Day 58 – Thursday, May 16th Las Vegas to Chicago
Seattle WA to Vancouver (Canada) was the original concept for this trip, not to be. Five nights in Chicago was the fallback option. On the California 2000 school trip, I was offered big money by the airline not to fly back to Glasgow with the kids. That would have been hard to explain to the parents. A first free night in Chicago as an adult was not to be.
With a midday flight to Chicago, we avoided both the early rise or having to hang about all day before heading to Las Vegas Harry Reid International. The Uber from Excalibur was appreciably less than the reverse journey. Our driver, an interesting lady, is/was an event organiser, yet was still putting in hours driving people around Las Vegas.
Flight AA1490 (11.51 – 17.33), the two hour time difference meant a flight of under four hours, plenty of time to get more writing done. Our first of two flights with American Airlines, as with Alaskan, their app wouldn’t let us check-in online, at least they honoured our baggage allowance.
Baggage reclaim at O’Hare International was in the depths, further complicated by ongoing works. Is any airport actually finished? Chicago Transit Authority, time to embrace another travel card, this time – Ventra. The $5.00 fee for the card would be refunded once the card was registered.
The Blue Line took us towards the city. I had time to work out that we needed to change to the Red Line at either Monroe or Jackson. Monroe came first, a good choice. The Transit Police informed us that the Red Line was off northbound, an incident. A bus was suggested, but given the throng when we found the stop, Marg insisted we walk the few blocks our hotel – Freehand Chicago.
Freehand Chicago, a – trendy hostel with a bar and cafe. The Downtown location is why I chose it. So imposing was the entrance, we walked past it. The room was small, comparable to San Francisco, the elevator old, rickety. The bar at the entrance had nothing to keep me, however, to the rear of the building was a substantial bar and seating area. Freehand would do.
Chicago Pizza, Deep Pan Pizza, Hector’s favourite, a reminder that Marg has forbidden me to order Pizza in Italia. It was the time and place to sample the American version, at source. Pizzeria Uno, where – Deep Dish Pizza – was created, just happened to be on the same block as our hotel.
Who planned this trip?
Dusk, not that warm, those who had to were sat outside. Inside was stowed, a popular place. I was surprised that we were not turned away, instead we secured a small table near the door.
The individual pizza was not on, we would share the medium. A pizza without black olives ain’t a Pizza, and so we negotiated the main event. Marg, who might have been hungry, managed to add a complex salad to the order. More Pizza for Hector.
Hector’s first Bier in Chicago was local: Son of Juice (Maplewood Brewing, Chicago IL) at 6.3% was the only NEIPA on tap. Imagine a UK Pizza chain serving New England style Bier! Suitably hazy, the hop hit could have been more, still, there was nought wrong here. Mosaic, Mosaic Cryo, Simcoe, Simcoe Cryo and Nugget, were the hops.
This would be the only Bier of the day, so almost a teetotal day?
The Pepperoni Pizza was topped with abundant black olives and green peppers. It looked the part, how misleading was this? This would be Hector’s first and last Chicago Pizza. Why? Because it wasn’t Pizza, but biscuit. The whole point of Deep Pan is thick dough, so where was this invented?
It was a chilly evening outside in Chicago, especially after the comfort of Las Vegas. We retraced our steps down N State St towards Chicago River. We found the Red Line entrance to Grand on our block, Hector had plans for this tomorrow.
Having reversed the flow, Lake Michigan drains into Chicago River. The riverside skyline seemed slightly familiar. As with San Francisco, Chicago feels like a proper city, I had never planned to come here, pizza aside, there was an air of optimism, five nights may well be justified.
Back at the hotel, I fetched my netbook and chargers and retreated to the grand seating area and bar on the ground floor. Other guests were like minded. Not a bad place to chill, a pity the water to hand, was not.
Restaurant and hotel bar visited today:
Pizzeria Uno – 29 E Ohio Street, Chicago, IL 60611
Freehand Chicago – 19 E Ohio Street, Chicago, IL 60611
Day 59 – Friday, May 17th
Chicago in daylight, a blank canvas, a day to be tourists. After her early morning exercise venture Downtown, Marg returned appreciating the location of our modest accommodation and insistent that we do a boat trip. High places and boats, here we go again.
Before all that, there was a journey on the Red Line to the north of the city where the Hector had identified the motherlode of Curry. En route we passed Wrigley Field, the Chicago Cubs baseball ground. Some had suggested we visit this, why? Professional rounders, not a real sport. There was a particularly handsome chap on the metro.
Alighting at Loyola University, we took Bus 155 westwards – Devon & Campbell.
Devon Avenue was everything I hoped for, restaurants aplenty, I could even narrow these down to Pakistani. Alas, being early Friday afternoon, choice #1 was closed – Friday prayers. Heading back east, there was a fallback, Sabri Nihari, this was grander than Hector’s preferred Curry Cafe venues, needs must.
The food was wonderful, authentic Punjabi Fayre, and Marg’s Fish choice was way larger than the snack she hoped for. That would sate the appetite, for a while.
Back Downtown, Marg led me to the quay where the river boats ply their trade. Marg seemed to have a particular vessel in mind, nevertheless, we ended up with tickets for – Chicago’s Classic Lady, leaving soon.
Being warm enough to sit up front, we sat outside. Who planned this trip such that we would reach mainland USA when winter would have passed in the Mid-West?
The boat journey was all about the architecture, the voice on the tannoy was a retired architect, city planner, what would he know? He knew everything, and was honest when it came to the brutality of the 1960s.
Built along more classical lines, the Wrigley Building was a standout. We resisted booing as we passed a certain former US President’s Tower, twice.
The bridges constructed in the style of – trunnion bascule – are part of Chicago‘s character. The Kinzie Street railroad bridge may be permanently raised, it remains fully functional, as are the rest.
Having sat up front, well it wasn’t a ‘plane journey, we were able to secure quality photos without obstruction. Our guide took his well deserved bow at the end of the journey.
Back on dry land we headed along the Riverwalk. A refreshment was required, Marg had already located Chicago Brewhouse.
A bar-restaurant, with the majority sitting outside, we managed to acquire a table indoors. The service was abysmal, it was clear some staff had no idea what they were about. The Hector was already miffed, Brewhouse by name, not by nature. Why do so many venues claim to be brewpubs?
With no Bier to be had at source, I decided to maintain my custom of after Curry, comes Cider.
Rose Cider (Northman Cider Co., Chicago IL) at 6.5% was made from Michigan apples and Midwestern grapes, so part wine. Rose tinted, it was dry, had a decent body and was quite refreshing. Serving it in plastic did not go down too well.
The Green Line took us a couple of stops to Adams/Wabash. Our walk thereafter took us past a crowd of undesirables, Industry Ales Brewpub was the objective. If there was a brewery plant here, it was well hidden, but sources do include a photo of this.
Downtown in the Chicago Loop, this was quite a pukka establishment, as much a cocktail bar as a restaurant. Being here for drinks only, we were guided to bar stools. I would have headed there anyway, more chance of finding out about the place, as it happens, I have little more information.
With six house Biers and a further four guests on tap, at least the Hazy was from Industry Ales.
Marg had water, unless my Bier choice was wonderful, I didn’t feel we would be staying long.
Out of Focus (Industry Ales, Chicago IL) a Hazy IPA at 5.0% might be flattered by the photo. This Bier lacked the full haze but packed a hoppy punch. Citra, Sabro and HBC 472 were the hops. There was nothing wrong here, the body was decent for the abv, as ever, I was looking for something better.
Franklin Tap lay six blocks west. Instead of journeying two stops anticlockwise on the Loop, we walked. An opperchancity to see more of Chicago at street level.
Franklin Tap was everything the two previous venues were not. 100 Craft Beers – advertised, large, spacious, and most of all – welcoming. Our table was close enough to the bar to see the action, and also get served.
Our waiter was up for the challenge of making Hector happy, he knew the Bier, with two taps standing out, directions were given, then there was the list of cans. How long would Marg last?
First up: Juicy Bits (WeldWerks Brewing Co., Greely CO) a NEIPA at 6.7% featured Mosaic, Citra and Eldorado. With the full milkshake haze and a body to match the abv, the mouthfeel was spoiled partly by the sharpness. The required hop hit was present. Had I stuck with this, the palate would have adjusted, and subsequently, I may have celebrated this Bier more, but choices…
Marg was hungry, and so Chips and Guacamole would accompany her Ginger Ale. I may have helped here.
Shower Thoughts (Old Irving Brewing Co., Chicago IL), a NEDIPA at 8.5% had the rights US hops: Nectaron, Citra and Mosaic. Fruity, rather than hoppy, this was not the perfect Bier. Again, more might have altered this viewpoint. More was possible, our second night in Chicago, the feet were planted under the table; too often on this trip it has been have a Bier and move on, not tonight.
One can stood out in the extensive list of possibilities, our waiter could see where I was heading.
Placeholder Text (Phase Three Brewing Company, Elmhurst IL) a DDH-NEIPA at 8.0% is what I had been looking for. Here was a perfectly balanced hoppy Bier, the flavours being right in the style. Poured properly by Hector, the full milkshake haze was attained, this was smooth, wonderful. The hops: Citra, Enigma, Galaxy, El Dorado and Mosaic. Straight five! – as someone back home is prone to saying.
*
*
Marg ordered a Franklin Mule, Hector was going nowhere anytime soon.
Having had yesterday off, and to some extent, the day before also, another two of these were accrued. A pity the brewery was so far away.
Despite ordering on my phone, the staff were always attentive. I did like having the bill to keep.
The twelve minute walk to the Red Line at Jackson was painless. This was a good day, but then how many have not been? Two days ago we were flying over Grand Canyon, every day, every Bier, is different.
Brewery, bars and restaurant visited today:
Industry Ales Brewpub – 230 S Wabash Ave, Chicago, IL 60604
Chicago Brewhouse – 31 W Riverwalk, Chicago’s Riverwalk, Chicago, IL 60601-1730
Franklin Tap – 325 S Franklin St, Chicago, IL 60606
Sabri Nihari Restaurant – 2502 W Devon Ave, Chicago, IL 60659
Day 60 – Saturday, May 18th
Day 60, the three quarter mark, life on the road has become the norm. at least the third day in Chicago means we know our way around, and there’s no more flying until Tuesday. Today it was time to indulge Marg, the free zoo at Abraham Lincoln Park to the north of us, was a bit too far to walk. Bus 22 at nearby Dearborn & Grand took us to Clark & Lincoln, one could kinda tell we were in the right place on alighting.
I don’t know how many bird photos I have taken since arriving in Singapore almost two months ago. The basking turtles were something different.
Before heading to the north end of the park and the actual zoo, there was the Ulysses S. Grant Monument and the Chicago skyline behind us.
On reaching the zoo perimeter, we headed west, across another pond lay a pit-stop, Café Brauer.
Finding the entrance was a frustrating challenge, no not this way. Thereafter, we were treated to a display of total indifference by the serving staff. I have oft wondered how check-in and despatch staff at airports can man their posts and never make eye contact with those waiting. Café Brauer may well be their training school. Eventually, we established there was no room at the inn and so headed next door to The Ice Cream Shoppe. There are no prizes for guessing what was purchased.
Zoo time, given that it was free there can be no complaints. After Honolulu Zoo the Hector was not keen on spending needless funds to see animals already seen. I correct myself, at Honolulu Zoo, animals not seen.
No giraffes, Marg’s favourite, the rhinoceros had to suffice.
The apes stole the show.
Actually, my lasting memory of this zoo visit was the pond life. An extended family appeared to be on the same route, at the same pace, we couldn’t shake them off. I don’t understand why when visiting a zoo, one’s denims have to be at half mast. An underwear sponsor? The females in the entourage were needlessly – loud. We heard their inane comments whether we wanted to or not. The weans were out of control, save the over-sized one in a pram. Pond life, but maybe a higher class of citizen than those featuring in what follows.
Some Like it Hot – what an educational movie. Apart from introducing a very young Hector to the joy of Marilyn Monroe, this movie also made me aware of Chicago for the first time, and what made it famous: The Saint Valentine’s Day Massacre, The Mob. I had planned the day such that we would walk back and take in the site of the Massacre. Prohibition, down with that sort of thing. Al Capone, we visited his temporary home at Alcatraz. In Las Vegas, I eschewed The Mob Museum on the assumption that Chicago would offer more. I got that all wrong.
The death toll, seven. At the OK Corral it was three. American mainland history, more are taken out in random shootings in the current era. The garage at 2122 N Clark St, where the machine guns did their job, has long gone. The site is open ground, but a chalk mark on the pavement gave a clue. 2120 N Clark St remains.
Marg was hungry. When this daily declaration is made, the Hector has ten minutes to find an appropriate menu. Being mid afternoon, not everywhere was open yet. Two doors down from 2120 was Ricardo Enotica, an Italian restaurant, Marg’s favourite.
The restaurant was just opening, the young lady who greeted us at the door to the empty premises asked if we had a reservation. A table on the pavement was offered, no way, Pedro. She was for turning us away, the Hector was not having this. A chap realised he was about to lose business, the window table was ours, as long as we were off within the hour. How fast can you serve us?
We both had Carbonara, served by – Hector – tasty.
Lake Michigan, it was time to go to the beach and so back through Lincoln Park.
I still don’t think Marg believes that this is fresh water. The police were searching all those who crossed the bridge over Dusable Lakeshore Drive, no booze on the beach. I suppose grass, marram or otherwise, was OK?
We walked down North Avenue Beach to the Pier which resembled a recumbent spit. From here, the Chicago skyline was an irresistible view.
It was approaching Bier o’ clock, a few venues between our current locus and home were en route. How does this keep happening? We walked west then south through what is now called the Old Town, a pukka area, so much for Burgess’ Concentric Urban Model. If one could afford a hotel in this area, I would recommend it. A Saturday afternoon, there was the buzz of city life.
Old Town Pour House boasted – 30+ local taps – there must be something here worthy of the Hector.
A large premises, comparable to a Wetherspoons, we were seated at a high table on the bar side of the room. The welcome water went down well, but it took some effort to secure it. A dizzy waitress.
Space Dust (Elysian Brewing Company, Seattle WA) was hardly local. A gold IPA with a chill haze at 8.3% and a whopping 73 IBU, was stepping back in time. This was a proper dry tasting West Coast IPA, the hops, Amarillo.
Starting with a big hitter, Marg was relieved when I said one here was enough.
Continuing south and back on Clark Street, the Clark St Ale House, it was busy. We squeezed on to stools at the bar, from there, getting served would not be a problem.
Le Griffon (Hidden Hand, Naperville IL & Old Irving Brewing Co., Chicago IL) is a Hazy IPA / NEIPA. With the full milkshake haze, and a big hop hit, this was smooth, delicious. The hops: Nectaron, HBC 586 and Amarillo. Yesterday’s Old Irving brew was a bit short of being stunning, today’s got the straight five!
Having found this splendid Bier, there’s the inevitable thought of more. The ongoing activities at the rear of the room made this unlikely. We moved to a table near the door, away from the noise and particularly loud females. How long had they been out?
With Centennial Crafted Beer and Eatery just around the corner, there was further incentive to move along.
Sat at the bar, thirty six taps to choose from, two NEIPAs. I’ll never know if I chose the better one.
Gummypalooza (Noon Whistle Brewing Co., Naperville IL) a Hazy IPA / NEIPA at 6.7% had the full milkshake haze and a substantial body. This was easy drinking despite the sharp mouthfeel. Citra, Cashmere, Idaho 7 and Sabro were the hops. A second Bier from a Naperville brewery, looks like this could be town worth visiting.
Three bars, it was time to have a Bier at source. Along from our hotel, Freehand Chicago, which we could now see the full extent of the building, as in upwards, lies Crushed By Giants Brewing Company. The escalator on the first floor, second floor in USA, was like visiting a mall cinema.
This was the largest Chicago venue visited yet. Given the crowds we had left, this place was eerily quiet. Again, a seat at the bar, the brewing plant was in sight, a proper brewpub.
Neon Werewolf, a Hazy IPA at 6.8% had the haze but not the body. Too thin for the abv, this Bier could be put in the dangerous category, too easy to swallow. The brewery tasting notes claim a – soft mouthfeel – then this is not what I seek in a NEIPA. Citra and Simcoe are reportedly the hops.
The choices here were not great. Something made me go west once again, mouthwash or just the need for a goodnight Bier?
User Error, a 8.3% DIPA was amber, clear and had an almost burnt flavour, not smoky. Mosaic, Galaxy and Cashmere were present, an abuse of hops? – was recorded as I drank this.
The Bier count was now five, American pints, there was still life in the old Hector. Marg too, was it the sight of Bally’s Casino that had Marg accompany me past the door to our hotel?
Snickers Bar & Grill opens early and closes late, it was tempting to have a marathon session here. A – dive bar – is how the Americans call such venues, as was Suzy Wong’s Hideaway back in Honolulu HI.
We found seats at a window table with decent views of the TVs which, for once, was showing proper sport.
This would keep Marg amused, as did the Baileys which had subliminally, or otherwise been planted in Marg’s consciousness. Else, she was watered out.
There was a long list of tap Bier I did not want to drink. The can list had something familiar.
Son of Juice (Maplewood Brewing, Chicago IL) at 6.3% was had two nights ago at Pizzeria Uno.
I persuaded the compliant waitress that I should pour my own. Poured properly, here was a NEIPA. I knew this Bier had potential, now the Hector was happy, and today’s underlying frustration was tempered. It appears The Famous officially came second in the SPL today. There’s always the Scottish Cup Final.
Let’s have another Son of Juice.
