Bier-Traveller

Today was notionally – shopping day. Not that we bought much, a couple of souvenir t-shirts – Tram 28. Hector wandering around Glasgow wearing a – Lisbon – t-shirt? Aye right.

We recharged our travel tickets knowing that these would still be valid tomorrow morning to take us to the airport. Praça Dom Pedro IV had a few shoe shops but stocked nothing that suited. That was the end of the shopping, yay!

Marg’s main objective today was to visit a Coffee House on Praça da Figuera that we had passed often. A chain, Confeitaria Nacional is long established, 1872 was the year emblazoned on the building. We squeezed ourselves in, the Coffee ritual was completed to Marg’s satisfaction, a chocolate truffle may have sneaked in also.

We passed Swaagat, an Indian restaurant whose menu boasted a Lamb Karahi without Capsicum. Why was Hector not straight in there? I could have squeezed in another Curry.

Having walked up Avenue da Liberdade on Day #2, somehow we had missed the parallel street to the east – Rua das Portas de Santo Antão. This pedestrianised street had its own character and was popular with the locals.

Ice Cream Doughnuts – caught the eye. I was trying to imagine what one might look like, we had to investigate. Sadly it was one or other, or both I suppose. Can Hector patent actual – Ice-Cream Doughnuts? 

Every day I on this trip I have put various permutations of Bier, Craft Beer, Pubs, Bars, Brewpubs, Microbreweries etc. into Google. There are recurring venues which I know will not be managed this time around. Yesterday, Steve and Hector independently discovered – Sputnik Craft Beer – possibly a – Brewpub. Today, Cerveja Canil suddenly appeared on Google Maps and it was in the downtown area where we were. Hector Holmes was on the case.

Two chaps manned the bar, at least one must have been a brewer. We engaged in Bier talk, such that when Marg caught up with me it was deemed I had better try one of their own. Sadly the NEIPA was off and was not coming back on until next week. I promised to to return later today. With thirty two taps, the most we have seen, there surely had to be something else worthwhile.

We wandered down to the waterfront for the last time and took time to admire the sandcastles and stacked-stones. Marg was impressed when I found the Tram 28 stop to wheech us back up the hill to our apartment.

Steve and Louise were on the same Metro on the magical green line to Intendente. Sputnik Craft Beer was around the corner to the north. There was only one Sputnik brew on the board, that was incidental, Tangeripa (21 Gallas) was available. This has been the best Bier found in Lisboa this week, Hector was up for another session.

Apart from snacks, Sputnik only sells Bier. Unlike Cerveja Lisboa last night, the serving Doris was not being forthcoming about alternatives. I asked if I could bring in soft drinks from outside, Doris wasn’t happy about this. Fortunately, Marg was content to sit for a moment with tap water and watch Steve and Hector indulge in this gloriously juicy 7.0% Tangerine NEIPA. Louise had something lesser.

I went out to get Marg some cola, there were plenty of Takeaway outlets nearby. I decided to check out the Chinese restaurant across the street. All About Noodles – looked appealing, I would moot this on my return. On Marg’s round, she too went across, it was written, we would dine there.

Meat, Noodles, Spicy – was my request. #604 – Massa a Lanzhou – (€6.90) was recommended, Louise followed Hector’s lead. We took our seats and waited, much longer than anticipated. I suppose they were also serving Takeaway customers.

I was more than happy with what arrived despite the fact I knew I would be hungry again in thirty minutes. I had a cunning plan if that was so.

The Green Line took us back down towards Canil. The Brewpub was way busier than this afternoon, it was girls behind the bar.

Marg had a Cocktail, how much? The Bier was – OK – why no more NEIPA?

Canil impressed, decent music at a sensible volume, the place had atmosphere and was easily the busiest venue we had visited this week. It was a Saturday. A pity I didn’t come across it sooner. Definitely a place to check out, and its central location is advantageous. However, 21 Gallas was by far the best source of Bier and our wildest night, well Hector’s anyway.

We walked through Baixa-Chiado Metro station and took the escalators up to Largo do Chiado for the final time. Home in minutes, except, Hector had one final indulgence.

