Albany, Oregon – Day #10 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Herr Schneider – has become my morning greeting from Dr. Stan, and up to thrice as – good night. So it goes. The Good Doctor had us booked on train 5518 at 11.55 from Eugene to Albany. The journey time was fifty minutes, our shortest journey of the trip, and today’s train was scheduled to be a bus. We still had to check in early as is the Amtrak way, and had to manhandle our own bags to the bus, disgraceful.

It would still be another two hours before we could check in to the Super 8 Albany motel which is located on the edge of town, near the airport. Initially I thought the airport would be walkable from our hotel and so getting from there to downtown would not be an issue. Alas, not the case. I noted the number for Anytime Taxi posted on the outside of the window of the closed ticket hall,  a smart move.

There are three brewpubs in downtown Albany, 3 Sheets does not open on a Sunday, indeed, it would not re-open until 16.00 on Thursday. The nearest open venue to the station was No Rails Ale House, not a brewpub, but well regarded judging by other sources. The fifty taps offered multiple examples of the classic Bier styles.  We could easily have spent days in here.

In the UK one would expect to find quite a crowd developing by 13.00, No Rails Ale House was empty. Mein Host was about to pour his first pints of the day. The ColdFire (Eugene, Oregon) Brewpub was visited two days previously, their Bier impressed, time to try another. Citra Enlightenment at 5.3% and 45 IBU did not disappoint. Gold, with a chill haze only, this was sharp tasting, yet a gentle start to the day in terms of abv. The hops were full on, of course.

A few more customers drifted in, but not before the Hector had time to photograph the bar.

The next Bier up was another from Rogue Ales (Portland, Oregon). Hazelutely Choctabulous at 5.7% and 51 IBU looked as if it had been named to seduce the Hector. Nut and Chocolate flavours? A definite – Wow! – was noted. This Bier was exactly as described.

The barman was impressed by the purpose of our visit, bona fide Bier Travellers. He confirmed that 3 Sheets would remain closed during our stay, and suggested, as quite a few have, that we must visit Corvallis.

A taxi was ordered to take us out to the motel, as we prepared ourselves for departure, so Mein Host presented us with bottle opener / key rings labelled – No Rails Ale House. I wonder how many thousands of kilometres these will subsequently travel.  This was a wonderful bar, worth getting off the train in Albany just to visit this alone.

Brent took us to Super 8 Albany motel on the outskirts of the city. Knowing that we would require a lift back to town in a few minutes, we asked him to wait. He did, but told us that it was in our best interest to phone him again for a separate booking. Super 8 is part of cluster of hotels and drive through food outlets in the proximity of the airport. A free breakfast and heated swimming pool were advertised. On check in, nobody mentioned anything about the pool being heated. After yesterdays icy plunge in Eugene, maybes aye, maybes no. Room 223, to myself, luxury.

We were hungry, so perhaps we should have taken advantage of the nearby venues, but we were soon on our way back to downtown Albany. We only had two venues to visit: Calapooia Brewing Company and DeLuxe Brewing Co., both on the same street and minutes apart. Brent was sure that Calapooia would be serving food. He parked up outside the brewery and insisted on phoning them to make sure.

Calapooia was busy, so this is where the good people of Albany spend their Sunday afternoons. There was very much a pub atmosphere. A band were about to start in the far right hand corner, yee ha. Calapooia were reportedly open until 21.00, DeLuxe would close at 18.00. The plan was to eat here, get along the road, and maximise our time in both venues. It looked like  an early night.

We took a table mid-room to the left. Buffalo Wings fitted in with Hector’s strict self imposed diet. These were washed down with Riparian IPA at 6.5%. Amber, dry, the hops were not – in the face. I was hoping we would do better, later.

The band were playing both types of music: country and western. Dr. Stan was not giving much away, when does he ever? Hector was happy to move along the country road.

Thurston, who is called Thurston? Hector saw Thurston Moore twice last year, and even posted video footage of the man performing with Malcolm Mooney (CAN) at the Barbican on a certain medium.

If that wasn’t exciting enough, when I spotted a classic – box bridge – the heart skipped a beat. Why these fascinate, who knows? I once built a balsa wood bridge with a design out of my head, this is similar to what I created, some fifty years ago.

DeLuxe Brewing was easy to spot, if only we could find the entrance.

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Spartan does not begin to describe this place. With the brew plant, a parked vehicle, games tables and a bar, no wonder we found a few families ensconced when we walked in. A solitary  Doris was manning the show. With ten taps to choose from, the first Bier chose itself. Diabolic IPA at 6.3% with 60 IBU is dark gold, hazy, and looks chewy. The Bier was a bit hard on the palate, I suspected Simcoe hops, and as has been the way on this trip, the Bier had no astringency. Dr. Stan reliably informed me the hops are: Nougat, Cascade, and Chinook. Why did I guess?

One could not help but notice the sign for Howard’s Hopped Gin. Why is Howard haunting us? $34+ a bottle, aye right. A free sample was available. People are increasingly drinking Gin, a new fad to replace Alcopops? Hector has never tasted Gin before. It was sweet and one could taste the spirit, as for the hops…still waiting. Sorry, Howard, you would prefer a pint of GD.

The choice of Bier was not overwhelming, well we had seen a board with fifty earlier. It was time to give the palate a rest from the hop. Dark Danger at 7.8% with 100 IBU had to be tried. My first ever “CDA” – Cascadian Dark Ale, it was a muddy brown / cloudy amber, and dry as…

Why did McEwan’s Export (Scotland) come to mind? It was probably the malt coming though.

DeLuxe was emptying as closing time approached, eventually it was just us and Doris. She did us the honour permitting herself to be immortalised here.

I doubt if Hector has ever been last out of a pub this early.

We walked back along the freight railway to Calapooia, it was all happening here. The band had grown, two horn players I had not been aware of earlier. The music had changed, blues and jazz, the other two types of band music. Last night at Sam Bond’s Brewing (Eugene) I was impressed by the sight and sound of the five string electric Bass. Behold – Brian – and his custom six string Bass.

We took stools at a high table, Hector with his back to the band, Dr. Stan opposite. Bier was sorted. The “Pine Bender” Dry Hop Pale at 6.4% had the hop hit I was looking for. Another dry, amber ale, with a chill haze. As we were obviously staying on I will admit to having no idea how many of these were consumed until I gave the taste-buds a rinse in preparation for tomorrow, and turned to Cider. The Bright Cider (Two Towns Ciderhouse, Corvallis)  at 6.7% did the job.The female vocalist had finished her set, the music evolved. The band were now – playing – this was approaching electronic Prog Rock, Hector was both in his element and heading towards – the zone.

For inexplicable reasons, the drummer reminded me of Rod Stewart. Derek Zane, the guitarist was excellent however, it was Bill on harmonica who was leading us into the realm of what Hector seeks in – Musik. He was plugged in, but to what? Where were these wonderful sounds coming from?

In the meantime there was a charming couple sitting adjacent to us at our table.

I like your camera – was the ice breaker. Indeed, Hector always carries a proper compact camera, but musicians do have a habit of moving hence the blurring. The lady was German in origin, from Trier. Dr. Stan and Hector know Trier and its hinterland well having made many a trip to Traben-Trarbach. How long will it take for a Trier page to appear in Bier-Traveller? There comes a point when Hector’s Deutsch starts to flow, and so it was. Hector speaking Deutsch, at length, ganz normal.

Bis nächste Mal an der Porta Negre – was my parting shot. But that was much later. As the band put their gear away, so we honoured by being joined by some members. The main man was keen to know who these strangers were in town.

Saw you guys come up on a cab earlier, you’ve been here all day – was his address to Dr. Stan. I invited – Bill the harmonica – to join us, we chatted for ages. An oscillator is how his magical sounds were created. The conversation developed into a history of the USA, I recall him bringing – disease – into the conversation, whilst in keeping with my first Bier, I introduced – riparian. With specific reference to the Colorado, Hector taught the – law of the river – for many years. The trombone player also sat with us.

A chap from Richmond who said he was homeless spent time with us. Finally, Mein Host joined us, the (Irish) Gaelic brass stud on the bar was mentioned.

What an afternoon-evening. Is it like this every week?

It was after closing time, Hector was up for a late lock-in, nae chance. Brent was summoned, Brent arrived in good time and took us home. For Hector the night was not quite over.

Taco Bell was across from the Super 8. The front door was locked but there was still a line of drive through cars at the rear. Having attracted someone inside I asked the question of the moment:

How do I order without a car?

I’ll talk the manager.

Hector was served at the counter.

Meat & Spicy – was my request.

The serving chap spoke a complicated language involving many meats, – Burrito – I recognised. Beef XXL GSB ($4.79, no sales tax) – is what I left with, the music was still playing – KT Tunstall.

Back at Super 8, I managed to translate my order as – XXL Grill Stufft Burrito.

A pound of Mince, a gallon of Cheese, who could eat all this? It was truly disgusting. Do they not have Donner Kebab here?

The bar and brewpubs open today:

No Rails Ale House  –  117 SE 1st Ave #105, Albany, OR 97321

Calapooia Brewing Company140 NE Hill St, Albany, OR 97321

DeLuxe Brewing Company  –  JWQ2+MM Albany, OR 97321

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Eugene, Oregon – Day #9 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

With a room to myself for the first time on this trip, there were no middle of the night disturbances as a room-mate gets up for the necessaries. Hector awoke at sensible o’clock and took the plunge. Being used to swimming a kilometre, six days a week, one gets withdrawal symptoms. The Travelodge here in Eugene is one of two opperchancities in this trip.

I put a toe in the Pacific Ocean back in 2000, so I was expecting the worst. OK, the pool water has not come from the cold California Current, but may as well have. Once you’re in it’s fine. Aye right. My normal forty minutes was truncated. The pool was too small anyway to get into one’s stride and work up a sweat. It also rained on me, but how could I become any wetter? Dr. Stan emerged from his room to observe/inspect/marvel/despair. The head was shaken in the manner in which only Dr. Stan can manage – Ah, Herr Schneider.

With no nearby diner for Dr. Stan to have his grand breakfast, he joined me at Evergreen Indian Cuisine which was a twenty minute walk west from t’Travelodge. From there, Blair Boulevard would take us on a direct diagonal route to our first Brewery of the day – Ninkasi Brewing.

Dr. Stan fared better with the Buffet at Evergreen. Hector was not impressed by the a la carte offering. My fifth Curry of the trip and unfortunately I am reaching the conclusion that the bar has not been set high. Surely if Hector can source authentic Bier, then Desi Cuisine must be available somewhere?

Ninkasi Brewing occupies an extensive site. Having walked past a series of Brewery-type buildings we entered a surprisingly small Taproom with a seating area outside. At $4.50 for a 16oz glass, the Bier was the cheapest of the trip, so far. Initially we had to take a place at a standing table, soon we were in our preferred spot – at the bar.

Prismatic at 5.9% is a Juicy IPA, this is what we want. Full of flavour, dry and hoppy with a tangy finish. The featured hops: El Dorado, Simcoe, Centennial, and Citra. It was time to up the abv and the IBU, and this was only Bier #2 of the day. Total Domination at 6.7% and 81 IBU was again totally – in the style. This time the hops were: Summit, Amarillo, and Crystal.

As we worked our way through this, so stickers for the above were presented along with Maiden The Shade, a very respectable sample of which duly followed.

Maiden The Shade at 6.8% and 72 IBU has a magnificent range of hops: Summit, Centennial, Simcoe, Columbus, Crystal, Palisade, Amarillo, and Magnum. There was a slight sweetness in aftertaste, however, the hops were once again – in the face.

Shall we just cancel our tickets home? – I put to Dr. Stan. Eugene was simply getting better and better. Whose idea was it to come here?

Whose idea was it to leave Ninkasi?

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Hop Valley Brewing Co. was around the corner and across the railway tracks. We never heard the bell that always rings at level crossings. The five minute walk was well timed, we avoided a soaking.

The brewing plant was again substantial, we entered the taproom and took a high table at the far wall. With twenty taps to choose from, there was no difficulty in finding Bier in our preferred style and with seriously high – International Bitterness Units. My two choices were adjacent on the board.

Citrus Mistress IPA at 6.5% and 80 IBU features Munich malt, 4 unnamed hops.  Gold, clear, – dances on the tongue – was my unusual note. The body was impressive, and this Bier must count as one of the driest ever.

There was a lot going on here today and none of it was to do with the fact that my Williams Bros. (Alloa, Scotland) t-shirt blended in so well with the brewery logo. A very screechy guitar was being played over the sound system. When it gave way to a very familiar – dong! – I recognised the guitarist – Michael Karoli – of CAN, Hector’s favourite band of all time. Krautrock, here!

In the venues where music has been played it has tended to be British classic rock, not – Sweet Home Alabama / Hotel California – played endlessly as feared. Mother Sky (CAN – Soundtracks), what a treat.

The TVs were showing a female college athletics event in EugeneNCAA. The changeover in the final leg of the 100m relay caught the eye. Krystal Ellis (?) was in fourth at the final handover but still won. Wow! More Bier.

Alphadelic, a Northwest IPA at 6.7% and an even more impressive 90 IBU, has the required dryness but not the flavour of Citrus Mistress. Still, there was nought wrong with this Bier.

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Another five minute walk around the corner, and this time in pouring rain lies Oakshire Brewing Public House. The actual brewery lies a few blocks to the north. Once again the seats at the bar were occupied and so I chose at table to the rear of the room. With a choice from five IPAs, Citrafonix lost out.

Watershed IPA, and American IPA at 6.7% with 70 IBU is as gold and clear as lager, but with a hop hit. Sharp tasting, but no astringency – was noted. I keep waiting for the back of the throat to be attacked, it has not been a feature of the Bier enjoyed on this trip.

Whilst Dr. Stan was up at the bar getting our second Bier, so Hector engaged the young lady sitting at the end of our table in conversation. This was Elizabeth, a herb graduate working at – The Rogue Farm – in Buena Vista. As we learned at the Rogue Pearl Public House (Portland), Rogue Ales grow their own brewing ingredients. This at least guarantees the supply and stops third parties buying them up. There had to be photos. So engrossed were we that the formal photo of our second Bier was omitted. The Drop Bear IPA at 7.3%, with 76 IBU, was again gold and clear. Full bodied, there was a hint of syrup. So well bodied, and the Hops were once more to the fore.

Compared to the last two short walks, it was a good twenty five minutes back in the homeward direction, not aided by having to negotiate the junction at Coburg Road and Mill Street. Sam Bond’s Brewing was closed last night when we got here, tonight we were earlier.

A band was playing, fortunately not – yee-ha – music despite some of the attire. The room was long enough for Dr. Stan and Hector to sit far enough away, nearer the bar to hear, but still able to converse.

Crankshaft IPA at 6.6% and 68 IBU was the sensible choice. Instrumental Double IPA at 8.3% was a possible Bier on which to end. So good was the Crankshaft, we stuck with it. The hop flavours were delightfully complex. This was our last chance in Eugene to have the same Bier twice.

As I toured the premises, so I could not help notice the Bass, what a machine. When the band finished their set I engaged the bass player. He told me he bought this Bass some twenty years ago, a very fine instrument.

There had to be more music, again, mostly classic British rock. A Forest by The Cure (17 Seconds) was a highlight.

Over the next hour or so we seemed to be in conversation with everyone. The barmen were well onside, so photos of them, photos of the band, I believe Hector was – in the zone. What a sociable gathering.

The place was deserted by the time we left. As there is no photographic evidence, Hector could not have been last out.

Tomorrow we head downriver to Albany, a third of the way back to Portland. Salem was halfway, but there was something about the name which seemed off-putting. We have been asked more than once in the last couple of days why we are going to Albany. Why not? Maybe we are about to find out. Nearby, Corvallis keeps being mentioned, ah, there’s a Curry House there.

The Brewpubs and restaurant visited today:

Ninkasi Brewing Company – 155 Blair Blvd, Eugene, OR 97402

Hop Valley Brewing Co. –  990 W 1st Ave, Eugene, OR 97402

Oakshire Brewing –  207 Madison St, Eugene, OR 97402

Sam Bond’s Brewing – 540 E 8th Ave, Eugene, OR 97401

Evergreen Indian Cuisine – 906 W 7th Ave, Eugene, OR 97402

 

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Eugene, Oregon – Day #8 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Train 511 took us from Portland to Eugene, departing at 09.45, arriving at 12.20. This meant an early rise and also not being able to get rid of our bags until mid-afternoon. Strangely, we had to be at Amtrak Union Station (Portland) seriously early to check in our luggage. I suppose this creates jobs and saves the traveller having to negotiate high access railway carriages from low platforms. The – stool – one sees in old American movies prevails. With seats pre-allocated rather than reserved, everyone was escorted on to the train. Is this security, or just jobs for the boys?

The train crawled along compared to the European norm. The rolling stock was quaint. Thalys/ICE, this was not. I suppose most people drive, it would have been quicker and at the time of our choosing. This was not a trip where hiring a car made any sense.

Arriving at Eugene, our luggage was presented to us by a porter. The impression of small-town USA was most apparent, and this is a city. A straight line walk from the station took us past the old Oregon Electric Station, now a restaurant. This was not for us. In keeping with the – no Burgers, no Pizza – philosophy, Hector had a Greek-Indian venue in mind, Poppi’s Anatolia. Perhaps nobody has had the heart to tell the owners that Anatolia is actually a former name for what is now – Turkey.

As Hector was not prepared to tolerate Chicken Curry, the chosen alternative was Giros. Dr. Stan had Moussaka Stew served on Rice. Weird. There is an Indian restaurant proper in Eugene, tomorrow.

A few minutes south of Poppi’s is Falling Sky Brewing. We would take refuge with our luggage until check-in time. With a long day, hopefully, in front of us, we needed a sensible start, so the 7.3% – Juicy Miss Hoppins – ticked that box. Light gold with a slight haze, this 50 IBU IPA was exactly what the Hector was looking for. The hops were right on the button. Any thoughts of blocked sinuses and not being able to taste the Bier were left behind last night in Vancouver (Washington) at the Tap Union Freehouse.

With the other IPAs at silly abv for this time of day, Hector went to the dark side. The 5.8% Dreadnut Stout was thoroughly refreshing despite the body seeming thin after Miss Juicy Hoppins. One always hopes for a big blast of chocolate/coffee/nuts, it was not forthcoming from this Bier.

It just happens that we have arrived in the middle of – Eugene Beer Week.  Uncanny.

It was time to check in at t’Travelodge. After a week of sharing rooms with Dr. Stan, prices were such that in Eugene we (I) could afford separate. It felt as if I had stayed here previously, the classic motel room. There is a swimming pool available.  With the temperature cooler than it has been since our arrival in the USA, nobody was in it. Tomorrow, no matter what. Hector has been swimming a kilometre typically six days a week since last August. Unpacked, settled in there was a knock on the door, someone looking for – Herr Schneider.

Steelhead Brewery & McKenzie Brewing, or is it the other way around? We made the fifteen minute walk northwards through the gloom and damp to this well established venue. From what I can gather, the Steelhead premises are the original brewhouse, for McKenzie Brewing which is next door. Whatever, Steelhead Brewery sells McKenzie Bier and was a very busy venue.

Taking a high table as close to the bar as possible, it was waitress service. We tried to keep a straight face, if Mrs Wolowitch (Big Bang Theory) has a brunette clone, she was serving us … same face, same squeaky voice.  Nobody talks that way.

$4.95 for a Bier, the cheapest pricing of trip, so far. Twisted Meniscus IPA was Bier #1. At 6.8% and with a highly regarded 70 IBU, this Northwest IPA had Munich and Vienna Malts then NW Hops. Gold, with a slight haze, it was very quaffable, and thankfully not served too cold.

As Steelhead was as much a restaurant as a bar, food was ordered. Hector decided to have that well known Mexican-American crossover dish, the Chilli Dog. What an abomination. How much Cheese can one pour over one’s food? In terms of the Mexican element, order restored. This was as cold, wet and bland as I find Mexican food to be, last night was the exception that proved the rule.

Next up was Bombay Bomber APA at 6.2%. Munich Malts featured again and New World hops – Mt. Hood Hops. Munich Malts? I wonder if they actually mean Weyermann from Bamberg? There was a suitably dry aftertaste, however, the body was appreciably thinner compared to Twisted Meniscus.

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It was only a walk of four blocks, five minutes,  through residential property until we reached the industrial estate housing ColdFire Brewing Company. The bar was at the far end, past all the tanks. Tables lined the route, this was decidedly Spartan after Steelhead Brewing. They had a Bier which was totally – in the style. Cumulus Tropicalis at 6.5% was so hazy it looked milky. This was so easy on the palate, a joy to drink. One could easily have sat and had a session on this. In more salubrious surroundings we may have been tempted, but stick to the plan.

Spring IPA at 6.7% as the name suggests is a seasonal brew. With 65 IBU I was hoping for a lot more than this Bier delivered. The Cumulus Tropicalis was maybe just too good for the Spring IPA to follow. Cumulus Tropicalis may well confirm the standard we shall henceforth seek on this trip, juicy, and full on milkshake in appearance, citrus-fruity flavours.

We retraced our steps towards home. Sam Bond’s Brewing was the intended next stop, they were closed. According to Google they should still be open. Elk Horn Brewery, a taxidermist’s delight, was a block beyond t-Travelodge and still open. It was 22.45 when we arrived, Google had them closing at 23.00. We had time for one more Bier. Indeed they were about to close but despite this we were still offered a tab and food. It was basically kids who were staffing Elk Horn and perhaps too many of them, programmed to do their tasks robotically it appeared.

Maybe it’s down to drinking Komes – Baltic Porter (Polska) that I turn away from – the hop – at the end of the night. The Palate needs cleansed for more hops the next day. Hazelnut Wodka achieves the same end. How could I ignore the 6.0% Boggy Boon – Hazelnut and Chocolate Stout?

Thin in body, the flavours emerged as the Bier thankfully warmed. It was much cooler tonight, we did not need such cold Bier.

I took the time to photograph the stuffed animals on display. We were offered more Bier. How long – drinking up time – may have been was never established. It had been a long day, mission accomplished, tomorrow Hector goes swimming before Curry & Bier. I could get used to this life. Hang on, this is my life!

The Breweries, Brewpubs and restaurant visited today:

Falling Sky – 1334 Oak Alley, Eugene, OR 97401

Steelhead Brewery & McKenzie Brewing199 E 5th Ave #1, Eugene, OR 97401

ColdFire Brewing Company – 263 Mill St, Eugene, OR 97401

Elk Horn Brewery – 686 E Broadway, Eugene, OR 97401

Poppi’s Anatolia – 992 Willamette St, Eugene, OR 97401

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Vancouver, Washington – Day #7 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Dr. Stan had a route worked out to take us across the Columbia River for our day trip to Vancouver (Washington). Hector had a more complicated version involving changing from the tram to Bus 65 at Parkrose / Summer Transit Centre. This would take us to Fisher’s Landing Transit Centre well to the east of downtown Vancouver. There had to be Curry-Heute, and Chutneys Indian Restaurant was the only option. Fortunately, I was able to sell this as Hopworks Urban Brewery was this far out and we would miss it otherwise. It also meant Dr. Stan would once again join Hector for Curry.

The TriMet ticket worked wonders, one ticket for the whole day, MAX trams and buses. The Curry at Chutneys proved to be worthwhile, Hector’s – Red Indian Curry – may have been surpassed by the Goat Curry which Dr. Stan liberated from the Buffet. Thereafter it was all about getting up the hill to Hopworks.

Google suggested there was no imminent bus, we started walking. A young Doris was sat at a bus stop, what did she know? I doubt if she knew what planet she was on, totally useless. It took a good half hour walking up through featureless US suburbs.

The walk eventually gave the opperchancity to photograph the fake landscaping, the bus would have taken the same amount of time and gone by a more elaborate route.

One arrives at the given dot on the map, it’s amazing how long it can take to identify the building, how we initially missed this one, who knows.

After Curry comes Cider, today it was – Pineapple Cider – at a sensible 5.2%. An – Apple Cider with Pineapple – the barman warned me it was really – dry. Oh good – was the reply. Even at CAMRA Beer & Cider Festivals one struggles to get a truly dry Cider. This was suitably refreshing after the Curry and uphill walk. Meanwhile, Dr. Stan shook his head. I liked the notification re straws being discontinued.  I have never understood drinking through a straw, the liquid goes straight to the throat, bypassing the taste-buds.
Biertime: – Gear Up – at 6.2% (65 IBU) was chosen as the first Bier of the day. A New World style IPA, this was dry and suitably hoppy, though the body was regarded as – thin. On another day I would have tried the Ferocius, also at 6.2%. However, this – Citrus IPA – only had a 40 IBU.

Bus 37 runs half hourly from across the street. A forty five minute journey to downtown Vancouver? Maybe we did stop at every lamppost. Arriving downtown, I checked on our escape. There were only a few streets to choose from, buses back to Portland later tonight looked fine. I looked for interesting features of the town centre to photograph, ah well.

