.
On 
At our pit-stops, the Hector was busy planning a trip to Óbidos, preferably for tomorrow. Somewhat surprisingly, a tour company did come straight back to me confirming availability. However, the more research that was done, it became obvious – take the service bus.
Weekend (
Rua do Benformoso
Marg wanted coffee, the surly chap would only supply espresso, declined. 
With the knowledge that better Bier was available down the hill, it was back on Tram 28, in the same direction of travel, alighting just above
It was – Dan the Man – our guide on the Canyonlands school trip of 2010, who first made Hector aware of the mediaeval town – Óbidos. But how to get there? Four people on an organised tour was throwing away money. Train was a possibility, too slow and infrequent. The – Rapida Verde – coach service from the main bus station could be the way.
This unfortunately included Maggie who soon headed off with Clive in search of shade. They took refuge at Petrarum Domus Bar where cold, yellow, fizzy lager was served. Quite a place, we had it to ourselves. If one was here of an evening, this could well be the place – to dine.
With twelve taps and a choice of NEIPA, so far so good. Suprassumo (5.0%) was not on. The staff weren’t bothered. There was no word of it returning, complete indifference. We were left with the other 5.0% NEIPA – Triton whose efficacy I have to challenge. With only the slightest haze, this was far too sharp tasting, the wrong mouthfeel. Nelson Sauvin hops were allegedly featured, so where was the hop hit?
I let Clive and Maggie choose our next and final venue for the evening. Surprisingly, 
Finally, there was a sense of recognition, we were not just tourists passing through. Patrick, Mein Host, engaged, we discussed the original venue and the move west. The good news, NEIPAs do make an appearance here. Given the proximity to 
The final day of this trip began with some blogging whilst Marg was out for her daily exercises. The hills of 
Sensing that our fellow travellers could be melting, we arranged to meet for ice-cream at 15.00. Being Mr. Garrett’s birthday, where better than Amorino Lisboa Garrett? This involved a walk up the hill behind Baixa-Chiado, logically, it was downhill on the way back. In fact, we managed to avoid any serious hills thereafter. It’s almost as though someone knew what they were doing.
I don’t often get the chance to rave about hot melted Chocolate. I understand that this is how Chocolate was first consumed, by the elite who could afford it, before the fondant and Chocolate bar was invented. Yes, I have been to a Belgian Chocolate Museum, one has to keep Marg amused in the afternoons.
As expected, the tap Bier was not setting the heather on fire, Tasters dismissed. The young lady serving produced a can: Captao Leitao 
Downstairs we went, with the door to the garden open it was a bit chilly. Back upstairs, the only low table was occupied by a chap with a laptop. It turned out he was – The Boss – and was doing the accounts. There was no interaction despite being propped at the window beside him for a good hour or so. A pity. Rather than take the Metro home, it was decided, by others, that we would walk. Fortunately it was all downhill. En route we passed
We alighted at the furthest extremity of the tour and walked back to the next pickup point, along Praia de Matosinhos. Hector put a finger in the Atlantic, enough already. 
So back along the coast road, the Tourist Tram ran parallel, this may be as good as any means of getting our to the west of 
As we approached the city centre, it was matter of finding a new Bier venue. 
The tap Bier at 
Marg and Hector were having Portuguese food tonight. 
Bonaparte
No fireworks tonight, just the short walk downhill to São Bento. Tomorrow:
