Eugene, Oregon – Day #8 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 8, 2018 by Hector

Train 511 took us from Portland to Eugene, departing at 09.45, arriving at 12.20. This meant an early rise and also not being able to get rid of our bags until mid-afternoon. Strangely, we had to be at Amtrak Union Station (Portland) seriously early to check in our luggage. I suppose this creates jobs and saves the traveller having to negotiate high access railway carriages from low platforms. The – stool – one sees in old American movies prevails. With seats pre-allocated rather than reserved, everyone was escorted on to the train. Is this security, or just jobs for the boys?

The train crawled along compared to the European norm. The rolling stock was quaint. Thalys/ICE, this was not. I suppose most people drive, it would have been quicker and at the time of our choosing. This was not a trip where hiring a car made any sense.

Arriving at Eugene, our luggage was presented to us by a porter. The impression of small-town USA was most apparent, and this is a city. A straight line walk from the station took us past the old Oregon Electric Station, now a restaurant. This was not for us. In keeping with the – no Burgers, no Pizza – philosophy, Hector had a Greek-Indian venue in mind, Poppi’s Anatolia. Perhaps nobody has had the heart to tell the owners that Anatolia is actually a former name for what is now – Turkey.

As Hector was not prepared to tolerate Chicken Curry, the chosen alternative was Giros. Dr. Stan had Moussaka Stew served on Rice. Weird. There is an Indian restaurant proper in Eugene, tomorrow.

A few minutes south of Poppi’s is Falling Sky Brewing. We would take refuge with our luggage until check-in time. With a long day, hopefully, in front of us, we needed a sensible start, so the 7.3% – Juicy Miss Hoppins – ticked that box. Light gold with a slight haze, this 50 IBU IPA was exactly what the Hector was looking for. The hops were right on the button. Any thoughts of blocked sinuses and not being able to taste the Bier were left behind last night in Vancouver (Washington) at the Tap Union Freehouse.

With the other IPAs at silly abv for this time of day, Hector went to the dark side. The 5.8% Dreadnut Stout was thoroughly refreshing despite the body seeming thin after Miss Juicy Hoppins. One always hopes for a big blast of chocolate/coffee/nuts, it was not forthcoming from this Bier.

It just happens that we have arrived in the middle of – Eugene Beer Week.  Uncanny.

It was time to check in at t’Travelodge. After a week of sharing rooms with Dr. Stan, prices were such that in Eugene we (I) could afford separate. It felt as if I had stayed here previously, the classic motel room. There is a swimming pool available.  With the temperature cooler than it has been since our arrival in the USA, nobody was in it. Tomorrow, no matter what. Hector has been swimming a kilometre typically six days a week since last August. Unpacked, settled in there was a knock on the door, someone looking for – Herr Schneider.

Steelhead Brewery & McKenzie Brewing, or is it the other way around? We made the fifteen minute walk northwards through the gloom and damp to this well established venue. From what I can gather, the Steelhead premises are the original brewhouse, for McKenzie Brewing which is next door. Whatever, Steelhead Brewery sells McKenzie Bier and was a very busy venue.

Taking a high table as close to the bar as possible, it was waitress service. We tried to keep a straight face, if Mrs Wolowitch (Big Bang Theory) has a brunette clone, she was serving us … same face, same squeaky voice.  Nobody talks that way.

$4.95 for a Bier, the cheapest pricing of trip, so far. Twisted Meniscus IPA was Bier #1. At 6.8% and with a highly regarded 70 IBU, this Northwest IPA had Munich and Vienna Malts then NW Hops. Gold, with a slight haze, it was very quaffable, and thankfully not served too cold.

As Steelhead was as much a restaurant as a bar, food was ordered. Hector decided to have that well known Mexican-American crossover dish, the Chilli Dog. What an abomination. How much Cheese can one pour over one’s food? In terms of the Mexican element, order restored. This was as cold, wet and bland as I find Mexican food to be, last night was the exception that proved the rule.

Next up was Bombay Bomber APA at 6.2%. Munich Malts featured again and New World hops – Mt. Hood Hops. Munich Malts? I wonder if they actually mean Weyermann from Bamberg? There was a suitably dry aftertaste, however, the body was appreciably thinner compared to Twisted Meniscus.

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It was only a walk of four blocks, five minutes,  through residential property until we reached the industrial estate housing ColdFire Brewing Company. The bar was at the far end, past all the tanks. Tables lined the route, this was decidedly Spartan after Steelhead Brewing. They had a Bier which was totally – in the style. Cumulus Tropicalis at 6.5% was so hazy it looked milky. This was so easy on the palate, a joy to drink. One could easily have sat and had a session on this. In more salubrious surroundings we may have been tempted, but stick to the plan.

Spring IPA at 6.7% as the name suggests is a seasonal brew. With 65 IBU I was hoping for a lot more than this Bier delivered. The Cumulus Tropicalis was maybe just too good for the Spring IPA to follow. Cumulus Tropicalis may well confirm the standard we shall henceforth seek on this trip, juicy, and full on milkshake in appearance, citrus-fruity flavours.

We retraced our steps towards home. Sam Bond’s Brewing was the intended next stop, they were closed. According to Google they should still be open. Elk Horn Brewery, a taxidermist’s delight, was a block beyond t-Travelodge and still open. It was 22.45 when we arrived, Google had them closing at 23.00. We had time for one more Bier. Indeed they were about to close but despite this we were still offered a tab and food. It was basically kids who were staffing Elk Horn and perhaps too many of them, programmed to do their tasks robotically it appeared.

Maybe it’s down to drinking Komes – Baltic Porter (Polska) that I turn away from – the hop – at the end of the night. The Palate needs cleansed for more hops the next day. Hazelnut Wodka achieves the same end. How could I ignore the 6.0% Boggy Boon – Hazelnut and Chocolate Stout?

Thin in body, the flavours emerged as the Bier thankfully warmed. It was much cooler tonight, we did not need such cold Bier.

I took the time to photograph the stuffed animals on display. We were offered more Bier. How long – drinking up time – may have been was never established. It had been a long day, mission accomplished, tomorrow Hector goes swimming before Curry & Bier. I could get used to this life. Hang on, this is my life!

The Breweries, Brewpubs and restaurant visited today:

Falling Sky – 1334 Oak Alley, Eugene, OR 97401

Steelhead Brewery & McKenzie Brewing – 199 E 5th Ave #1, Eugene, OR 97401

ColdFire Brewing Company – 263 Mill St, Eugene, OR 97401

Elk Horn Brewery – 686 E Broadway, Eugene, OR 97401

Poppi’s Anatolia – 992 Willamette St, Eugene, OR 97401

Posted in Eugene, Portland | Comments Off on Eugene, Oregon – Day #8 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Vancouver, Washington – Day #7 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 7, 2018 by Hector

Dr. Stan had a route worked out to take us across the Columbia River for our day trip to Vancouver (Washington). Hector had a more complicated version involving changing from the tram to Bus 65 at Parkrose / Summer Transit Centre. This would take us to Fisher’s Landing Transit Centre well to the east of downtown Vancouver. There had to be Curry-Heute, and Chutneys Indian Restaurant was the only option. Fortunately, I was able to sell this as Hopworks Urban Brewery was this far out and we would miss it otherwise. It also meant Dr. Stan would once again join Hector for Curry.

The TriMet ticket worked wonders, one ticket for the whole day, MAX trams and buses. The Curry at Chutneys proved to be worthwhile, Hector’s – Red Indian Curry – may have been surpassed by the Goat Curry which Dr. Stan liberated from the Buffet. Thereafter it was all about getting up the hill to Hopworks.

Google suggested there was no imminent bus, we started walking. A young Doris was sat at a bus stop, what did she know? I doubt if she knew what planet she was on, totally useless. It took a good half hour walking up through featureless US suburbs.

The walk eventually gave the opperchancity to photograph the fake landscaping, the bus would have taken the same amount of time and gone by a more elaborate route.

One arrives at the given dot on the map, it’s amazing how long it can take to identify the building, how we initially missed this one, who knows.