Trusty Brewing Co. – was more easily found. All Bier was advertised at $5.50, it was Happy Hour until 19.00 and so $4.50 was the going rate. There were only eight taps, but the range covered what we desired.

Love the Couve IPA at 7.6% started the show. The 65 IBU was the attraction here. Amber-gold, and slightly hazy, the hops were full on.

Sat at the bar, we were soon engaged in conversation with our barman. The next hour or so must rank as another highlight of the trip. Gary Paul – Mein Host – joined us, samples of more Bier came our way. The Weissbier at 6.0%, was pleasant enough, but did not not compete with what we already had. A pint of the XP DIPA – at 9.1% may well have been tried if we were staying over in Vancouver and this was the last Bier of the day. Very dangerous – was noted, one could do damage with this, very enjoyable. The – ESB – at 5.8%, followed, perhaps Hector was being too polite to keep making notes?

It was time for us to actually buy more Bier. Dark Marc at 8.1% at a whopping 80 IBU, is a black hoppy Bier, a absolute killer. Proof, if required, that one should not drink with one’s eyes.

Another brewer came in and was quickly introduced, he was from Brothers Cascadia Brewing in another cluster of breweries to the north of the city. Maybe we’ll have to come back and spend more time in Vancouver.
Inevitably, a certain Scottish craft brewery, whose name never appears in these pages, was mentioned. A story told to us by the Brewers at Thornbridge (Derbyshire, England) was related: their Jaipur is a shadow of its former self because the brewery which shall not be mentioned bought up the source of the required hops. The chaps acknowledged our story then elaborated upon it. Anheuser-Busch, yes them, have reportedly bought up hop fields but are not using them, in order to stop small breweries accessing the hops. They even bought over 10 Barrel Brewing (Portland) too, knowing that they were on to a good thing presumably. If this means the quality of Apocalypse is guaranteed then fine. However, too often corners are cut and the Bier becomes – cheapened/ruined.

We had to tear ourselves away, great Bier, great hospitality, Trusty Brewing will be remembered. Our plan for the rest of the day was tweaked in the light of local knowledge. It had just been extended, four more venues recommended, we would manage three.

Nearby – Loowit – was next. We had a look, stowed with weans. Well, weans over 21, no thanks.

In addition to what we had left to do, there were five more brewpubs in the north of the city we would get nowhere near today. It was early evening, both Hector and Dr. Stan were most certainly headed for – the zone.

The Old Ivy Brewery and Taproom was no more than a stagger from Trusty Brewing, not quite next door. A three barrel plant – was noted.

I was surprised to see a Belgian favourite on tap, however, we were here for the US hops. Numbers one and two on the board were what we sought. The IBU determined the order.

Hoppy Toppy at 6.3% is a Hoppy Red Ale with 65 IBU. This Ruby-Amber, hazy, mellow Bier features Toppenish Washington and Amarillos hops.

The only other customers were all outside on the patio. As always, we seek clean air to accompany our Bier drinking. The barman busied himself, in time he chatted. When the second Bier was ordered we were at ease with the world. The barman was onside for a photo.

Good Bier, though not outstanding.

Evergreen, named after this very street, at 6.1%, is an IPA with 55 IBU. Dark gold, the flavours were full on with the sense of a big body also. The better of the two sampled. Evergreen has Amarillo, Cascade, Nugget, and Simcoe hops.

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Tap Union Freehouse was a whole three blocks north. En route we passed the Taproom for Heathen Brewing which would was our intended last port of call. As the name suggests, Tap Union Freehouse is not a brewpub but a bar we were told we must visit by the chaps at Trusty Brewing. The policy here is that of being an independent bar which stocks Bier by breweries which have not been taken over by Big Brother.
Eighteen taps offered Bier which included, Old Speckled Hen, once a favourite English Ale before they lowered the abv. Also, Weihenstephaner from what claims to be the World’s oldest brewery in Freising on the edge of München (Bayern).

We were staying for one Bier here only. Home Sweet Home an IPA at 7.7% from Grains of Wrath (Camas, Washington) appealed most. It was getting later and so the higher abv was back on. This Bier was gold, hazy, had a decent body but also gave off a slight sweetness.

The most memorable part of this visit was the food. Hector ordered a Smoked Pork Taco. The full description of what followed made it on to Curry-Heute. Habanero – said Mein Host identifying the sauce I liberally poured over the Taco. Having suffered from nasal congestion for nearly a week, all was sorted. Hector’s sinuses were taught a lesson.

We went across the street to Heathen Brewing Feral Public House, the Taproom for Heathen Brewing in the north-eastern extremity of the town. What a range of Bier! Had we come here earlier it would have been difficult to leave. Taps eight through eleven were all tempting. With an air of sensibility still prevailing, Transcend IPA at 6.6% was chosen. Again the 55 IBU helped with the selection, however, one is starting to notice that NEIPA tends to have a lower IBU rating but can be far from sweet. Transcend is a light gold with full on hop flavours. There was definitely a blast – Citrus – in there, a good note to the end night on. Their – Gateway IPA – was noted.

Hector taking – selfies, it was certainly time to get us home, well back to Portland. Dr. Stan may have asked if Marg was coming to collect us. Google were showing the next bus out of here at 04.45. The reality was Bus 60 taking us across the Columbia River to Delta Park at 22.04 changing to the Yellow line – MAX. Simples. We passed PINTS, a Brewpub near Union Station which keeps showing up, soon. However, we’re off to Eugene tomorrow.

The following brewpubs, bars and restaurants were visited today:

Hopworks Urban Brewery  –  17707 SE Mill Plain Blvd, Vancouver, WA 98683

Trusty Brewing Co.  –  114 E Evergreen Blvd, Vancouver, WA 98660

Old Ivy Taproom  – 108 W Evergreen Blvd, Vancouver, WA 98660

Tap Union Freehouse  –  1300 Washington St STE 200, Vancouver, WA 98660

Heathen Brewing Feral Public House  –  1109 Washington St, Vancouver, WA 98660,

Chutneys Indian Restaurant and Grocery Store (3000 SE 164th Ave #100, Vancouver, WA 98683

Posted in Portland, Vancouver | Comments Off on Vancouver, Washington – Day #7 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Portland, Oregon – Day #6 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Instead of popping out for his ritual breakfast, Dr. Stan decided to join Hector for Curry, his first of the tour. Of the many venues, it was a matter of finding one open at lunchtime in the downtown area. Tandoor Indian Kitchen offered an inexpensive Buffet but no Lamb was included. It was better than the alternative US fayre. Hector is determined not to eat Burgers or Pizza on this trip. The citizens of this land must eat something else?

Thereafter it was time to be tourists. The tourist information office was in the bowels of a building at the top end of the main square. We had our own agenda and so were not looking for – the usual – information. TI-Doris had nothing to offer us in the way of Bier information.

Why else do people come to Portland?

We were told that the building at the bottom of the square was the court house and this was the oldest building west of the Mississippi. The mother-shop for Columbia Sportswear was a block or so away. Their Hastineau shoe range is the most comfortable Hector has ever worn. Columbia have stopped the line, Hector was after something similar. Even Dr. Stan was interested. The range on offer was pathetic, cheap and nasty, well not cheap. A rather neat top was spotted for Marg, a new range, not available in the UK yet. Rather than carry it around all day, we agreed I would return later.

Heading northwards towards Union Station we passed the Lan Su Chinese Garden. Approaching the station the final stretch was occupied by vagrants. In San Francisco’s Tenderloin neighbourhood where our hotel was located, we passed through the community of street dwellers on quite a few occasions, all African American. In Portland the vagrants were all of European origin.

Union Station stood out from every building in Portland, this had style. We had to confirm our train time for Friday. Checking in was recommended two hours before? Really? The lobby/ticket hall impressed. No vagrants permitted here.

Portland’s Steel Bridge is surely deserving of a grander name? Trains run along the lower deck, road traffic on top.

Steel Bridge didn’t open whilst we were in the vicinity, though a bridge further upstream did.

Steel Bridge crosses the Willamette River which joins the Columbia River on the northern limits of Portland. Here the Columbia forms the state border with Washington. At some 70km from the sea, I still find it strange to see such large ships this far inland. However, in 1969 I did sail up the Parana River, a tributary of the Rio de la Plata (Argentine), and a considerably further distance to Rosario.

