Saturday – September 5th
Hector, Howard & Steve fly to München for three nights followed by three more in Berlin. Lord Clive of Crawley joins us tomorrow. It’s September, and it’s the first Chaps’ Trip abroad this year. 2020 may well be a year to regret, especially for those who lost friends and family. One more of – The Company – passed a few days ago, however, Alan’s demise was not COVID-19 related. R.I.P Alan Tindall.
We knew not what awaited us in Deutschland. Hector did well to escape from Polska to Berlin at the start of Lockdown. Covid rates are reportedly less here, but will there be queues everywhere, is booking necessary?
With Ryanair vouchers to spend, we flew to Memmingen rather than München directly. Touching down early meant we had grabbed an extra hour of – VDT. The heat hit us, none were expecting this, the forecast suggested cool and showers as at home.
Hotel Amba is the cheapest hotel near München Hauptbahnhof, or what’s left of the main station.
Having checked in it was straight to Indian Mango, the source of a unique interpretation of – Chettinad – and the starting point for all Hector’s trips to this city. Unsure of whether to have the Fisch Chettinad or the Lamm Chettinad, not for the first time, Hector ordered both. Howard and Steve had the Lamm, the Fisch had the edge today, sometimes it’s the other way.
Suitably replete, it was back on the S Bahn to Marienplatz. Karlsplatz-Stachus is closer to the Augustiner Stammhaus, however, there had to be a photo of the Rathaus, just to prove we were really here.
There was quite a throng sitting outside Augustiner, the inside was almost empty. Masks had to be worn, signing in on an App was required. The first Bier of any visit to München is usually on these premises, ah, but, Edelstoff (5.6%) was not on the menu. Why?
Drei mal Edelstoff – was not a problem. The noise the young group were making at the window seats was, we moved inside. The place was then eerily quiet, Saturday evenings in München were never like this.
*
Edelstoff, we now accept that it is sweeter than the Vollbier, somehow it still works. The temptation to just sit here for the rest of the night was overcome. I had to ask about the Oktoberfestbier. Although the Oktoberfest is cancelled, surely the Bier would be brewed? Bert led us to believe that it could be available on Monday.
There was a sort of agenda in Hector’s mind, we had to end up at the new Andechser am Dom, but not too early.
Steve disappeared momentarily, Howard and Hector took a table at the very back of the Hofbräuhaus, no chance of being served here. I spotted a group about to leave, they hadn’t paid, still we had the table and had to wait for Bert to deal with them before bringing – Drei Maß! – and collecting the Track&Trace sheet.
We were now in direct line of sight with the the three piece band. Reality dawned, this is the first live music any of us had seen, well since the last time, and for Hector that was Pendragon at Kinross.
Hofbräu Helles, or Original (5.1%), as it appears on the menu, a sheer delight. Ein Prosit!
Now we really know we are in München, except everything is different.
Alternate rows of benches were blocked off, however, there was nothing to stop you sitting beside others already in situ. I could observe no limit to one table. Perhaps given the numbers present, people would have spread themselves even more without the restricted seating? Has somebody been using an – algorithm? Anyway, it was great to be here, a sense of normality. Different, but normal.
There was just about time to squeeze in another before heading off to Andechs.
This was Howard and Steve’s first visit to the relocated Andechser am Dom, Hector was here last summer. Again the place was quiet, so no problem getting a table. Details provided, it was time to study the menu and play the usual game.
Es gibt Spezial Hell vom Faß Heute?
Nein, aber wir habn den Bergbock Hell.
That’ll do nicely!
One cannot beat a bit of Mountain Goat Hell.
We declared a moral victory, for years all they have offered is the standard Helles which is nowhere near as good as the alternatives. That was until Elke, the former manageress served us two years ago.
We were then told that Spezial Hell was available by arrangement. A Barrel at 18.00 tomorrow then? That appeared to work until the new boss, Brigitte, came over and told us that there was none left after days of great demand. You can’t make this up.