After Curry comes Cider, today it was – Pineapple Cider – at a sensible 5.2%. An – Apple Cider with Pineapple – the barman warned me it was really – dry. Oh good – was the reply. Even at CAMRA Beer & Cider Festivals one struggles to get a truly dry Cider. This was suitably refreshing after the Curry and uphill walk. Meanwhile, Dr. Stan shook his head. I liked the notification re straws being discontinued.  I have never understood drinking through a straw, the liquid goes straight to the throat, bypassing the taste-buds.
Biertime: – Gear Up – at 6.2% (65 IBU) was chosen as the first Bier of the day. A New World style IPA, this was dry and suitably hoppy, though the body was regarded as – thin. On another day I would have tried the Ferocius, also at 6.2%. However, this – Citrus IPA – only had a 40 IBU.

Bus 37 runs half hourly from across the street. A forty five minute journey to downtown Vancouver? Maybe we did stop at every lamppost. Arriving downtown, I checked on our escape. There were only a few streets to choose from, buses back to Portland later tonight looked fine. I looked for interesting features of the town centre to photograph, ah well.

Trusty Brewing Co. – was more easily found. All Bier was advertised at $5.50, it was Happy Hour until 19.00 and so $4.50 was the going rate. There were only eight taps, but the range covered what we desired.

Love the Couve IPA at 7.6% started the show. The 65 IBU was the attraction here. Amber-gold, and slightly hazy, the hops were full on.

Sat at the bar, we were soon engaged in conversation with our barman. The next hour or so must rank as another highlight of the trip. Gary Paul – Mein Host – joined us, samples of more Bier came our way. The Weissbier at 6.0%, was pleasant enough, but did not not compete with what we already had. A pint of the XP DIPA – at 9.1% may well have been tried if we were staying over in Vancouver and this was the last Bier of the day. Very dangerous – was noted, one could do damage with this, very enjoyable. The – ESB – at 5.8%, followed, perhaps Hector was being too polite to keep making notes?

It was time for us to actually buy more Bier. Dark Marc at 8.1% at a whopping 80 IBU, is a black hoppy Bier, a absolute killer. Proof, if required, that one should not drink with one’s eyes.

Another brewer came in and was quickly introduced, he was from Brothers Cascadia Brewing in another cluster of breweries to the north of the city. Maybe we’ll have to come back and spend more time in Vancouver.
Inevitably, a certain Scottish craft brewery, whose name never appears in these pages, was mentioned. A story told to us by the Brewers at Thornbridge (Derbyshire, England) was related: their Jaipur is a shadow of its former self because the brewery which shall not be mentioned bought up the source of the required hops. The chaps acknowledged our story then elaborated upon it. Anheuser-Busch, yes them, have reportedly bought up hop fields but are not using them, in order to stop small breweries accessing the hops. They even bought over 10 Barrel Brewing (Portland) too, knowing that they were on to a good thing presumably. If this means the quality of Apocalypse is guaranteed then fine. However, too often corners are cut and the Bier becomes – cheapened/ruined.

We had to tear ourselves away, great Bier, great hospitality, Trusty Brewing will be remembered. Our plan for the rest of the day was tweaked in the light of local knowledge. It had just been extended, four more venues recommended, we would manage three.

Nearby – Loowit – was next. We had a look, stowed with weans. Well, weans over 21, no thanks.

In addition to what we had left to do, there were five more brewpubs in the north of the city we would get nowhere near today. It was early evening, both Hector and Dr. Stan were most certainly headed for – the zone.

The Old Ivy Brewery and Taproom was no more than a stagger from Trusty Brewing, not quite next door. A three barrel plant – was noted.

I was surprised to see a Belgian favourite on tap, however, we were here for the US hops. Numbers one and two on the board were what we sought. The IBU determined the order.

Hoppy Toppy at 6.3% is a Hoppy Red Ale with 65 IBU. This Ruby-Amber, hazy, mellow Bier features Toppenish Washington and Amarillos hops.

The only other customers were all outside on the patio. As always, we seek clean air to accompany our Bier drinking. The barman busied himself, in time he chatted. When the second Bier was ordered we were at ease with the world. The barman was onside for a photo.

Good Bier, though not outstanding.

Evergreen, named after this very street, at 6.1%, is an IPA with 55 IBU. Dark gold, the flavours were full on with the sense of a big body also. The better of the two sampled. Evergreen has Amarillo, Cascade, Nugget, and Simcoe hops.

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Tap Union Freehouse was a whole three blocks north. En route we passed the Taproom for Heathen Brewing which would was our intended last port of call. As the name suggests, Tap Union Freehouse is not a brewpub but a bar we were told we must visit by the chaps at Trusty Brewing. The policy here is that of being an independent bar which stocks Bier by breweries which have not been taken over by Big Brother.
Eighteen taps offered Bier which included, Old Speckled Hen, once a favourite English Ale before they lowered the abv. Also, Weihenstephaner from what claims to be the World’s oldest brewery in Freising on the edge of München (Bayern).

We were staying for one Bier here only. Home Sweet Home an IPA at 7.7% from Grains of Wrath (Camas, Washington) appealed most. It was getting later and so the higher abv was back on. This Bier was gold, hazy, had a decent body but also gave off a slight sweetness.

The most memorable part of this visit was the food. Hector ordered a Smoked Pork Taco. The full description of what followed made it on to Curry-Heute. Habanero – said Mein Host identifying the sauce I liberally poured over the Taco. Having suffered from nasal congestion for nearly a week, all was sorted. Hector’s sinuses were taught a lesson.

We went across the street to Heathen Brewing Feral Public House, the Taproom for Heathen Brewing in the north-eastern extremity of the town. What a range of Bier! Had we come here earlier it would have been difficult to leave. Taps eight through eleven were all tempting. With an air of sensibility still prevailing, Transcend IPA at 6.6% was chosen. Again the 55 IBU helped with the selection, however, one is starting to notice that NEIPA tends to have a lower IBU rating but can be far from sweet. Transcend is a light gold with full on hop flavours. There was definitely a blast – Citrus – in there, a good note to the end night on. Their – Gateway IPA – was noted.

Hector taking – selfies, it was certainly time to get us home, well back to Portland. Dr. Stan may have asked if Marg was coming to collect us. Google were showing the next bus out of here at 04.45. The reality was Bus 60 taking us across the Columbia River to Delta Park at 22.04 changing to the Yellow line – MAX. Simples. We passed PINTS, a Brewpub near Union Station which keeps showing up, soon. However, we’re off to Eugene tomorrow.

The following brewpubs, bars and restaurants were visited today:

Hopworks Urban Brewery  –  17707 SE Mill Plain Blvd, Vancouver, WA 98683

Trusty Brewing Co.  –  114 E Evergreen Blvd, Vancouver, WA 98660

Old Ivy Taproom  – 108 W Evergreen Blvd, Vancouver, WA 98660

Tap Union Freehouse  –  1300 Washington St STE 200, Vancouver, WA 98660

Heathen Brewing Feral Public House  –  1109 Washington St, Vancouver, WA 98660,

Chutneys Indian Restaurant and Grocery Store (3000 SE 164th Ave #100, Vancouver, WA 98683

Posted in Vancouver, Portland | Comments Off on Vancouver, Washington – Day #7 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Portland, Oregon – Day #6 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 6, 2018 by Hector

Instead of popping out for his ritual breakfast, Dr. Stan decided to join Hector for Curry, his first of the tour. Of the many venues, it was a matter of finding one open at lunchtime in the downtown area. Tandoor Indian Kitchen offered an inexpensive Buffet but no Lamb was included. It was better than the alternative US fayre. Hector is determined not to eat Burgers or Pizza on this trip. The citizens of this land must eat something else?

Thereafter it was time to be tourists. The tourist information office was in the bowels of a building at the top end of the main square. We had our own agenda and so were not looking for – the usual – information. TI-Doris had nothing to offer us in the way of Bier information.

Why else do people come to Portland?