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The Kebap shop on the corner of the street to our apartment has been tempting the Hector all week. It was now or never.

A week in Lisbon, excellent, and still places to visit. Why did nobody tell me about the castles at Sintra?

The venues visited today:

Confeitaria Nacional – Praça da Figueira, Praça Dom Pedro IV 18B, 1100-241 Lisboa

Cerveja Canil – Rua dos Douradores 133, 1100-204 Lisboa

Sputnik Craft Beer – Rua Andrade 41A, 1170-014 Lisboa

Pitha Kebab & Burger House – Calçada do Combro 18, 1200-114 Lisboa

back to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 6

Today’s excursions was to the Lisbon Sea-life Centre – Oceanário de Lisboa, a change from taking Marg to the zoo.

We walked down town using the tried and tested route. Cafe Nicola faces on to Praça  Dom Pedro IV, we have seen it mostly from the rear. Marg has wanted to visit this pukka restaurant since Day 1, today was the day. Marg had her Coffee in posher surroundings.

Having had no Curry for two days, more was overdue. Caxemira – Conzinha Indiana – was recommended by one of my own Curryspondents, a venue one would simply never stumble across. This was another Quality Curry, Portugal continues to impress on this front.

We took Bus 728 in the opposite direction today, northwards to the grand aquarium. This was clearly a modern commercial suburb of Lisbon, almost a New Town, we would see more afterwards. In the meantime, the giraffe had to be captured, bring on G-RAF 2020.

Fish are difficult subjects to photograph, they keep moving. The glass also makes things more difficult, reflections. Still, I managed a few which are worth posting. One can never have too many photos of Fish.

Steve and Louise caught up with us, they had taken a different route. What did they know that I didn’t?

Fish gave way to birds, who likes Penguins? The Sea Otters suddenly became the best part of the whole exhibition, Marg was enthralled. Hector will come home with tales of Bier and Curry, Marg, what she saw this afternoon.

In the distance lay Ponte Vasco da Gama, this bridge goes on a bit. There is also Torre Vasco da Gama – a tower, no sign of a statue. Steve and Louise went off to visit the tower despite my warning that it was closed, it was. I led Marg to the Vasco da Gama shopping centre, still no statue. Across the road from this is a conference centre, hundreds spilled out as we passed by.

Getting out of this area could be a challenge, fortunately there was a fleet of coaches to take many delegates away.

With Marg sated by her afternoon Coffee it was time to find the bus to take us part of the way back to Lisbon proper. There are two Breweries out here, Fábrica Musa, whose Musa da Bica Taproom was visited two nights back, and Dois Corvos, the latter reportedly opens early afternoon. Having found the right bus stop, it took around thirty minutes for our bus to show. Once more, Google Maps were telling us nonsense re the bus schedule, else it was in in chaos, possibly the latter.

It was not a surprise therefore to find Steve and Louise already ensconced when we reached Dois Corvos. A couple of decent Biers were had. Their Two Sides at 4.8% was in the style, sensible for late afternoon, but not Tangeripa (21 Gallas, Lisboa).

We could have stayed here longer, however, some required dinner. Somewhat bravely, we jumped on the first bus which came, it was headed to Alameda, where the Red and Green Metro lines cross. There are also about a dozen Curry Houses in this locale. The Green Metro line is proving to be particularly useful, a lot of decent Bier outlets lie along it. I suspect that on my next Lisboa visit, the area around Alameda may be the place to stay.

Also sprach Hector, the Lisboa expert after five days.

Steve and Louise went off to sample the Curry at Caxemira, they too were impressed. We went Portuguese, well sort of. Having wandered through the restaurant area south of Praça Dom Pedro IV, some with prices on their menus, too many without, we selected Leitaria A Camponeza. We wanted to sit indoors, not so warm this evening. This restaurant looked – bijou.

The menu was quite limited, – Kebap – was essentially what was on offer. I become frustrated too often in Hellas by the number of restaurants which are basically – Grill Houses. Can nobody cook any more? I asked if Vegetables would accompany, they assured us this was possible. Sauce? A – Pepper Sauce – was chosen from a list of three. What eventually came was a joke.

The chap serving was evidently new, hadn’t a clue, clumsy. We all have our first day at a new job. A frame had been built on each table from which to suspend the skewers so, hint, there’s no point placing glasses, bottles, anything else directly under the hooks, fumble.

The Kebabs were suspended, a plate of steamed Vegetables accompanied, then a bottle of a Tabasco variant was presented, my sauce. I had a mental image of a creamy sauce with black peppercorns as served at Hector’s House.

The meal was actually enjoyable, better than a Burger, but still in the same category as far as I am concerned. Grill, fine as a Starter.

Delirium Café was our next rendezvous point, a bar we had chanced upon on Day 1, metres from Allchiado where we had our first lunch, and right next to the eastern entrance to Baixa-Chiado Metro station. Steve and Louise were studying the Bier List when we arrived.

Over-priced, and a somewhat tired menu would sum up this trendy bar. The Craft Beer Bars offer so much more and as for Delirium selling traditional Bier at even higher prices, no way.

We had a relatively early night, certainly compared to last night, though it ended similarly with the escalator passage through the Metro station.

The Venues visited today:

Café Nicola – Praça Dom Pedro IV 24, 1100-200 Lisboa

Caxemira – Conzinha Indiana – Rua dos Condes de Monsanto 4, 1º Dt. º-1100 – Lisboa

Dois Corvos – Tap Room – Rua Cap. Leitão 94, 1950-052 Lisboa

Delirium Café Lisboa  –  Calçada Nova de São Francisco 2A, 1200-289 Lisboa

Leitaria A Camponeza  –  Rua dos Sapateiros 155, 1100-619 Lisboa

back to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 4

on to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 6

Today we were mobile and so covered a lot of kilometres. There was no Curry-Heute, we had Portuguese cuisine once again for lunch.

Restaurant – Adega Dantas – was directly below our apartment, open by noon and most importantly, sold the – Codfish Cakes – that we knew we had to try. Neither of us were prepared for the sheer size of the venue when we walked in, a – Tardis. The exterior had suggested a small cafe-restaurant, this was the full bhuna.

A couple of Fish Cakes are not going to fill a Hector, so the Prawn dish was ordered as a supplement. There had to be a Croquette, just the one. Marg stuck to her usual – Salad. Ah, we ordered four Codfish Cakes risking another mountain of food as on Day #1. Everything was clearly priced, the service was friendly, efficient, and boy did this place fill up. Arriving early was a good plan.

As Fish Cakes go, these were fine, I suspect Hector’s home-cooked Fish Cakes may be just as good. So what is the similar creation that has Cheese inside? Marg’s Salad was another monster meaning more of the remainder was coming my way. The Croquette did the job, that being enabling a photo to wind up Howard. QED. Then there was a Prawn or two…

Wow! …and *** Wow! I have had Prawns in Garlic Butter before before, but nothing like this. I like my food well Seasoned, but this was right on the cusp of excessive. These Prawns were simply glorious, the actual King Prawns themselves were probably the best I have ever had, and there was enough of them. Then the Salt and Garlic just took everything up a level, then another. Next time in Lisboa, I’ll be back. Tram 28 takes you to within metres of Adega Dantas.

We had to recharge our tickets purchased on arrival at the airport. Newsagent kiosks were not up for doing this, we were sent to the Metro. One chap pointed to his right suggesting a Metro station was nearby. The ones we knew were at the bottom of the hill, Rossio we had passed often. For reasons unfathomable, buying a new ticket was way easier than recharging. We needed a dedicated ticket kiosk, closed at both entrances. So instead of catching Tram 15E at Praça do Comércio, we walked in the downstream direction to Cais do Sodré which I took to be a transport hub.

With suitably invigorated tickets, we waited for the tram outside the metro terminus / train station / ferry port. The tram sped along taking us under Ponte 25 de Abril whose similarity to the Golden Gate Bridge (San Francisco) is not coincidental. Then the tram stopped, everyone got off except Johnny Foreigner & co. Whatever was preventing the tram from continuing remained unknown. People piled on to the bus behind, not a good idea. Once the crowd had dissipated I chose the moment to alight and board Bus 728 which had just pulled up behind us.