Brigitte was charming, even after I asked after Elke. Elke apparently was on the premises today, visiting? We arranged a Barrel of Spezial Hell for later in the year, we just need to get the mouths over to drink it.
Brigitte stood us a round of Schnapps. I don’t think Steve had his, he keeps disappearing.
A Big Bang of a start to this trip, tomorrow will be quieter, how shall it begin?
Sunday – September 6th
The disadvantages of staying at Hotel Amba became clear. The noise of the air extractor in the toilet must have woken the whole sixth floor. Doris across the way in the Hauptbahnhof started her frequent announcements at too early o’clock. At least the tram lines directly outside the hotel have been ripped up as part of the ongoing renovations around the train station.
Hector was first in for lunch at Indian Mango, Steve soon followed. Howard arrived as we were finishing, he was set on having a quiet afternoon to himself. Steve decided to hire an electric scooter, he too disappeared over the horizon. This gave Hector time to return to the hotel to sort photos start writing up these pages.
Just after 16.00, Steve suggested we meet up and get the – BBC – Bad Boys’ Club – underway. Augustiner Stammhaus, as ever, was the chosen place to start. With no sign of life outside, the heart sank. They had closed, early I assumed. Steve was ahead of me by a few minutes and had taken up a table around the corner at Augustiner Klosterwirt. The gentler Helles (5.2%) was the Bier to start. We awaited the arrival of Lord Clive who took his time getting in from the Flughafen. Howard joined us before the table had to be given up at 19.00, Edelstoff (5.6%) for all.
An off-duty band were booked to sit on our right. They had to sit at three tables – The rule of six.
Thereafter, it was back to the Hofbräuhaus where a table was found far left, adjacent to the garden. Due to the seating restrictions, we had to join a couple who were finishing their Schweinshaxe.
Tonight, Hector decided to turn the clock back and have the Dunkles (5.1%) whilst Howard had the Münchener Kindl Weizen (%.1%). A pleasant change for us both, however, these were topped and tailed by the Original (5.1%) Helles which still holds its own.
As the Bierhallle became even quieter, our serving Bert was quite chatty, always good to engage.
We were among the last to leave, more Bier was required. Doug, a member of the Real Ale Twats, had suggested Le Clou next to Viktualienmarkt. A small, noisy bar, this felt like a Covid trap. It was full. There was nothing else for it, go to the Irish Bar.
Killians and Ned Kellys have the same entrance, the latter had no customers. We sat in Killians and ordered Augustiner Helles (5.2%) until we decided it was time to depart. Not my first time here by any means, it is a good fallback when nothing else is open.
We had started late, so the small hours felt appropriate. The S Bahn stopped in the middle of the platform, despite actually being there, we missed the train. We walked to Hauptbahnhof in search of a Kebap. Nae luck, all closed. A sandwich in the station had to do.
Monday – September 7
Indian Mango opened today at 11.30, Hector and Clive were there for noon, Howard arrived a few minutes later. Indian Mango open on a Monday, new times. It was Clive’s turn to have the famous Fisch Chettinad, to find out what Hector and Howard had, here’s the link.
With time to spare before employing the – smart route – to Kloster Andechs, we walked back from Isartor to München Hauptbahnhof, or what’s left of it. Only today did I finally see what was once the main entrance.
Steve was waiting at the platform for the train to Tutzing, an hour later we were walking up the slope to the Kloster. There was a Track&Trace system in place unlike any other.
Approaching the Bräustüberl, I was asked for my – Ausweis. The British do not have identity cards. Before I had the opperchancity to establish if a driving licence was acceptable, – Passport – was mentioned. Fortunately, Clive had his, and only one per group was required.
The one way system to the Bier kiosk took us for a tour around the main seating area and the room off. Spezial Hell (5.8%) to start, just the half litre for Howard and Hector, Steve and Clive went for the litre.