Brewery, bars, restaurant and cafe visited today:
Crushed By Giants Brewing Company – 600 N Michigan Ave 2nd Floor, Chicago, IL 60611
Old Town Pour House – 1419 N Wells St, Chicago, IL 60610
Clark St Ale House – 742 N Clark St, Chicago, IL 60610
Centennial Crafted Beer and Eatery – 733 N La Salle Dr, Chicago, IL 60654
Snickers Bar & Grill – 448 N State St, Chicago, IL 60654
The Ice Cream Shoppe – 2012 N Stockton Drive, Chicago, IL 60614
Ricardo Enotica – 2116 N Clark St, Chicago, IL 60614
Day 61 – Sunday, May 19th
Day 62 – Monday, May 20th
Back to : Chicago Homepage
Back to : Las Vegas Days 54 – 57
Continue to : Toronto Days 63 – 67
Flying back south to 
Alaskan Airlines flight AS600, a two hour flight departing at 14.34. This meant a somewhat leisurely morning journey to SeaTac. As we began the lengthy walk from the Metro to the terminal, so we were tooted by the driver of the wally-trolley. He had two spaces, we may as well use them. And so for the first time, the Hector was driven at the beeping snails pace through the garage to the terminal. It is a ridiculous walk otherwise.
Once again, a volcano in the Cascade Range was prominent beneath us. I hoped to see Mt. St. Helens, having taught about the 1980 eruption for thirty four years. Alas, the telltale gap on the south western rim is not as well formed in my photo, so who knows?
The landscape gave way to desert, 
From the ‘plane, I could see both Luxor and Excalibur as we taxied. So near yet so … in two previous visits to 
This was my second stay at Excalibur. The long queue to check in was as expected. Check-in online involved registering with MGM who own a swathe of hotels in
The view from the room was identical to 2000, looking back towards Harry Reid International Airport. In 2000, it was called McCarran, his legacy is no longer kosher. 
The Tropicana Hotel is coming down, so our Uber driver informed us, as is Mirage. I cannot believe The Strip is going to soon resemble Sauchiehall Street (Glasgow, Scotland).
We emerged from Excalibur into that brief moment of twilight. The exterior of the hotel is impressive. Only after I left in 2000, did I discover there’s a swimming pool, tomorrow. We found a stall selling tour tickets. The helicopter ride to Grand Canyon was instantly dismissed, another ‘plane ride, just what we need, affordable just. I could have purchased four return flights from 
On the far side, The Park Vegas, well sort of, but hey-ho – Beerhaus! Marg was hungry!
Across the street, the Hard Rock Cafe, who in time will occupy the Mirage site. Then there was – The Scottish Brewery – whose name shall never be written in these pages. It would be ironic if they sold the best range of NEIPA in 
And so to take on The Strip, and the throng. Bellagio, Caesar’s Palace, Mirage, Treasure Island, all in a line on the west side of the southern end of The Strip. There were scantily clad ladies who wanted their photos taken, why? 
Bellagio Fountains, magnificent, and free! Con Te Partiro an emotional highlight. That the show is every fifteen minutes is an bonus, little hanging about. 
Caesar’s Palace, morning glory, silly human race … sang Jon Anderson (Yes). 
What do we do tomorrow night, after all, we’ll have done – 
Marg found a spot, I insisted we move, knowing exactly where the best place to observe the show was located. 
I could get a job as a tour guide, or a photographer. Hector is retired. 
Beer Park occupies a balcony in – Paris Las Vegas – directly opposite Bellagio. A rooftop sports-bar is the official description, an excellent viewpoint, better if one can secure a table close to the edge. Access was a bit of a roundabout, well an elevator from inside the hotel was required to access the bar. We’ll always have Paris. 
To depart, the obvious route out was now accessible, exterior stairs to a gate, previously locked, on the side-walk. The walk down this section of the east side of The Strip ain’t so interesting, loads of yoofs drinking what appears to be endless litre cardboard cups of melting ice. 
Perhaps it was Hector’s erudite choice of Bier, look at the alternatives, the barman warmed to us, Marg especially. A record breaking Baileys was poured, minimal ice, maximum liquid. 
I liked the spot, an opperchancity to oversee the gamblers on the casino floor, the study of which was prohibited on previous visits. Nothing like as busy as 2000 or 2009, where are the peeps?
When will the pool open? – we asked those who looked as if they should know, e.g. the life guards, the towel handlers. Nobody knew nothing. Nobody appeared to care. No swim today.
Investing $20.00 in the three day DEUCE bus ticket felt like a good idea. The three, at least, buses planned for today would justify this. The Hector hates faffing about for tickets. The first machine encountered wasn’t talking, advice was sought from a municipal worker who looked as if he would know. The DEUCE ain’t fast or necessarily punctual, but who’s in a hurry?
Divine Dosa, an 
On departure, what was that taste in the mouth I didn’t like? Back on the DEUCE.
Visiting – The Mob Museum – was considered, but with 
Maybe those in the know stay in this part of the city, however, the queue at the DEUCE terminus confirmed that many were heading south to The Strip, regardless. We were not for joining this, a crowd of mostly – yoofs, instead, ice-cream became the objective. 
Across the road, we had passed Main Street Station. Not a train buff, but railway architecture at times is noted by the Hector. The Triple 7 Restaurant and Microbrewery lies inside, but there was no promise of anything different. Instead, we headed south towards the Arts District.
As is written, and shall be written again, in 
A 7.3% NEIPA was perhaps not the best choice for a first Bier of the day but was the only one – in the style. 
Fewer choices, limited indoor seating, one barman, one other customer, crucially, there was no – Hazy.
Able Baker Brewing
The food counter was as busy as the bar. No truck here, they do their own, the usual fayre.
One couldn’t miss the ducks. Atomic Duck – was explained, the names of many a Bier being a pun. Split Bill at 5.7% was Hector’s choice.
A Hazy IPA without the haze, was this yet another example of the bar staff not knowing they have to roll the barrel each day? With Citra and Mosaic, West Coast was coming to mind yet again, so – dry – was this Bier. Were all these Biers really so dry, or had Hector’s palate been contaminated with – cabbage – and this was distorting all?
A large corner unit, this was once again a venue which felt like home, well American home. And once again, no Hazy.
Early evening, a black sky, and helicopters endlessly doing the loop over the city for those who think this is worth it. Take the lift up Stratosphere, but try taking a decent photo with the vibration from the overhead roller-coaster. So 2000.
Having arrived at Beer Park last night just on closing, giving them another chance seemed sensible. Who knows, I might even get a glass. 
We alighted from the near empty bus at the Eiffel Tower, only in 
Having had the Contact Haze (Elysian Brewing Company, Seattle WA) last night here, why not have a different Hazy, after all, they have been hard to find today.
I enjoyed the Bier, Marg her cocktail, and the view of Bellagio once again. This time we were up for getting our photos taken and chose an obliging passer-by. OK, Beer Park, we’ve done it.
Back on the DEUCE, and the fourth trip meant we were now quids in. With seemingly no stop directly outside Excalibur, or did we just miss it, Luxor was next. I had intended bringing Marg here to show her the replicas of what we have seen with our own eyes in Upper Egypt. Excalibur is all about the exterior, at Luxor, they have an interesting interior also.
Marg was hungry. 
The aptly titled Public House had plenty of space and no smoking. Smoking had not been an issue at any of our ports of call today, normal rules apply, but not in gambling areas. 
More Contact Haze for Hector, this Bier is growing on me.
The enclosed walkway between Luxor and Excalibur eventually led us past – The Buffet. Open until late afternoon, this is not what the Hector wants. If we are going to do a Vegas Buffet, and in 2000, I think I did Caesar’s Palace, then let’s make a night of it.
Apparently, if one visits 
Brunch, in our hotel. Adjacent to the elevators for the Royal Tower is Johnny Rockets, a cafe selling American food. There was a consensus that it was time to embrace this. Marg had pulled meat in a bun, not Hector’s thing. It may look like a burger, is served in too sweet a bun, but technically ain’t. 
Heading back out into the heat, the lower east side of The Strip became Marg’s focus of attention, but not before the Hector had taken photos of Beerhaus in the daylight. 
It was approaching Bier o’clock, but with our big night out later, this was postponed. Coffee. Greenwich Village Coffee popped up on Google Maps, it had to be in New York Casino, the blue dot got us there, eventually. This impressed.
Out of sight of the casino floor lies a mock-up of, well, Greenwich Village. The 
There was a time-out back at the room, then the moment to embrace the glad rags. We’re going to a show!
The band took to the stage, three chaps out font with two sets of teeth, one and a half lookalikes. 
Maurice, in the required hat and perfect teeth, was the main man, compère, joker. If there was a Beatles-band tribute act needing a new – John – then our Robin could equally have auditioned. 
Everyone knows the music of the Bee Gees, or Lay Tossers … Clive Anderson’s interview was twenty seven years ago. Having watched that infamous interview again, it was all going so well. One person’s TV career ended that night.
