Three Post-Lockdown Days in Berlin

Posted on September 8, 2020 by Hector

Tuesday – September 8

The 09.48 ICE took us from München to Berlin in just under five hours, previously I have flown this.  That the train stopped in Bamberg and for once we did not alight, made history. Bamberg and the Bocks are planned for late in the year. Arriving on time at Berlin Hauptbahnhof, an astonishing event that will go down in history occurred. As I stood on the platform waiting for Steve, Clive and Howard to assemble, a chap engaged me in Deutsch. Assuming he was asking for directions, I replied that I was – Ein Auslander – and therefore of no help. He switched to English:

You are Hector Curry-Heute, I read your blog.

Unglaublich! Hector is recognised in Deutschland, giving the Curry Blog a German name has its merits. A pity most of the Curry in Deutschland is not up to the required standard. Anyway, The Hector Fan Club, of one, gave a recommendation.

The swollen head still fitted on to the escalator, an RE took us to Alexanderplatz where we checked into the Ibis Budget, two stops away on the tram.

Where to begin? During Lockdown, I put quite a bit of effort into Bier-Traveller to provide the background detail – the dropdown menus – above. Full coverage of the venues in Berlin visited to date is there for those who want the facts: the tasting notes, advice on transport, and photographic coverage of the venues.

BRLO was visited briefly one evening a year or so back, not the best of experiences, however, it was reportedly open earlier than the majority of Craft Beer venues in Berlin. Normally, Bier o’clock is celebrated at Augustiner Gendarmenmarkt, however, I think we’ve had enough traditional German Bier for one trip.

Gleisdreieck, a remarkable name for an U Bahn station. It was dark last time I came here, spotting the building made from containers was much simpler in daylight, especially when I knew what I was looking for. BRLO was closed, or was it? Signs guided us around the back to a Biergarten, all was well.

With only a handful of customers, the place looked as if it had just opened @15.00. A chap greeted us, in English of course, this being the language of Craft Beer Houses in Berlin. We were invited to register our names using a QR code. He then pointed to the self-service huts where the Bier and the food was being served. Having made our purchases, Mein Host informed us that we were sitting adjacent to the brewers, photo required.

This is the sort of welcome one does not get at Kloster Andechs.

Two Biers were sampled, the C4PO (7.0%) West Coast IPA was preferred by Steve and Clive.  The full on Milkshake that is Blurry Vision (6.5%) was the first new – Guvnor – of the trip, an excellent NEIPA.

Pork Ribs in a tasty sauce, with a powerful tasting Kartoffelsalat rich in Gherkins, was accompanied by three Gherkins, and had by all. Not cheap food by any means, but highly recommended.

With camouflage netting above us, providing some shade until the hops and vines overgrow it, this was an excellent place to spend a Tuesday afternoon. After a tentative first visit in 2018, BRLO is now firmly on the radar, a must visit venue.

U Bahn and tram took us to the Stone Brewing Taproom in Prenzlauer Berg. On arrival, it was clear something was not right. Stone – had been erased, the premises gutted.

People were on hand to tell us of a grand opening on Sunday, too late for us. Stone have pulled out of Europe, the Bier brewed in the US is perceived to be better than that brewed in Europe, presumably since the Marienpark catastrophe. We were told that some of the staff would now be found at Protokoll, another must visit venue.

The walk to Bräugier took ages, in the end, Howard and Hector strode on leaving Steve to navigate for Clive. Brian was behind the bar:

So you made it then.

I had texted Brian earlier, but despite having replied, it never arrived. T&T forms completed, we took the table nearest the bar, the place to be since we could not take up our normal places at the bar itself.

Colin appeared from my rear:

I thought you had been asked not to come back.

Such is the friendly welcome at Bräugier, Colin joined us, and later took us on a tour through the brewing plant.

This was Clive and Howard’s first visit to Bräugier, now they get it, and the Bier, well God-Damn Zilla!, a Double NEIPA at 8.1% must definitely be the new – Guvnor.

That was our end of night session Bier, prior to that I had worked my way up via Totalitarian Book Club, a 6.3% DDH NEIPA, and Im Westen Nuchts Neues a West Coast IPA t 6.5%.

The Bier range may have been limited due to the downturn in business after Covid-19, but still, what choices. Opening days are presently down to four times a week, which means we’ll have to amuse ourselves somewhere else tomorrow night. It also means that Marg and Hector’s Berlin trip the week after next will have to be extended by one night. I’m not coming to Berlin and not having at least one night at Bräugier.

A tram, just after 01.00 took us down the hill towards Alexanderplatz, it’s tomorrow already.

Wednesday  –  September 9

Schöneiche bei Berlin, or Petershagen/Eggersdorf, both lie to the east of Berlin. They were the only – Badshah – Curry Houses which Hector could find. A wild goose chase?

With Clive in tow, it was off to Friedrichshagen to find the connecting tram to Schöneiche. On arrival, one could only marvel that such a leafy residential suburb, featuring traditional German architecture, could have evolved in such a relatively short period. This was the DDR, maybe some were already less equal?

Curry matters attended to it was back to Berlin. Howard was having a quiet start to the day, Steve was again scooting about on one of those contraptions that litter the streets of Europe. The Castle Berlin Mitte was our rendezvous point.

Despite the charms of the Scottish barman, I did not exactly take to The Castle. Last night’s crescendo at Bräugier meant Hector was taking it easy. Anyway, nothing on the Board enticed. After Curry at home, Strongbow is the preferred palate cleanser and aid to digestion. Bottled Strongbow was in the fridge, but not the standard fayre. Maybe this stuff was an attempt at actually being closer to proper Cider? Whatever, it did the job but was not as good as – the real thing.

My fellow imbibers chose from the Board, there was no wild enthusiasm for anything sampled.

None felt the need to prolong the visit, it was time to head back east to Ostkreuz.

Hommelsap at Straßenbräu had Jonathan, Steve and Hector in raptures on Visit #1 back in December. Inevitably, this was not available today. Steve and Hector led the way to the – spot – in the Brewpub where brew-plant meets bar. By sitting here we maintained our social distance from the other customers both inside and out.

Pew Pew ! DDH IPA at 6.2% did not set the heather on fire and so it was time to try something completely different. Beerengarten at 6.0% is a Sour, based on Berries as the name suggests. This titillated the palate, and made the visit worthwhile. We were well looked after by the barmaids.

It was soon time to go off in search of – the Milkshake.

A bus took us a few stops closer to Protokoll. Somehow, we all managed to walk past the multitap bar on the opposite side of the street. Are they trying not to attract attention to themselves?

A high table directly in front of the bar would be home for the rest of the evening. Track & Trace dealt with once more, individual tabs were set up. The Board told us we would not be going anywhere else this evening. Zagovor (Russia) featured prominently, US brewed Stone to a lesser extent. At least Stone still has some presence in Berlin after the hiatus of recent times.

Hector decided to stay local, first up was Whippersnapper at 8.0% – Fuerst Wiacek (Berlin). This DH DIPA was the sought after full on Milkshake, excellent.

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We tried the various Zagovor options.

Bitter End at 8.3% looked as if it would be the night’s biggest challenge, a DDH DNEIPA it proved not to be the winner, this was definitely Against Milk, a NE Milkshake IPA at 6.5%.

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We had found our Bier for today. We had also found the best alternative to concluding a night at Bräugier who were not open today. The staff engaged as and when they were free of other customers. Protokoll was indeed proving itself to be a worthy venue.

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The final challenge of the night was an outrageous Imperial Milk Stout. Algorithm Coconut at 13.9% had the big Coconut hit on top of Chocolate. The palate needed a rest from the – hop overdose – this was just the Bier.

*

All were hungry, somehow we spotted a Punjabi Curry House and despite sticking our heads in the door, we walked on. Frankfurter Tor looked impressive by night, back in the days of the Berlin Biermeile we had always left by dusk. The U Bahn took us the few stops back to Alexanderplatz where Hector had – promised – all that that there was a late night Kebap shop adjacent to our tram stop to the Ibis Budget.