We were told that the building at the bottom of the square was the court house and this was the oldest building west of the Mississippi. The mother-shop for Columbia Sportswear was a block or so away. Their Hastineau shoe range is the most comfortable Hector has ever worn. Columbia have stopped the line, Hector was after something similar. Even Dr. Stan was interested. The range on offer was pathetic, cheap and nasty, well not cheap. A rather neat top was spotted for Marg, a new range, not available in the UK yet. Rather than carry it around all day, we agreed I would return later.

Heading northwards towards Union Station we passed the Lan Su Chinese Garden. Approaching the station the final stretch was occupied by vagrants. In San Francisco’s Tenderloin neighbourhood where our hotel was located, we passed through the community of street dwellers on quite a few occasions, all African American. In Portland the vagrants were all of European origin.

Union Station stood out from every building in Portland, this had style. We had to confirm our train time for Friday. Checking in was recommended two hours before? Really? The lobby/ticket hall impressed. No vagrants permitted here.

Portland’s Steel Bridge is surely deserving of a grander name? Trains run along the lower deck, road traffic on top.

Steel Bridge didn’t open whilst we were in the vicinity, though a bridge further upstream did.

Steel Bridge crosses the Willamette River which joins the Columbia River on the northern limits of Portland. Here the Columbia forms the state border with Washington. At some 70km from the sea, I still find it strange to see such large ships this far inland. However, in 1969 I did sail up the Parana River, a tributary of the Rio de la Plata (Argentine), and a considerably further distance to Rosario.

We walked south along the left bank of the Willamette before cutting west and back to the square in the downtown area. Whilst Hector fetched the top from Columbia, Dr. Stan took himself to a well known coffee chain. I joined him thereafter for an Iced Coffee. How many needless calories can one add to a coffee, and why no crockery? Surely, if one is paying this much for a coffee to sit in, then they can at least provide a cup? Enough of this, it was Bier o’clock.

It was backup to Slabtown, 10 Barrel Brewing Co. was the first stop. Occupying the corner of the block, not as large as some venues we had already seen. We took seats at the bar, Stephanie served us, Boise Idaho – was displayed on her t-shirt. I wonder what happens there.

Cloudchaser at a mere 6.8%, a good session Bier strength to start the day. With Comet, a single hop IPA and 67 IBU this was a indeed a very fine start.

Apocalypse at the same abv followed, wtf? This West Coast IPA had the threshold IBU – 70. Slighlty hazy, and with a surprising hint of astringency, this Bier immediately hit the spot. The taste was – so sharp. We have a winner.

Tearing ourselves away, we crossed the street to Rogue, a familiar name, indeed the only known Portland Bier which Hector has previously recorded. Brutal IPA, 6.3% dry, hoppy, amber ale was first had at Birrifugio Travstevere (Roma, Italia). Whilst – The Source – is across the river at the Rogue Eastside Pub and Pilot Brewery, I had to have it given that I was finally in Portland.

It was time to get a bit silly. The range of Hop IPAs at progressive abv had to be sampled. 6 Hop IPA at 6.66% was near enough my preferred abv. This was even – drier – than the Brutal IPA.

Two and move on has been the model, except for the last port of call. I decided to cleanse the palate and sneak in something approaching a Kriek variant, I hoped. Sour can come close. The bottled Marionberry Sour at 6.5% was fit for purpose but not as sour as a quality Belgian Kriek.

Back across the street, it all became very confusing. Adjacent to 10 Barrel, Google had Brew Group PDX, on the ground it is called Bier Bike (Back Pedal Brewing Co.) Established in 2015, it was a bit of a fluke that we went in. Closing at 19.00 we made it, just. In addition to chatting to the barman, we watched their very own canning machine in action. Canned Bier offers a versatility for packing, storing and recycling compared to glass bottles. The sun is also less likely to get at the Bier.

Floka Rado at 5.4% is a hazy IPA featuring Eldorado hops. Light, hazy, floury – was noted.

Baseball caps I dislike despite owning a few, and have never understood the high fronted – Trucker Hats, anyway, six days into this trip and no t-shirts. Embroidered polo shirts do not appear to be de rigeur over here, yet the hats have embroidery.
Having discussed the canning machine, a sample of Summer Breeze came our way. At 5.9%, 24 IBU, this golden ale had a decent bite, however, I recorded it as – a nearly Bier.

The guys here were most amenable, I wish them well, they have lots of competition on their doorstep, but the Beer-Bike does mean they have their produce on display when chaps hire it for whatever.

It was Dr. Stan who suggested Kells Brewery next. This involved a walk of a few blocks to the west and across a highway. Had I known more about Kells in advance, I may not have been so willing.

Hector is in an Irish Bar, on the day I choose to wear – a tap. Inevitably, there was an alternatively signed tap on the wall. We’re in the States, nobody would recognise that Hector’s allegiance lay elsewhere.

The barman gave us samples. Kells IPA at 6.5% kicked things off. Gold, with a slight haze, I have no tasting notes. It was either nothing special, else I was distracted by the quantity of whisky on offer. I write – whisky – the bottle of Auchentoshan was distilled about 2km from Hector’s House. The near ubiquitous – Ballantine’s – could not be found on the shelf, the barman said he had better order another.  Almost every bar/restaurant on the planet has a bottle of Ballantine’s, also distilled not far from Hector’s House.

Tropical Hazy IPA at 6.8% was the next Bier. Featuring – Citrus and Guava – this bright orange, hazy IPA was totally – in the style – absolutely beautiful.

Good choice, Dr. Stan.

 

 

Dr. Stan ordered Irish Stew, always a waste of good ingredients, IMHO. Anna/Leanna regaled us with the story of how she tried to study in Scotland, Glasgow first, then St Andrews. Tried to, I conclude she was not successful. High standards in Scottish educational establishments then.

We were given a sample of something – Mango, Experimental – no abv was forthcoming –
We don’t have a name for it yet. Cloudy, orange, less fizzy and chewy – was noted. We’ll never know what it was.

Going home was the sensible thing to do, four breweries visited today, Hector even appears to have found a bus home, though why the LG thought we were one the other side of Couch Park baffles. Instead we retraced our steps, back to the cluster of breweries we had come from.

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Plocalypse (sic) – to the tune of – Metropolis (Motörhead) was becoming an earworm. There had to be more.

Straight into 10 Barrel, there was time for one, we had more. Two visits today, unless we find something even better, Hector will be back for even more.

The Brewpubs and restaurants visited today:

10 Barrel Brewing Portland  –  1411 NW Flanders St, Portland, OR 97209

BrewGroup PDX / Back Pedal Brewing Co.  –  1425 NW Flanders St, Portland, OR 97209

Rogue Pearl Public House  –  1339 NW Flanders St, Portland, OR 97209

Kells Brewery  –  210 NW 21st Ave, Portland, OR 97209

Tandoor Indian Kitchen  –  406 SW Oak St., Portland Oregon 97204

Posted in Portland | Comments Off on Portland, Oregon – Day #6 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Portland, Oregon – Day #5 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 5, 2018 by Hector

Farewell to San Francisco

Booked on the Alaska Airlines flight to Portland OR departing at 12.10 and due at PDX at 13.49, I was surprised to find that it was – Virgin – who were flying us. We were sat in seats 3A and 3B, up front, courtesy once more of Dr. Stan Airways. Hector’s role is that of Passepartout. We had originally looked at taking the train to Sacramento for a couple of days then working our way up though Oregon. On realising that would mean many daylight hours spent travelling every couple of days, we dismissed long train journeys as waste of VDT.  However, Portland to Seattle (Washington), our final stop, is manageable by train. TANSTAAFL – also comes to mind. After the next three nights in Portland we go south to Eugene then Albany for two nights each, back to Portland for two more, then northwards to Seattle. The hope is that when we arrive back in Portland a week today, we will know our way around.

On touchdown in Portland, I spotted an F-16 in a hangar, the first I have ever seen – in the flesh.  The arrivals hall was immense, what were buskers doing in here? So much for security.  Indeed, at San Francisco Airport we were allowed to place our hand luggage on the belt for scanning without a numpty telling us we had to. Columbia sportswear had an outlet in the arrivals hall, more on them soon, hopefully.