Too many medleys was my only criticism of the performance, Massachusetts, we’re heading there soon, did not get the full respect I feel it deserves. I’ve Gotta Get a Message to You, Tragedy, Alone, Love You Inside Out, Words, Too Much Heaven, You Should Be Dancing, Nights on Broadway, Immortality, To Love Somebody, More Than a Woman, I wasn’t making notes, but all the old songs were covered. A video montage of the – swinging sixties – featured a British DJ whose image has been erased from television. As it happens. 
The performance was polished, humorous, musical, entertaining. For the finale, the Saturday Night Fever era, those who wished, were invited stage left to an area which had been demarcated for dancing. Women love to dance, Marg was off, leading the way. 
Beerhaus, my new local, time to try a CAN.
Back to Pour 24, well it’s difficult to avoid it. Creatures of habit, we sat in – our spot – at the bar. 
Three nights, three different barmen, no chance of another Baileys overdose? 
Bars and cafes visited today:
The last day in 
For reasons unknown, there was a long lie in. With a mid-afternoon flight there was still time to kill. Marg was hungry. The fast food eateries in the corridor connecting Excalibur and Luxor should have something simple and wet enough for a Hector to eat. With a big meal planned for later, there was no point over-indulging this early. Asian was therefore dismissed along with the usual food to be avoided. Starbucks had a yoghurt-cereal creation. Why was securing a seat so difficult? The setting was naff after the luxury of our hotel in Honolulu.
Nobody told us that de Havilland Canada DHC-6 N190GC was fifty four years old. A vintage ‘plane, and compared to the similar brand that flew us around 
A thunderous take-off had us airborne, too far to see 
The stock aerial photo of Hoover Dam is one I used in teaching for years. To finally take my own was a moment of fulfillment. How I could have done with this in my slide/Power Point shows – here’s one I took earlier.
On my first visit in 2000, I walked across the top of the dam on US 93 to the 
A bumpy ride does not begin to describe this flight. As anticipated, after we left the security of the plateau beneath us and reached the mesa and ridges, we were being bounced around the sky. 
Having seen Grand Canyon from South Rim, I knew the Colorado would appear as little more than a stream in the depths. That we secured so many decent photos was quite surprising. The late afternoon sunshine also helped, an earlier flight would have meant haze.
The sedimentary layers do mean one is looking back in time. Uplift, weathering and erosion created all this. Everyone should see the Colorado River and Grand Canyon.
Dropped back at the other entrance to Excalibur, the light was perfect. Without the gimmicky towers, Excalibur us just a big hotel.
Long trousers once again for our big night out. Buca Di Beppo is the Italian restaurant in Excalibur. We had a reservation, this meant were taken into the heart of the restaurant.
The menu rang alarms, the prices are ridiculous. How can they charge this for Lasagne and Garlic Bread? The waitress explained that a portion is to share, two of us might manage one portion. A challenge. Only at home do I ever have a satisfying quantity of Lasagne. I may have glanced at the wine menu, Sparking Water would suffice. 
The Lasagne was moist with abundant tomato sauce. At home, the Hector defies all and cooks a cheese sauce. A decent portion, we destroyed it. 
Then there was the Garlic Bread, the most expensive Bread on the planet per slice? Let’s not let the price spoil the meal. Apart from when we have been put up, our stay in 
There had to be a final Bier in 
Unable to use the check-in kiosk for Alaska Airlines, we had to find a person to process us. Elmer came up trumps, he was no fud. Not only was our baggage allowance recognised, he added further notes to ensure that our flight out of 
The Cascade Mountains came into view from our vantage point at some 30,00ft. Mt. Shasta or Medicine Lake Volcano was the first encountered. This was followed soon after by Crater Lake, I never thought I’d see it in the flesh as it were. 
Mt. St. Helens was on the starboard side of the ‘plane, so the most famous mountain in the range was missed. However, Mt. Rainier loomed large, half the height of our flying altitude, and much closer on our descent to SeaTac Airport. We would see it every time we looked east from Downtown 
The Green Line (1) took us from SeaTac to International District/Chinatown. On alighting, it was straight to the 
Bus 4 to Belltown Inn took some time to arrive. Once again we were treated to a psycho drama involving a vagrant and a do-gooder. Our stop opposite Belltown Inn was adjacent to a congregation of down and outs. The fictional Elliott Bay Towers in Belltown is where Frasier lived. I don’t recall the vagrant being outside his apartment block.
Accommodation in 
Back Downtown, it was time to show Marg some of Pike Place Market and the sunset. To the east, Mount Rainier, long overdue a performance. Fortunately there have been no overtures of late.
Starbucks, the original, was promised for a later time, it was definitely Bier o’clock, and 
With acrophobia, there are few places where one can stand in these constructions and not melt. Let’s get aff. 
Reuben’s Brews Taproom 
Hazealicious at 6.0% felt like a decent starting point. A Hazy IPA / NEIPA, with Citra, Strata and Mosaic, this was truly wonderful. The full milkshake haze, the body, this is what I struggled to find so often in 
Just the three NEIPAs around the 7.0% mark. Same ritual. Again, this was a large, welcoming venue, but I cannot verify of there was actually brewing at this site.
Pulpatine at 7.0% could not have been more Hazy unless it has been pure mango juice The photo does not do it justice. Another Bier I immediately wanted more of, to think I could have still been at 
Dr. Stan and I reached this late in the day 
El Dorado at 6.4%, a Hazy IPA, the board was giving away no more. Momentarily, HBC 586, Citra Incognito, Mosaic and El Dorado hops were confirmed. A step down from what came before this felt a bit thin for the abv, Remember, on another day, I would still have been at 
A block and a bit back west, we came across Wheelie Pop Brewing, 
A choice from three became Under Under (No Boat Brewing Company, Snoqualmie WA) at 6.8% featured Nelson Sauvin and Motueka hops. Under Under is reportedly an ever changing brew featuring 
Whilst Curry at 
Well organised, there was a lady marshal who engaged with everyone as they reached the front of the line. Having paid little attention before, there was now time to take stock of what was happening. The queue was advancing steadily, how were they turning people over this quickly? Was there a rear door through which customers were departing? What about those who wished to have a second coffee, or just sit and relax? 
Our Hostess, Anila, was not present as we once again took our seats, momentarily that changed. It was Marg who 
Mutual respect, Curry-Heute features prominently at 
Big Time Brewery and Alehouse
Stoup Brewing
Keeping to the one brewery, one Bier model, the next venue was being considered. I didn’t have to go far. Directly across the street lies – 
Understandably quiet mid afternoon, there was still a good vibe here. Burning – by – The War on Drugs – had the Hector reach for SoundHound. Meanwhile there was Bier.
World Wide Wallabies at 5.5%, another 
I have certainly been on the southern stretch of this highway on a day trip to Tijuana from Los Angeles back in 2000. One day in Mexico, make that an afternoon. 
Tonight was the last opperchancity to let rip in 
Here Today Brewery & Kitchen
Two Player Mode
As we were staying put, time to try something different. 
As we indulged ourselves in 
Cosmic Pulp
We had an excellent hour in their company.
Joe Biden, President of the 
The Museum of Flight is not just an aeroplane museum, the first hall we entered was about space. 
It is written that after landing on the Moon in 1969, Neil Armstrong visited Kitty Hawk NC where the Wright Bothers made the World’s first powered flight, allegedly, as recently as 1903. 
He had flown a B-17 over 
Hector was home, behold the Messerschmidt Bf-109, a ‘plane so rugged in design it looks menacing. 
The edges say – stealth – yet this Mach 3 bomber, used as a reconnaissance jet, may well never have been used in anger. 
As we stood at the bus stop outside what was the original Boeing HQ, so Mt. Rainier loomed, nearer than seen already. 
The Pike Brewing Company
The interior of 
Despite Hector’s warning, Marg ordered Root Bier. Bubblegum is how it tastes to me, Marg went as far as – not pleasant. 
Tomorrow Las Vegas NV. 
May the fourth, as the Americans like to call it, the dressing up parade was cancelled. A TV channel informed us that today’s 9
Six blocks north-ish, passing Union Square, then one and a bit blocks west, spotting the vagrant was not difficult. Who else would be on the street in this downpour? 
Maßlogiskeit in Maßen, nobody had got it yet. Finally, two people understood the motto of Le Tour du Monde en 80 Jours. Even translated to English, I still don’t think Marg does. Obscure, moi? I definitely did not want everyone we met reading it aloud in English. Roll on Canada. 
Having already done – the beach – I headed towards the first brewery of the day – 
Had I got a Bier it would have been a most uncomfortable drinking experience. Better to leave, at least I had confirmed this place had survived, my favourite 
Behold the pier for the Alcatraz ferry. Two tickets were booked for Tuesday, hopefully more clement than today.
Photos of not the Golden Gate were secured, as ever Marg was looking for anything in the water that showed signs of life. 
Rain has been the curse of many a day on this trip, and it was back with a vengeance. No sooner had an Asian chap taken our photos than another massive downpour forced us to retreat indoors. 
Embarcadero is way longer than I remembered. I knew 
With a clear blue sky, it was time to head inland and discover what the new had to offer. The BART took us five stops from Embarcadero to Church Street. From there it was a short walk to Wilkommen by Black Hammer Brewing Company. 