We sat in, some ordered way too much food. Even Hector the Sensible was defeated.

The second Kebap of the trip, with one more night, probably the last.

Posted in Berlin | Comments Off on Three Post-Lockdown Days in Berlin

Three Post-Lockdown Nights in München

Posted on September 5, 2020 by Hector

Saturday – September 5th

Hector, Howard & Steve fly to München for three nights followed by three more in Berlin. Lord Clive of Crawley joins us tomorrow. It’s September, and it’s the first Chaps’ Trip abroad this year. 2020 may well be a year to regret, especially for those who lost friends and family. One more of – The Company – passed a few days ago, however, Alan’s demise was not COVID-19 related. R.I.P Alan Tindall.

We knew not what awaited us in Deutschland. Hector did well to escape from Polska to Berlin at the start of Lockdown. Covid rates are reportedly less here, but will there be queues everywhere, is booking necessary?

With Ryanair vouchers to spend, we flew to Memmingen rather than München directly. Touching down early meant we had grabbed an extra hour of – VDT. The heat hit us, none were expecting this, the forecast suggested cool and showers as at home.

Hotel Amba is the cheapest hotel near München Hauptbahnhof, or what’s left of the main station.

Having checked in it was straight to Indian Mango, the source of a unique interpretation of – Chettinad – and the starting point for all Hector’s trips to this city. Unsure of whether to have the Fisch Chettinad or the Lamm Chettinad, not for the first time, Hector ordered both. Howard and Steve had the Lamm, the Fisch had the edge today, sometimes it’s the other way.

Suitably replete, it was back on the S Bahn to Marienplatz. Karlsplatz-Stachus is closer to the Augustiner Stammhaus, however, there had to be a photo of the Rathaus, just to prove we were really here.

There was quite a throng sitting outside Augustiner, the inside was almost empty. Masks had to be worn, signing in on an App was required. The first Bier of any visit to München is usually on these premises, ah, but, Edelstoff (5.6%) was not on the menu. Why?

Drei mal Edelstoff – was not a problem. The noise the young group were making at the window seats was, we moved inside. The place was then eerily quiet, Saturday evenings in München were never like this.

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Edelstoff, we now accept that it is sweeter than the Vollbier, somehow it still works. The temptation to just sit here for the rest of the night was overcome. I had to ask about the Oktoberfestbier. Although the Oktoberfest is cancelled, surely the Bier would be brewed?  Bert led us to believe that it could be available on Monday.

There was a sort of agenda in Hector’s mind, we had to end up at the new Andechser am Dom, but not too early.

Steve disappeared momentarily, Howard and Hector took a table at the very back of the Hofbräuhaus, no chance of being served here. I spotted a group about to leave, they hadn’t paid, still we had the table and had to wait for Bert to deal with them before bringing – Drei Maß! – and collecting the Track&Trace sheet.

We were now in direct line of sight with the the three piece band. Reality dawned, this is the first live music any of us had seen, well since the last time, and for Hector that was Pendragon at Kinross.

Hofbräu Helles, or Original (5.1%), as it appears on the menu, a shear delight. Ein Prosit!

Now we really know we are in München, except everything is different.

Alternate rows of benches were blocked off, however, there was nothing to stop you sitting beside others already in situ. I could observe no limit to one table. Perhaps given the numbers present, people would have spread themselves even more without the restricted seating? Has somebody been using an – algorithm? Anyway, it was great to be here, a sense of normality. Different, but normal.

There was just about time to squeeze in another before heading off to Andechs.

This was Howard and Steve’s first visit to the relocated Andechser am Dom, Hector was here last summer. Again the place was quiet, so no problem getting a table. Details provided, it was time to study the menu and play the usual game.

Es gibt Spezial Hell vom Faß Heute?

Nein, aber wir habn den Bergbock Hell.

That’ll do nicely!

One cannot beat a bit of Mountain Goat Hell.

We declared a moral victory, for years all they have offered is the standard Helles which is nowhere near as good as the alternatives. That was until Elke, the former manageress served us two years ago.

We were then told that Spezial Hell was available by arrangement. A Barrel at 18.00 tomorrow then? That appeared to work until the new boss, Brigitte, came over and told us that there was none left after days of great demand. You can’t make this up.

Brigitte was charming, even after I asked after Elke. Elke apparently was on the premises today, visiting? We arranged a Barrel of Spezial Hell for later in the year, we just need to get the mouths over to drink it.

Brigitte stood us a round of Schnapps. I don’t think Steve had his, he keeps disappearing.

A Big Bang of a start to this trip, tomorrow will be quieter, how shall it begin?

Sunday  –  September 6th

The disadvantages of staying at Hotel Amba became clear. The noise of the air extractor in the toilet must have woken the whole sixth floor. Doris across the way in the Hauptbahnhof started her frequent announcements at too early o’clock. At least the tram lines directly outside the hotel have been ripped up as part of the ongoing renovations around the train station.

Hector was first in for lunch at Indian Mango, Steve soon followed. Howard arrived as we were finishing, he was set on having a quiet afternoon to himself. Steve decided to hire an electric scooter, he too disappeared over the horizon. This gave Hector time to return to the hotel to sort photos start writing up these pages.

Just after 16.00, Steve suggested we meet up and get the – BBC – Bad Boys’ Club – underway. Augustiner Stammhaus, as ever, was the chosen place to start. With no sign of life outside, the heart sank. They had closed, early I assumed. Steve was ahead of me by a few minutes and had taken up a table around the corner at Augustiner Klosterwirt. The gentler Helles (5.2%) was the Bier to start. We awaited the arrival of Lord Clive who took his time getting in from the Flughafen. Howard joined us before the table had to be given up at 19.00, Edelstoff (5.6%) for all.

An off-duty band were booked to sit on our right.  They had to sit at three tables – The rule of six.

Thereafter, it was back to the Hofbräuhaus where a table was found far left, adjacent to the garden. Due to the seating restrictions, we had to join a couple who were finishing their Schweinhaxe.

Tonight, Hector decided to turn the clock back and have the Dunkles (5.1%) whilst Howard had the Münchener Kindl Weizen (%.1%). A pleasant change for us both, however, these were topped and tailed by the Original (5.1%) Helles which still holds its own.

As the Bierhallle became even quieter, our serving Bert was quite chatty, always good to engage.

We were among the last to leave, more Bier was required. Doug, a member of the Real Ale Twats, had suggested Le Clou next to Viktualienmarkt. A small, noisy bar, this felt like a Covid trap. It was full. There was nothing else for it, go to the Irish Bar.

Killians and Ned Kellys have the same entrance, the latter had no customers. We sat in Killians and ordered Augustiner Helles (5.2%) until we decided it was time to depart. Not my first time here by any means, it is a good fallback when nothing else is open.

We had started late, so the small hours felt appropriate. The S Bahn stopped in the middle of the platform, despite actually being there, we missed the train. We walked to Hauptbahnhof in search of a Kebap. Nae luck, all closed. A sandwich in the station had to do.

Monday  –  September 7

Indian Mango opened today at 11.30, Hector and Clive were there for noon, Howard arrived a few minutes later. Indian Mango open on a Monday, new times. It was Clive’s turn to have the famous Fisch Chettinad, to find out what Hector and Howard had, here’s the link.

With time to spare before employing the – smart route – to Kloster Andechs, we walked back from Isartor to München Hauptbahnhof, or what’s left of it. Only today did I finally see what was once the main entrance.

Steve was waiting at the platform for the train to Tutzing, an hour later we were walking up the slope to the Kloster. There was a Track&Trace system in place unlike any other.

Approaching the Bräustüberl, I was asked for my – Ausweis. The British do not have identity cards. Before I had the opperchancity to establish if a driving licence was acceptable, – Passport – was mentioned. Fortunately, Clive had his, and only one per group was required.

The one way system to the Bier kiosk took us for a tour around the main seating area and the room off. Spezial Hell (5.8%) to start, just the half litre for Howard and Hector, Steve and Clive went for the litre.

We took an outside table, for a while, it was still warm enough. A group of nuns sat a couple of tables away. They had half litres of Helles (Vollbier 4.8%) and bottles for a Takeaway on the table. Only in Deutschland.

Moving indoors to a table we have occupied many times, I was in sight of the Dessert kiosk. Apfelstrudel tempted, alas, sold out.

Hector settled for cheesecake, washed down with a Weissbier Hell (5.5%). Andechs Weissbier, one of only three brands I still enjoy after all these years. With full on banana/vanilla, it made up for not having Vanillasoss with Apfelstrudel.

Whilst Howard had the Doppelbock Dunkel (7.1%), far too early for the rest of us, I received a request from back home – can you get me an Andechs polo shirt? No chance – was the reply. Howard has been trying for some ten years. Why they cannot get their souvenir shop organised here remains another mystery, akin to the lack of Spezial Hell at Andescher am Dom. Who conceived their business plan?

The return to the city via Tutzing is so much easier on the bladder than the S Bahn from Herrsching. Arriving back at Hauptbahnhof, it was suggested we go out to The Crowbar, a Craft Beer pub that has come on to the radar.

The U Bahn took us to Josephsplatz, a few bocks from The Crowbar in a residential part of the city, not quite as far out as Schwabing. A basement bar, we were made most welcome, once we adhered to the strict masks at all times except when seated.

Sadly, due to an event held in recent days, there was no Bier on tap. Still, we were here for the opperchancity of New World Hops, the Board may well have met our requirements.

Instead, it was bottles from Munich Brew Mafia which did the job nicely.

Jungle Trip (Munich Brew Mafia, München) 7.2%

NEIPA

Citra, Hallertau and Madarina Hops.

It had the hops, suitably tasty.

Wreckdiver (Munich Brew Mafia, München) 6.8%

Pacific NEIPA

Nelson Sauvin Hops.

More demanding on the palate, sharp and dry.

Our visit here was enjoyable despite the restrictions. A decent variety of rock music was played at a volume above which conversation could be held. We shall certainly return.

Back in the city centre, Augustiner Stammhaus felt like the obvious place to go. There was no sign of it ever having been open today, strange times. Steve went home, the remainder headed to Augustiner am Dom, the other downtown, brewery owned outlet. Approaching 22.00, it was a case of was the near empty premises still open? A table was secured, and on that table was the sign which made the day, the Oktoberfestbier was on! We had time for one only, at least we can go home and say we had it.

Klosterwirt was still open, it would have been rude not to, but being a franchise, no Oktoberfestbier. Despite the proximity rules, all remaining customers were at the high tables adjacent to the pouring area. Still, social distancing was observed. The Germans appear to know what hey are doing, and people are happy to comply. A text from Dr. Stan has suggested that we should stay away, nice to be nice, but he means we are safer where we are.

We actually replied – Nein danke – when it came to last orders. This time we knew the S Bahn would stop in the middle of the station, fool me once…

There had to be a Kebap, Clive was most determined. Our usual place on Schiller Strasse was closing. We passed what was left of Cafe Schiller, aka – The Sportsbar – en route, another block being redeveloped. We were directed to a Kebap Shop that would be open, it was, success. Give me, give me, give me, a Kebap after midnight.

The Brewery Taps, Bars and Restaurants visited:

Augustiner Stammhaus  –  Neuheuuserstarsse 27, 80331 München

Hofbräuhaus  – Am Platzl, 80331 München

Andechser am Dom  –  Frauenplatz 7, 80331 München

Augustiner Klosterwirt  –  Augustinerstraße 1, 80331 München

Killians Irish Pub / Ned Kelly’s Australian Bar  –  Frauenplatz 11, 80331 München

Kloster Andechs  – Bergstrasse 2, 82346 Andechs

The Crowbar  –  Agnesstraße 54, 80798 München

Augustiner am Dom  – Frauenplatz 8, 80331 München

Indian Mango Restaurant  –  Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München

Posted in München, Kloster Andechs | Comments Off on Three Post-Lockdown Nights in München

Escape from Polska! – Lodz – Poznan – Slubice – Frankfurt (Oder) – Berlin

Posted on March 15, 2020 by Hector

The pre-booked taxi was waiting for me at 00.10, the Bus Station is located on the ground floor of the Fabryczna complex which includes the new main train station, as yet unused…something to do with an incomplete tunnel linking Widzew and Kaliska, the other two train stations. Quite a building with all sorts of looping slip-roads, the driver dropped me off at a grand entrance and directed me downstairs. He did me no favours, eventually I found the bus stance.

Stand 19, about eight of us were were waiting for the 00.45 to Poznan. Monitoring the bus on the FlixBus app, I could see it was on time, in fact it arrived by 00.35, plenty of time to get everyone on board.

Allocated seat 4D, it was occupied, the Bus Doris shifted two chaps, I had  two seats, for how long? We stopped on the outskirts of Lodz and picked up a few more, the bus was remarkably quiet and remained so.

Hector never sleeps on public transport except when two stops from home. Dozing, the best achieved since an overnight bus from London to Glasgow back in 1984. The seats tilted quite a way back, still no luck. I resorted to calming music of my own choice on the Huwaei, Pendrgon’s latest – Love over Fear.

A three hour bus journey before a three hour layover, how long is three hours? How long is six hours? How cold would it be? Below zero was forecast, would there be shelter, warmth, in Poznan?

There are some very straight sections of motorway in Polska, a relatively comfortable journey, arriving in Poznan on time. I recognised the final section of the journey having trodden those streets. Hector is due back here in May, another night at  Piwna Stopa.

The waiting room was open, the board showed the 06.50 bus to Berlin. It was way too early for the app to show the inbound. Some thirty people occupied some thirty seats. I could have forced my way in, not sensible, keep one’s space. A very loud Doris had issues with I don’t know who. The inside door led to the northern end of the Avenida shopping mall which incorporates Poznan Glowny. Nothing was due to open before 05.00, nothing would open, Polska –  #lockdown.

I chose my spot, floorspace opposite a chap who was well on, and nearly out of it. I had plenty of battery backup but decided upon no more music. News alternated with social media and trying to track the incoming bus. Suppose it doesn’t show, a taxi to Frankfurt (Oder)? I have a taxi driver in Poznan, would Jan take me? If desperate I could contact Szymon (Piwna Stopa). The Deutsch Bahn app suggested a tortuous number of afternoon trains from Wroclaw, I would not be leaving Poznan then until nearer 09.00 for a twelve hour journey. This was why I allowed myself two days to get to Berlin.

I fell asleep, for maybe ten minutes around 05.00. Security had woken up the inebriate and moved him on, only we had chosen the floor. They decided to have a word, my reply in English was unexpected, I was left alone. Two ladies had their luggage occupy seats whilst they stood throughout the wait. The loud Doris had gone, an earlier bus. I could have taken a seat, the floorspace was my spot.

At 06.30 our collective had grown to approaching one hundred, not all for Berlin, hopefully. The FlixBus app showed no sign of the incoming, the Berlin bus was no longer on the board. I went out to the stand originally posted, around forty people were waiting. The sun was up, but low in the sky, in our eyes as we looked to the entrance to the bus station. A passing chap cheered us all up, our bus hadn’t shown yesterday. A chap with a pukka English accent found the FlixBus number, the bus was coming, in five minutes.

Twenty minutes later, the same message. And again.  Someone said they had a message from FlixBus, – bus delayed.  Ditto for Hector. Why tell lies? Why sell tickets for a bus they knew would not run? FlixBus no more. 

I had studied those with whom I stood. Standing beside the English sounding chap, I suggested a taxi to Frankfurt. It was pointed out that a Polish driver, any driver, would be quarantined for fourteen days on the return. Slubice was mentioned, I thought Frankfurt straddled the border, it doesn’t. An Irish lady had the Uber app and a quote, under 600zl. I immediately offered a quarter share in cash. I spotted the taxi, over I went accompanied by Debbie and Steve from Ireland, Konrad the pukka chap who was of Polish descent and fluent in both languages, handy. The young taxi driver spoke to who knows who for ten minutes, another car was going to take us, eventually we piled into his small Toyota.

1980, El-Arish to Suez, 2010 Sharm El-Sheikh to Taba crossing the border to Eilat, Hector has used long distance taxi rides as a solution before.

How featureless is western Polska? Ninety minutes plus in a taxi to Slubice, we were dropped off at the roundabout nearest the bridge.

The Bridge of Tries

Last year, Steve and Hector went to Potsdam and crossed – The Bridge of Spies. That was history, this was now. The Polish side of the bridge was blocked, we knew not what awaited across the River Oder.

Tents, chaps in biohazard suits, ambulances, border police, Schengen no more. We were waived through, no checks. Taxis pulled up, returnee Poles, we walked across the bridge purposefully. The Deutsche Grenzen never looked so good, our escape, into East Germany!

Google Maps took us to the Bahnhof, Hector was back on home territory and purchased the group ticket. One hour and ten minutes to Alexanderplatz. I had asked for a noon check-in at the Mercure. At 12.10, Zzzzzz.

Mid afternoon it was Curry o’clock. Taking no chances I went back to Swera, success.

In recent Berlin visits I have had lighter Bier at Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt before heading for the good stuff of an evening. I have never seen the place so quiet. Attempting to take a seat at the bar, I was led to a table mid room. The police have declared a fixed distance between customers, though groups can sit together.

I started with a Helles before going on to the Edelstoff. One or two more was predicted. I phoned Bräugier, no reply just after their 17.00 opening time. Eventually I got through to Brian, Mein Host recognised me on the phone. Bars are closed in Berlin, restaurants can remain open, a request, not a directive.

Having already closed the southern borders facing Italia, as of tomorrow at 08.00, the remaining Deutsche Grenzen close. Will this include flights, trains, a la Polska?

Faced with the possibility of having to escape from Deutschland, I looked up the possibilities. ICE Train to Brussel, seats available, onward by Eurostar, £300.00 approximately. I alerted Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley that refuge may be sought. Suppose the Inter City trains are cancelled? I consulted a well known train enthusiast – which German town has the closest/shortest border crossing into Belgium such that I can use local transport on both sides of the border? Strangely, that question received no answer,  the scenario that had never been considered before. If barred from moving at all, I present myself at the British Consulate in Berlin – #gethehectorhome.

More Edelstoff. Was I last out of Augustiner?

Three hours on a bus, three hours on a bus station floor, not the best six hours I have ever spent. The six hours at Augustiner were way better.

back to – Day #3 of how many in Polska?

Posted in Berlin, Lodz, Poznan, Slubice | Comments Off on Escape from Polska! – Lodz – Poznan – Slubice – Frankfurt (Oder) – Berlin

Lodz – Day #3 of how many in Polska?

Posted on March 14, 2020 by Hector

The Ibis Hotel has a contemporary design, a central atrium around which some rooms have their windows, those on the opposite side of the corridor have an external window. This is where Hector spent twenty one of today’s twenty four hours.

Around noon I went out to see the city in daylight, but firstly I had to get a train ticket to Warszawa for tomorrow morning.

Rather than head back out to Widzew, I schlepped to Kaliska which is not in the city centre either. Lodz has a new, third, train station built underground – Lodz Fabryczna. As I would discover later, it is not operational and also is hardly down-town.

Ticket purchased, I took a taxi to Stare Miasto, (Old Town), Rynek (Main Square). As the 1960s architecture gave way to the classic, so I spotted some fine old industrial buildings which have been converted to apartments/retail.

I have never seen such a featureless main square. I didn’t hang about and headed back to the main city centre axis that is Piotrkowska.

On any other Saturday this would have been a hive of activity, not today, and for how long? A local convenience food chain is all that was open. I knew the Ibis would feed me, however, I decided to find the Curry Houses that lay en route.

Ganesha was open, but only for Takeaway. I was still too far from home to consider this. There was no sign of life at Masala Ghor. The latter is where I was originally heading last night, avoiding a soaking took me to – Touch of India, to my sorrow.

I had located another cluster of three Craft Beer Houses at the northern end of Piotrkowska. Bobby Burger (6 Taps) was open, I assumed again – for Takeaway only – is what the ladies inside told me. Burger is Hector’s food of last resort.

Next was Warkot Klubopiwiarnia (11 Taps), a micro-brewery which I had hoped to spend much of today in.

Finally, Z Innej Beczki (13 Taps).

Lodz is famous for its theatrical and cinematography heritage. I saw the stars on the pavement, but not Roman Polanski’s whose film – The Tenant – is associated with electrical malfunctions in Hector’s House every time an attempt has been made to view it. I have the DVD, maybe now is not a good time.

Back to the Ibis, the bar was closed, food was available, but had to be taken to one’s room. Pasta later, I ordered a Burger. People actually eat these things. I succumbed to the tap lager, cold, yellow and fizzy.

Late afternoon, I studied flights from Warszawa and found a Monday night flight back to Edinburgh. No sooner had I booked this than my Tuesday morning flight to Manchester was cancelled. Moments later the Edinburgh flight was gone. I was not prepared to stay in Polska for the originally booked flight home from Krakow on Monday week. Hector had to get out of Polska. I tried destinations other than the UK, no go. All Inter-City trains were cancelled. Bus, FlixBus, I have previously used. There were no seats left from Warszawa, I tried Lodz. The 00.45 tonight from Lodz to Berlin was booked. Only on booking did the app reveal a three hour stopover in Poznan (03.45 – 06.50). I booked two nights accommodation in Berlin and a Tuesday morning flight back to Manchester. It had to be.

The venues not visited today:

Bobby Burger – Piotrkowska 59, 90-001 Lodz

Warkot Klubopiwiarnia – Prez. Gabriela Narutowicz 7/9, 90-001

Z Innej Beczki – Stanislawa Moniuszki 6, 90-111

 … back to Day #2 of how many in Polska?

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Lodz – Day #2 of how many in Polska?

Posted on March 13, 2020 by Hector

Today was meant to be the day for – Pendragon – alas, I knew before I left Scotland that the gig was cancelled, Friday 13th.

A lunchtime train to Lodz (“Woodge”) was chosen to occupy the gap between check-out and check-in. A taxi was necessary to ferry me from Lodz Widzew to the Hotel Ibis in the heart of the city.

Having consulted ontapl.pl, it was with a merry gait that I headed off to PiwPaw a few minutes away on Piortrkowska, the main drag in Lodz.

Rowing Jack (Ale Browar, Polska) was reportedly on Tap 26, just the ninety seven taps to choose from, plus cans.

Rowing Jack was aff, why had nobody updated the usually reliable website? I chose Hula Hop (Ale Browar, Polska) a 5/% white IPA. Gold, slightly hazy, whatever was in it, a case of – no thanks. The taste on the top palate sensed – almost  Weizen – thereafter it was neither one thing or another.

The bar was remarkably quiet, people choosing not to go out on a Friday night. The staff were all wearing gloves, no direct contact with customers.

Fortunately, my next choice was better. Wilcy Szlak (Browar Markowy, Polska) a 6.9% AIPA was gold and clear. This dry Pivo had a decent body and a definite Polish after-taste. With no astringency, this was quite a decent Bier.

Ninety seven taps, actually space for a hundred, and no recognisable – Milkshake NEIPA. I decided to take my chances elsewhere.