We walked south along the left bank of the Willamette before cutting west and back to the square in the downtown area. Whilst Hector fetched the top from Columbia, Dr. Stan took himself to a well known coffee chain. I joined him thereafter for an Iced Coffee. How many needless calories can one add to a coffee, and why no crockery? Surely, if one is paying this much for a coffee to sit in, then they can at least provide a cup? Enough of this, it was Bier o’clock.

It was backup to Slabtown, 10 Barrel Brewing Co. was the first stop. Occupying the corner of the block, not as large as some venues we had already seen. We took seats at the bar, Stephanie served us, Boise Idaho – was displayed on her t-shirt. I wonder what happens there.

Cloudchaser at a mere 6.8%, a good session Bier strength to start the day. With Comet, a single hop IPA and 67 IBU this was a indeed a very fine start.

Apocalypse at the same abv followed, wtf? This West Coast IPA had the threshold IBU – 70. Slighlty hazy, and with a surprising hint of astringency, this Bier immediately hit the spot. The taste was – so sharp. We have a winner.

Tearing ourselves away, we crossed the street to Rogue, a familiar name, indeed the only known Portland Bier which Hector has previously recorded. Brutal IPA, 6.3% dry, hoppy, amber ale was first had at Birrifugio Travstevere (Roma, Italia). Whilst – The Source – is across the river at the Rogue Eastside Pub and Pilot Brewery, I had to have it given that I was finally in Portland.

It was time to get a bit silly. The range of Hop IPAs at progressive abv had to be sampled. 6 Hop IPA at 6.66% was near enough my preferred abv. This was even – drier – than the Brutal IPA.

Two and move on has been the model, except for the last port of call. I decided to cleanse the palate and sneak in something approaching a Kriek variant, I hoped. Sour can come close. The bottled Marionberry Sour at 6.5% was fit for purpose but not as sour as a quality Belgian Kriek.

Back across the street, it all became very confusing. Adjacent to 10 Barrel, Google had Brew Group PDX, on the ground it is called Bier Bike (Back Pedal Brewing Co.) Established in 2015, it was a bit of a fluke that we went in. Closing at 19.00 we made it, just. In addition to chatting to the barman, we watched their very own canning machine in action. Canned Bier offers a versatility for packing, storing and recycling compared to glass bottles. The sun is also less likely to get at the Bier.

Floka Rado at 5.4% is a hazy IPA featuring Eldorado hops. Light, hazy, floury – was noted.

Baseball caps I dislike despite owning a few, and have never understood the high fronted – Trucker Hats, anyway, six days into this trip and no t-shirts. Embroidered polo shirts do not appear to be de rigeur over here, yet the hats have embroidery.
Having discussed the canning machine, a sample of Summer Breeze came our way. At 5.9%, 24 IBU, this golden ale had a decent bite, however, I recorded it as – a nearly Bier.

The guys here were most amenable, I wish them well, they have lots of competition on their doorstep, but the Beer-Bike does mean they have their produce on display when chaps hire it for whatever.

It was Dr. Stan who suggested Kells Brewery next. This involved a walk of a few blocks to the west and across a highway. Had I known more about Kells in advance, I may not have been so willing.

Hector is in an Irish Bar, on the day I choose to wear – a tap. Inevitably, there was an alternatively signed tap on the wall. We’re in the States, nobody would recognise that Hector’s allegiance lay elsewhere.

The barman gave us samples. Kells IPA at 6.5% kicked things off. Gold, with a slight haze, I have no tasting notes. It was either nothing special, else I was distracted by the quantity of whisky on offer. I write – whisky – the bottle of Auchentoshan was distilled about 2km from Hector’s House. The near ubiquitous – Ballantine’s – could not be found on the shelf, the barman said he had better order another.  Almost every bar/restaurant on the planet has a bottle of Ballantine’s, also distilled not far from Hector’s House.

Tropical Hazy IPA at 6.8% was the next Bier. Featuring – Citrus and Guava – this bright orange, hazy IPA was totally – in the style – absolutely beautiful.

Good choice, Dr. Stan.

 

 

Dr. Stan ordered Irish Stew, always a waste of good ingredients, IMHO. Anna/Leanna regaled us with the story of how she tried to study in Scotland, Glasgow first, then St Andrews. Tried to, I conclude she was not successful. High standards in Scottish educational establishments then.

We were given a sample of something – Mango, Experimental – no abv was forthcoming –
We don’t have a name for it yet. Cloudy, orange, less fizzy and chewy – was noted. We’ll never know what it was.

Going home was the sensible thing to do, four breweries visited today, Hector even appears to have found a bus home, though why the LG thought we were one the other side of Couch Park baffles. Instead we retraced our steps, back to the cluster of breweries we had come from.

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Plocalypse (sic) – to the tune of – Metropolis (Motörhead) was becoming an earworm. There had to be more.

Straight into 10 Barrel, there was time for one, we had more. Two visits today, unless we find something even better, Hector will be back for even more.

The Brewpubs and restaurants visited today:

10 Barrel Brewing Portland  –  1411 NW Flanders St, Portland, OR 97209

BrewGroup PDX / Back Pedal Brewing Co.  –  1425 NW Flanders St, Portland, OR 97209

Rogue Pearl Public House  –  1339 NW Flanders St, Portland, OR 97209

Kells Brewery  –  210 NW 21st Ave, Portland, OR 97209

Tandoor Indian Kitchen  –  406 SW Oak St., Portland Oregon 97204

Posted in Portland | Comments Off on Portland, Oregon – Day #6 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Portland, Oregon – Day #5 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Farewell to San Francisco

Booked on the Alaska Airlines flight to Portland OR departing at 12.10 and due at PDX at 13.49, I was surprised to find that it was – Virgin – who were flying us. We were sat in seats 3A and 3B, up front, courtesy once more of Dr. Stan Airways. Hector’s role is that of Passepartout. We had originally looked at taking the train to Sacramento for a couple of days then working our way up though Oregon. On realising that would mean many daylight hours spent travelling every couple of days, we dismissed long train journeys as waste of VDT.  However, Portland to Seattle (Washington), our final stop, is manageable by train. TANSTAAFL – also comes to mind. After the next three nights in Portland we go south to Eugene then Albany for two nights each, back to Portland for two more, then northwards to Seattle. The hope is that when we arrive back in Portland a week today, we will know our way around.

On touchdown in Portland, I spotted an F-16 in a hangar, the first I have ever seen – in the flesh.  The arrivals hall was immense, what were buskers doing in here? So much for security.  Indeed, at San Francisco Airport we were allowed to place our hand luggage on the belt for scanning without a numpty telling us we had to. Columbia sportswear had an outlet in the arrivals hall, more on them soon, hopefully.

With a $5.00 day ticket purchased for the MAX, we headed for downtown Portland. Crossing the Steel Bridge was a novelty, photos required. We alighted at the correct stop for the AAE Portland Downtown Value Inn (415 South West Montgomery Street) but somehow ended up wandering around the full block before entering. Distances on a map are only fully appreciated with boots on the ground. Being near the university was my reasoning for the number of food stalls opposite the hotel. We wouldn’t starve, especially as – Curry – was on offer. Tomorrow.

The Green line took us up to the short distance to the north west of Portland and Slabtown where there is a cluster of microbreweries. This is where we planned to be for at least two of the next three days/nights. Hector has a cunning plan for Thursday which will take us across the state boundary.

We had to start somewhere, our first Oregon Bier was at Breakside Brewery – NW Slabtown. Breakside IPA at 6.3% 73 IBU was the obvious Bier to start. This amber West Coast IPA was dry, very dry, and had no astringency which one fears. I came to realise at this point that astringency in the rear of the throat has not been an issue, so far, in this trip. What do the brewers in the USA know that those in Polska do not? 70 IBU (Rowing Jack, Ale Browar, Polska) has set the standard for bitterness. Bier in this range is usually savoured.

The brewpub was remarkably busy for a late afternoon school day. With seating outside for those who needed to be there, the setting was less industrial compared to the equivalent venues in San Francisco, though already there was a sense of this area being transformed to residential. Who would want to live with half a dozen microbreweries on one’s doorstep?  And already, the prices looked better.

Next up was Thirst Trap at 6.1%, 69 IBU. A hazy IPA, once the gas settled there was a big grapefruit hit. This Bier was astonishing! In the style, with the flavours one dreams of. This was the first batch brewed of this – Seasonal Bier. It was so good, there was only one thing we could do, move on to the next venue.