Santa Maria de Belém, still regarded as part of Lisboa, had the first extensive greenery we had seen. I took an instant liking to this parish, and yes, Curry is available here. Before visiting the main objective of the day, we had to take photos of the exterior of the monastery – Mosteiro dos Jerónimos – what a name!

We walked through Jardim de Vasco da Gama towards the coastline. There was a statue on a column in the distance, could it be? The Thai Pagoda had to be taken in. That Lisboa’s most famous monument is so far from the city centre puzzled. Built to commemorate 500 years since the passing of Henry the Navigator, I was again wondering why Vasco da Gama was not being commemorated to this extent, or even Magellan (oh, that’s another famous historical Portuguese figure I know). Padrão dos Descobrimentos – is the official name of this very impressive monument. We walked westwards towards the Belém Tower so as to get the best light for photographs. The construction of the harbour meant our route did not let us get any closer to the tower. Next time, I had already decided that coming back here on a future Lisbon trip would be mandatory, I was simply enjoying the atmosphere of the entire neighbourhood.

We took lots of photos, even getting the Ponte 25 de Abril in shot and Almada across the Tagus, Friday.

Cold drinks were required at a venue which claimed to be a Bierhaus but was no more than a flashy bar-restaurant. However on leaving, the light was perfect, the water between us and the monument permitted even better photos.

Back through the garden of Vasco da Gama, we reached the column, nope, not he. This was Afonso de Albuquerque.

Once more, I have no idea who he was, and at this time don’t care. Where is the statue of Vasco da Gama?

We took the bus back to Cais do Sodré and walked the few metres to the Time Out Market, as recommended by the Leicester couple from two nights ago.

Bier was available, but nothing to excite. Marg went to one outlet for coffee. A bit late in the day for Hector to be drinking coffee. Hector sourced a treat for Marg, to share.

The rear exit left us a one block walk to Ascensor da Bica. Finally, it was time to use this well planned device. Only idiots would walk up a hill that steep. A single ticket is about half the price of the day ticket which covers, Bus/Metro/Tram/Funicular. Integrated transport, just like Glasgow, not.

What I didn’t know until Steve told us this evening, Vasco da Gama was buried in the monastery. As I write this, I discover that Vasco da Gama is the second sculpture from the left on the east facing side of the monument. All my photos are from the sunlit western side. Hector, Belém is calling you back. In the morning the sun will be in a better place and then Curry can be had for lunch. Next trip.

Have tickets will travel. Tonight we planned to visit two Breweries on the eastern side of town and both on the magical Tram 28 route, yay! The route downhill was a bit of a roller-coaster, I see now why this is a famous route. We alighted high up on the other side and walked down to 8a Colina. The Brewery was through an archway, but no sign of a Taproom. The gatekeeper assured us the Taproom was on the other side of the hill. Up and over we went, a five minute walk, I warned Steve by text that the obvious destination was not the right one. As we approached the Taproom, so the view over the city impressed, unlike the photo, tripod required.

8a Graça (Oitava Colina) – to give the most accurate name I can find, has ten taps. The place was quiet which was surprising given how busy a nearby bar was. The Vila Berta NEIPA despite its wishy-washy appearance proved to be even better on tap than in bottles (The Beer Station, two nights ago). The Elisa Sour also lived up to the given description.

Steve and Louise caught up with us, Bier was had, time to move on. Returning to the tram stop, Steve realised a bus would also take us the short hop to 21 Gallas Brewpub. The stop was outside a Curry House, with the microbrewery across the street, what more does a Hector require?

Let’s start sensibly. The 6.0% Simcoe IPA looked the part but was not up to the high standard hoped for. Cue the Tangeripa! A 7.0% Tangerine NEIPA, this had exactly what is presently looked for, in the class of Cloudwater, Verdant et al. Despite the Bier being served far too cold, nothing was shifting the Hector.