Pub Spolzielczy Lodz was effectively round the back from PiwPaw but required a walk around the block, in the rain. There were more bar-staff than customers when I entered, I balanced the tally. I liked this place, the brewing process illustrated on the wall with quite a new take.

Just the twenty taps, still no NEIPA. I opted for Hopman (Browar Szpunt, Polska) 6.0%, a muddy milkshake, the sought for taste was not there. Despite the presence of Nelson Sauvin (NZ), Citra (USA), Equanot (USA), and Galaxy (Aus) hops, this was very much in the style of a Polish Pivo.

With that, it was Curry o’clock. Had it not been raining I may have ventured further, alas I went to the nearest venue – Touch of India. I wish it hadn’t been raining.

*

Between Starter and Main Course, what I feared most, happened. As of midnight tomorrow, when I am due to be in Warszawa, the Polish border closes. Bars and restaurants have been ordered not to open, though restaurants can serve food to take away. Faced with boredom and possible starvation, I knew I had to get out of Polska as soon as.  I found one flight for tomorrow morning from Katowice at 11.00 for £236.00.  I doubted that I could get there in time. I booked a flight to Manchester on Tuesday at stupid o’clock. I then spent an age deliberating on how best to get to Modlin Airport in the middle of the night.

Back out in the rain, I checked out the third Craft Beer Bar in this cluster. Chmielowa Dolina was closed, back to PiwPaw. The barman attempted to give me something close to – the style.

Piwo Na Miodze Wielokwiatowym Z Imbirem (Manufaktura Piwn, Polska) at 5.0% was being sold as an AIPA. This was occupying the tap that may once have had Rowing Jack. Gold, with a slight haze, this was suitably dry with a decent body for the abv. Nothing special, nothing nasty.

I had finished my Bier, the rain was so heavy it looked like a tropical downpour. Given that, I knew it couldn’t last, I sat it out. Whilst I waited, a Doris stuck a sign on the door, I needed no translation.

Back at the Ibis, the best Bier on offer was in bottle and by a well known Polish brewery. APA (Zywiec, Polska) at 5.4% was amber with a muddy haze. There was a slight sweetness, one was enough. And thus Hector began writing up a Blog.

The venues visited today:

PiwPaw – Piotrkowska 147, 90-440 Lódz

Pub Spolzielczy Lodzal  –   Tadeusza Ko?ciuszki 80/82, 90-437 Lódz

Ibis Hotel  –  al. Marsza?ka Józefa Pi?sudskiego 11, 90-368 Lódz

Touch of India  –  Ludwika Zamenhofa 3a, 90-431 Lódz

… back to Day #1 of how many in Polska?

 … continue to Day #3 of how many days in Polska?

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Katowice – Day #1 of how many in Polska?

Posted on March 12, 2020 by Hector

This trip to Polska was conceived a year ago in Haarlem. Bieres Sans Frontieres, the staff who work in the – Foreign Bar(s) – at the Great British Beer Festival have their own society. Having staffed the Paisley then Glasgow equivalents since the mid 1990s, and even the actual GBBF, Hector knows those who have to be known. Barcelona 2018 was my last appearance, knowing more about this year’s venue – Krakow – than many, Hector was not missing out.

Then Pendragon announced their tour dates. By extending the trip forwards, the Lodz gig was possible. Yesterday, Pendragon had no choice but to leave Polska, their concerts cancelled due to – Koronawirus. After a sleepless night going through the possible outcomes, Hector headed off to Manchester on the 08.00 from Glasgow Central, changing at Preston. TransPennine have been abandoned, unreliable.

Arriving early courtesy of Mr. O’Leary at Katowice, chaps boarded the ‘plane. Since we took off, the Ministry of Health (Polska) had introduced a form to be filled in…Koronawirus … had we been to China etc. There was more than one pen provided, it felt otherwise. Hector’s form was in Polish, thankfully the chap beside me had the English version and the patience to talk me through it. Seat 11F, just in case that becomes relevant.

Hector was second last off the ‘plane, chaps in biohazard suits had an instrument to test my forehead. All was well. The luggage was one of three bags remaining on the belt. Having landed at 17.45, it was 18.15 when I set foot outside the terminal, at Edinburgh Airport it typically takes double that time.

A fleet of mini-coaches were on hand to ferry us to Krakow/Katowice. 25Zl, and fifty minutes later, Hector was checking-in to Hotel Katowice. Room 633, the irony. On my first visit I had to get up in the middle of the night to deal with a mosquito before it did the inevitable.

*

*

It had been raining since I left the airport, it wasn’t going to stop. Passing Biala Malpa, and that was difficult knowing that a certain Zichovec Pivo – of Juicy Lucy fame – was on, I overestimated the distance to Icy & Spicy and found the new Bus Station. It should be open soon. The Curry at Icy & Spicy ticked a few boxes.

It was still raining, of course, as I again took twice as long to find Biala Malpa, one would think it was three years since I was last here. This long established venue has spread across the alley to include a Mexican Restaurant. Once all the Curry Houses have been visited, perhaps.

Juicy Lucy was the Pivo of the recent trip to Praha of which I have blogged – nothing. Finding it on tap at the Manchester Beer Festival in January was ridiculous. We finished it then went on to Nectar of Happiness, at 7.0% and in the juicy, Milkshake style, possibly even better. It was the latter which was waiting for me at Biala Malpa. Whilst enjoying this, I spotted the full range of Zichovec Pivo in bottles, in other company and with more time…

Three years, it has been three years since Hector last had Pivo with Robert of Browariat fame, too long. I had hoped to be there by 22.00, it was 22.20 when I walked down into the basement bar that is Browariat.

*

Hector was greeted, there were no other customers. Juicy Lucy was reported here a month or so back, but has gone.

It’s astonishing how Hector’s favourite Bier style is enjoyed by so many. Robert had something just as good he claimed, a challenge.  Sir Barks-a-Lot (Sudden Death, Deutschland) is a 6.8% NEIPA in the now classic Milkshake style. It had – the taste, all was well.

*

We had much to catch up on. Koronawirus could have catastrophic effects on Robert’s business, Italia, who have suffered most to date in Europe, have already declared all restaurants, bars, should be closed. Coronavirus after Brexit, lucky white heather. At 23.15, a truck pulled up outside. Bier from a cancelled Fest was brought in, Hector watched. What will happen to this Pivo if nobody can come out to drink it?

Robert and his able barman had waited up, the final Pivo was a can of Jejune IPA (Fuesrt Wiacek, Berlin, 6.8%) whose Bier I have enjoyed in recent trips to Berlin. Again,  this was totally – in the style.

Bill paid, a can of Het Uiltje (Nederland) was given for the road. I decided to keep this for an – emergency. The plan is to return here next Wednesday on the way back from Warszawa before Krakow. That feels a long time off. Hopefully all will go well for Robert, without Browariat, Katowice would never be the same.

The morning after

Breakfast at Hotel Katowice is included in the price else Hector would never have bothered with it. In the early visits, the ladies supervising the Buffet were clearly from the days before 1989. The glares when people filled their plates were fierce. Now things are much more relaxed, an opperchancity to enjoy some Polish tastes and fill up for the day. 

… continuing Day #2 of how many in Polska?

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Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 7

Posted on February 8, 2020 by Hector

Today was notionally – shopping day. Not that we bought much, a couple of souvenir t-shirts – Tram 28. Hector wandering around Glasgow wearing a – Lisbon – t-shirt? Aye right.

We recharged our travel tickets knowing that these would still be valid tomorrow morning to take us to the airport. Praça Dom Pedro IV had a few shoe shops but stocked nothing that suited. That was the end of the shopping, yay!

Marg’s main objective today was to visit a Coffee House on Praça da Figuera that we had passed often. A chain, Confeitaria Nacional is long established, 1872 was the year emblazoned on the building. We squeezed ourselves in, the Coffee ritual was completed to Marg’s satisfaction, a chocolate truffle may have sneaked in also.