With a $5.00 day ticket purchased for the MAX, we headed for downtown Portland. Crossing the Steel Bridge was a novelty, photos required. We alighted at the correct stop for the AAE Portland Downtown Value Inn (415 South West Montgomery Street) but somehow ended up wandering around the full block before entering. Distances on a map are only fully appreciated with boots on the ground. Being near the university was my reasoning for the number of food stalls opposite the hotel. We wouldn’t starve, especially as – Curry – was on offer. Tomorrow.

The Green line took us up to the short distance to the north west of Portland and Slabtown where there is a cluster of microbreweries. This is where we planned to be for at least two of the next three days/nights. Hector has a cunning plan for Thursday which will take us across the state boundary.

We had to start somewhere, our first Oregon Bier was at Breakside Brewery – NW Slabtown. Breakside IPA at 6.3% 73 IBU was the obvious Bier to start. This amber West Coast IPA was dry, very dry, and had no astringency which one fears. I came to realise at this point that astringency in the rear of the throat has not been an issue, so far, in this trip. What do the brewers in the USA know that those in Polska do not? 70 IBU (Rowing Jack, Ale Browar, Polska) has set the standard for bitterness. Bier in this range is usually savoured.

The brewpub was remarkably busy for a late afternoon school day. With seating outside for those who needed to be there, the setting was less industrial compared to the equivalent venues in San Francisco, though already there was a sense of this area being transformed to residential. Who would want to live with half a dozen microbreweries on one’s doorstep?  And already, the prices looked better.

Next up was Thirst Trap at 6.1%, 69 IBU. A hazy IPA, once the gas settled there was a big grapefruit hit. This Bier was astonishing! In the style, with the flavours one dreams of. This was the first batch brewed of this – Seasonal Bier. It was so good, there was only one thing we could do, move on to the next venue.

Dr. Stan came up with the Lompoc Tavern. It was little more than a block away, the feeling of being in a residential area was very much to the fore. I was assured that once upon a time this was the site of Lompoc Brewing. With the brewery now off site, this should have pleased the upstairs neighbours. Not everyone enjoys the odour of brewer’s yeast.

I had to look up Pamplemousse, it’s a type of grapefruit. This should follow Breakside’s Thirst Trap quite nicely.

Pamplemousse Citra IPA at 6.2% proved to be a worthy Bier. Dark gold with a slight haze the grapefruit did indeed come across. With a 70 IBU this again was right up there on the scale of bitterness.

Having been bunged up nasally since I got off the ‘plane in San Francisco, the taste-buds have been struggling. Finally, there was a sign that the taste-buds were reawakening.
Dank – was a term first encountered at Pacific Brewing in San Francisco. It does not exactly sound appealing to a commentator from the moist, temperate west coast of Scotland. It may have been warmer here in Portland, however, the vegetation was comparable to that in the lowlands of the UK.

Enter the Dank, another IPA, this time at a lower 5.8%. Hazy, and getting closer to the New England style, the citrus came across, however the lower abv was reflected by the lack of body.

It was three and a bit blocks to Lucky Labrador Beer Hall. I had the address, I had the direction, could I find it? We were back in more industrial territory. There was a well lit up bar, this was not it. In we went to ask the punters, OK, across some derelict ground. Quimby, I have only ever seen this name at the start of a cartoon series. Was this named after the great man?

The Labrador Beet Hall was quite a place, huge. A few customers sat at one of the long bench tables to our left as we entered. We chose a more central table. There were tables everywhere, one wonders if this place ever gets full. The barman steered us towards WAG IPA at 6.8% which proved to be a decent choice. Orange-Gold in colour with a full haze, again this was approaching the New England style. Mosaic and Citra hops were mentioned possibly by Dr. Stan from another source.

We were well relaxed, this would be our last port of call today, our third. One brewery yesterday, three today, so much for four each day. OK, we had travelled a fair distance to get here. I studied the t-shirts, the quality did not justify the price. More WAG, this time there was a tangy taste. The hops were coming, this could be amazing, on any other day I would be sending texts home raving @WAG.

We’ve had some very good Bier today. Five days so far, as long as any sensible European Bier trip. We have only just begun, but are pacing ourselves well. Two things I have to mention: Hector was last out of Lucky Labrador, and I found a timely bus leaving from a couple of blocks away which took us home.

The brewpubs visited today:

Breakside Brewery – NW Slabtown  –  1570 NW 22nd Ave, Portland, OR 97210

Lompoc  Tavern  –  620 NW 23rd Ave, Portland, OR 97210

Lucky Labrador Beer Hall – QUIMBY 1945, NW Quimby St, Portland, OR 97209

Posted in Portland | Comments Off on Portland, Oregon – Day #5 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

San Francisco, California – Day #4 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 4, 2018 by Hector

The daily ritual began with Curry at Punjab Kabab House which was decidedly – Mainstream – and served no better than competent Curry. I had hoped for so much more.

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Before returning to Adante Hotel to meet up with Dr. Stan, I noted some more Curry Houses for a future visit. Hector the relentless. I also passed Bartlett Hall, in daylight. The chances were we would have a Bier there later tonight. I also needed more cash and so went in search of a friendly cash machine.

Hector’s chosen bus to the Golden Gate Bridge took us through Presidio. The bridge became closer and closer, then further away. We baled at Fisherman’s Wharf and caught another bus to the Vista Point.

Presidio was nothing like I had imagined, the mental image of a military installation had been planted by movies. Would the Starfleet Academy be built here in the twenty third century? Instead, a leafy residential suburb is what we passed through, twice.

We jockeyed for position at the viewpoint then walked down to sea-level. Lots of photos, quite a sight.

Walking across towards Sausalito was dismissed, too far, but more importantly, too high. Instead we headed down through Crissy Field, a former airfield but now home to Fort Point Beer Company.

Where Google Maps let us down with the bus, it did guide us to the correct industrial unit. There was no sign of life. Going round the back it became apparent there was no taproom. A brewery worker gave us the bad news – the taproom – is in downtown San Francisco. A sample or two might have invigorated us.

The long walk through Crissy Field continued, a bus stop was located. Marg phoned just as we reached the bus terminus. Our bus would be a free service to very close to where we wished to go. This was the PresidiGo DOWNTOWN Shuttle via Fisherman’s Wharf to Crissy Field.

The streets leading to the Fort Point Ferry Building on Embarcadero, Jackson Square / Financial District had modern office buildings. One skyscraper had a lattice which I took to provide flexibility for earthquakes.

The taproom for Fort Point is a kiosk with outside seating.

Mosaic Park   4.7%

Pale Ale 19 IBU Cool, light and refreshing. Due to being nasally bunged, I could sense the Mosaic hops rather than taste them. This was a good starting point, a session Bier.

*

*

*

Animal  7.4%

Tropical IPA 54 IBU Gold, with a haze, the body was there, dry tasting, full on hops – Vic’s Secret, Simcoe, Citrus. This is exactly what was being looked for.

Being late afternoon, it was decided we had done enough wandering. The quality of the Bier was such we felt like getting our feet under the table. The Mosaic Park was a decent starter, once we got into the Animal, there was no going back. So much for having two and moving on. We stayed put, so much for four breweries per day. The staff engaged us, they could tell we were serious about our Bier and were enjoying the fayre.When I went up to fetch my second round, it was on the house.  So it does happen.

Every so often, music wafted, solo sax. Was this being played in an adjacent unit? On hearing Birdland (Weather Report) Hector went off to investigate. Having explored the ferry terminal I was back out on Embarcadero, here was the source.

Between pieces we chatted, Wayne Shorter, Jan Garbarek, even Pastorius mentioned, this was a surprising addition to the pleasure of the afternoon.

The clock shows we left at 20.08, shortly before sunset. It was dark when we reached the far side of Chinatown. Brandy Ho’s – Hunan Food on Columbus Ave came highly recommended. We were not disappointed, the food was magnificent.