Food was mooted, the serving Doris informed us the food was off. A Bier or two later food was restored. Food was ordered, Nachos. More Bier.

Needless to say when it was time to depart it really was time to go. The serving Doris had shown good humour all night, this was a place I would highly recommend. On a return trip to Lisboa it could become a case of head straight here, but if Tangeripa ain’t on, then what?

We headed south on the Green Metro line, Rossio, the stop we know best was missed, oops. Baixa-Chiado was next. The top of the stairs from the platform left us with a choice, left or right.

We had no idea where we were, I spotted escalators, up is better than not. How many sets? Upwards we went, and up again. This was going on forever, a deeper hole than any Praha Metro station and some of them are seriously deep.

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The event had to be recorded, photos of Marg and Louise, Marg told me to watch out, why? Oh, that’s why, the end of the escalator. Momentum took me backwards, falling on my arse was the safest way to kill it.

So where were we? Praça Luís de Camões, we recognised it immediately, five small blocks from our apartment, and more importantly, near enough the top of the hill! We had not spotted this Metro entrance over our four days due to the hoardings and the roadworks.

What a discovery. The five flights of stairs were a doddle after this. This was definitely the best day so far.

The venues visited today:

21 Gallas Brewpub Craft Beer  –  Rua Angelina Vidal 53A, 1170-122 Lisboa

8a Graça (Oitava Colina)  –  Rua Damasceno Monteiro 8A, 1170-112 Lisboa

Adega Dantas  –  Rua Mal. Saldanha 15, 1200-109 Lisboa

Time Out Market  –  Av. 24 de Julho 49, 1200-479 Lisboa

back to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 3

on to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 5

Nothing was likely to compete with yesterday’s wander around Castelo da Sao Jorge. Today, Hector conceived a more modest outing, walking the length of the grand boulevard which runs through the heart of Lisboa – Avenue da Liberdade. There had to be Curry before.

As declared yesterday, Curry-Heute was at Taste of Punjab. Whilst not in the truly outstanding category that was Taste of Pakistan, it was still way above the average conterminous European Curry House.

We were aware of people walking along the side street which houses our apartment, we had to check out what their destination was. En route, Marg took a liking to a particular flight of steps. The Adamastor (cf bar visited on Day #1) statue/monument had been erected at the periphery of a viewpoint. Sadly, the noon haze once again made photography superfluous.

Yesterday, Marg spotted a coffee shop that took her fancy. Hector obliged in terms of being able to return to the spot despite a limited knowledge of the city. Still, every coffee stop brings Bier o’clock that bit forward.

One could compare Avenue da Liberade to the Champs Elysees (Paris) or Park Lane (London), it’s that pukka. That Police were stood in numbers outside some jewellery shops makes one wonder what was in stock. Then there’s the hotels, just how much are people prepared to spend for a bed? Maybe they had elevators to take them to the fifth floor?

A statue stood proud at the top of the boulevard, this had to be Vasco da Gama, the man who pioneered the mass movement of Spices to Europe. Nope, it’s the Marquès de Pombal. Who? Hector doesn’t know and doesn’t care. The search continues.

There is no truth in the rumour that Hector only knows two historical Portuguese figures, the other being Eusebio. So when we passed the Pombal column and walked the length of Parque Eduardo VII, there was no attempt to find out more about either.

Marg headed over the horizon for a better look at the prison – Estabelecimento. I sat on a park bench and considered whether having stayed at the now not too distant Ibis would have been a better option. Next time perhaps,  I concluded that residing where we are is leading to encounters we would otherwise have missed.

I’m beginning to enjoy the statues.

Towards the bottom of Avenue da Liberade, I decided we had seen that stretch already and so headed a block west to walk back in parallel. This took us past Jardim Alfredo Keil ou da Praça da Alegria, another coffee stop except this time Hector tried the local home-made lemonade. It was still too hot for a Bier in the sun. There’s bitter, then there’s this, definitely worth a try. The Strongbow glass was a wind up, where was Hector’s – post Curry Cider?