We passed Swaagat, an Indian restaurant whose menu boasted a Lamb Karahi without Capsicum. Why was Hector not straight in there? I could have squeezed in another Curry.

Having walked up Avenue da Liberdade on Day #2, somehow we had missed the parallel street to the east – Rua das Portas de Santo Antão. This pedestrianised street had its own character and was popular with the locals.

Ice Cream Doughnuts – caught the eye. I was trying to imagine what one might look like, we had to investigate. Sadly it was one or other, or both I suppose. Can Hector patent actual – Ice-Cream Doughnuts? 

Every day I on this trip I have put various permutations of Bier, Craft Beer, Pubs, Bars, Brewpubs, Microbreweries etc. into Google. There are recurring venues which I know will not be managed this time around. Yesterday, Steve and Hector independently discovered – Sputnik Craft Beer – possibly a – Brewpub. Today, Cerveja Canil suddenly appeared on Google Maps and it was in the downtown area where we were. Hector Holmes was on the case.

Two chaps manned the bar, at least one must have been a brewer. We engaged in Bier talk, such that when Marg caught up with me it was deemed I had better try one of their own. Sadly the NEIPA was off and was not coming back on until next week. I promised to to return later today. With thirty two taps, the most we have seen, there surely had to be something else worthwhile.

We wandered down to the waterfront for the last time and took time to admire the sandcastles and stacked-stones. Marg was impressed when I found the Tram 28 stop to wheech us back up the hill to our apartment.

Steve and Louise were on the same Metro on the magical green line to Intendente. Sputnik Craft Beer was around the corner to the north. There was only one Sputnik brew on the board, that was incidental, Tangeripa (21 Gallas) was available. This has been the best Bier found in Lisboa this week, Hector was up for another session.

Apart from snacks, Sputnik only sells Bier. Unlike Cerveja Lisboa last night, the serving Doris was not being forthcoming about alternatives. I asked if I could bring in soft drinks from outside, Doris wasn’t happy about this. Fortunately, Marg was content to sit for a moment with tap water and watch Steve and Hector indulge in this gloriously juicy 7.0% Tangerine NEIPA. Louise had something lesser.

I went out to get Marg some cola, there were plenty of Takeaway outlets nearby. I decided to check out the Chinese restaurant across the street. All About Noodles – looked appealing, I would moot this on my return. On Marg’s round, she too went across, it was written, we would dine there.

Meat, Noodles, Spicy – was my request. #604 – Massa a Lanzhou – (€6.90) was recommended, Louise followed Hector’s lead. We took our seats and waited, much longer than anticipated. I suppose they were also serving Takeaway customers.

I was more than happy with what arrived despite the fact I knew I would be hungry again in thirty minutes. I had a cunning plan if that was so.

The Green Line took us back down towards Canil. The Brewpub was way busier than this afternoon, it was girls behind the bar.

Marg had a Cocktail, how much? The Bier was – OK – why no more NEIPA?

Canil impressed, decent music at a sensible volume, the place had atmosphere and was easily the busiest venue we had visited this week. It was a Saturday. A pity I didn’t come across it sooner. Definitely a place to check out, and its central location is advantageous. However, 21 Gallas was by far the best source of Bier and our wildest night, well Hector’s anyway.

We walked through Baixa-Chiado Metro station and took the escalators up to Largo do Chiado for the final time. Home in minutes, except, Hector had one final indulgence.

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*

*

*

The Kebap shop on the corner of the street to our apartment has been tempting the Hector all week. It was now or never.

A week in Lisbon, excellent, and still places to visit. Why did nobody tell me about the castles at Sintra?

The venues visited today:

Confeitaria Nacional – Praça da Figueira, Praça Dom Pedro IV 18B, 1100-241 Lisboa

Cerveja Canil – Rua dos Douradores 133, 1100-204 Lisboa

Sputnik Craft Beer – Rua Andrade 41A, 1170-014 Lisboa

Pitha Kebab & Burger House – Calçada do Combro 18, 1200-114 Lisboa

back to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 6

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Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 6

Posted on February 7, 2020 by Hector

Hector goes sailing, fortunately the ferry from Cais de Sodré to Almada-Cacilhas is but a short hop. There was no Curry-Heute, if we were going for a day trip, better to have lunch at our destination.

We took Ascensor da Bica from outside our apartment down towards the ferry terminal. We had acquired a second pair of tickets due to time overlaps on previous days. We recharged one set for our transport around Lisboa later, and charged the spares for the boat. Both of these actions were completed at the respective ticket desks.

I had made no attempt to establish the ferry timetable, the boats leave every few minutes. Indeed, we were aboard the next ferry in minutes. The passenger area totally enclosed, there was no going out to take better photos. Hector sat still, concentrating on not letting the ever so slight swell in the Tagus estuary cause bother.

Craft Beer and Curry were both reported in Cacilhas. It was too early for Bier and Curry was planned for later with Steve and Louise. A traditional Portuguese lunch is what Hector had in mind, it did cause slight consternation when I kept passing Curry Houses.

We picked our venue – Cova Funda. People were sat outside, the inside looked emptier, the premises next door had no customers at all, let’s follow the locals.

Fish Curry is what I had planned for later at Ganesha Palace. This was not putting me off having Fish for lunch, one can never eat too much Fish. I spotted a sharing Dish on the Menu at a reasonable price (€22.00), it ticked the boxes. Marg was on board.

The Order was given, I had picked out the Fish Stew as opposed to one containing Seafood to avoid – eyes – Marg does not like her dinner to stare back at her. It had gone 14.00, we settled down for the wait, which went on and on.

A lady offering cloth flowers to raise money for charity was entertained, at least this one might last. We waited and waited, another lady at the adjacent table talked for Portugal, her husband listened, he knew his place.

It took forty minutes for our lunch to arrive, when it did, the heart sank. How the **** were we going to eat this? Marg didn’t kill me. How was I to know this would feed a family of six?

I had never seen so much Fish in a pot, many varieties, mixed with Potatoes in an abundant Fish Stock. Only the garnish was minimal.

Marg took pieces without – eyes – those I had to take. The lumps of Fish were a magnificent challenge.  The gilet was zipped up else the yellow polo-shirt was doomed.

A bit of something brown came my way. The texture was horrible, the taste so familiar – Liver! Hector hates Liver, set aside. What sort of Fish was so big to have a Liver this size?

Marg was defeated, Hector was determined that as little as possible would go to waste. One can never have too much Fish, except today. The Potatoes were mashed into the gravy, a fine distraction. Still, we left enough to feed two. Hopefully it didn’t go to waste. Cue a Cheshire cat?

We took the next tram four stops to Almada and walked up the hill. Steve had said something about a bus, this was more straightforward, though we did see a bus stop at the gate to the park.

Walking through the car park, I spotted an entrance at the rear of the base of the statue, in we went, wrong way. Voices in Portuguese were telling us to go round the other side. I chose anti-clockwise, had I chosen clockwise, our day would have been entirely different.

Marg was half a pace behind, I heard to cries, firstly from Marg which puzzled, she never makes noises like that. Then the Portuguese lady joined in. Wtf? Marg had been shat on from on high. This was not the droppings from a passing gull but an ostrich-sized bird, surely. Her hair was covered, her cardigan, the lady started to wipe Marg’s clothes with tissues, women always carry tissues for such an emergency. I was handed tissues to deal with Marg’s hair. Then the chap addressed me. Hector had been assaulted too, the back of gilet and my trousers were a mess. There’s a photo of the state I was in, Marg was too far gone for photos.

There was an elevator nearly to the top of the statue, but not far enough. It was good to know that there was at least one elevator in Portugal. There were more stairs than anticipated to the viewing platform. Once outside the old fear of heights, or should that really be – falling, kicked in. I did the necessaries and got off. The views from the base of the tower overlooking Almada, Lisboa, Ponte de 25 Avril and Belém were just as good from here. The statute also looks better from the distance.