Dr. Stan came up with the Lompoc Tavern. It was little more than a block away, the feeling of being in a residential area was very much to the fore. I was assured that once upon a time this was the site of Lompoc Brewing. With the brewery now off site, this should have pleased the upstairs neighbours. Not everyone enjoys the odour of brewer’s yeast.

I had to look up Pamplemousse, it’s a type of grapefruit. This should follow Breakside’s Thirst Trap quite nicely.

Pamplemousse Citra IPA at 6.2% proved to be a worthy Bier. Dark gold with a slight haze the grapefruit did indeed come across. With a 70 IBU this again was right up there on the scale of bitterness.

Having been bunged up nasally since I got off the ‘plane in San Francisco, the taste-buds have been struggling. Finally, there was a sign that the taste-buds were reawakening.
Dank – was a term first encountered at Pacific Brewing in San Francisco. It does not exactly sound appealing to a commentator from the moist, temperate west coast of Scotland. It may have been warmer here in Portland, however, the vegetation was comparable to that in the lowlands of the UK.

Enter the Dank, another IPA, this time at a lower 5.8%. Hazy, and getting closer to the New England style, the citrus came across, however the lower abv was reflected by the lack of body.

It was three and a bit blocks to Lucky Labrador Beer Hall. I had the address, I had the direction, could I find it? We were back in more industrial territory. There was a well lit up bar, this was not it. In we went to ask the punters, OK, across some derelict ground. Quimby, I have only ever seen this name at the start of a cartoon series. Was this named after the great man?

The Labrador Beet Hall was quite a place, huge. A few customers sat at one of the long bench tables to our left as we entered. We chose a more central table. There were tables everywhere, one wonders if this place ever gets full. The barman steered us towards WAG IPA at 6.8% which proved to be a decent choice. Orange-Gold in colour with a full haze, again this was approaching the New England style. Mosaic and Citra hops were mentioned possibly by Dr. Stan from another source.

We were well relaxed, this would be our last port of call today, our third. One brewery yesterday, three today, so much for four each day. OK, we had travelled a fair distance to get here. I studied the t-shirts, the quality did not justify the price. More WAG, this time there was a tangy taste. The hops were coming, this could be amazing, on any other day I would be sending texts home raving @WAG.

We’ve had some very good Bier today. Five days so far, as long as any sensible European Bier trip. We have only just begun, but are pacing ourselves well. Two things I have to mention: Hector was last out of Lucky Labrador, and I found a timely bus leaving from a couple of blocks away which took us home.

The brewpubs visited today:

Breakside Brewery – NW Slabtown  –  1570 NW 22nd Ave, Portland, OR 97210

Lompoc  Tavern  –  620 NW 23rd Ave, Portland, OR 97210

Lucky Labrador Beer HallQUIMBY 1945, NW Quimby St, Portland, OR 97209

Posted in Portland | Comments Off on Portland, Oregon – Day #5 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

San Francisco, California – Day #4 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

The daily ritual began with Curry at Punjab Kabab House which was decidedly – Mainstream – and served no better than competent Curry. I had hoped for so much more.

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Before returning to Adante Hotel to meet up with Dr. Stan, I noted some more Curry Houses for a future visit. Hector the relentless. I also passed Bartlett Hall, in daylight. The chances were we would have a Bier there later tonight. I also needed more cash and so went in search of a friendly cash machine.

Hector’s chosen bus to the Golden Gate Bridge took us through Presidio. The bridge became closer and closer, then further away. We baled at Fisherman’s Wharf and caught another bus to the Vista Point.

Presidio was nothing like I had imagined, the mental image of a military installation had been planted by movies. Would the Starfleet Academy be built here in the twenty third century? Instead, a leafy residential suburb is what we passed through, twice.

We jockeyed for position at the viewpoint then walked down to sea-level. Lots of photos, quite a sight.

Walking across towards Sausalito was dismissed, too far, but more importantly, too high. Instead we headed down through Crissy Field, a former airfield but now home to Fort Point Beer Company.

Where Google Maps let us down with the bus, it did guide us to the correct industrial unit. There was no sign of life. Going round the back it became apparent there was no taproom. A brewery worker gave us the bad news – the taproom – is in downtown San Francisco. A sample or two might have invigorated us.

The long walk through Crissy Field continued, a bus stop was located. Marg phoned just as we reached the bus terminus. Our bus would be a free service to very close to where we wished to go. This was the PresidiGo DOWNTOWN Shuttle via Fisherman’s Wharf to Crissy Field.

The streets leading to the Fort Point Ferry Building on Embarcadero, Jackson Square / Financial District had modern office buildings. One skyscraper had a lattice which I took to provide flexibility for earthquakes.

The taproom for Fort Point is a kiosk with outside seating.

Mosaic Park   4.7%

Pale Ale 19 IBU Cool, light and refreshing. Due to being nasally bunged, I could sense the Mosaic hops rather than taste them. This was a good starting point, a session Bier.

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Animal  7.4%

Tropical IPA 54 IBU Gold, with a haze, the body was there, dry tasting, full on hops – Vic’s Secret, Simcoe, Citrus. This is exactly what was being looked for.

Being late afternoon, it was decided we had done enough wandering. The quality of the Bier was such we felt like getting our feet under the table. The Mosaic Park was a decent starter, once we got into the Animal, there was no going back. So much for having two and moving on. We stayed put, so much for four breweries per day. The staff engaged us, they could tell we were serious about our Bier and were enjoying the fayre.When I went up to fetch my second round, it was on the house.  So it does happen.

Every so often, music wafted, solo sax. Was this being played in an adjacent unit? On hearing Birdland (Weather Report) Hector went off to investigate. Having explored the ferry terminal I was back out on Embarcadero, here was the source.

Between pieces we chatted, Wayne Shorter, Jan Garbarek, even Pastorius mentioned, this was a surprising addition to the pleasure of the afternoon.

The clock shows we left at 20.08, shortly before sunset. It was dark when we reached the far side of Chinatown. Brandy Ho’s – Hunan Food on Columbus Ave came highly recommended. We were not disappointed, the food was magnificent.

Thereafter it was back to Bartlett Hall which we had visited on the first two nights.

After more Goofy Boots, it was time to try Dark Bullit Porter. At a modest 9.5% this was definitely a goodnight Bier. An – Imperial Coffee Porter – this had chocolate and vanilla, yoffay!

We had come to the USA to chase the hops, however, Oregon is where we expect to find the best Bier, and Portland, Oregon, is where we are headed tomorrow.

The venues visited:

Fort Point Brewing Co.  – 

Brandy Ho’s – Hunan Food – 217 Columbus Ave, San Francisco, CA 94133, United States

Posted in San Francisco | Comments Off on San Francisco, California – Day #4 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

San Francisco, California – Day #3 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Dr. Stan may eventually become used to Hector’s – morning after – blogging. Curry-Heute at least must be kept up to date, Bier-Traveller is a much more complicated affair, so time consuming.

I came out of the hotel to find two fire engines across the street, but no fire. The fire brigade in San Francisco appear to just cruise around the streets instead of dossing, sorry, training all day, at the fire station.

I went a few blocks to Lahore Karahi for Sunday brunch whilst the good doctor took on bunkers no doubt at a local grill-cafe. The Curry disappointed, the name of the restaurant could have been – Spicy Shorva.

Dr. Stan was waiting for me in the lobby at the Adante Hotel, his bus timetables at the ready. He had a route worked out to Fisherman’s Wharf. When I announced that Bus 19 was leaving from three blocks west of us on Geary St. in a few minutes, he was taken aback. How did I know this? The bus wheeched us up over the hill we walked up yesterday, so much simpler.

Dr. Stan had – Chouder – in mind, Hector had eaten and was not inclined to do so again. Taylor St. had to be recorded.

I was becoming used to seeing the same street names in different parts of the city. Streets we had already walked along in the downtown areas started/ended out here.

We had already seen one end of the San Francisco cable-car, now we saw the other, and the queue. Why bother?

Alcatraz, it was a matter of how good a photo. The Golden Gate Bridge was in the hazy distance, tomorrow. Yesterday I saw a similarly coloured bridge looking down through Chinatown and took this to be it. Now I know.

The naval dockyard display was free to enter, yay! I had heard of – Liberty Ships – but had never seen one. Much larger and broader than I had imagined, but then the Americans launched their ships sideways.

I had never seen a US submarine before either. Henceforth I shall study every U-Boot in movies and spot the imposters.

It was Bier o’clock. We had looked at some bars along Beach St but stuck to the plan – Brewpubs.