This Bierhaus was attempting to capture the feeling of being in a Deutche Bierhalle, without having the acreage. Multiple taps, but only five on. Hardly acceptable on a Saturday.
It was a fifteen minute walk, mostly flat, to 
Hector was not last out of
Conveniently, around the corner was the multi-tap bar – The Crafty Fox Alehouse – a proper pub. We took seats at the far end of the bar, a tactic that worked well at Suzie Wong’s Hideaway in
Meanwhile, Fargal was annotating Marg’s paper map with suggestions for walks and ice-cream. Whose trip is this? Some new Bier places I had spotted were evaluated, it looks as though we might be heading further west than anticipated. But on another day. Fargal was good company, it broke the monotony of just the two of us as we are scheduled to be for another couple of weeks.
A five Bier day, and US pints at best, not a huge intake. Time to plot the route home.
A wild Saturday night in 
Once again, there was no great desire to go out early. With a blue sky, today felt like a good day to visit Golden Gate Bridge. The Fargal nominated Golden Gate Park would mean going west also. The opperchancity of another Curry fell into my lap. I received a – Stop Press – from Curryspondent Bill. With Brothers everywhere, he had been trying to convince me that the best Curry to be had was across in Berkley/Oakland. However, – 
How many photos does one take in the digital age? As many as necessary until – the one – is captured. 
Bus 28 to Judah and 19
Five Rivers Indian Cuisine 
Having done Fargal’s ice-cream, it was time for Fargal’s park. Golden Gate Park is quite a bit south of the Bridge. A decidedly linear park, it runs east-west. It took some time to ascertain which were roads and which were paths on Google Maps. The Botanical Garden was Marg’s first objective. It was closed. Late Sunday afternoon, who goes to a park on a Sunday? 
We took in some of the music at the impressive bandstand. The atmosphere was heavily polluted with the smoke of a certain, now legal, substance which we have been encountering since arriving in 
Woods Lowside is another taproom for Woods Beer & Wine Company, the brewery is to the east towards the Mission District. 
Dry Cider Sonoma Blend at 8.5% totally hit the spot. This may well have been the driest Cider ever. Sensibly, there was only the one.
I had to approach Mr. Popular, he confirmed the fuzzy photo was of our barman this evening, hence the photo. 
Whilst 
Today, Alcatraz, however, the sea lions at Pier 39 were probably just as interesting for Marg. 
Marg was hungry. The fruit stall was the first stop. Having walked the length of Pier 39, which felt like a theme from an imaginary western, we chose another Boudin Bakery outlet for brunch. 
Established as a prison in 1934, Al Capone, an early guest, completed only 4.5 years of his life sentence on this island before syphilitic brain damage saw him transferred to another penitentiary. Charming as Burt Lancaster may have potraid the charcter, Stroud was not a pleasant chap.
The exterior photos captured Golden Gate Bridge in the distance plus the nearby mainland. So near, yet so far. Cold water, no chance of surviving the swim, they say. 
Back on dry land, Colt Tower, possibly 
Hector was hungry. 
There may have been no laurel or hearty welcome, but after waiting an extraordinary amount of time, the required photo was captured. Another classic example of people not being aware of what is happening around them. 
Magnolia Brewing
It was a few blocks north to brewery #2, 
Whilst Marg was out for her morning exercise, where awareness and confidence had taken her as far as Embarcadero, the Hector was considering the next flight. Alaska Airlines once again will not permit an on-line check-in. I did find a chat link on their app and so engaged an agent. The full story of our being ripped off at 
Having spotted Aquarium of the Bay on previous visits to Fisherman’s Wharf – Pier 39, Marg was not for leaving 
Bernal Heights, suitably high and the roads decidedly steep. Whilst the driver negotiated obstacles, Marg and Hector were treated to details of the intimate lifestyle of three young ladies. Loud voices, no shame, the American way. 
Marg was hungry. A portion of three Fish Tacos made Hector’s Buffalo Wings look a bit insignificant. It was a miracle that we secured these. The bar at Hotel Adagio was full of suits, seating was minimal. A high table was offered by the chap who served us initially, he disappeared and we relocated to a more comfortable locus. In keeping with our bus journey, a chap was regaling the entire bar with details of his life that we had no interest in. I pity his lady collleague who had to hear all this, and do the noddies. 
And so for the final Bier in 
Which ever way one wishes to track them, this is the halfway point of our – Around The World In 80 Days. Flying across the Pacific Ocean, better done in two parts. 
There was a sense of relief as land was spotted, the longest flight the Hector has made across open water. What was taken to be Kalaeloa Airport, adjacent to Nimitz Beach, was flown over as we approached Daniel K. Inouye International Airport. 21.3ºN, we’re back in the tropics, no summer or winter, just the matter of sporadic rainfall. Too much Geography, and if anyone has spotted the pun above, apologies. 
Hotel Ala Moana Honolulu was chosen for two reasons. Firstly, Waikiki is walkable to the south and east whilst the interesting locations for Bier lie to the north and west, no need for travel cards. Also, this hotel is part of the Accor group. After many night in an Ibis, Silver status has been maintained, hopefully securing early check-in, a bonus. 
Off The Wall is a pour your own venue, as first encountered some years back in Riga, Latvija.
Two Hazys stood out in the array: 
With good advice from the waitress I managed to get a decent wad of meat, noodles and an accompanying broth. This may well have been the best Asian food I’d tasted since 
The walk to 
The chap behind the bar at 
As I said, the chap was excellent, realising I had travelled a long way to sample his Bier, a decent serving of the 6.9% 
Rise and shine! A beautiful day, a beautiful location, an ocean view. Marg was up and out for her morning exercise/constitutional, the Hector caught up with some writing. Indeed, last night the extensive lobby proved to be an excellent place to get some more done. Huge tables with power sockets, as if the need was anticipated. Ala Moana Honolulu is quite a hotel. 
The lunchtime deal permitted two coverings for the abundant Wings and free top ups. 
Heading south-east towards Waikiki, we crossed the Ala Wai Canal. This is the drain for the coastal plain which permitted the creation of the Waikiki Beach area. Passing Ala Wai Boat Harbor, the wealth of the few was much apparent, highlighted further by the sheer volume of pukka hotels, way out of our price range.
Hilton Lagoon is surrounded by an inland artificial beach. A sheltered area, ideal for weans, move along. Onwards to Waikiki Beach. For the first time since 
With Diamond Head and the Zoo becoming ever closer, it was time to call a halt. Kalakaua Avenue, which had run parallel to our walk, was now open to the waterfront. Here was Waikiki proper, resembling any European seaside resort with a promenade. 
There was a small gathering of people at a statue. We stood, waiting for our turn to take photos at the Duke Paoa Kahanamoku Statue. Who he? The Hawaiian Olympic champion and father of surfing. Some didn’t understand – turn. 
Marg is not a huge fan of cheesecake but was surprisingly keen to try. As we reached this source of big calories so the local taproom for Maui Brewing was spotted across the street. That was the rest of the afternoon taken care of. 
OMG, a 7.0% Fruited Hazy IPA was reminiscent of AleBrowar’s (Polska) El Fruto. Orange, mango and guava were reportedly present. Dry, bitter, a totally tropical taste, befitting of our locus. El Dorado, Citra Cryo and Mandarina hops were featured. 
There was only one Bier, it was too early to start a session, there are other places to visit. Heading home, northwards along Kalakaua Avenue, there were actually people walking on the side-walks, like they do in a proper city. This was a true – downtown – area with atmosphere, pedestrians, patrolling police cars. It was all happening here.
After sunset, we headed back along Kalakaua Avenue to 
808 Pale Ale 
A – dive bar – was how this was described. Located in a backlot off the main avenue, if 
There was more Bier, and why not? The Bier was great as was the atmosphere, wonderful service and two young ladies had just taken up the space on Marg’s right. One reminded me of another Julia, an F.P. From the 1980s. I sent Fiona, her sister, the photo to see if she spotted the uncanny resemblance, of course we are all older now. 
Brewery, brewery taproom, bar and restaurants visited today:
A visit to Pearl Harbor on my birthday was the plan from the outset. FYI, this – 
Cousin-Lisa, our driver for today, was parked outside already, we were to be the first pick-up. Cousin? We were all her family, good for tips. This meant we had to go round the houses to pick up the rest. 
The opperchancity to visit the USS Bowfin, an American submarine was considered. Spending another $40.00 and rushing the experience was dismissed. We did have a look at the museum, until it was time, we would return after the boat excursion. 
The narrative here cannot be what it was originally. There was an acceptance that the 
Prior to boarding the boat to the USS Arizona, a National Park ranger briefed us before we watched a short movie. Nothing here I didn’t know already except the answer to the question nobody else asks?
I got my photo as we approached the white concrete and steel construction. Our boatload had to wait our turn to disembark. 
The commemoration wall for the fallen has them listed, alphabetically, not by rank, religion, or colour. For Hector, one family name stood out.