Heading back to the ferry terminal I realised I had lost a credit card. It is most likely that I left it at Cova Funda, they were closed late afternoon. We could have waited, but why make the day any worse? A hydrofoil took us back to Cais de Sodré and Ascensor da Bica back to our apartment.

We needed another treat before Bier and Curry. The Ice-Cream parlour on the corner outside the apartment had been passed for days, it was time. It’s amazing how a shower, a change of clothes and an Ice-Cream can improve one’s lot.

Having ventured west to Belém, more Bier houses had popped up on the map. From the bottom of Ascensor da Bica we took the bus to Quimera Brewpub.

The garden entrance impressed, the premises occupy an historic tunnel, quirky. Thereafter everything disappointed. We couldn’t sit where we wished, Marg was shown to a particular table whilst I studied the board. Too many on the list had the dreaded – Brett – yeast infection deliberately added. I do not understand this fad, who wants Bier which tastes of sweaty sox?

The service at the bar was somewhat annoying. Perhaps it was a case of too many staff each with their own task. Smug – might be an apt description of their collective attitude. Condescend ye not.

Neither Bier impressed. I wonder who manages this place and what they are trying to achieve. If this range of Bier and the collective staff attitude maintains, sod them.

Being a clever old Hector, I knew there was a bus stopping outside which would take us to within metres of Ganesha Palace. It arrived on time, we were punctual.

Steve and Louise approached from the opposite direction, Curry at 20.00. A flashier joint than the venues I had visited previously, the Curry was good, not outstanding. And yes, I had the Fish Curry!

I had chosen Ganesha Palace because from there it was downhill to our next Bierhaus – Cerveteca Lisboa. It was, until the final block. Still, well judged otherwise.

We had a great night at Cerveteca Lisboa, even though the Bier did not match the quality of Tangeripa (21 Gallas). That they only sold Bier meant that Marg was invited to go next door for wine and bring it in. The people next door also showed good humour.

Bier from Estonia, I had two. The 6.5% Pillerkakaar (Pühaste, Estonia) proved to be a decent session Bier. The – milkshake DDH DIPA – Suhe (Pühaste, Estonia) suffered due to being served too warm. Cold Bier can be warmed up, the opposite does not hold.

It was only a few minutes walk, again downhill, to our apartment. No elevator had been installed in our absence. One more day to go.

The venues visited today:

Cova Funda  –  Rua Cândido dos Reis 101, 2800-600 Almada

Quimera Brewpub – Craft Beer – Cervejaria Artesanal  –  Rua Prior do Crato 6, 1350-261 Lisboa

Cerveteca Lisboa  –  Praça das Flores 63, 1200-192 Lisboa

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on to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 7

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Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 5

Posted on February 6, 2020 by Hector

Today’s excursions was to the Lisbon Sea-life Centre – Oceanário de Lisboa, a change from taking Marg to the zoo.

We walked down town using the tried and tested route. Cafe Nicola faces on to Praça  Dom Pedro IV, we have seen it mostly from the rear. Marg has wanted to visit this pukka restaurant since Day 1, today was the day. Marg had her Coffee in posher surroundings.

Having had no Curry for two days, more was overdue. Caxemira – Conzinha Indiana – was recommended by one of my own Curryspondents, a venue one would simply never stumble across. This was another Quality Curry, Portugal continues to impress on this front.

We took Bus 728 in the opposite direction today, northwards to the grand aquarium. This was clearly a modern commercial suburb of Lisbon, almost a New Town, we would see more afterwards. In the meantime, the giraffe had to be captured, bring on G-RAF 2020.

Fish are difficult subjects to photograph, they keep moving. The glass also makes things more difficult, reflections. Still, I managed a few which are worth posting. One can never have too many photos of Fish.

Steve and Louise caught up with us, they had taken a different route. What did they know that I didn’t?

Fish gave way to birds, who likes Penguins? The Sea Otters suddenly became the best part of the whole exhibition, Marg was enthralled. Hector will come home with tales of Bier and Curry, Marg, what she saw this afternoon.

In the distance lay Ponte Vasco da Gama, this bridge goes on a bit. There is also Torre Vasco da Gama – a tower, no sign of a statue. Steve and Louise went off to visit the tower despite my warning that it was closed, it was. I led Marg to the Vasco da Gama shopping centre, still no statue. Across the road from this is a conference centre, hundreds spilled out as we passed by.

Getting out of this area could be a challenge, fortunately there was a fleet of coaches to take many delegates away.

With Marg sated by her afternoon Coffee it was time to find the bus to take us part of the way back to Lisbon proper. There are two Breweries out here, Fábrica Musa, whose Musa da Bica Taproom was visited two nights back, and Dois Corvos, the latter reportedly opens early afternoon. Having found the right bus stop, it took around thirty minutes for our bus to show. Once more, Google Maps were telling us nonsense re the bus schedule, else it was in in chaos, possibly the latter.

It was not a surprise therefore to find Steve and Louise already ensconced when we reached Dois Corvos. A couple of decent Biers were had. Their Two Sides at 4.8% was in the style, sensible for late afternoon, but not Tangeripa (21 Gallas, Lisboa).

We could have stayed here longer, however, some required dinner. Somewhat bravely, we jumped on the first bus which came, it was headed to Alameda, where the Red and Green Metro lines cross. There are also about a dozen Curry Houses in this locale. The Green Metro line is proving to be particularly useful, a lot of decent Bier outlets lie along it. I suspect that on my next Lisboa visit, the area around Alameda may be the place to stay.

Also sprach Hector, the Lisboa expert after five days.

Steve and Louise went off to sample the Curry at Caxemira, they too were impressed. We went Portuguese, well sort of. Having wandered through the restaurant area south of Praça Dom Pedro IV, some with prices on their menus, too many without, we selected Leitaria A Camponeza. We wanted to sit indoors, not so warm this evening. This restaurant looked – bijou.

The menu was quite limited, – Kebap – was essentially what was on offer. I become frustrated too often in Hellas by the number of restaurants which are basically – Grill Houses. Can nobody cook any more? I asked if Vegetables would accompany, they assured us this was possible. Sauce? A – Pepper Sauce – was chosen from a list of three. What eventually came was a joke.

The chap serving was evidently new, hadn’t a clue, clumsy. We all have our first day at a new job. A frame had been built on each table from which to suspend the skewers so, hint, there’s no point placing glasses, bottles, anything else directly under the hooks, fumble.

The Kebabs were suspended, a plate of steamed Vegetables accompanied, then a bottle of a Tabasco variant was presented, my sauce. I had a mental image of a creamy sauce with black peppercorns as served at Hector’s House.

The meal was actually enjoyable, better than a Burger, but still in the same category as far as I am concerned. Grill, fine as a Starter.

Delirium Café was our next rendezvous point, a bar we had chanced upon on Day 1, metres from Allchiado where we had our first lunch, and right next to the eastern entrance to Baixa-Chiado Metro station. Steve and Louise were studying the Bier List when we arrived.

Over-priced, and a somewhat tired menu would sum up this trendy bar. The Craft Beer Bars offer so much more and as for Delirium selling traditional Bier at even higher prices, no way.

We had a relatively early night, certainly compared to last night, though it ended similarly with the escalator passage through the Metro station.

The Venues visited today:

Café Nicola – Praça Dom Pedro IV 24, 1100-200 Lisboa

Caxemira – Conzinha Indiana – Rua dos Condes de Monsanto 4, 1º Dt. º-1100 – Lisboa

Dois Corvos – Tap Room – Rua Cap. Leitão 94, 1950-052 Lisboa

Delirium Café Lisboa  –  Calçada Nova de São Francisco 2A, 1200-289 Lisboa

Leitaria A Camponeza  –  Rua dos Sapateiros 155, 1100-619 Lisboa

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Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 4

Posted on February 5, 2020 by Hector

Today we were mobile and so covered a lot of kilometres. There was no Curry-Heute, we had Portuguese cuisine once again for lunch.