Thereafter it was back to Bartlett Hall which we had visited on the first two nights.

After more Goofy Boots, it was time to try Dark Bullit Porter. At a modest 9.5% this was definitely a goodnight Bier. An – Imperial Coffee Porter – this had chocolate and vanilla, yoffay!

We had come to the USA to chase the hops, however, Oregon is where we expect to find the best Bier, and Portland, Oregon, is where we are headed tomorrow.

The venues visited:

Fort Point Brewing Co.  –  Ferry Building, One San Francisco Bay Trail #54, San Francisco, CA 94111, USA

Brandy Ho’s – Hunan Food – 217 Columbus Ave, San Francisco, CA 94133, United States

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San Francisco, California – Day #3 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 3, 2018 by Hector

Dr. Stan may eventually become used to Hector’s – morning after – blogging. Curry-Heute at least must be kept up to date, Bier-Traveller is a much more complicated affair, so time consuming.

I came out of the hotel to find two fire engines across the street, but no fire. The fire brigade in San Francisco appear to just cruise around the streets instead of dossing, sorry, training all day, at the fire station.

I went a few blocks to Lahore Karahi for Sunday brunch whilst the good doctor took on bunkers no doubt at a local grill-cafe. The Curry disappointed, the name of the restaurant could have been – Spicy Shorva.

Dr. Stan was waiting for me in the lobby at the Adante Hotel, his bus timetables at the ready. He had a route worked out to Fisherman’s Wharf. When I announced that Bus 19 was leaving from three blocks west of us on Geary St. in a few minutes, he was taken aback. How did I know this? The bus wheeched us up over the hill we walked up yesterday, so much simpler.

Dr. Stan had – Chouder – in mind, Hector had eaten and was not inclined to do so again. Taylor St. had to be recorded.

I was becoming used to seeing the same street names in different parts of the city. Streets we had already walked along in the downtown areas started/ended out here.

We had already seen one end of the San Francisco cable-car, now we saw the other, and the queue. Why bother?

Alcatraz, it was a matter of how good a photo. The Golden Gate Bridge was in the hazy distance, tomorrow. Yesterday I saw a similarly coloured bridge looking down through Chinatown and took this to be it. Now I know.

The naval dockyard display was free to enter, yay! I had heard of – Liberty Ships – but had never seen one. Much larger and broader than I had imagined, but then the Americans launched their ships sideways.

I had never seen a US submarine before either. Henceforth I shall study every U-Boot in movies and spot the imposters.

It was Bier o’clock. We had looked at some bars along Beach St but stuck to the plan – Brewpubs.

San Francisco Brewing Co – is housed in a converted mill / chocolate factory. There was a lot of children around were they still hoping for chocolate? And as for the toilets, did I end up in the ladies? A crazy queuing system.

As has become a tradition which – The Faither – despises, there had to be a post Curry – Cider – to begin with. This went down a treat.

Marg phoned, she has yet to get used to the time difference and us just starting our fun when hers has ended. I wish Hollywood producers would come to realise this also, how many TV programmes have daylight shown in transatlantic phone-calls when it is oftentimes impossible?

Dr. Stan probably had better Bier here. Hector’s next choice was written – Curry Chef IPA. Not the best.

The Original Blend Cider (South City Ciderworks, San Bruno, CA, USA) 5.5%

Cold and refreshing, no nasty surprises, excellent.

Chef Curry IPA 7.0%. 60 IBU

IPA Despite the hops – Chinook, Cascade, and Columbus – this did not have the particular flavour one looks for.

We were at one end of Polk Street, our next port of call was directly up the hill, Russian Hill, to Woods Polk Station, back on the bus.

This was one of many taprooms for Woods Beer & Wine Co. Had the premises been more salubrious, who knows, we may have had another. The Crusoe IPA (7.9%) looked the part, it did not hit home. The – ham & cheese pastie – was more memorable than the Bier, it’s all in the seasoning.

At this point some might have considered going straight back to – Local Brewing – and continuing last night’s – IPA party. That was not our grand plan.

Bus 19 dropped us at 8th & Howard St., two blocks from Cellarmaker. Howard Street is becoming a familiar locus.

Cellarmaker has a small seating area. We were in the far corner beside the bar initially. As the place emptied so we grabbed a better table. Why close so early?

Hop Making Sense 5.6%. 45 IBU

Pale Ale Nelson, Mosaic, Simcoe, Amarillo and hops. The Bier was served so cold I could taste nothing. A waste.

Oils & Powder 6.1%. 47 IBU

IPA Citra, Mosaic, Amarillo, Citra, and Simcoe Hops. Despite having the same hops as  Septem 8th Day, my favourite Greek Bier, this did not have – it.

Two potentially great Biers, so what happened here?

Moving on, we had a couple of more nearby venues in mind. Sadly, we were being frustrated by early closing on Sunday evenings. Eventually we took a trolley bus to Toronado, a bar which is as near the Fillmore district as Hector is likely to get.

As we sat on our bar stools, something unusual occurred, Mein Host took my photo, just like that.  No introductions, was Hector a wanted hound? It was the the t-shirt which fascinated Mein Host, Hector was both here and possibly not.

Cash only was established very quickly. When I paid and put the change in my pocket, Dr. Stan was appalled. Apparently I must look as though I’m going to tip, even if I don’t right away. To that affect I noticed that the punters sitting at the bar had left their change on the bar in front of them. I’ll get used to this, but tipping, and every round?

Despite the Multi Taps, the choices were not exactly riveting. I can’t believe it’s not hazy (Allamont, Livermore, Ca) 6.0% is an gold, almost clear IPA. It was served too cold and so marred the flavour.

I decided to go to the dark side. The 7.0% Vanilla Porter (Heretic Brewing Co., USA) was suitably mellow, not too sweet, and not too cold. Success.

The decor was somewhat intense, beyond even a Belgian bar, with lots of well known brands on display. The point of our being here was to try Bier from breweries we had never heard of, and be – in the style.

With Mein Host tipped, all was well. Ah, the American sense of humour.

Tonight we gave Bartlett a miss. An early night.

The venues visited today:

San Francisco Brewing Co. – 3150 Polk St, San Francisco, CA 94109

Woods Polk Station – 2255 Polk St, San Francisco, CA 94109

Cellarmaker  –  1150 Howard St, San Francisco, CA 94103

Toronado  –  547 Haight St, San Francisco, CA 94117

Lahore Karahi (612 O’Farrell St, San Francisco, CA 94109

Back to Day #2

On to Day #4

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San Francisco, California – Day #2 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 2, 2018 by Hector

We slept, despite not being able to open the window in what was quite a stuffy room when we arrived back at Adante Hotel last night. Two double beds fitted into our room, just. Dr. Stan went down to sample the inclusive Breakfast, it was reportedly Minimalist, he would need to find a Diner and have his customary morning feed. This permitted Hector to disappear for an hour to satisfy his craving other than for Bier. Chutney Indian Restaurant impressed.

Dr. Stan was waiting in the lobby, he had a suggestion. He wished to walk up Jones St. beside the hotel then head east. After one or two blocks he realised that if we turned east we would be giving away all of the energy expelled in getting as high as we had already reached, it’s a Physics thing. Dr. Stan claims to know about Physics. We kept going, Nob Hill, I remember this from the Spencer Tracy/ Clark Gable/ Jeanette Macdonald movie – San Francisco. I used to show the Earthquake sequence to my pupils, the special effects were excellent for the time, the destruction of infrastructure well portrayed.

When one climbs a hill one knows the top cannot be seen from the starting point, each block was becoming progressively steeper. There were words of encouragement from passers by. The Americans talk to everyone, including themselves, which I find disturbing. We reached a top and could see across to the north of the Peninsula. A Cathedral, Grants? Every way was now – down. Back to the original plan, it was Dr. Stan’s idea to walk up Nob Hill. Such was the heat and the amount of sweat excreted, I knew we needed a reward.

We headed east as per Dr. Stan’s plan, it was his idea.