The City Tour, the price of our ticket had to be justified. North of the coastal plane lies Punchbowl Crater and the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, the burial site honouring the veterans of four wars. Unable to stop and so alighting impossible, it was like hovering at zero feet. 
With a US election later this year, it was poignant when we passed Barack Obamas’s primary school. Driving along South King Street and Queen Street, we were retracing the route of the airport bus. We were about to establish the importance of the historic buildings we had passed two days ago. 
We were permitted to alight at Iolani Palace, once the home of Hawaii’s final monarchs. 
Some of the architecture was impressively bizarre. Hector’s birthday 
Combining coffee and it being Bier o’clock led us to the nearby Yard House which claims to have the largest selection of Bier on tap – in the World! So more than the hundred or so at 
This place was stowed, so many people drinking and eating late afternoon. As we were not eating, it was seats at the bar, no bad thing. One stool at the corner of the bar was available, another was fetched and squeezed in. An adjacent couple were finishing their bar meal.
Marg secured her coffee, Hector studied the Bier list. Lots of the bleeding obvious is always the problem, little in the way of exotic. The Yard House (Escondido CA) Hazy IPA at 6.9% was suitably hazy but tasted so bog standard. El Dorado and Cascade hops. 
We took our – usual spot – at the bar in – our local. 
It was a chap serving tonight, consequently, Marg’s Baileys shrank in measure, the Hector was not served his Rad Sauce in an iced glass. In time, I asked for one, and was duly charged for doing so. 
Hopefully, last night was the last we’ll see of rain in 
We took another route to Waikiki this afternoon, crossing the Ala Wai Canal on the same bridge as two days but avoiding the beach. After 
Thereafter, it was a case of trying to walk parallel to 
The US built M24 arrived in the last year of WW2, fast but under-armoured and under-gunned. Had US tank designers not heard of the T34? Needless to say, it didn’t last long on the front line, but did appear in Korea where it wasn’t up against much. The M24 has appeared in many a movie, standing in for the Sherman in The Battle of The Bulge. As for the Japanese light tank on display, the less said the better. 
As we walked along the Prom at Waikiki Beach it became clear that there was something brewing. Lei Day, people were flocking to Sans Souci State Recreational Park for a gathering. At any other time, we would have gone to investigate, but having started early, the scheduled events for – day of garlands – was drawing to a close. We were on a mission. 
It all started well, the flamingoes in their pond, quite scenic, but nothing we hadn’t seen in our mini zoo visits in both 
Things then went rapidly downhill.
Giraffes are Marg’s favourite animal, at least they couldn’t hide. The bird cage may have contained some exotic species, but get a grip, we’re in The Tropics, there were as many birds freeloading outwith the cages. In fact, I would challenge the owners to admit that the visiting wildlife outnumbered the captured. We paid money for this. Having walked many kilometres by this stage, our thirst need quenched. Plantation Cafe had closed already. Not since Calderpark Zoo (Glasgow, Scotland) c1986 have I seen such an array of tired exhibits. Calderpark closed soon after. I add the zoo map to highlight the many animals not seen today.
Hector’s sense of humour had been tested to the limits. It was approaching Bier o’clock and there are no breweries on this side of town. Growler Hawaii, located at the terminus of the Ala Wai Canal, was a ten minute walk, but not in the direction of home. Multi-taps reported, there should be something. There was something else. Two doors down, Hawaii Cat Cafe. 
Having worked at many a Bier Festival, I know one can only serve what is on. I do object to smart-ass bar staff who claim their Bier is the best when it’s clearly not in the style asked for. 
Honolulu Beerworks
We walked past an empty looking 
The exterior of 
Seventeen of the twenty taps were in use. Of these there was a choice of four Hazys. Make that three, 
Christopher was our waiter this evening. Boy was he good. As I posted our whereabouts on a certain social medium, so it was established that a fellow CAMRA acquaintance back home had been served by the same chap. 
Whilst there has been Bier on almost every day of this trip, some more than others, tonight must remain a standout. Nights where I have managed to get my feet under the table to this extent and sample a range of Bier from a board, have been few. Great Bier, food, service, and a t-shirt on offer was at a decent standard, albeit tie-dye. Hector was not quite last out. 
Back to Pearl Harbor, now that we know the lie of the land, no tour company necessary. The intention was to visit both USS Missouri and Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum. There was a slow start to the day, and food was required before we set off. 
Heading back to where it all began, we crossed the bridge from the hotel to Ala Moana Center. Finding our way in through the upper level car park was no longer an issue, getting one’s bearings on the way out, another matter.
Down in the basement market eatery, Marg decided The Sunrise Shack would provide brunch. Hector chose well, the Tropical Bowl being full of swallowable delights, and lots of them. 
A causeway connects Ford Island to the mainland, back on military territory, the civilian driver was not as fractious as the Navy Doris on the boat to USS Arizona. 
USS Missouri was commissioned n 1944. The last US battleship built, Missouri was mothballed in 1955 for some thirty years, before being recommissioned for a few years to take part in the Gulf War. Many rooms hence contained desktop computers and terminals from the 1980s. 
USS Missouri has massive gun batteries fore and aft. These must have caused damage when called into action. However, ‘planes and aircraft carriers win wars, not behemoths such as this battleship. 
Still, this was history. It was on the quarter deck of this mighty vessel that the Japanese signed the surrender notice officially bringing WW2 to a close. The US involvement in WW2 began at Pearl Harbor, that this ship has its resting place here and not San Diego makes the entire visit all the more poignant. 
Deep into the bowels of the ship as we could get, the twenty minute warning to – get aff – was announced over the tannoy. Up is out, Marg had other ideas. We became separated, she opened a door that the Hector daren’t. I had quite a following by the time we reached fresh air. Now to find Marg. 
Marg was hungry. It couldn’t be Curry, we’ve had Pizza and Asian, Chicken Wings, the safe fallback. Buffalo Wild Wings impressed in visit #1, so back we went. 
Our serving chap was useless, distracted. Marg had the salad. The potato wedges that had impressed so much on Sunday did not. The abundant wings were less so today, and we were paying way more being a peak time. Beware. 
With an early afternoon flight, there was no horribly early rise this morning. Checking out of Ala Moana hotel there was the knowledge that it would be a while before we stayed in comparable accommodation. This was plush and points had been earned towards future Ibis hotels in Europe. 
Unable to check-in online, we presented at the Alaska Airlines desk. Whilst our One World ticket was recognised in their system, our entitlement to two 23kg check-in bags each was not. As it happens we had one bag each. The wee girl wanted to charge us $70.00 to check in our bags. Hector was not having this, and asked for her supervisor. The song remained the same. Pay up or don’t fly, the latter not an option. The card reader didn’t work, try again. $80.00 was taken from my card. Hector knows how to haggle. I would later realise that I had been charged twice. 
In the departure hall, the Hector spent the wait establishing a complaint with Alaska Airlines head office. Something resembling food was had in one of the few outlets, nachos, not great. 
Alaska Airlines flight 876 departed on time at 13.59. A Boeing 737-Max, oh yeh, two engines across the Pacific Ocean. What could possibly go wrong?
No Bier today, nobody took the hint, but then the Hector hardly pitched it loudly. One glass of red, wine, does that count as – teetotal? My first bar job at Wilson’s Bar (Partick, Glasgow Scotland) had a barmaid who announced she was – teetotal – because for a week she drank sherry instead of vodka, – by the way.
Then there’s the lady who drank Waitemata every day and lived to one hundred. Or two hundred, in 
Bier was resisted despite more Monteith’s being available. I decided to leave the memory of my most southerly Bier intact.
We had arrived in two vehicles, Steve with the weans who had magically appeared as if a bell had been rung. Alison had driven Marg and I to Riverhead, after lunch she didn’t take the hint when I pointed out that Hallertau Brewery was incredibly close to our destination. Given the name, the Bier would have been traditional Deutsche Bier, presumably.
I sat in what had become – my spot – for the afternoon. In addition to catching up with some Bier-Traveller, I was still researching whether our visa for the 
Malaysian, cuisine, how does this differ from Chinese? It all looks the same, it all tastes the same. Surely, the wholesalers stock all the same sauces? Stir-fry, and chuck a sauce on top, hey presto! The avoidance of the – sweet red chilli sauce – is the Hector priority. Beef with BIG onions and capsicum was Hector’s main course, how ironic. The bowl of Hot &Sour Soup may have been the best ever encountered, if not just for the sheer volume. One glass of red wine and Marg did not play the – dessert – card.
Aiming to be at the airport for 14.00, there was a final brunch. With two flights ahead, three more meals were anticipated, we wouldn’t go hungry. 
There was a farewell photo taken at the pool. The Hector congratulates himself on not having been conned i
Flight QF 146 to Sydney, 16.05 – 17.50, a three hour flight, a two hour time difference. We were flying west which somehow does not go against the rules of our One World ticket where flying in one direction only is the requirement.
I watched the sunrise, the dawn of a new day for us, maybe it wasn’t.