San Francisco Brewing Co – is housed in a converted mill / chocolate factory. There was a lot of children around were they still hoping for chocolate? And as for the toilets, did I end up in the ladies? A crazy queuing system.

As has become a tradition which – The Faither – despises, there had to be a post Curry – Cider – to begin with. This went down a treat.

Marg phoned, she has yet to get used to the time difference and us just starting our fun when hers has ended. I wish Hollywood producers would come to realise this also, how many TV programmes have daylight shown in transatlantic phone-calls when it is oftentimes impossible?

Dr. Stan probably had better Bier here. Hector’s next choice was written – Curry Chef IPA. Not the best.

The Original Blend Cider (South City Ciderworks, San Bruno, CA, USA) 5.5%

Cold and refreshing, no nasty surprises, excellent.

Chef Curry IPA 7.0%. 60 IBU

IPA Despite the hops – Chinook, Cascade, and Columbus – this did not have the particular flavour one looks for.

We were at one end of Polk Street, our next port of call was directly up the hill, Russian Hill, to Woods Polk Station, back on the bus.

This was one of many taprooms for Woods Beer & Wine Co. Had the premises been more salubrious, who knows, we may have had another. The Crusoe IPA (7.9%) looked the part, it did not hit home. The – ham & cheese pastie – was more memorable than the Bier, it’s all in the seasoning.

At this point some might have considered going straight back to – Local Brewing – and continuing last night’s – IPA party. That was not our grand plan.

Bus 19 dropped us at 8th & Howard St., two blocks from Cellarmaker. Howard Street is becoming a familiar locus.

Cellarmaker has a small seating area. We were in the far corner beside the bar initially. As the place emptied so we grabbed a better table. Why close so early?

Hop Making Sense 5.6%. 45 IBU

Pale Ale Nelson, Mosaic, Simcoe, Amarillo and hops. The Bier was served so cold I could taste nothing. A waste.

Oils & Powder 6.1%. 47 IBU

IPA Citra, Mosaic, Amarillo, Citra, and Simcoe Hops. Despite having the same hops as  Septem 8th Day, my favourite Greek Bier, this did not have – it.

Two potentially great Biers, so what happened here?

Moving on, we had a couple of more nearby venues in mind. Sadly, we were being frustrated by early closing on Sunday evenings. Eventually we took a trolley bus to Toronado, a bar which is as near the Fillmore district as Hector is likely to get.

As we sat on our bar stools, something unusual occurred, Mein Host took my photo, just like that.  No introductions, was Hector a wanted hound? It was the the t-shirt which fascinated Mein Host, Hector was both here and possibly not.

Cash only was established very quickly. When I paid and put the change in my pocket, Dr. Stan was appalled. Apparently I must look as though I’m going to tip, even if I don’t right away. To that affect I noticed that the punters sitting at the bar had left their change on the bar in front of them. I’ll get used to this, but tipping, and every round?

Despite the Multi Taps, the choices were not exactly riveting. I can’t believe it’s not hazy (Allamont, Livermore, Ca) 6.0% is an gold, almost clear IPA. It was served too cold and so marred the flavour.

I decided to go to the dark side. The 7.0% Vanilla Porter (Heretic Brewing Co., USA) was suitably mellow, not too sweet, and not too cold. Success.

The decor was somewhat intense, beyond even a Belgian bar, with lots of well known brands on display. The point of our being here was to try Bier from breweries we had never heard of, and be – in the style.

With Mein Host tipped, all was well. Ah, the American sense of humour.

Tonight we gave Bartlett a miss. An early night.

The venues visited today:

San Francisco Brewing Co.3150 Polk St, San Francisco, CA 94109

Woods Polk Station2255 Polk St, San Francisco, CA 94109

Cellarmaker  –  1150 Howard St, San Francisco, CA 94103

Toronado  –  547 Haight St, San Francisco, CA 94117

Lahore Karahi (612 O’Farrell St, San Francisco, CA 94109

Back to Day #2

On to Day #4

Posted in San Francisco | Comments Off on San Francisco, California – Day #3 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

San Francisco, California – Day #2 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

We slept, despite not being able to open the window in what was quite a stuffy room when we arrived back at Adante Hotel last night. Two double beds fitted into our room, just. Dr. Stan went down to sample the inclusive Breakfast, it was reportedly Minimalist, he would need to find a Diner and have his customary morning feed. This permitted Hector to disappear for an hour to satisfy his craving other than for Bier. Chutney Indian Restaurant impressed.

Dr. Stan was waiting in the lobby, he had a suggestion. He wished to walk up Jones St. beside the hotel then head east. After one or two blocks he realised that if we turned east we would be giving away all of the energy expelled in getting as high as we had already reached, it’s a Physics thing. Dr. Stan claims to know about Physics. We kept going, Nob Hill, I remember this from the Spencer Tracy/ Clark Gable/ Jeanette Macdonald movie – San Francisco. I used to show the Earthquake sequence to my pupils, the special effects were excellent for the time, the destruction of infrastructure well portrayed.

When one climbs a hill one knows the top cannot be seen from the starting point, each block was becoming progressively steeper. There were words of encouragement from passers by. The Americans talk to everyone, including themselves, which I find disturbing. We reached a top and could see across to the north of the Peninsula. A Cathedral, Grants? Every way was now – down. Back to the original plan, it was Dr. Stan’s idea to walk up Nob Hill. Such was the heat and the amount of sweat excreted, I knew we needed a reward.

We headed east as per Dr. Stan’s plan, it was his idea.

Approaching Mason we could hear a Swing Band playing classics. On the TV this morning there was the news that a street in San Francisco was being renamed – Tony Bennett Way, we had stumbled across the ceremony, no sign of – The Man – himself.

A few blocks further and we were in China Town, we would have to eat here at some point, not now, not today. I was leading us northwards, a Multi-tap Pub was a few blocks away. China Town was markedly different from what I recall in New York, this was not simply eateries. Here were all the shops and services the Chinese community would require. The inevitable Gift Shops sold the usual crap, no Dragons, why no Dragons?

Google Maps took us with efficiency to the Rogue Wave Bar, there was scaffolding all along the block, closed, derelict. Tessa, is is too early to introduce Tessa? It’s never to soon to mention Tessa, would tell us later that the building had gone on fire. Holden Tours.

The San Francisco Brewing Co. lay a short bus ride to the north at Fisherman’s Wharf, Fort Point Beer Company lay beyond that in the Presidio, hang on, nothing open yet. We needed a new plan, we also needed a Bier, This was the hottest temperature I have seen in San Francisco this year since I started making my daily checks. We chanced a Bus, it took us back over the hill, but not by the steep route we had previously walked. Not even Steve McQueen would have done his stunts up there.

Howard St. is where we alighted, there had to be a photo. ThirstyBear Organic Brewing was the objective, the first of the known Brewpubs on our list. As with last night at Bartlett Hall, we sat at the Bar, more chance of engaging the Chaps working. Howard Street IPA (7.0%, 70 IBU) was the first Bier of the day. Unfiltered, Gold, Dry with a big body, this was a big hitter to start.

It was after 15.00, Marg would be going to bed soon, a phone-call was imminent. On cue, a goodnight call. Marg has yet to get to grips with the fact that as she heads for nocturnal repose, our day is just getting underway.

Dr. Stan had spotted some hand-pull fonts, and also the availability of a Maibock called Amber Ale (7.6%). Dr. Stan had it the Traditional way, I had the standard keg pumped version. I preferred the latter version of the Amber Ale brewed with almonds. Flavour-wise, it was a timely alternative to full on Hops.

We were undercharged, the Chap serving suggested the management could – let it go. We paid in full and tipped. Even then nobody checked what we had left. It is going to take time for Hector understand these goings on.

Google Maps had flagged up a Baseball game starting at 19.05. The AT&T stadium was in the same direction as we were heading. Baseball was on every TV in ThirstyBear except one showing a recording of today’s Sverige v Danmark match which I already knew finished 0 v 0. Ladies Baseball, there’s a hoot. The Pitcherette goes through all the same motions before delivery as her male counterpart, then throws underhand. Sinister, stupid to watch. Softball.

The 21st Amendment Brewery and Restaurant was buzzing with as many people outside as in. We nearly had a window table but the Photographer was distracted. Bar seats for two were attained. Behind were a group I dare not look around to see, hysterical girlies. I was not here to give – The Hector Stare. Fortunately they departed early in our stay.