We took an outside table, for a while, it was still warm enough. A group of nuns sat a couple of tables away. They had half litres of Helles (Vollbier 4.8%) and bottles for a Takeaway on the table. Only in Deutschland.
Moving indoors to a table we have occupied many times, I was in sight of the Dessert kiosk. Apfelstrudel tempted, alas, sold out.
Hector settled for cheesecake, washed down with a Weissbier Hell (5.5%). Andechs Weissbier, one of only three brands I still enjoy after all these years. With full on banana/vanilla, it made up for not having Vanillasoss with Apfelstrudel.
Whilst Howard had the Doppelbock Dunkel (7.1%), far too early for the rest of us, I received a request from back home – can you get me an Andechs polo shirt? No chance – was the reply. Howard has been trying for some ten years. Why they cannot get their souvenir shop organised here remains another mystery, akin to the lack of Spezial Hell at Andescher am Dom. Who conceived their business plan?
The return to the city via Tutzing is so much easier on the bladder than the S Bahn from Herrsching. Arriving back at Hauptbahnhof, it was suggested we go out to The Crowbar, a Craft Beer pub that has come on to the radar.
The U Bahn took us to Josephsplatz, a few bocks from The Crowbar in a residential part of the city, not quite as far out as Schwabing. A basement bar, we were made most welcome, once we adhered to the strict masks at all times except when seated.
Sadly, due to an event held in recent days, there was no Bier on tap. Still, we were here for the opperchancity of New World Hops, the Board may well have met our requirements.
Instead, it was bottles from Munich Brew Mafia which did the job nicely.
Jungle Trip (Munich Brew Mafia, München) 7.2%
NEIPA
Citra, Hallertau and Madarina Hops.
It had the hops, suitably tasty.
Wreckdiver (Munich Brew Mafia, München) 6.8%
Pacific NEIPA
Nelson Sauvin Hops.
More demanding on the palate, sharp and dry.
Our visit here was enjoyable despite the restrictions. A decent variety of rock music was played at a volume above which conversation could be held. We shall certainly return.
Back in the city centre, Augustiner Stammhaus felt like the obvious place to go. There was no sign of it ever having been open today, strange times. Steve went home, the remainder headed to Augustiner am Dom, the other downtown, brewery owned outlet. Approaching 22.00, it was a case of was the near empty premises still open? A table was secured, and on that table was the sign which made the day, the Oktoberfestbier was on! We had time for one only, at least we can go home and say we had it.
Klosterwirt was still open, it would have been rude not to, but being a franchise, no Oktoberfestbier. Despite the proximity rules, all remaining customers were at the high tables adjacent to the pouring area. Still, social distancing was observed. The Germans appear to know what hey are doing, and people are happy to comply. A text from Dr. Stan has suggested that we should stay away, nice to be nice, but he means we are safer where we are.
We actually replied – Nein danke – when it came to last orders. This time we knew the S Bahn would stop in the middle of the station, fool me once…
There had to be a Kebap, Clive was most determined. Our usual place on Schiller Strasse was closing. We passed what was left of Cafe Schiller, aka – The Sportsbar – en route, another block being redeveloped. We were directed to a Kebap Shop that would be open, it was, success. Give me, give me, give me, a Kebap after midnight.
The Brewery Taps, Bars and Restaurants visited:
Augustiner Stammhaus – Neuheuuserstarsse 27, 80331 München
Hofbräuhaus – Am Platzl, 80331 München
Andechser am Dom – Frauenplatz 7, 80331 München
Augustiner Klosterwirt – Augustinerstraße 1, 80331 München
Killians Irish Pub / Ned Kelly’s Australian Bar – Frauenplatz 11, 80331 München
Kloster Andechs – Bergstrasse 2, 82346 Andechs
The Crowbar – Agnesstraße 54, 80798 München
Augustiner am Dom – Frauenplatz 8, 80331 München
Indian Mango Restaurant – Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München