I knew we were minutes from Praca da Figuera and IPA. Marg is sometimes surprised when we end up at a place she recognises. We found a spot under the busy market tent. A French couple sat beside us, an opperchancity for Marg to speak Deutsch. When abroad, speak in a foreign language, any will do. Eventually we found some French – mais les Français ne semblent jamais comprendre leur propre langue – but.

8a Colina is one of the local Craft Breweries, I had already tried two of their offerings in the last two days at Crafty Corner and The Beer Station. Served, somewhat annoyingly in plastic, this 6.0% dark gold, hazy IPA was fairly standard. It had hops and more importantly nothing nasty.

There was a timeout between the first Bier of the day and the second. Even walking down the five flights of stairs from the apartment has become depressing, it’s the knowledge of what awaits at the end of the night. Once again we made our way down the slope beside the rails that guide Ascensor da Bica.

Musa da Bica was a few metres from the bottom of the funicular. I remain unsure as to whether this was a taproom for the Musa Brewery to the north of the city,or a Brewery in its own right, I did see a full sack of Bamberg Malt.

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There was a decent range of Bier, many named with an amusing play on words, alas, the offerings were – nearly-Bier. The Bier was in the required style but lacked – the taste – which is sought. I liked the prices here and was hoping this would be a place to stay longer, but Crafty Corner was calling.

Steve and Louise were at Cerveteca Lisboa which was well up the hill. It was easier for Mohammed to roll down the mountain than Hector to levitate. They joined us in a surprisingly short period of time, so Cervetaca Lisboa must be near our apartment, and higher up, meaning a downhill walk home. One for later in the week.

Crafty Corner was only a few minutes away, and on the flat. We had a good time there on Sunday. Unfortunately, we had finished the wonderful Milkshake IPA Mango (Mag8, Sintra, Portugal) 7.0%, Hector turned to the dark side. – Javali Porter (Amo, Portugal) at 6.0%. That I have no tasting notes for the latter suggests I was having too good a time. Hector even had a Burger, needs must.

Tonight there was live music act, this evolved into an open-mike night. Some were better than others, Steve kept his powder dry. At least the music was delivered at a volume which did not spoil the night. I wish my favourite Glasgow pub would take note, in fact, every pub.

When the ladies faded, we called a night. Again the long walk up the hill, on Rua do Alecrim, a newbuild road built over the original streets, a steadier climb…until the five flights up to the apartment.  Where’s the Ibis?

The venues visited today:

Musa da Bica –  Calçada Salvador Correia de Sá 2A, 1200-399 Lisboa

Crafty Corner  –  Tv. Corpo Santo 15, 1200-182 Lisboa

back to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 2

on to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 4

Yonda lies da castle of my fadda

Today was Castelo de Sao Jorge Day, eventually. Marg had something resembling breakfast then we climbed down the flights of stairs to the outside world. Before castle business Hector had to find lunch, Curry is always a priority and expectations in Portugal are high.

Google Maps took us across to the eastern side of the downtown area where there is a cluster of Curry Houses. Fortunately this would also be on the slope up to the castle. Taste of Pakistan or Taste of Punjab? Google said the latter was closed today, Taste of Pakistan it would be.

I’ve been to some backstreet venues, just as well it was daylight. Hector chose well, the food was outstanding. A high standard had been set. Afterwards we chanced upon Taste of Punjab a few metres away, it was open. I assured Mein Host we would return tomorrow.

It was a case of up and more up thereafter. We passed a small restaurant that had local cuisine, one for the future possibly. The joy of at least posting the photo means I’ll find it again, as I’ll know what what I’m looking for, no name necessary. Noting the name may have been simpler.

The narrow streets were reminiscent of Italia, Hellas. The muriels (sic) showing former residents from a time past were evocative – The Immortals. Marg disappeared into a shop, I enjoyed the warmth, 17ºC and rising, in February, magic.

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Rather than go straight into the castle I led Marg beyond, I had already sensed that there was more to this hilltop, a Citadel. School kids were out in a playground, we heard them, but never saw them. Cafe 28, we had already aware of this tram, it passes our accommodation, later.