Approaching Mason we could hear a Swing Band playing classics. On the TV this morning there was the news that a street in San Francisco was being renamed – Tony Bennett Way, we had stumbled across the ceremony, no sign of – The Man – himself.

A few blocks further and we were in China Town, we would have to eat here at some point, not now, not today. I was leading us northwards, a Multi-tap Pub was a few blocks away. China Town was markedly different from what I recall in New York, this was not simply eateries. Here were all the shops and services the Chinese community would require. The inevitable Gift Shops sold the usual crap, no Dragons, why no Dragons?

Google Maps took us with efficiency to the Rogue Wave Bar, there was scaffolding all along the block, closed, derelict. Tessa, is is too early to introduce Tessa? It’s never to soon to mention Tessa, would tell us later that the building had gone on fire. Holden Tours.

The San Francisco Brewing Co. lay a short bus ride to the north at Fisherman’s Wharf, Fort Point Beer Company lay beyond that in the Presidio, hang on, nothing open yet. We needed a new plan, we also needed a Bier, This was the hottest temperature I have seen in San Francisco this year since I started making my daily checks. We chanced a Bus, it took us back over the hill, but not by the steep route we had previously walked. Not even Steve McQueen would have done his stunts up there.

Howard St. is where we alighted, there had to be a photo. ThirstyBear Organic Brewing was the objective, the first of the known Brewpubs on our list. As with last night at Bartlett Hall, we sat at the Bar, more chance of engaging the Chaps working. Howard Street IPA (7.0%, 70 IBU) was the first Bier of the day. Unfiltered, Gold, Dry with a big body, this was a big hitter to start.

It was after 15.00, Marg would be going to bed soon, a phone-call was imminent. On cue, a goodnight call. Marg has yet to get to grips with the fact that as she heads for nocturnal repose, our day is just getting underway.

Dr. Stan had spotted some hand-pull fonts, and also the availability of a Maibock called Amber Ale (7.6%). Dr. Stan had it the Traditional way, I had the standard keg pumped version. I preferred the latter version of the Amber Ale brewed with almonds. Flavour-wise, it was a timely alternative to full on Hops.

We were undercharged, the Chap serving suggested the management could – let it go. We paid in full and tipped. Even then nobody checked what we had left. It is going to take time for Hector understand these goings on.

Google Maps had flagged up a Baseball game starting at 19.05. The AT&T stadium was in the same direction as we were heading. Baseball was on every TV in ThirstyBear except one showing a recording of today’s Sverige v Danmark match which I already knew finished 0 v 0. Ladies Baseball, there’s a hoot. The Pitcherette goes through all the same motions before delivery as her male counterpart, then throws underhand. Sinister, stupid to watch. Softball.

The 21st Amendment Brewery and Restaurant was buzzing with as many people outside as in. We nearly had a window table but the Photographer was distracted. Bar seats for two were attained. Behind were a group I dare not look around to see, hysterical girlies. I was not here to give – The Hector Stare. Fortunately they departed early in our stay.

Homefront IPA (6.1% 58 IBU) has Chinook and Citra Hops, plus Orange Peel. I could taste the Citra but the Bier was too cold to taste, Peel?

Baba O’Reilly (The Who) came over the sound system: all the music I have heard to date in the Bars of San Francisco has been British. No Freebird, Sweet Home Alabama and Hotel California here 24/7 as I feared.

Blood Orange Brew Free! Or Die (7.0%) was next. A West Coast IPA with blood Orange purée and citrusy dry hops. This was definitely more in the face.

The Chaps working behind the Bar were working flat out, I had to admire the choreography as they served the various Biers and Cocktails.

We walked past the Pacific Brewing Laboratory because it was named as Black Hammer Brewing above the door then realised this was the place. We took seat at the Bar and found a Chap originally from Barnsley sitting on my left, conversation ensued but was brief as he was on the point of leaving.

Dankmaster (7.4%. 24 IBU), what an off-putting name for a Bier, however, it featured Chinook and Mosaic Hops. Another gold offering, not hazy, but unfiltered, it lacked the required dryness but was not sweet even after the 70 IBU which had preceded it. This was a good staging point for something worthwhile to follow. Alas, the Bier we had set our minds on was not available, so we decided to take our Dollars elsewhere.

One thing that did amuse here, the screen showing the Bier Taps had an Untappd reference, and along the bottom recent purchases by those who subscribe to this were listed. Dr. Stan appeared under his chosen Bier name.

Local Brewery & Beer Bar was minutes away. On entering it was apparent that this was another no-frills establishment, reminiscent of the outlets along the Bermondsey Beer Mile (Southwark – London). The array of tanks impressed. We had fourteen Taps to chose from.

The Barman greeted us in the manner which I still find over friendly, the American way. Explaining that we were here for Hops, he offered hops, just in a glass, no liquid. That’s a line I may use again.

Neverclear (6.0%) was a decent starter, a New England IPA, hazy as the name suggested.

The Chap next to us, Steve engaged us in conversation. I asked if he had studied Marine Biology or Psychology as virtually all US people I met in Israel in the 1980s and 1990s appeared to do. Psychology and Business business was the answer. Steve had studied in London and took the opperchancity to tour Britain. He admitted to the insanity of climbing Arthur’s Seat (Edinburgh – Scotland) on the steep side with a backpack. Crazy, dangerous. He mentioned – Lagunitas – so that’s how you pronounce it:  Lagoo-neat-ass.

On the return from my first visit to the restrooms, I found Alejandro’s wallet so handed it to the Lady who had taken over behind the bar. She recognised Alejandro and was able to phone him to inform him that his wallet was here. Alejandro appeared within the hour, so no thanks then. If I lose my wallet, or worse, on this Trip, I’ll be beside myself.

The LG has not been behaving since I arrived. Yesterday it would not make outgoing calls. EE were useless, and did not phone back to check all was well. I solved the problem myself. Outgoing calls have to start – +44, not – 0044. My backup charger was not charging my phone today yet all the lights were suggesting it was. It was charging my camera. The Lady offered me a charger, I borrowed an Android cable, success.

Duboce IPA (6.9%) was up next. This was a West Coast IPA and much more like it, 7 of 10 on the bitterness scale used here. Doboce: Doo-bochay? – I asked. Doo-bose – apparently. Alexander Dumas and the revenge of The Shawshank Redemption then? Two Biers per Brewpub was the plan, we were considering staying for more, however as it happened, more came. Meet Tassa, sorry – Tessa. She had given us a San Francisco Beermap which would complement my reliance on Google Maps and Dr. Stan’s pile of paper. She suggested – Cellermaker – as our next stopoff, it was halfway back to Adante Hotel.

Meanwhile, a Schnitt of Drift the Bay (6.5%) was presented. This was beautiful, a gold haze, hoppy, and sat on palate so well. This was easily the best Bier so far with balanced hops, flavour, no astringency. Mosaic, Citra, and Simcoe Hops were here, the latter doing no damage as sometimes it can. CAN.

Tessa then admitted that this had come from a can – I had some leftover.

The can was shown, a Pint, just what is a US Pint?

Once we had paid the Bill, a top-up can appeared, this was very much appreciated. Great Bier, a great venue, great people. This is what one hears of, thanks.  Hands up, Hector was last to leave.

We walked north towards our hotel, somehow we found ourselves back in Bartlett Hall. There had to be more Goofy Boots (5.9%).

As good as I’ve had – said Dr. Stan.

An excellent nightcap.