Homefront IPA (6.1% 58 IBU) has Chinook and Citra Hops, plus Orange Peel. I could taste the Citra but the Bier was too cold to taste, Peel?

Baba O’Reilly (The Who) came over the sound system: all the music I have heard to date in the Bars of San Francisco has been British. No Freebird, Sweet Home Alabama and Hotel California here 24/7 as I feared.

Blood Orange Brew Free! Or Die (7.0%) was next. A West Coast IPA with blood Orange purée and citrusy dry hops. This was definitely more in the face.

The Chaps working behind the Bar were working flat out, I had to admire the choreography as they served the various Biers and Cocktails.

We walked past the Pacific Brewing Laboratory because it was named as Black Hammer Brewing above the door then realised this was the place. We took seat at the Bar and found a Chap originally from Barnsley sitting on my left, conversation ensued but was brief as he was on the point of leaving.

Dankmaster (7.4%. 24 IBU), what an off-putting name for a Bier, however, it featured Chinook and Mosaic Hops. Another gold offering, not hazy, but unfiltered, it lacked the required dryness but was not sweet even after the 70 IBU which had preceded it. This was a good staging point for something worthwhile to follow. Alas, the Bier we had set our minds on was not available, so we decided to take our Dollars elsewhere.

One thing that did amuse here, the screen showing the Bier Taps had an Untappd reference, and along the bottom recent purchases by those who subscribe to this were listed. Dr. Stan appeared under his chosen Bier name.

Local Brewery & Beer Bar was minutes away. On entering it was apparent that this was another no-frills establishment, reminiscent of the outlets along the Bermondsey Beer Mile (Southwark – London). The array of tanks impressed. We had fourteen Taps to chose from.

The Barman greeted us in the manner which I still find over friendly, the American way. Explaining that we were here for Hops, he offered hops, just in a glass, no liquid. That’s a line I may use again.

Neverclear (6.0%) was a decent starter, a New England IPA, hazy as the name suggested.

The Chap next to us, Steve engaged us in conversation. I asked if he had studied Marine Biology or Psychology as virtually all US people I met in Israel in the 1980s and 1990s appeared to do. Psychology and Business business was the answer. Steve had studied in London and took the opperchancity to tour Britain. He admitted to the insanity of climbing Arthur’s Seat (Edinburgh – Scotland) on the steep side with a backpack. Crazy, dangerous. He mentioned – Lagunitas – so that’s how you pronounce it:  Lagoo-neat-ass.

On the return from my first visit to the restrooms, I found Alejandro’s wallet so handed it to the Lady who had taken over behind the bar. She recognised Alejandro and was able to phone him to inform him that his wallet was here. Alejandro appeared within the hour, so no thanks then. If I lose my wallet, or worse, on this Trip, I’ll be beside myself.

The LG has not been behaving since I arrived. Yesterday it would not make outgoing calls. EE were useless, and did not phone back to check all was well. I solved the problem myself. Outgoing calls have to start – +44, not – 0044. My backup charger was not charging my phone today yet all the lights were suggesting it was. It was charging my camera. The Lady offered me a charger, I borrowed an Android cable, success.

Duboce IPA (6.9%) was up next. This was a West Coast IPA and much more like it, 7 of 10 on the bitterness scale used here. Doboce: Doo-bochay? – I asked. Doo-bose – apparently. Alexander Dumas and the revenge of The Shawshank Redemption then? Two Biers per Brewpub was the plan, we were considering staying for more, however as it happened, more came. Meet Tassa, sorry – Tessa. She had given us a San Francisco Beermap which would complement my reliance on Google Maps and Dr. Stan’s pile of paper. She suggested – Cellermaker – as our next stopoff, it was halfway back to Adante Hotel.

Meanwhile, a Schnitt of Drift the Bay (6.5%) was presented. This was beautiful, a gold haze, hoppy, and sat on palate so well. This was easily the best Bier so far with balanced hops, flavour, no astringency. Mosaic, Citra, and Simcoe Hops were here, the latter doing no damage as sometimes it can. CAN.

Tessa then admitted that this had come from a can – I had some leftover.

The can was shown, a Pint, just what is a US Pint?

Once we had paid the Bill, a top-up can appeared, this was very much appreciated. Great Bier, a great venue, great people. This is what one hears of, thanks.  Hands up, Hector was last to leave.

We walked north towards our hotel, somehow we found ourselves back in Bartlett Hall. There had to be more Goofy Boots (5.9%).

As good as I’ve had – said Dr. Stan.

An excellent nightcap.

The Brewpubs and Restaurant visited today:

ThirstyBear Organic Brewing – 3915, 661 Howard St, San Francisco, CA 94105

21st Amendment Brewery and Restaurant – 563 2nd St, San Francisco, CA 94107

Pacific Brewing Laboratory/ Black Hammer Brewing – 544 Bryant St, San Francisco, CA 94107

Local Brewery & Beer Bar / Local Brewing Co. – 69 Bluxome St, San Francisco, CA 94107

Bartlett Hall / Bartlett Brewing Co. – 242 O’Farrell St, San Francisco, CA 94102

Chutney Indian Restaurant511 Jones St, San Francisco, CA 94102

Back to Day #1

On to Day #3

Posted in San Francisco | Comments Off on San Francisco, California – Day #2 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

San Francisco, California – Day #1 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

It’s a long way to San Francisco from Manchester, at least British Airways took us here on schedule and our luggage came too. Today is Day 1 of Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour – USA, but actually Day 4 since we left Glasgow (Scotland) for Manchester and Huddersfield (England). It was around 20.00 local time when left Adante Hotel in search of Bier. The hotel was chosen for its location in the heart of the Peninsula, that it appears to be surrounded by Curry Cafes cannot be coincidental. Curry-Morgen.

We had spotted Bartlett Hall as we walked up Powell Street beside the Cable Car towards Union Square. It was not our the list of Microbreweries, it was a logical starting point. We were led to a table for two in the furthest corner of the dining area, past the brewing plant.

We would be happier at the Bar – I suggested. No problem, back we went, now we were part of the Bartlett Hall. The Bier List was provided plus a folder with Guest Bier. The House Bier is why we were here.

First up was Goofy Boots (5.9%) which features Mosaic and Enigma Hops. This was a fine start to the Trip. Now we have to get used to 14oz glasses and the American pricing and tipping system.

Pocket Sand IPA (6.7%) was up next and served in a smaller glass. This had Citra and Waimea Hops, and did not have the impact of Bier #1. Had we been out for longer, then more Goofy Boots would have been the norm, however, our Barman had informed us of the nearby Mikkeller Bar, this we had to try.

Passing even more Curry Houses, Hector was in his element, though the flight had taken its toll on the appetite. I hadn’t eaten in twelve hours, I also blame a stupid late night Pizza in Manchester many hours before.

Mikkeller, I have been to one in Barcelona, Dr. Stan informed me are Danish, a – Gypsy Brewery – who have their recipes brewed around the World. Seating was free, we were not asked for ID as every other customer was. There were no seats in the Bar area so we took the window bench seats, no table either.

Our first choice was Altamont Maui Waui (6.5%) but this was not on. Mikkeller SD Staff Magician (5.5%) was sensible. A New England style Pale Ale, this was another unfiltered offering. On delivering the Bier, our Waiter asked for a card to guarantee payment. Even though we were cash customers, my card had to be swiped.

This was 50cl?

There was nothing – Magic – about the Staff Magician, it was time for our last Bier-Today, Dr. Stan made his own choice, something with Coffee, for Hector – Mikkeller Mr. Burgundy – (7.5%). This was an IPA brewed with Blackcurrants, something – Sour – was hoped for. Our Waiter sporting the Cantillon Logo on the rear of his t shirt had told us that the Bar downstairs sells Sour Bier.

Mr. Burgundy was not Cassis, drinkable, no more. Still, way better than Kaffestout (6.0%) which was Dr. Stan’s selection.

Shattered, hungry, I cannot get though to Marg on the phone, no outgoing calls. EE were useless, and I had to wait up an extra hour until they were open UK time. Marg managed to get though to me, strange.

Tomorrow will start with Curry, then we might go and see some of San Francisco and the Microbreweries we already have mapped.

… and so to Day 2

The Hotel, Bar and Microbrewery visited today:

Adante Hotel – 610 Geary St, San Francisco, CA 94102

Bartlett Hall / Bartlett Brewing Co. – 242 O’Farrell St, San Francisco, CA 94102

Mikkeller Bar – 34 Mason St, San Francisco, CA 94102

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