At the castle entrance, Marg tried to get Hector a discount for being a Senior Citizen, I had to point out that I’m not that old, yet. Have I mentioned that Marg retires this summer?

The castle was one of the finest I have ever visited. As with the ancient Egyptian and more recent Arab Medina, it was like peeling layers from an onion, there was yet another bit to explore inside, wonderful. Some of the climbs tested Hector’s intolerance of heights, why this Doris had to sit way out there, aaagh.

The views to the horizon were hazy, not great photography. Praco do Comercio was where we stood yesterday looking up to this very spot.

Encounters with animals make Marg’s day. The peacocks in the trees and the poseur on the ground made this all the more memorable.

We had worked up a thirst, this is when the earlier reconnaissance came into its own. Cafe 28, set up like tram interior. OK, maybe not as authentic as Prvni Pivni Tramway (Praha) but a novelty. We had ice cream too, well, we’re on holiday.

An elevator took us back to to the main drag. On Praca da Figuera, which appears to act as a bus terminus, the covered market was studied, IPA, not today, one for the future. A statue, Vasco da Gama?  No, not this one. Now we had blue skies, but the photos spoiled by those encamped on the dais. So it goes.

Back on Praco do Comercio we happened upon the Beer Museum, a great venue in terms of design, but Bier-wise, nothing Hector was desperate to come back for. At the water’s edge, Cais das Colunas, I imagined Cleopatra in her barge tying up here. Maybe there was a Venetian influence too. No activity, the port is no longer here.

Delaying the uphill walk home I led Marg west, knowing the way back, Ascensor da Bica if necessary. I had received a message telling me I had to visit the British Bar. This was but a few metres from Crafty Corner where we had spent half of last night. Both Marg and Hector ordered Cider. Cider follows Curry.

Ashtrays! Why? Disgusting!

The evening began with a return to The Beer Station which we had stumbled upon yesterday. There was Bier to be had, though the bottled selection impressed more than the draught. We got talking to a couple from Leicester, a few were tips received.

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Steve and Louise suggested a rendezvous at Duque Brewpub where we ended up last night. Google Maps and stairs, rubbish. All round the houses, every turn took us further away. There are times when dead reckoning is more sensible.

Nobody had eaten, food required. Walking down the stairs we came across the Beunos Aires restaurant, a charming venue.

The menu had nothing I wanted to eat, at prices I didn’t want to pay. The others agreed, we left, and bumped into the couple from Leicester.

O Adrianou was more basic, the food was simple, very satisfying.  Hector had Sardines, one can never have too much Fish.  Here also was the opperchancity to try the Super Bock of Nando’s fame in Portugal. Cold, yellow, fizzy, with a – kick.

So where next? Not back up the stairs, The Beer Station was calling us back.

Having found what I wanted, I was a Happy Hector. The Leicester couple popped their heads in to see if we were still here, they joined us.

Hector was indulged on departure – #lastmanout.

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… a superb night. except for the hills, and the five flights of stairs up to the apartment.

The venues visited today:

The Beer Station  –  Largo duque de Cadaval 17 Quiosque D, 1200-160 Lisboa

Duque Brewpub  –  Calçada do Duque 51, 1200-156 Lisboa

British Bar, Lda  –  Rua Bernardino Costa 52, 1200-019 Lisboa

28 Café  –  Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo 45, 1100-244 Lisboa

O Adrianou  –  Calçada do Carmo 39, 1200-090 Lisboa

Taste of Pakistan  –  Rua Sao Pedro Martir 37-B, 1100-555 Lisboa

back to –  Seven February Days in Lisboa 2020 – Day 1

on to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 3

Hector was up before the 03.45 alarm, such is the way of ridiculously early rises. Mr. O’Leary was taking Hector, Marg, Steve & Louise to Lisboa for a week. A week is a long time to spend in any city, four days is usually seen as enough. We were assured that there would be plenty to see and do.