Restaurant – Adega Dantas – was directly below our apartment, open by noon and most importantly, sold the – Codfish Cakes – that we knew we had to try. Neither of us were prepared for the sheer size of the venue when we walked in, a – Tardis. The exterior had suggested a small cafe-restaurant, this was the full bhuna.

A couple of Fish Cakes are not going to fill a Hector, so the Prawn dish was ordered as a supplement. There had to be a Croquette, just the one. Marg stuck to her usual – Salad. Ah, we ordered four Codfish Cakes risking another mountain of food as on Day #1. Everything was clearly priced, the service was friendly, efficient, and boy did this place fill up. Arriving early was a good plan.

As Fish Cakes go, these were fine, I suspect Hector’s home-cooked Fish Cakes may be just as good. So what is the similar creation that has Cheese inside? Marg’s Salad was another monster meaning more of the remainder was coming my way. The Croquette did the job, that being enabling a photo to wind up Howard. QED. Then there was a Prawn or two…

Wow! …and *** Wow! I have had Prawns in Garlic Butter before before, but nothing like this. I like my food well Seasoned, but this was right on the cusp of excessive. These Prawns were simply glorious, the actual King Prawns themselves were probably the best I have ever had, and there was enough of them. Then the Salt and Garlic just took everything up a level, then another. Next time in Lisboa, I’ll be back. Tram 28 takes you to within metres of Adega Dantas.

We had to recharge our tickets purchased on arrival at the airport. Newsagent kiosks were not up for doing this, we were sent to the Metro. One chap pointed to his right suggesting a Metro station was nearby. The ones we knew were at the bottom of the hill, Rossio we had passed often. For reasons unfathomable, buying a new ticket was way easier than recharging. We needed a dedicated ticket kiosk, closed at both entrances. So instead of catching Tram 15E at Praça do Comércio, we walked in the downstream direction to Cais do Sodré which I took to be a transport hub.

With suitably invigorated tickets, we waited for the tram outside the metro terminus / train station / ferry port. The tram sped along taking us under Ponte 25 de Abril whose similarity to the Golden Gate Bridge (San Francisco) is not coincidental. Then the tram stopped, everyone got off except Johnny Foreigner & co. Whatever was preventing the tram from continuing remained unknown. People piled on to the bus behind, not a good idea. Once the crowd had dissipated I chose the moment to alight and board Bus 728 which had just pulled up behind us.

Santa Maria de Belém, still regarded as part of Lisboa, had the first extensive greenery we had seen. I took an instant liking to this parish, and yes, Curry is available here. Before visiting the main objective of the day, we had to take photos of the exterior of the monastery – Mosteiro dos Jerónimos – what a name!

We walked through Jardim de Vasco da Gama towards the coastline. There was a statue on a column in the distance, could it be? The Thai Pagoda had to be taken in. That Lisboa’s most famous monument is so far from the city centre puzzled. Built to commemorate 500 years since the passing of Henry the Navigator, I was again wondering why Vasco da Gama was not being commemorated to this extent, or even Magellan (oh, that’s another famous historical Portuguese figure I know). Padrão dos Descobrimentos – is the official name of this very impressive monument. We walked westwards towards the Belém Tower so as to get the best light for photographs. The construction of the harbour meant our route did not let us get any closer to the tower. Next time, I had already decided that coming back here on a future Lisbon trip would be mandatory, I was simply enjoying the atmosphere of the entire neighbourhood.

We took lots of photos, even getting the Ponte 25 de Abril in shot and Almada across the Tagus, Friday.

Cold drinks were required at a venue which claimed to be a Bierhaus but was no more than a flashy bar-restaurant. However on leaving, the light was perfect, the water between us and the monument permitted even better photos.

Back through the garden of Vasco da Gama, we reached the column, nope, not he. This was Afonso de Albuquerque.

Once more, I have no idea who he was, and at this time don’t care. Where is the statue of Vasco da Gama?

We took the bus back to Cais do Sodré and walked the few metres to the Time Out Market, as recommended by the Leicester couple from two nights ago.

Bier was available, but nothing to excite. Marg went to one outlet for coffee. A bit late in the day for Hector to be drinking coffee. Hector sourced a treat for Marg, to share.

The rear exit left us a one block walk to Ascensor da Bica. Finally, it was time to use this well planned device. Only idiots would walk up a hill that steep. A single ticket is about half the price of the day ticket which covers, Bus/Metro/Tram/Funicular. Integrated transport, just like Glasgow, not.

What I didn’t know until Steve told us this evening, Vasco da Gama was buried in the monastery. As I write this, I discover that Vasco da Gama is the second sculpture from the left on the east facing side of the monument. All my photos are from the sunlit western side. Hector, Belém is calling you back. In the morning the sun will be in a better place and then Curry can be had for lunch. Next trip.

Have tickets will travel. Tonight we planned to visit two Breweries on the eastern side of town and both on the magical Tram 28 route, yay! The route downhill was a bit of a roller-coaster, I see now why this is a famous route. We alighted high up on the other side and walked down to 8a Colina. The Brewery was through an archway, but no sign of a Taproom. The gatekeeper assured us the Taproom was on the other side of the hill. Up and over we went, a five minute walk, I warned Steve by text that the obvious destination was not the right one. As we approached the Taproom, so the view over the city impressed, unlike the photo, tripod required.

8a Graça (Oitava Colina) – to give the most accurate name I can find, has ten taps. The place was quiet which was surprising given how busy a nearby bar was. The Vila Berta NEIPA despite its wishy-washy appearance proved to be even better on tap than in bottles (The Beer Station, two nights ago). The Elisa Sour also lived up to the given description.

Steve and Louise caught up with us, Bier was had, time to move on. Returning to the tram stop, Steve realised a bus would also take us the short hop to 21 Gallas Brewpub. The stop was outside a Curry House, with the microbrewery across the street, what more does a Hector require?

Let’s start sensibly. The 6.0% Simcoe IPA looked the part but was not up to the high standard hoped for. Cue the Tangeripa! A 7.0% Tangerine NEIPA, this had exactly what is presently looked for, in the class of Cloudwater, Verdant et al. Despite the Bier being served far too cold, nothing was shifting the Hector.

Food was mooted, the serving Doris informed us the food was off. A Bier or two later food was restored. Food was ordered, Nachos. More Bier.

Needless to say when it was time to depart it really was time to go. The serving Doris had shown good humour all night, this was a place I would highly recommend. On a return trip to Lisboa it could become a case of head straight here, but if Tangeripa ain’t on, then what?

We headed south on the Green Metro line, Rossio, the stop we know best was missed, oops. Baixa-Chiado was next. The top of the stairs from the platform left us with a choice, left or right.

We had no idea where we were, I spotted escalators, up is better than not. How many sets? Upwards we went, and up again. This was going on forever, a deeper hole than any Praha Metro station and some of them are seriously deep.

*

*

The event had to be recorded, photos of Marg and Louise, Marg told me to watch out, why? Oh, that’s why, the end of the escalator. Momentum took me backwards, falling on my arse was the safest way to kill it.

So where were we? Praça Luís de Camões, we recognised it immediately, five small blocks from our apartment, and more importantly, near enough the top of the hill! We had not spotted this Metro entrance over our four days due to the hoardings and the roadworks.

What a discovery. The five flights of stairs were a doddle after this. This was definitely the best day so far.

The venues visited today:

21 Gallas Brewpub Craft Beer  –  Rua Angelina Vidal 53A, 1170-122 Lisboa

8a Graça (Oitava Colina)  –  Rua Damasceno Monteiro 8A, 1170-112 Lisboa

Adega Dantas  –  Rua Mal. Saldanha 15, 1200-109 Lisboa

Time Out Market  –  Av. 24 de Julho 49, 1200-479 Lisboa

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