Bus 29 to 
Mark & Jude’s domicile is situated to the east of Musselburgh and south of Portobello. They share a home with Alfie, the craziest dog ever encountered. Alfie doesn’t bark, he squeaks. I could tell Marg was going to become attached.
Bags dumped, Mark drove us into 
Jude returned from work, both she and Mark are destined to work for more years, so it goes. Marg got on a washing, it’s four days since 
Marg went out for her ritual walk-come-run. Despite the simplicity of the sea being downhill, she managed to end up at St Clair, another beach where Mark had planned to take us for brunch.
In keeping with the extremes of relief, up to Signal Hill, aka – The Lookout. A bit of Edinburgh Rock had made its way here.
From here we could see the entire 
Looking down on the fjord-like inlet from the rounded hilltops did feel a bit familiar, the Arrochar Alps, Loch Long, but on a much grander scale. 
Sea Lions and possibly Penguins were next on the agenda. It was quite a drive to Aramoana Beach, an area of deposition on the northern extremity of the fjord. Spits are aplenty on the 
The sea lions were found sporadically, minding their own business, the birds, another matter. Marg is always pointing out the bird-life wherever we go. The Hector sees landscapes not minutiae, however, today there was no escaping the ornithological world. 
Bier o’clock
Emerson’s Brewery
Emerson’s
And we did, in the interim, Jude was fetched, but not before Alfie got in on the act.
Today, Taiaroa Head which lies directly across the inlet from Aramoana, visited yesterday. Consequently, I had photos of our objective before setting off.
How high can one get? Lots of hills, steep slopes, I know that Mark takes great care behind the wheel, however there was an incident. Slowing down to let the car in front turn right off the main road, a smart ass decided to overtake both of us. Cue an oncoming car, disaster was imminent. Fortunately, it was Mark’s careful driving and anticipation which saved the day. The offending driver was able to cut in between us and the car going right. Three cars, we were stationary, the other three drivers and passengers could have been hospitalised. Mark deserved a medal, not one moment of acknowledgment, or possibly awareness that their skins had been saved. We passed the villain on our return, Mark reckoned he had been in a hurry to catch the ferry at Portobello. A reminder, Mark’s home is metres east of Musselburgh.
Penguins? There was another mention of Penguins, but by day they’re all at sea. Nevertheless, Marg went down towards the bay just in case. Why go down to come back up? Instead, Mark and Hector went up to Fort Taiaroa.
At Fort Taiaroa people pay to see albatross and/or attend seminars. We did birds yesterday. Of more interest to Hector was the concealed cannon known as the – Disappearing Gun. This elaborate mechanism protected the solitary piece of artillery from the elements. How long it would have lasted against an invading Japanese flotilla we shall never know.
The train station had ben seen previously in passing, quite a building. The Octagon is the focal point of the city. Our attempts at capturing decent photos in the dusk were thwarted by the ubiquitous populous which appear to be taking over both 
Armed with an array of SLRs, the Chinese got their photos but were oblivious to anyone else trying to secure the same. The culprits are therefore featured.
Good George Brewing Co. (Frankton, Hamilton, New Zealand) have five main outlets across the country plus an association with the Craft Beer and Kitchen restaurant chain. Fog City, a Hazy IPA at 5.8% proved to be a worthwhile choice. A good haze and lots of bubbles, but not too gassy, this had a big hop hit. Amarillo, Mosaic and Citra featured as well as the declared lactose. The body matched the abv, definitely worth having. If 
We were here to dine. Hector fancied a steak, it has been a while. Normally, steak is a meal had best at home. Rarely cooked as I like it, and as for the price of steak in a restaurant, really? Marg chose a modest Fish and Chips, Hector relayed how a steak should be cooked. Alarm!
A brewery from Wanaka (New Zealand) called – b.effect – produce Ridgeline, a Hazy IPA at 6.0%. Something had interrupted my usual photography and note-taking. With the Bier notes not saved, all I can say it was hazy, juicy, tropical, decent.
A fifteen minute walk saw us arrive at
There had to be an 
Yesterday featured a cliff top, today, a path along a cliff. Why does this trip keep involving high places? I had to stride out on my own in some parts, acrophobia, I cannot stand being near anyone when danger is sensed. 
The right foot is most certainly on the mend, not that 
As ever, Marg was on the hunt for wildlife, Still no Penguins though some splashes out to sea were reportedly them. Aye right. We all know Penguins live in the real Edinburgh, at the Zoo.
The appropriately named – West Coastin’ Hazy – at 5.5%, lived up to its description. A – Tropical Hazy IPA – this had the full haze and featured Mosaic, Galaxy and Wai-iti hops. Dry tasting, it definitely had – East Coast (USA) – notes. The most southerly, and furthest from home Bier, the Hector will ever drink.
Tonight, flight #10 of the trip, this time, back to 
more tropical. The evening flight meant we did not have to be at Momona Airport until after 17.00. 
As much a cafe as a restaurant, here was the b.effect – Ridgleline which I had two night ago at Albar.
Mark had mentioned the Duke of Wellington as being the must visit pub in
And so to the airport. Mark dropped us off, no £6.00 fee here a la Glasgow Airport. Hopefully we’ll see Mark and Jude in Scotland in the not too distant future. In the meantime, a BIG thank you.
One may be used to no frills when flying, but this is the national airline. My fifth and final NZ Airways flight, each time their plastic cup of water and dry nibble has been declined. Less than two hours to 
Alison was waiting once again in the arrival hall, and so back to Greenhithe. This was the first time in over over a month when I have walked into a room and recognised the bed. Home sweet home.
Another day, another flight: NZ5865 at 14.20 to 
On reaching a plain, a comparatively large settlement. Why live here at all?
Hotel 115, Cathedral Junction, this was the former tram depot, and the tourist tram still runs though it. Our first non Ibis, a decent hotel, and Cathedral Junction proved to be the ideal place to stay. 
We had half an hour to explore the surroundings, The other side of the depot gave way to New Regent Street, this was stepping back in time, quite a buzz.
Rebecca, Becks, was collecting us at 17.00, Another of Marg’s former charges, Becks was with us back in 2011, the year of the Christchurch Earthquake. Another catch-up.
After the customary addressing of the dog and sprog, We were duly fed and watered. We arrived with wine, but the Hector was not refusing Bier. Well, two out of three were not happening. I cannot believe people still buy the Bier with the same name as the virus which kept us prisoners for so long. An as yet untried Panhead was much appreciated.
Having been driven out of the city last night, I had some awareness of what greater 
Having acquired the brochure for the Tram and seen the price for the day ticket, this was dismissed as being a – no-no. Hector had a plan, let’s walk the route, a figure of eight through down-town 
There are swathes of 
A few watering holes were spotted on our tour. Riverside Market featured a stand for Canterbury Brewers Collective, and also Curry. I studied the Bier list, then introduced myself at the Curry stall. OK, I might force myself to have a Bier with a Curry later in the week.
If there’s a 
Food being delivered by pneumatic tube was fun for the weans. This was only available at the tables around the wall. For once, Marg and Hector were not window dressing.
It came with a timer as well as the filter arrangement. Not a fan of filter coffee, this was worse. 
18.30, our scheduled meet up with Brine, another Kiwi who worked with Marg. We reached 
An upstairs venue, an elevator was involved. I had checked the access out earlier, or so I thought. I had spotted the lane entrance, not the elaborate process of gaining entry thereafter. The heavy wooden door was manned, or – womanned. 
With Brine the designated driver, Nick and Hector were set to have a session. Four Biers on the board had potential, three were Fresh Hop
Mcleods Brewery (Waipu, New Zealand) has already appeared twice in these pages. Tonight the 802 #58, Hector had 802 #57 in 
Another release this week is Cone dip IPA at 6.0% (Duncans, Kapiti, New Zealand). NZIPA Fresh Hop was the given description. Gold, clear, not as intense as what had come before, the Riwaka hops still gave off a tropic fruitiness. A mellow, drink, one could happily have stayed with this if the previous two had not been on. Hector couldn’t find four to excite, surely?
Fresh Hop NZH-106 at 6.0% (Sawmill Brewery, Matakana, New Zealand) was classed as a Hazy IPA. The Kiwi brewers might be deliberately avoiding using – NEIPA – as a moniker. Again, released this week, yellow and only a slight haze, this had a huge hop hit. NZH-106 and Motueka hops, this was beautiful, quaffable.
I must thank Nick for making this the night it was. I may have heard enough about hockey on this trip already. More talk about Bier and Curry!
Bar, restaurant and cafes visited today:
Another day of walking, fortunately the right foot, had a rest in 
In Glasgow’s Botanic Gardens we have hot houses, here the opposite. I still cannot find a sink with a big enough sequence of draining to complement the one I took at 
It was warm enough for Marg to favour ice cream over coffee. The #1 choice venue was queued out the door. The same company have a branch on New Regent Street, another time.
Whilst enjoying the ice-cream I took in the array of Bier taps on the various food stands. If needs must, there could be a return.