There was a sprint to the departure gate at Edinburgh Airport, once boarded, we were told there would be an hour’s delay due to fog over Lisboa. It made for a pretty picture as we descended – Ponte Vasco da Gama. The airport arrival hall was confusing, could we really go in opposite directions? We could see those in the queue to get airside, it looked horrendous. Fortunately, despite having left the EU, our electronic passports let us through in minutes. To the metro, simples. Travelling in Lisboa is outlined – here.

A noon check-in to our apartment was arranged, or so I thought. On arrival at the agency we were told otherwise. Having paid in advance we were still hit with €28.00 city tax then a €9.00 locker fee. I will not be using – Feel’s Like Home again.

Free of luggage for the moment, it was time to get the holiday underway. The walk down Avenue da Liberdade instantly impressed, this was quite a boulevard. Behold a statue, Vasco da Gama, surely, nope. Continuing downhill, Hector always gets his bearings in a new place by heading towards the river, we entered Praça do Rossio. 19ºC, heavenly, photos at the fountain.

We wandered through the narrow streets beyond with restaurants aplenty, no prices on the menus. Arco da Rua Augusta came into view, it would be even more imposing from the – right – side. Praça do Comércio, Cais das Colunas, if this is Lisbon, I like it.

We stood at the waterfront looking back inland, Castelo de Sao Jorge loomed over the city. Marg, we’re going there tomorrow.

Marg was hungry, when the lady is hungry she has to be fed, Curry can wait. We left the obviously expensive venues behind and found Allchiado, a back street – Portuguese Restaurant. It was strange finding a – Portuguese – restaurant in Portugal, in India we never saw an – Indian Restaurant.

A Fish Wrap sounded like something local, Marg stuck with Salad. Marg wanted Bread, Bread was ordered, she tore in. The Salad was huge, it sat on the same bread used in the Wrap, too much Bread. The Fish Wrap was so filling, tasty, Hector cannot have too much Fish these days.

With bags collected it was time to locate the apartment. Google Maps took us up the hillside beside the funicular – Elevador da Glória. This was insane, we weren’t ticketed, had we bought a day ticket we would have been. Our apartment was metres off Rua do Loreto, yet Google Maps insisted we do a loop around the top of the other funicular – Ascensor da Bica. How many hills? How hot was it now? We found the apartment, five floors up, no lift. I will not be staying at – Santa Catarina’s Jewel over Tagus – apartment again.

The apartment was fine once we were in it. It was Hector who volunteered to go out and negotiate supplies. Five floors up, this is not going to get any easier.

After a – wld – it was time to hit the street. Cervejaria Artesanal Adamastor just happened to be next door, I never know how this happens.

The Bier list had two possibilities, this soon became one. Marg had a Coke, my second drink was white wine, that says a lot about the Bier choices.

Note the facial expressions for before and after.  If the prices here were representative of Lisboa, this would be an expensive week.

We walked down the route of Ascensor da Bica and walked the short distance thereafter to Crafty Corner. Here was a proper array of Bier and at better prices. Steve and Louise were summoned, the party began.

Eventually we reached – Milkshake IPA Mango (Mag8, Sintra, Portugal) at 7.0%, a perfect Bier. Food was ordered, the staff engaged, this was a pub. I knew we would be back here, but this was day one, what lies beyond?

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Around 21.00 it became sensible to leave, else I would still be there. An extra helpful barman suggested more venues. It was uphill all the way to Duque Brewpub until we reached the steps down. Yes, this venue is on a stairway.

The Bier may not have been as sensational but we were made welcome, an invitation to the brewing plant in the rear was granted, Bier discussed. Again, a place one would wish to return to.

Some were tired, Hector had his second wind, nae chance, home. Before negotiating the five flights of stairs, again, there were the chaps selling illegal substances both en route and at the corner of our street. They soon got the message, still, a good night of Bier & Food.

The venues visited today:

Allchiado – Rua Nova do Almada 66, 1200-289 Lisboa

Cervejaria Artesanal Adamastor – Rua Mal. Saldanha 13, 1200-069 Lisboa

Crafty Corner  –  Tv. Corpo Santo 15, 1200-182 Lisboa

Duque Brewpub  –  Calçada do Duque 51, 1200-156 Lisboa

on to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 2