The Brewpubs and Restaurant visited today:

ThirstyBear Organic Brewing – 3915, 661 Howard St, San Francisco, CA 94105

21st Amendment Brewery and Restaurant – 563 2nd St, San Francisco, CA 94107

Pacific Brewing Laboratory/ Black Hammer Brewing – 544 Bryant St, San Francisco, CA 94107

Local Brewery & Beer Bar / Local Brewing Co. – 69 Bluxome St, San Francisco, CA 94107

Bartlett Hall / Bartlett Brewing Co. – 242 O’Farrell St, San Francisco, CA 94102

Chutney Indian Restaurant – 511 Jones St, San Francisco, CA 94102

Back to Day #1

On to Day #3

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San Francisco, California – Day #1 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 1, 2018 by Hector

It’s a long way to San Francisco from Manchester, at least British Airways took us here on schedule and our luggage came too. Today is Day 1 of Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour – USA, but actually Day 4 since we left Glasgow (Scotland) for Manchester and Huddersfield (England). It was around 20.00 local time when left Adante Hotel in search of Bier. The hotel was chosen for its location in the heart of the Peninsula, that it appears to be surrounded by Curry Cafes cannot be coincidental. Curry-Morgen.

We had spotted Bartlett Hall as we walked up Powell Street beside the Cable Car towards Union Square. It was not our the list of Microbreweries, it was a logical starting point. We were led to a table for two in the furthest corner of the dining area, past the brewing plant.

We would be happier at the Bar – I suggested. No problem, back we went, now we were part of the Bartlett Hall. The Bier List was provided plus a folder with Guest Bier. The House Bier is why we were here.

First up was Goofy Boots (5.9%) which features Mosaic and Enigma Hops. This was a fine start to the Trip. Now we have to get used to 14oz glasses and the American pricing and tipping system.

Pocket Sand IPA (6.7%) was up next and served in a smaller glass. This had Citra and Waimea Hops, and did not have the impact of Bier #1. Had we been out for longer, then more Goofy Boots would have been the norm, however, our Barman had informed us of the nearby Mikkeller Bar, this we had to try.

Passing even more Curry Houses, Hector was in his element, though the flight had taken its toll on the appetite. I hadn’t eaten in twelve hours, I also blame a stupid late night Pizza in Manchester many hours before.

Mikkeller, I have been to one in Barcelona, Dr. Stan informed me are Danish, a – Gypsy Brewery – who have their recipes brewed around the World. Seating was free, we were not asked for ID as every other customer was. There were no seats in the Bar area so we took the window bench seats, no table either.

Our first choice was Altamont Maui Waui (6.5%) but this was not on. Mikkeller SD Staff Magician (5.5%) was sensible. A New England style Pale Ale, this was another unfiltered offering. On delivering the Bier, our Waiter asked for a card to guarantee payment. Even though we were cash customers, my card had to be swiped.

This was 50cl?

There was nothing – Magic – about the Staff Magician, it was time for our last Bier-Today, Dr. Stan made his own choice, something with Coffee, for Hector – Mikkeller Mr. Burgundy – (7.5%). This was an IPA brewed with Blackcurrants, something – Sour – was hoped for. Our Waiter sporting the Cantillon Logo on the rear of his t shirt had told us that the Bar downstairs sells Sour Bier.

Mr. Burgundy was not Cassis, drinkable, no more. Still, way better than Kaffestout (6.0%) which was Dr. Stan’s selection.

Shattered, hungry, I cannot get though to Marg on the phone, no outgoing calls. EE were useless, and I had to wait up an extra hour until they were open UK time. Marg managed to get though to me, strange.

Tomorrow will start with Curry, then we might go and see some of San Francisco and the Microbreweries we already have mapped.

… and so to Day 2

The Hotel, Bar and Microbrewery visited today:

Adante Hotel – 610 Geary St, San Francisco, CA 94102

Bartlett Hall / Bartlett Brewing Co. – 242 O’Farrell St, San Francisco, CA 94102

Mikkeller Bar – 34 Mason St, San Francisco, CA 94102

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A First Visit to Brescia

Posted on October 14, 2017 by Hector

Leaving the Train Station the first business of the day was Curry. Bombay Tandoory Ristorante Indiano is a modest establishment, the Curry served there is truly remarkable. I was already planning a second visit.

Arriving on the southern end of the town, everything was therefore North and East, the Castello the final target before retracing our steps for Birra. En route we found the various squares and the Duomo, impressive architecture. I liked the atmosphere of Brescia, and could imagine the number of coach trips stopping off each day in the summer. October was a good time to be here.

After the Piazze we headed east to the Forum, I expected more, a lot more. We would pass this way again with better light and so the photos were repeated.

The climb up to the Castello was certainly worth it, quite a fortification. A pity the view over the town was marred by the haze, but hay, heat in October! There was a Steam Locomotive too.

It was Bier o’Clock. The places I had selected for today did not open until 18.00 with the exception of Arnaldienplatz Bayersiche Bier Gasthof. We were there right on the opening time given in Google Maps. The shutters eventually were raised, mopping up began, I called through, they were not opening until 18.00. I told them to fix Google and stop misleading the public. This was a pity, I was not for hanging around, next place, Inferno was closed, permanently judging by the exterior.

It was Marg who spotted BEFed as we walked at pace along Via Soferino. It just happened to be moments before the 18.00 opening time, we walked in and were greeted by Girlies. They hadn’t a clue. Were they open? Could we have a seat? Questions that appeared to be beyond them. Despite being the first customers we were shown to the worst table in the premises, facing nothing. Marg insisted on another table, we moved. Eventually a Chap appeared who would pour Birra. There was a choice from two.

This is a Micro-Brewery Chain with other outlets in Brescia, so no Brewing Tanks here. Tipo Lager at 5.2% is a standard Helles, there was nothing of note. It was a matter of drink up, pay and leave. My hopes were high for our next port of call. We passed the Bombay Tandoory, on another day I would have been straight back in.

Xander Beer – Via Dalmazia 23a, 25127 Brescia, Italia

One immediately knows when one is at home. The Chap serving outlined the Birra on offer. It was evident we would spend the rest of the evening here. The Brewer from another local Brewhouse was introduced, but we had only this evening, and we were staying put.

Drinking Polish Bier in Italia, why not? It was in Roma where I first tasted Stone Brewing (Berlin, Deutschland). If this is where the Hops are…

A sensible start, Aby Do Wiosny (Browar Widawa, Polska) at a mere 4.6% had Citra Hops and was right on the button. It was time to up the game. Chill Kanapa (Browar Widawa, Polska) at 6.2% is a New England IPA. This ticked all the boxes, smooth, absolutely no astringency and full on Hops! This could and should have been the Session Bier had I been staying even longer.

Next up was an IPA at 7.1% from Beer Antwort (Italia). This was suitably dry, had body, a sense of Hops, but was a disappointment after the Widawa Piwa.

It was time to try the House Birra, Doppio X (Xander, Brescia, Lombardia) at a modest 6.0% was better than anything I had drunk at other venues on this trip, but I had to wonder as to the point of this Bier. The Bier had body, was dry, but nothing was happening in terms of Flavour. Was this down to it being a Red Birra?

There should be no prizes for guessing what Piwa Hector finished on.

*

Meanwhile Marg was happy with the House Cola, until she spotted something – Red.

We also ate here. The Burger was substantial, and the local interpretation of – Pizza – was better than the thin nonsense that prevails across Italia. Give Hector his Deep Pan if he is having Pizza.

Time for Treni back to Desenzano del Garda… which was well late.

*

*

*

The Micro Breweries and Restaurant visited:

Xander Beer – Via Dalmazia 23a, 25127 Brescia, Italia

BEFed – Via Solferino 57, 25121 Brescia, Italia

Bombay Tandoory Ristorante Indiano  –  Via Solferino, 1, 25122 Brescia, Italia

Posted in Brescia, Lombardia | Comments Off on A First Visit to Brescia

Iraklio (Crete) – One Legendary Night in Heraklion

Posted on June 26, 2017 by Hector

The Bus Ticket from Chania to Iraklio was purchased yesterday, just in case. In theory I had an allocated seat, if there was a throng this should at least guarantee I get on the Bus. This is the disadvantage of travelling alone, one cannot deal with the luggage whilst the other secures the seats.

Four hours, approximately one hundred kilometres, slow. There was a brief stop in Rethymno where I stayed in 1998, we were making good time. I could see Iraklio in the distance when Marg phoned, we were over a half hour ahead of schedule. How can people board at intermediate stops if this is how they run things?