Fresh Hop Waimea Hazy at 6.0% was listed as a NEIPA. It isn’t. The Waimea hops had been grown in Motueka, the brewers could have done with upping their usage. Gold, half hazy, remote from being a milkshake, this thin offering was piney too. This, if anything, this was a WCIPA.
Most tables were booked for – soon. A live band outside may have been encouraging the swarm. I’m sure the Bier list was better when I first popped in. I also thought this was where Dux was brewed, I still don’t know.
Basically a hamburger joint, Marg and I have not succumbed to eating them on this trip. Once again, a range of Craft Beer that bewilders. This was, in effect, a taproom for Beers by Bacon Bros, confused?
Marg had been super-indulgent today, Hector had his big afternoon/evening in 
It is the day of the 
Sarah Hughes was one of them! Pity her name was called before I could get the camera ready. But who knows, she may be in a shot somewhere.
Nevertheless, Marg got into cheering mode. She knows she could have gone out much earlier, but had chosen to await Hector surfacing. After last night? 
Time for Bier & Curry!
The Canterbury Brewers Collective was calling as was
Marg’s turn, she was keen to visit the Earthquake Museum. It was free to enter, so no complaints for Hector on a bus-man’s holiday. 
Marg sat and watched the whole video of interviews with people in the aftermath. Hector read about Montgomery Clift on his phone.
Running out of places, what could follow the Biers had here? Back to Little High Eatery. One of their outlets – El Fogon Grill – had something – in the style.
Hector was almost last out of Little High Eatery.
Now there was time to marvel at the suspended creatures.
The overhead bin did not take my bag, the thought of such a long flight with this at my feet…
A cement works dominated the view on approach, and again a few minutes later, and once more. The pilot was making a meal of it.
I had never met Claire before today, Marg had when she was over in 
Yes, Julia gets another mention. Julia, who we spent three nights with in 
The apartment was opposite Tahunanui Beach, a few minutes drive south of
Dinner, it had to be Curry. Julia has spoken oft about 
As luck would have it, The Free House is directly across the back from 
At my time of being served I asked:
Fresh April ’24 (Garage Project, Wellington, New Zealand) at 7.0%, had the full milkshake haze, the body was sound without being syrupy. 
Hector had his Bier with 
Two Thumb Brewing – was today’s objective, a brewery in Nelson. There was a full day’s itinerary before then.
Marg had returned from her morning run full of how wonderful the beach is. She had sneaked in a coffee at Raglan’s, a chap had engaged her. All was well, but not until Hector too had ben led along the beach.
The cathedral, the cathedral steps. A photo. No way was Hector climbing them, enough already.
A Brewery Tap, the Brewery is in Christchurch. There was something Hazy, and I liked the atmosphere, laters.
Before we knew it, two chaps had table-hopped us. One was particularly known to Julia, photos sent to 
Otto – on looking up this Bier, a picture of the Can popped up. The Bier is named after – Otto – the inflatable autopilot in Airplane!
Supa Hazy (Two Thumb Brewing Co., Christchurch, New Zealand) at 8.0%, an IIPA!
We arrived around 13.00. The brew-plant was at the rear of the site. There was a 
Before Bier, the sacred photo. We had passed some hop fields en route, but here was the opperchancity to caress live Motueka hops. The World must suffer.
Hazy IPA at 5.8%, the haze was there, the body was there, juicy too, but a slight sharpness on the palate was taking its toll. The hops were not for being identified, even after I went up to the girl pouring, who gave me the flyer.
With the car at our disposal, the must-do was the drive to the beach at Kaiteriterei which was some way beyond Riwaka. Motueka took a few minutes to drive through, Riwaka, blink and you’d miss it. I nearly blinked on the way back.
A comfortable walk along the sands, just as well the rain has abated. Plenty of photo opperchancities.
There was a pit-stop at the Waterfront Cafe. This shall be remembered for the family who, having finished their lunch sought Takeaway containers. A passing gull had other ideas. 
There had to be a Bier at source, in Riwaka. Hop Federation was located. Again, a dedicated Taproom for Takeaway only, lies adjacent to a hotel. Oh, look at that array of taps. East European chaps were manning the show. 
I found the address of the actual brewery, we headed along the road, another Takeaway only Taproom…but for 
Not only was the Hector determined to rub the noses today with Bier, there’s a Curry House in Motueka. It had to be done. 
McCashin’s Brewery is housed in the old cider house. 
New Zealand Airways were stingy on the flight down to 
Arriving at 
Fork & Brewer,
The company to my left was mixed, but there was one loud female who could probably be heard back in 
We did pass a Curry Cafe in the style I found in both 
Still raining, still a Friday night, I didn’t feel like straying far in the darkness. Was the Brian stopping? The Malthouse was chosen.
Behold, a big room with the bar on the right as one enters, high tables opposite the bar, and a room full of Kiwis to the back. They too were loud, but nobody was resonating. On purchasaing the drinks, I assumed Marg had headed back there. Nope, there she was, front of the house. 
802 #67 Unfiletered IPA (McLeod’s Brewery, New Zealand) at 6.8% was the aggressive follow-up to
Nick at 
I didn’t fancy any more Bier, and so back to the hotel. Get some writing done.
Brewery, bar and restaurant visited today:
Marg was out running along the harbour. Hector spent the late morning in his now claimed spot, a seat at the window with a power cable. Still the rain shows no sign of mercy, still the right foot hurts from a standing start, but maybe less so.
Indian Alley
Bottomless Coffee – it said on the menu my type of coffee. Doris made a fresh batch, she said I wasn’t leaving until I finished it. The place was empty, more or less, when we arrived. By the time we departed, every table was occupied, even the locals had had enough of the rain.
We had been strongly advised to visit Te Papa. Marg and Hector are not big on museums, this turned out to be a museum with – BIG – exhibits. Free to enter, even better.
Earthquakes and Volcanoes, what else do I need to know about these having taught all about them for thirty four years? There was a hut that simulated an earthquake. Having experienced a few in real life, no thanks. Who remembers the Glasgow Earthquake of 1979? OK, it was minor. Turkey was once hit by a major one the day after Marg and Hector left. 
Every sign in 
A WW2 battle fought with WW1 tactics. Churchill. I had seen nothing like the larger than life characters on display. The detail is magnificent. Toy soldiers these were not. It wasn’t toy soldiers who had to face the Turkish machine guns. Who gave the Turks machine guns?
Bier o’clock, and we weren’t straying far.
Panhead Custom Ales, whos Rat Rod had been enjoyed nights back at The Malt (Auckland), have an outlet on Tory Street. Having given this street a miss earlier it was time to embrace it.
It was time for Curry, at last.
The band came on, not too loud, some good sounds. The female vocalist and the horn player stood out. From our lack of vantage, it took time to establish just how many females were on stage. Our first live music in 
The sun was shining, it puts a different perspective on the day. Part of our Ibis welcome was a pair of Kit-Kats. I took one downstairs with me to what I had claimed as my spot: a window armchair with power sockets behind. More writing whilst Marg went out exploring/exercising. This may well be the first Nestlé product I have knowingly consumed in some forty years. The company is on my Blacklist. How old was the Kit-Kat? Maybe from the same batch I last ate from. It would soon have its revenge. 
Back on Lambton Quay, into an arcade – Cable Car Lane – behold, the funicular. NZ$11.00 return, no senior discount. After – The Blue Mountains, it looked a bit tame, and short. Ah, some cosmic lighting effects in the tunnels. It’s for the children. 
Another museum? Like Te Papa, free, my kind of museum. 
Some take the funicular up then walk down through the gardens. Having bought the return, no way, Pedro. We did the top of the park, more photos and suddenly the Kit-Kat was seeking payback. Wonderfully clean public facilities, just like what we don’t have back home. 
Mount Victoria – was on the list of places of interest. Note I have not added this to my list. OK, traditional 
Both my Hazys were aff. Hector wasn’t for staying. That did not go down well. The initial choice of seat was too close to the open door. The second was right under a heater. The third involved having to ask a chap if we could join him. I wonder what he thought when we left moments later. 
Having studied the array, the choice was Occasional (?) (Martinborough Brewery, South Wairapapa, Wellington, New Zealand), an APA, the pump clip gave away no more. 
I don’t think I was last out of Featherston, but would willingly have been so. Leuven had the tried and tested, so bog standard Belgian fayre. A Blond was not going to follow the owner which had just preceded it. Back to Sandman (Panhead), tried and tested. A come-down, back to reality, but this brewery was the favourite until ninety minutes previous. Marg had Lindemaan’s Kriek, again. Can the funds support such extravagances? 
With a not too early rise in the morning, and in the hope of an uninterrupted night’s sleep, I took the netbook down to my spot.
An Ibis with a choice from Panhead, and one I still hadn’t had. Rolling Stone – Nayslayer at 6.5%, a Pacific IPA, whatever that is. A NZ-IPA with Nectaron, Eclipse, Nelson Sauvin, the taste was more West Coast despite the gold, muddy haze. This was a good Bier.