Hotel Lena was chosen because of its proximity to the Port, the Bus Station is across the street from the Port. I believe Marg and I stayed at this hotel in 2004 when our flight arrived too late to make it worthwhile to progress to Malia. That was a good night, Greece had just become European Champions, there was a buzz about the place. We watched a replay of the match at a Taverna in a Square. Who knows where? This was the beginnings of the digital age, 35mm film was still in use, so few photos in comparison to the present.

Doris gave me the key to room 103, one number less than Akali Hotel, still only one power socket. Bert, on reception, could tell for some reason that I am Scottish, a pleasant chat, but Hector was on a schedule.

Curry Park was a few blocks away, the alternative was in Hersonisis on the far side of Iraklio, next time. The Hector was fed, but not amused. To quote a Benny Hill character – Why you not rissen?

I had three venues mapped out worthy of a visit from The Bier Traveller. The intention was to go to the furthest away first then work my way back. To my surprise, walking up the narrow pedestrianised street from Curry Park, I found myself outside Utopia Cafe/Beer. What appeared to be a Bottle Shop was at the end of a line of windows, presumably – the indoors. I entered the Shop to find a decent array of Biers, nothing to set the heather on fire. The fridge had a selection, it would have to be Deutsche Bier – Schlenkerla Marzen (Brauerei Heller, Bamberg, Bayern), at 5.1% one of Bamberg’s finest. I made my selection known then looked for a way in. Doris gestured to the seats across the way, all outdoor, some in the shade.

You can sit anywhere.

Not there.

The best shade was at a larger table, so can people not sit together? I was moved nearer a group of females, all smoking.

Do you want to pay €4.50 or €7.50 for the full service? I was asked.

I looked at the Doris, what could – Full Service – possibly include?

Nibbles, apparently. I don’t need Nibbles, I have just eaten.

The Schlenkerla was an assault on the taste-buds after the Blandness of Eurofizz, or the Excellence that is Septem. How I would have preferred to drink my Smoked Bier in smoke-free surroundings.

One Bier here was enough, Hector had a Micro-Brewery to visit. I hit the highest part of the town and recognised nothing. Google Maps took me down a small side street to Crop Roastery-Brewery. There was quite a crowd outside, the majority in a small park area opposite, neat. There was a Bar on my left as I entered, and coffee house to the right.

Bier? I said to a young chap, he handed me a clipboard. He pointed to the first page and clued me in to the fact that these were the Draught Biers. The far end of the Bar looked like the optimum place to sit, at the Bar, out of the way. A Couple sat at a window table immediately behind the last Barstool, to sit there would have been, uncomfortable, nosey. I took the stool at the corner nearest.

Psaki IPA (Solo, Heraklion, Crete) at 7.5% with an IBU of 50, looked like a good starting point. Instead of pouring the Bier from the Tap, the Barman produced a Bottle. A Disappointing Curry, You can sit anywhere, and now Bottle instead of Draught. I think the Barman sensed my angst. The Bier at least gave off a decent quantity of Hops, there was a sharp taste with a hint of Orange.

Behind me to my left a voice suggested to the Barman that I should sample a Solo / Whirlpool Collaboration. A decent sample of New England IPA came my way. At 6.0% this IPA was surprisingly – Thin – the Hops were not intense. A Light coloured Bier, but Cloudy, it was Fine, – The Voice – assured me that it is rated.

I decided to return to familiar ground, it has been two days since I last enjoyed a Bottle of Septem (Eoboea, Hellas) 8th Day (Mera), in doing so I had demonstrated my knowledge of the Greek Craft Beer Scene. The Voice approved my choice.

The girlfriend departed, meet Dimitris, one of three owners of Crop Roastery-Brewery. In the short time I had been there, my interest in Bier had become apparent. Dimitris took up a stool around the corner, half blocking the Bar entrance, his prerogative. The Calling Card was given albeit the Bier-Traveller on the reverse side is in a much smaller font. Curry-Heute is me.

It was agreed that I must try more of the locally produced Cretan Bier. I had to ask about the name of the premises, I saw no Brewing Plant, but a huge Coffee Grinder where this could have been. Perhaps there had been brewing done here, perhaps there will be Bier produced at a new plant on their behalf in the near future.

The Barman produced a Bottle of Solo Imperial IPA for Dimitris and Hector to share. At 10.00% and with an IBU of 100, I may have gotten around to this, later. This was now, still early. This was a – party in a bottle – full on Hop Flavours and no astringency at the back of the throat. So Dry, one could do damage with this.

For reasons unknown, some Hops and Wheat – The Crop? – were produced for my amusement, a glass of something – clear – too, I would keep this until my departure. Time to share another Bier.

Next up was a Bottle of Night Vision (Noctua, Athena, Hellas) a Black IPA that tasted of Chocolate, oh yes! The 7.2% hardly mattered after what came before.

I had to get two things off my chest. Why do the Greeks have – no smoking – signs and ignore them? Even at Crop Roastery-Brewery, a Chap sat a few metres away on the Bar side of the room smoking indoors, which of course is illegal. Dimitris said they have to tolerate this on the Bar side of the room but not the Coffee side. As a servant to nicotine since his youth, Dimitris has now seen the error of his ways and vapes, as a stepping stone to quitting altogether. Good man, spread the word amongst your fellow countrymen. The price of Greek Craft Beer had to be mentioned, I related the farce that is the pricing at Bermondsey and also told the story of Kernel who no longer open their Bar to the public. I was informed that in Greece, Bier tax is based on original gravity – Plato – not the final alcohol by volume (abv). This suits Mythos-Heineken who produce weaker Bier.

The one Scottish Craft Beer stocked at Crop Roastery-Brewery was dismissed quickly.  We do not like how – they – do their business.

The untouched Raki was replaced with a Larger, Colder one. The Barman was now fully part of – The Company. Prokopis related that prior to working here, he had no awareness or knowledge of Bier beyond the mass produced. Both he and Dimitris are counting on more locals discovering what is happening on the Bier Scene. It is their livelihood.

The Raki was called – Fouriaris – she who is in a hurry. (I hope these notes are accurate, at the time of writing I discover that the Solo Imperial IPA is also called this.)

It was time for Hector to stand Dimitris a Bier. He recommended another Solo, this time the Porter. With an IBU of 30, this 7.0%-er was very Smooth, Dry-ish, another pleasant taste experience.

Hector was shown behind the Bar, the fridges and the storage area where the Key Kegs are stored. By this time there was three of us at the Bar, a Russian Chap joined in as and when.

A Liquer was produced – Diplomatico – A Venezuelan Golden Rum, Wonderful! Having checked the price of a bottle, this was thoroughly appreciated. This had become one of those – most memorable nights.

*

*

A Bottle of House Coffee and a t-shirt that will never fit me were put in a bag, Hector’s Takeaway. To say I had been well treated would be the classic understatement. I had already considered that Marg should see Chania next year and discover what she missed. Heraklion is now firmly on the radar, Hector has to get back here. February 2018? What are winter flight prices like to Crete?

Any sensible person would have tottered off home, Hector had another venue to check out.

Bier O’clock was downhill in the direction of my Hotel. Located in a busy side lane, this was in the hub of it all. I found a space at the Bar.

A charming Lady served my Affligem (Affligem / De Smedt – Heineken) and also gave me a generous portion of Tortilla Chips and the tastiest Chilli Dip I have ever experienced. Not Spicy, when is Spanish-Mexican ever Spicy? No Kebap for Hector tonight, in fact, there have been no late night noshes this trip. This 6.8% Blond was sipped, it had to be the last Bier of the day, I was enjoying it here, Uriah Heep, you don’t hear them often in a Bar.

And so to Santorini.

The venues visited today:

Crop Roastery-Brewery – 4 Aretousas st., Iraklio, Crete

Beer O’clock – Par. Minotavrou, Iraklio 712 02

Utopia Cafe/Beer – Chandakos 51, Iraklio 712 02

Curry Park Indian Restaurant – Chandakos 58, Iraklio 712 02

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